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Old 12-16-2012, 10:18 PM   #71911
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Wow! what a great idea! Not sure where I'd get the measuring apparatuses, but a damned fine idea!
Measuring apparatus.
See post #106
http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/top.../page__st__90?
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:21 PM   #71912
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Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
I was under the impression (possibly mistakenly) that fork braces cut out some of the side to side flex when cornering, too.
Controlling flex during cornering is probably the main purpose of a fork brace. The other benefits are secondary.
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:21 PM   #71913
blackcap
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Slide carbs will always have a loss in bottom end to lower midrange of the rpm range at the larger throttle openings because the air velocity (and therefore the quality of the metering) is proportional to the engine rpm and inversely proportional to the throttle opening. Slide carbs require you to learn throttle control. When tuned properly (I say "tuned properly" because it is possible to mask many problems with an overly rich mixture), you cannot open the throttle to WOT or near WOT suddenly from low rpm without significant hesitation (it’s even possible to stall the engine if you don’t back off). A properly tuned accelerator pump will help this, but is not likely to completely mitigate the problem. On the other hand, CV carbs allow you to open the throttle all the way from low rpm and will pull smoothly when tuned correctly, because the height of the slide automatically attempts to maintain a consistent velocity.

The ability to open the throttle to WOT from low rpm without hesitation with a CV carb does come with a price, and that is in a comparative lack of responsiveness in those areas where the combination of throttle position and rpm does not cause too much of a loss in in intake velocity with the slide carb.

Another area where the CV carb has an advantage is in the ability to change the fuel delivery curve based on rpm via the needle shape. On a slide carb, you can add or subtract fuel via tuning a circuit responsible for a given throttle position, but you cannot change the shape of the delivery curve in terms of rpm. For instance, if you had a lean and a rich spot at different rpm at a certain throttle position, you could fix the lean spot while making the rich spot even richer, or you could fix the rich spot while making the lean spot even leaner. You could not fix both. Unfortunately, these types of scenarios happen quite frequently.

The throttle pull on the TM40 is also quite a bit heavier than on the BST40.


Regards,


Derek
i knew i could count on you for more information than i could imagine i needed. its good to have people out there that understand this stuff and can give good reliable advice. the slide has the single stock hole, im after reliability, not performance here. the elbow has a unifilter attached to it but ill check the hose and connections, may even need a new filter. so is there any advantage in terms of the reliability of the slide and guide in going for the TM40 or am i better to persist with the stock carb?
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:26 PM   #71914
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Thumb cutting fork springs

Here is a good tool to help figure spring rates when cutting springs:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Sus...aseForkSprings

I cut 4" off of the close coil end of my springs but I also lowered the front end 4" for my street tracker.
Coil bind is a concern when cutting a large percentage of the length so figure carefully.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:38 PM   #71915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Fork braces don't just assist the axle to keep the sliders working up and down together, they also reduce fork twist generated under brakes that you get with a single disc. The DR forks are faily flexxy and this is a particularly noticable improvement that you get with stiffer USDs. When thay flex, they also bind a bit, so their bump absorption is not as good when loaded as a stronger fork is.
Good points!
A fork brace can reduce "stiction" and bike can feel more planted mid corner over bumps, rider feedback is better. Less stiction means better overall feel, better control, more confidence.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:00 AM   #71916
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Originally Posted by SprintST View Post
Hi guys,
Quick question. I'm on the road in southern Argentina and can't replace my chain for a few days. I adjust at the tightest spot, of which there shouldn't be one after only about 10k kms. When I'm on the loaded bike the chain is quite loose. Better loose than tight, I know, but does anyone have any suggestions on other courses of adjustment? When should the damn thing be adjusted? Loaded? Loaded, with my fat ass on it as well? Unloaded? On side stand? Upright under its own weight? Rear wheel off the ground?

Will a sticky point chain ever "unstuck"? It's at 4+2 on the adjuster cam now.

It's all cleaned up, lubed and awaiting your collective wisdom.

Cheers!
A nice place to be!
You're doing the right thing keeping your chain adjusted on the loose side.
Follow advice given on adjustment. Keep cam adjusters the same.
QUESTION:
Are you having to adjust chain frequently? Is it getting loose every day or three? If YES to either question ... then you probably need a NEW chain ASAP. How many kms. on current chain? Brand? O ring? X ring? No ring?

Have you taken a look at your sprockets? If not ... do so now! Are you carrying any spare sprockets?
Worn sprockets eat chains quickly. You need to buy spare front sprockets and change them about every 10K to 12K kms. Really adds LIFE to you chain.

Rear sprockets wear more slowly, last longer but just as important and will fuck you if you ignore it. Cheap chains will probably only last 15K kms or so. A high quality X ring chain can go 40K kms. Same goes with good sprockets. Worth the money.

I have no idea what sort of quality you can get in Argentina ... but I would recommend stock Suzuki sprockets and a DID VX2 (VM-2) X ring chain ... if you can afford one. If Suzuki too expensive there ... try for JT, Sunstar or Renthal sprockets ... or AFAM if available. All decent but NONE as good as OEM Suzuki ones.

