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Old 12-15-2012, 09:53 AM   #71866
Rob.G
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Batteries

Not long ago I posted here about the fancy new Ballistic Battery Lithium-Ion battery I put in my FZ1 and how I wanted one for my other bikes. My opinion on that has now changed.

These batteries have one major flaw -- temperature. Sure, other batteries are affected by it too, but My FZ1 has gotten progressively harder to start in cold weather since getting that battery. To the point that it wouldn't start at all last Thursday. I rode the DR650 instead, which fired right up. I've ordered a new regular-type battery for the FZ1 and will move the Ballistic to my little KLX250S. I figure the battery should have no trouble starting that motor, and I don't ride it in super cold weather anyway. Plus on that bike, the weight savings will be most worthwhile.

Now, part of the problem might be that I think the 8-cell unit is undersized for a 1000cc sportbike, but that's all that will fit in it. They list the 8-cell as being the right battery for the DR650 too, but there's room to fit the 12-cell in there, which is what I would do IF I were to get one for it. Likewise, they list the 4-cell for the KLX250S, but the 8-cell is still smaller than its stock battery, so I'd use the 8-cell in it anyway.

But what really ruined it for me was early last week when I left a traffic light and stalled the bike (new gloves, wasn't used to 'em yet)... normally just grab the clutch, hit the starter, and keep going. Nope. Wouldn't even turn over. I had to pull over and try several times before it'd fire. Screw that. I don't need that happening in traffic.

So save yourselves some trouble and stick with real batteries until battery technology improves some more.

Rob
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:08 AM   #71867
MADurstewitz
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Thanks MAD

Has that 10,000 miles all been with the 790?
Yes, it has. It runs great!

Did the motoman break in. I recommend it.
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:20 AM   #71868
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Not long ago I posted here about the fancy new Ballistic Battery Lithium-Ion battery I put in my FZ1 and how I wanted one for my other bikes. My opinion on that has now changed.Rob SNIP
Is the battery in question like the new Shorai Lithium-Iron (not Ion) batteries we hear so much about? The Shorai batts need to "warm up" from what I've read ... and actually come to life once other accessories are used. The battery actually gets stronger after some discharging. Weird.
Lithium-Ion uses a different technology to Lithium-Iron from what I understand ... but DON'T ask me to explain either right now. I do believe that
Lithium-Ion batts like to be maintained at 100% all the time. Not so much with Lithium-Iron.

I'm really surprised you DR charging system did not bring you batt back up to usable power just from running around. I've run stock batteries dead a couple times (too many accessories running with stock 55W headlight on). On both occasions just running 20 minutes with accessories OFF brought batt right back up and bike started perfectly.

Got to love Japanese electrics!

I am leaning towards the Japanese made Shorai. But I will wait a while yet ... maybe for the 2nd generation of this technology.
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:21 AM   #71869
badweatherbiker
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Kudos to all for helping me resolve most of my carb issues but I still have some minor hwy speed surging and an ever so slight miss on idle. My question is needles and clips and spacer related. I have the DJ needle in there now with the clip in the 2nd position from the top and an aluminum d spacer between the clip and where it rests the the slide.
I ordered the 6f19 from Derek and a plastic washer to give a try, should I use the aluminum d spacer with the 6f19 needle or just the little stock plastic round one and what position for the clip. should the washer be under the clip or above it? I am seeing so many here I am kinda worried I may have put it in the wrong way.
A pic would be golden!
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:53 AM   #71870
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Kudos to all for helping me resolve most of my carb issues but I still have some minor hwy speed surging and an ever so slight miss on idle.
Are you able to kill the idling engine by closing the fuel screw? How about by opening it?

