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Old 12-15-2012, 03:39 PM   #71896
bull600
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400,000km

Thought some might be interested in ninja97's latest update from the Australian DR650 thread

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Originally Posted by ninja97 View Post
Another milestone for the mighty DR. Clocked up 400,000 klm,s last week and the old girl is still going strong, not bad for an 05 model. She has had a few niggles along the way and quite a few new and used parts but hey i'm not complaining. The last rebuild at 360,000 was a biggie, it started jumping out of first gear so replaced all the driven gears, the barrel was worn out so a secondhand barrel and new piston and rings went on and splashed out on some original clutch plates and steel plates with new springs,i tried a EBC clutch kit but all it wanted to do is slip so was not impressed,originals lasted 170,000klm,s. Cam chain got replaced at 100,000 klm intervals and cylinder head and valves never touched apart from valve stem seals at about 300,000 klm,s It is a courier bike and gets ridden everyday in lovely Melbourne traffic rain hail or shine and thats in just one day Hot days cold days you name it,so it not an easy life but she still starts every time and still has the original starter motor. Fitted out with a few farkles like a IMS tank, pro tapper bars, staintune exhaust, b+b bashplate, had the suspension stiffed up with heavier springs and had to fit a tm40 because original carby decided not to play ball anymore. And it still has the original seat,it has been recovered because the stitching split but the foam is all stock, the only time it gets a bit painful is when it gets hot and you sweat or when the crutch gets wet from the rain. Best bike ever Suzuki
The highest mileage DR on the planet just keeps on keeping on

Cheers
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:41 PM   #71897
LexTalionis
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Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
Different subject but does anybody have any good ideas about getting the gasket off the cylinder for the cam chain tensioner? Gasket remover doesnt touch it.
Too late reading your post to help you, sorry. For others, I alternately soaked the OEM gasket in gasket remover, waited ten minutes, then used a flapper sandpaper wheel (80 grit comes to mind) with my Dremel. Took a few applications.

Worked quite well, no gouging, relatively quick, no stress; perfect cadence of work when combined with a beer at hand.

Lex
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:45 PM   #71898
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Originally Posted by dljocky View Post
I have my shock wound so tight, I'm afraid to tighten it much more, and the big dr still seems to have a lot of static/rider sag.
Maybe i should tighten it up some more?
I ride 98% rough asphalt in the local mountains, weigh 225lbs in street clothing. The OEM spring was adequate when tightened down to the max. Then I sold my KLR camper bike, needed the DR to start carrying camping gear; installed the heavier of the two springs offered by ProCycle, tightened it down a third, and am again content with the DR's suspension.

Lex
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Old 12-16-2012, 01:47 AM   #71899
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for those using the TM40 pumper carb: whats the reliability of this thing like? seems i keep tearing through slides, slide guides and emulsion tubes on the BST. starting to feel like this set is done after only about 10 000km and the set before that was only about 20 000km. i replace them another 2 times and ill have enough money to go for the TM40. so how many kms do people have on theirs and what problems have you had?
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:04 AM   #71900
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Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
for those using the TM40 pumper carb: whats the reliability of this thing like? seems i keep tearing through slides, slide guides and emulsion tubes on the BST. starting to feel like this set is done after only about 10 000km and the set before that was only about 20 000km. i replace them another 2 times and ill have enough money to go for the TM40. so how many kms do people have on theirs and what problems have you had?
Have over 18k miles (you can do the conversion math to kilometers) on my OEM carb, haven't opened it up since I adjusted the fueling at around 500 miles by installing a washer and backing out the A/F screw. No problems with my carb. I do run Techron or that other similar fuel additive whose name escapes me at the moment through it every half year or so. And my carb slide gets lots of action, relatively little constant throttle usage.

Lex
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Old 12-16-2012, 02:09 AM   #71901
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Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Have over 18k miles (you can do the conversion math to kilometers) on my OEM carb, haven't opened it up since I adjusted the fueling at around 500 miles by installing a washer and backing out the A/F screw. No problems with my carb. I do run Techron or that other similar fuel additive whose name escapes me at the moment through it every half year or so. And my carb slide gets lots of action, relatively little constant throttle usage.

Lex
yeah i had no problems like this when i was in aus, but ive been in SE Asia for the past 12 months or so now and thats where ive been wearing through the parts so quickly. i was thinking it might be something to do with fuel here, who knows what they put in it (some people still put mercury in the cosmetics). im going to be in this part of the world and central asia/ the middle east for probably the next 18 months so wondering if the TM40 has the same wear issues or i can alleviate some of my headaches by forking out for the new carb. i dont know anything about the TM40 or how it operates.
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Old 12-16-2012, 03:30 AM   #71902
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Question 2012 DR650 Suspension

Hi just about to get a new DR650 again and I am going to be upgrading the suspension on this one as the dive under breaking with gear was far too much.

I weigh about 190-195lbs (88kgs) without gear. And I am looking at getting a 7.5kg/mm rear eibach spring and a .60kg/mm front springs with gold valves front and rear. I am sure this question has been asked many times but if you have any idea of whether that would be about the right weight springs or not I would appreciate it.

I will be setting the bike up for ADV riding and commuting - but happy to set it up more suited to dirt than blacktop.

And does anyone know what it would cost to get this done at HOEY racing (Australia)

Cheers,
TJ
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:36 AM   #71903
Mambo Dave
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Speaking of suspension, I'd like to hear from those who have cut their fork springs to gain some stiffness.

