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Old 12-17-2012, 03:07 AM   #71911
greer
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Location: Glasgow, Kentucky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Well, bike's still not running and I believe the starter is now a gone'r. Symptoms: Fully charged battery, key on, ignition switch engaged, starter will barely turn if at all and the battery goes to complete drainage while the ignition switch is engaged.

I did drop voltage tests on all the wiring from the battery in the starter circuit including the starter itself...all seems to check out. Removed the starter this evening and took it apart, only to find some very clean and unworn looking starter guts. Put it back together and tried bench testing it with a battery and a couple of wires. All it will do is arc and spark, no spinage. I mean, there's no much to it, and it all appears to be in order. This inmate is baffled.
Are you sure that's a good battery?

Sarah
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Old 12-17-2012, 05:21 AM   #71912
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Well, bike's still not running and I believe the starter is now a gone'r. Symptoms: Fully charged battery, key on, ignition switch engaged, starter will barely turn if at all and the battery goes to complete drainage while the ignition switch is engaged.

I did drop voltage tests on all the wiring from the battery in the starter circuit including the starter itself...all seems to check out. Removed the starter this evening and took it apart, only to find some very clean and unworn looking starter guts. Put it back together and tried bench testing it with a battery and a couple of wires. All it will do is arc and spark, no spinage. I mean, there's no much to it, and it all appears to be in order. This inmate is baffled.
i had a starter do something similar, hooked it up to a car battery that i knew was good and still no spin. i tried turning the splined shaft by hand to make sure it wasnt seized and she went crazy. seems like it just needed a little directional encouragement. ive heard of other styles of electric motors (maybe just AC) that have a directional circuit that gets them initially spinning then centrifugally disengages letting the main brushes take over. without the start in direction all the carbon brushes are fighting each other and you get a balanced rotational force. no problems ever since here.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:52 AM   #71913
Lil' Steve
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Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
I put .48's in my KLX250S and love them. I thought .42's were the stock ones. Now I need more rear spring too. 'Course I need to do both ends of my DR650, so it's next in line.

Rob


I believe the stockers on the 06/07's are .38's. They were way soft. I'm borderline at needing a new rear spring but keeping it stock for now. I also got their Ultra-Max Valving front and rear and it made it a very capable suspension.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:53 AM   #71914
opium89
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Location: Hutto, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
i had a starter do something similar, hooked it up to a car battery that i knew was good and still no spin. i tried turning the splined shaft by hand to make sure it wasnt seized and she went crazy. seems like it just needed a little directional encouragement. ive heard of other styles of electric motors (maybe just AC) that have a directional circuit that gets them initially spinning then centrifugally disengages letting the main brushes take over. without the start in direction all the carbon brushes are fighting each other and you get a balanced rotational force. no problems ever since here.
I'm fairly certain that what's happened is the insulation on the windings has deteriorated. I will verify this evening with an ohm meter. Never seen it before, but I suppose there is a first time for everything. FYI: The shaft on mine spins freely. It was very clean inside when I took it apart. No rust, no carbon, and even had some grease left on the shaft ends.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:54 AM   #71915
opium89
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Originally Posted by greer View Post
Are you sure that's a good battery?

Sarah
Known good unit.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:10 AM   #71916
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
I believe the stockers on the 06/07's are .38's. They were way soft. I'm borderline at needing a new rear spring but keeping it stock for now. I also got their Ultra-Max Valving front and rear and it made it a very capable suspension.
Play with the preload and sag settings. A friend helped me set my sag at Death Valley earlier this year and it made a world of difference. I actually had to soften it a little because it was TOO stiff when we were done. Now it's as good as it's gonna get til I send it to Cogent (along with my DR rear shock, since he does both now).

I want Gold valves for my KLX forks as well as the DR's. Any idea if they're available on the KLX?