If the surging on the highway continues after installing the 6F19 needle, we will need to determine precisely at what opening this occurs. In order to facilitate this, put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle opening with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks. If you do, I'm not responsible!
Quote:
I ordered the 6f19 from Derek and a plastic washer to give a try, should I use the aluminum d spacer with the 6f19 needle or just the little stock plastic round one and what position for the clip. should the washer be under the clip or above it?
Install the stock white plastic spacer under the clip of the 6F19 needle. Do not install the d-shaped aluminum washer.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:18 AM   #71871
NordieBoy
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Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
Is this the shock that you run? I've thought of just gettin a different new shock. My shock, (2009) I know is in need of a service. I wonder if instead of putting money into the service, just buy a better shock?
My shock is stock + 10w oil and 7.6kg/mm spring.

The Ricor shocks are very cheap at the moment.
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:44 AM   #71872
Motodeficient
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Not long ago I posted here about the fancy new Ballistic Battery Lithium-Ion battery I put in my FZ1 and how I wanted one for my other bikes. My opinion on that has now changed.

These batteries have one major flaw -- temperature. Sure, other batteries are affected by it too, but My FZ1 has gotten progressively harder to start in cold weather since getting that battery. To the point that it wouldn't start at all last Thursday. I rode the DR650 instead, which fired right up. I've ordered a new regular-type battery for the FZ1 and will move the Ballistic to my little KLX250S. I figure the battery should have no trouble starting that motor, and I don't ride it in super cold weather anyway. Plus on that bike, the weight savings will be most worthwhile.

Now, part of the problem might be that I think the 8-cell unit is undersized for a 1000cc sportbike, but that's all that will fit in it. They list the 8-cell as being the right battery for the DR650 too, but there's room to fit the 12-cell in there, which is what I would do IF I were to get one for it. Likewise, they list the 4-cell for the KLX250S, but the 8-cell is still smaller than its stock battery, so I'd use the 8-cell in it anyway.

But what really ruined it for me was early last week when I left a traffic light and stalled the bike (new gloves, wasn't used to 'em yet)... normally just grab the clutch, hit the starter, and keep going. Nope. Wouldn't even turn over. I had to pull over and try several times before it'd fire. Screw that. I don't need that happening in traffic.

So save yourselves some trouble and stick with real batteries until battery technology improves some more.

Rob
As mentioned, these batteries need to warm up with the ignition on for a few minutes when its cold. I have no problem with my Ballistic 8-cell in cold weather if I let it warm up for a few minutes before hitting the magic button.
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:45 AM   #71873
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodeficient View Post
As mentioned, these batteries need to warm up with the ignition on for a few minutes when its cold. I have no problem with my Ballistic 8-cell in cold weather if I let it warm up for a few minutes before hitting the magic button.
I tried that... wasn't working so well. I still think this battery is undersized for my FZ1; a 12-cell in the DR650 would be ideal and would probably be just fine warming up for a bit.

Rob
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:53 AM   #71874
opium89
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Let's Get It Started!

Well, the engine is back together. Added oil and a gallon of fuel to the tank. Cranked the starter and it reluctantly tried coming back to life with plenty of wheezing and backfiring. Now, this bike being from California it as all the emission control crap installed. I noticed that the roll-over valve only had the one hose from the carbon canister installed...the other normally goes to the tank breather. This being an IMS tank with no actual breather on it, I figured I would ignore it to start with and see what happens. My assumption of course being that this bike was running prior to the case being damage.

Based on the backfiring and the bike's apparent sour disposition, I decided to go ahead and remove all the emissions junk, capped the purge port on the carb, and also removed the tied-in-a-knot vacuum hose on the top of the carb and replaced it with a proper cap. The bike still wont start...actually it does crank and start very briefly and dies...crank it again and nothing, nada. Then, if I let it sit for 10-15 minutes I can repeat the process. Brief start - die- sit. However, no more backfiring.

So I need some advice...you think it's time I started to dig in to this carburetor? It has fuel, has plenty of spark...No vacuum leaks. It's sat for some time and I could certainly smell that rank old gasoline-turning-in-to-kerosene smell that carbs sitting for far too long emanate after awhile.
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:07 PM   #71875
badweatherbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Are you able to kill the idling engine by closing the fuel screw? How about by opening it?