I've got to imagine that since the extra range of the springs is being substituted for firmness, that it becomes a tiny bit harsher for a given outcome than would buying new springs that are just as long as the stock ones, but made thicker.

Anyway, I can't quite see how cutting my springs to save money would be such a bad idea since I'm not creating a Baha racing machine here. The last bike I bought springs for showed me that aftermarket springs were often shorter, anyway, than the originals.

Mambo Dave screwed with this post 12-16-2012 at 07:50 AM
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:37 AM   #71904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJWally View Post
Hi just about to get a new DR650 again and I am going to be upgrading the suspension on this one as the dive under breaking with gear was far too much.

I weigh about 190-195lbs (88kgs) without gear. And I am looking at getting a 7.5kg/mm rear eibach spring and a .60kg/mm front springs with gold valves front and rear. I am sure this question has been asked many times but if you have any idea of whether that would be about the right weight springs or not I would appreciate it.

I will be setting the bike up for ADV riding and commuting - but happy to set it up more suited to dirt than blacktop.

And does anyone know what it would cost to get this done at HOEY racing (Australia)

Cheers,
TJ
I am about 20 lbs heavier than you and have similar plans for riding. I went with .70 fork springs and 8.1 rear spring, so I think you're about spot on. My suspension parts should be here next week so I have no experience with them yet.
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:57 AM   #71905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Speaking of suspension, I'd like to hear from those who have cut their fork springs to gain some stiffness.

I've got to imagine that since the extra range of the springs is being substituted for firmness, that it becomes a tiny bit harsher for a given outcome than would buying new springs that are just as long as the stock ones, but made thicker.

Anyway, I can't quite see how cutting my springs to save money would be such a bad idea since I'm not creating a Baha racing machine here. The last bike I bought springs for showed me that aftermarket springs were often shorter, anyway, than the originals.
Why not just add preload, by using longer spacers? Keep your springs intact. It's easier to revert back to stock or to sell.
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:05 AM   #71906
Mambo Dave
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Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Why not just add preload, by using longer spacers? Keep your springs intact. It's easier to revert back to stock or to sell.
Selling isn't a worry - most americans are frickin heavier than I am, so they'll need the extra stiffness.

I've read up on suspension enough to believe that preload is preload - it's either set right or it isn't. While it may change the spring rate a fraction of a percentage, it really isn't supposed to, and it doesn't make up for spring rate changes.

Adjusting preload with the end-goal of a quick and dirty rate change is sort of ... well, it just doesn't seem right.
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:56 AM   #71907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Selling isn't a worry - most americans are frickin heavier than I am, so they'll need the extra stiffness.

I've read up on suspension enough to believe that preload is preload - it's either set right or it isn't. While it may change the spring rate a fraction of a percentage, it really isn't supposed to, and it doesn't make up for spring rate changes.

Adjusting preload with the end-goal of a quick and dirty rate change is sort of ... well, it just doesn't seem right.
On progressive-rate springs, like the DR's stockers, a change in preload changes the spring rate.
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:58 AM   #71908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
Have over 18k miles (you can do the conversion math to kilometers) on my OEM carb, haven't opened it up since I adjusted the fueling at around 500 miles by installing a washer and backing out the A/F screw.
As shimming the needle clip preloads the slide spring beyond standard, it results in lowering the slide rather than raising the needle (except when the slide is against the stops). I would not shim the needle clip unless the goal is actually to lower the slide for a given intersection of throttle angle and rpm. Note that the additional preload from shimming the needle will also make the slide come off the stop at a later point in terms of rpm and throttle position (i.e. more velocity will be required to get it to come up off of the stop).

The most proper way to refer to the idle mixture screw (aka pilot screw) on a BST carb is as a fuel screw, as it does not adjust air and fuel simultaneously. There are things called air screws on carbs where you adjust the idle mixture by changing the quantity of air being bled into the pilot circuit. The reason this is important is that a fuel screw makes the idle mixture richer by screwing out and leaner by screwing in, whereas an air screw makes the idle mixture richer by screwing in, and leaner by screwing out. Fuel screws are usually on the downstream side of the slide, and air screws are usually on the upstream side (although I have seen occasional exceptions).

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:05 AM   #71909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
seems i keep tearing through slides, slide guides and emulsion tubes on the BST. starting to feel like this set is done after only about 10 000km and the set before that was only about 20 000km
Have you been increasing the lift hole area, or leaving it stock? I assume this is a single lift hole model? Make sure you are preventing the ingress of dirt through the carb vent (the 1/2" {~13mm) steel elbow on the back of the carb, just under the diaphragm).

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:15 AM   #71910
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Another chain question

Hi guys,

Quick question. I'm on the road in southern Argentina and can't replace my chain for a few days. I adjust at the tightest spot, of which there shouldn't be one after only about 10k kms. When I'm on the loaded bike the chain is quite loose. Better loose than tight, I know, but does anyone have any suggestions on other courses of adjustment? When should the damn thing be adjusted? Loaded? Loaded, with my fat ass on it as well? Unloaded? On side stand? Upright under its own weight? Rear wheel off the ground?

Will a sticky point chain ever "unstuck"? It's at 4+2 on the adjuster cam now.

It's all cleaned up, lubed and awaiting your collective wisdom.

Cheers!
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