Rob
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:43 AM   #71917
Lil' Steve
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Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Play with the preload and sag settings. A friend helped me set my sag at Death Valley earlier this year and it made a world of difference. I actually had to soften it a little because it was TOO stiff when we were done. Now it's as good as it's gonna get til I send it to Cogent (along with my DR rear shock, since he does both now).

I want Gold valves for my KLX forks as well as the DR's. Any idea if they're available on the KLX?

Rob

For the KLX.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:45 AM   #71918
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
...

I want Gold valves for my KLX forks as well as the DR's. Any idea if they're available on the KLX?

Rob
http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/1/...i/KLX250S/2010
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:25 AM   #71919
motolab
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Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
You may recall I sent you an email months ago congratulating you on your work for your buddy restoring that odd Ruskie (if I recall the origin of the machine) motorcycle - making one running bike out of three shipped back from overseas in boxes.
That's the Minsk. We've made some progress on that just recently, and I expect that Mullet5 will make a report over there soon.
Quote:
Regarding me and my DR, I'm an old dog and content if my fueling is 85+% correct; interestingly, that's the same figure I use for personal satisfaction when balancing my wheel/tire assemble using the axle supported by the backs of two kitchen chairs. Compared to the miserably lean condition of the carburation and the subsequent miserable low-speed riding experience when I took possession of the bike new, the current condition is vastly improved and did not cost me a cent as I already had a suitable washer left over from installing a DJ kit in my ZX-10. And I get ~50mpg.
I'm glad that it's working out for you!
Quote:
I'm wondering: a month or more ago you and ProCycle got into a discussion about the benefits of your expertise regarding carb adjustments. Proposals were made, ProCycle offered to pay the cost of your service in return for the before/after results, and a poster offered his bike as the test mule. Did anything ever come of that?
It didn't, because the motorcycle in question didn't have the set of mods that ProCycle thought (and I agree) would be the most common, and therefore the most universally applicable.
Quote:
If you and ProCycle are interested, I'll donate my bike for a week, you're about 20 miles up the peninsula from me.
Thanks so much for the offer!
Quote:
My bike is totally stock except for the adjustments noted and removal of the snorkel.
I don't think that will work, as the bike should have the airbox mod, a GSX-R or aftermarket muffler, and, to start with, a DJ/Pro Cycle jet kit installed.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:46 AM   #71920
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
because the motorcycle in question didn't have the set of mods that ProCycle thought (and I agree) would be the most common, and therefore the most universally applicable.
If LexTalionis is amenable to cutting the top of his airbox and upgrading the exhaust I'm still on board for this.

I'd much rather see the test bike have a DG or FMF muffler. My own testing says the GSXR can doesn't breathe quite as well as an aftermarket performance muffler.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:00 PM   #71921
NordieBoy
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Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
So you're not a fan of the latest SFF (Single Function Forks) MX forks as fitted to the latest KXs and RMZs?
Or to the Paioli forks on 1993 Gilera Nordwests...

Spring one side, damping in t'other.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:18 PM   #71922
Cobain
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Front sprocket retainer

Instead of buying the smaller triangular front sprocket retainer to fit with 14t sprockets, can't you just cut the stock one down? Does anyone get what I'm saying here.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:29 PM   #71923
DockingPilot
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Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
Instead of buying the smaller triangular front sprocket retainer to fit with 14t sprockets, can't you just cut the stock one down? Does anyone get what I'm saying here.
Yea, your cheap Its frickin $12. Why hack up the stock one. Not even worth the time involved.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:47 PM   #71924
Cobain
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It is to me. $12 saves is $12 earned. just wanted to make sure theres nothing special about the aftermarket overpriced one.
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:09 PM   #71925
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
It is to me. $12 saves is $12 earned. just wanted to make sure theres nothing special about the aftermarket overpriced one.
Many figured out this very easy, two minute mod to the stock retainer long before an aftermarket piece was ever offered. Not a big deal.

Take off stock retainer, grind down less than a 1/8" of the outer edge using a grinding wheel. Done. Two minutes tops.
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