If the surging on the highway continues after installing the 6F19 needle, we will need to determine precisely at what opening this occurs. In order to facilitate this, put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle opening with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks. If you do, I'm not responsible!Install the stock white plastic spacer under the clip of the 6F19 needle. Do not install the d-shaped aluminum washer.

Regards,

Derek
I will add that I have found an exhaust leak going into the muffler from the pipe, went back to stock pilot and running 150 main.
without the dspacer will the needlt ride flat through the tunnel or try to cock to the side?
I am assuming I should start with the clip in the 3rd position?
thx Derek!
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:11 PM   #71876
Mambo Dave
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Edit - skip it, i bent it back

This nut-locking tab inside the clutch basket - bend it back, or should it somehow slide?


Mambo Dave screwed with this post 12-15-2012 at 12:32 PM
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:47 PM   #71877
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
I will add that I have found an exhaust leak going into the muffler from the pipe, went back to stock pilot and running 150 main.
Fixing it is a good idea, but the exhaust leak at the muffler inlet won't really make any difference.

Once the 6F19 needle is installed, install a main jet that is known to be rich. Then keep reducing the size until there is a barely perceptible hint of a lean misbehavior during WOT operation. A main jet two to three sizes lager than this will be the most correct size you can arrive at without gas analysis on a brake dyno.
Quote:
without the dspacer will the needlt ride flat through the tunnel or try to cock to the side?
The needle will cock toward the downstream side as it should.
Quote:
I am assuming I should start with the clip in the 3rd position?
That should be fine. You should be tuning the clip position after the correct main jet has been arrived at anyhow.
Quote:
thx Derek!
You're welcome.
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Old 12-15-2012, 01:06 PM   #71878
opium89
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Just a guess, but you think maybe this is my problem? I'm pretty sure that jet was completely blocked off before I pulled the float cover off.



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Old 12-15-2012, 03:39 PM   #71879
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400,000km

Thought some might be interested in ninja97's latest update from the Australian DR650 thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by ninja97 View Post
Another milestone for the mighty DR. Clocked up 400,000 klm,s last week and the old girl is still going strong, not bad for an 05 model. She has had a few niggles along the way and quite a few new and used parts but hey i'm not complaining. The last rebuild at 360,000 was a biggie, it started jumping out of first gear so replaced all the driven gears, the barrel was worn out so a secondhand barrel and new piston and rings went on and splashed out on some original clutch plates and steel plates with new springs,i tried a EBC clutch kit but all it wanted to do is slip so was not impressed,originals lasted 170,000klm,s. Cam chain got replaced at 100,000 klm intervals and cylinder head and valves never touched apart from valve stem seals at about 300,000 klm,s It is a courier bike and gets ridden everyday in lovely Melbourne traffic rain hail or shine and thats in just one day Hot days cold days you name it,so it not an easy life but she still starts every time and still has the original starter motor. Fitted out with a few farkles like a IMS tank, pro tapper bars, staintune exhaust, b+b bashplate, had the suspension stiffed up with heavier springs and had to fit a tm40 because original carby decided not to play ball anymore. And it still has the original seat,it has been recovered because the stitching split but the foam is all stock, the only time it gets a bit painful is when it gets hot and you sweat or when the crutch gets wet from the rain. Best bike ever Suzuki
The highest mileage DR on the planet just keeps on keeping on

Cheers
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:41 PM   #71880
LexTalionis
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Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
Different subject but does anybody have any good ideas about getting the gasket off the cylinder for the cam chain tensioner? Gasket remover doesnt touch it.
Too late reading your post to help you, sorry. For others, I alternately soaked the OEM gasket in gasket remover, waited ten minutes, then used a flapper sandpaper wheel (80 grit comes to mind) with my Dremel. Took a few applications.

Worked quite well, no gouging, relatively quick, no stress; perfect cadence of work when combined with a beer at hand.

Lex
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