Kinks in your chain:
Just another indicator your chain may be on the way out. Use WD40 (or Kerosene or Gas oil) to try to free up the kink. It may or may not free up.
No big deal ... just another indicator chain is most likely nearing its end ... impossible to say how long without seeing and feeling it. Can you pull the chain off the rear sprocket more than a 1/4 inch at the 3 'oclock position? If so ... Could be worn out.

!Suerte y que le via bien!
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:31 AM   #71917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
i knew i could count on you for more information than i could imagine i needed. its good to have people out there that understand this stuff and can give good reliable advice. the slide has the single stock hole, im after reliability, not performance here. the elbow has a unifilter attached to it but ill check the hose and connections, may even need a new filter. so is there any advantage in terms of the reliability of the slide and guide in going for the TM40 or am i better to persist with the stock carb?
The TM will definitely wear less than a BST as the slide does not rise and fall with every intake event, but when the body finally does wear, it's shot, as there is no replaceable guide.

The FCR is better in this regard, as it has a roller slide and therefore very little wear, and the parts that do wear are replaceable. The roller slide also allows the throttle pull to be a lot lighter. The FCR is therefore definitely a better carb than the TM, but the FCR is harder to tune, the reason being that all openings besides idle and WOT are controlled by needle shape and clip position. This may sound like an advantage, until you realize that for all intents an purposes, the needle must simultaneously have the correct diameters at heights that control 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 openings (if the "dots are connected" then the areas between these openings should be acceptably close). On the other hand, the TM needle only has to have the correct diameters at heights that control 1/2 and 3/4 openings, as 1/16 and 1/8 openings can be controlled by the pilot jet size and 1/4 opening can be controlled by the needle jet size.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:41 AM   #71918
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Derek!

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
As shimming the needle clip preloads the slide spring beyond standard, it results in lowering the slide rather than raising the needle (except when the slide is against the stops). I would not shim the needle clip unless the goal is actually to lower the slide for a given intersection of throttle angle and rpm. Note that the additional preload from shimming the needle will also make the slide come off the stop at a later point in terms of rpm and throttle position (i.e. more velocity will be required to get it to come up off of the stop).

The most proper way to refer to the idle mixture screw (aka pilot screw) on a BST carb is as a fuel screw, as it does not adjust air and fuel simultaneously. There are things called air screws on carbs where you adjust the idle mixture by changing the quantity of air being bled into the pilot circuit. The reason this is important is that a fuel screw makes the idle mixture richer by screwing out and leaner by screwing in, whereas an air screw makes the idle mixture richer by screwing in, and leaner by screwing out. Fuel screws are usually on the downstream side of the slide, and air screws are usually on the upstream side (although I have seen occasional exceptions).

Regards,

Derek
Ahhh... Derek! I love you, man, even though we've never met. You may recall I sent you an email months ago congratulating you on your work for your buddy restoring that odd Ruskie (if I recall the origin of the machine) motorcycle - making one running bike out of three shipped back from overseas in boxes. And indeed, as I typed out "A/F" I did hesitate, trying to recall your admonition of over a year ago to me on this very usage. But I couldn't dredge up the memory, so you had to correct me once again!

I've read every one of your posts, trying to retain some glimmer of the vast knowledge you have regarding fueling, and I've archived your posts about what to look for regarding the wearing of internal carb parts; and, you're in my Rolodex, especially since you're located so close to me. Alas, a lot of your wisdom goes over my head. As do your most recent comments addressing my alterations to my DR - though, some of my thick-headedness may be the result of too much after-game celebration: the Niners kicked butt on the Patriots earlier today.

Regarding me and my DR, I'm an old dog and content if my fueling is 85+% correct; interestingly, that's the same figure I use for personal satisfaction when balancing my wheel/tire assemble using the axle supported by the backs of two kitchen chairs. Compared to the miserably lean condition of the carburation and the subsequent miserable low-speed riding experience when I took possession of the bike new, the current condition is vastly improved and did not cost me a cent as I already had a suitable washer left over from installing a DJ kit in my ZX-10. And I get ~50mpg.

I'm wondering: a month or more ago you and ProCycle got into a discussion about the benefits of your expertise regarding carb adjustments. Proposals were made, ProCycle offered to pay the cost of your service in return for the before/after results, and a poster offered his bike as the test mule. Did anything ever come of that? If you and ProCycle are interested, I'll donate my bike for a week, you're about 20 miles up the peninsula from me. My bike is totally stock except for the adjustments noted and removal of the snorkel.

Lex
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LexTalionis screwed with this post 12-17-2012 at 01:02 AM
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:59 AM   #71919
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Slide carbs will always have a loss in bottom end to lower midrange of the rpm range at the larger throttle openings because the air velocity (and therefore the quality of the metering) is proportional to the engine rpm and inversely proportional to the throttle opening.

Regards,

Derek
I was just jolted back four decades to a men's room in an engineering building on the University of Minnesota campus.

As I was holding my own, I gaze at the wall, and thereupon some wag had scrawled in permanent marker:
"The angle of the dangle is proportional to the heat in the meat, and inversely proportional to the mass of the ass."

Engineers!

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Old 12-17-2012, 03:07 AM   #71920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Well, bike's still not running and I believe the starter is now a gone'r. Symptoms: Fully charged battery, key on, ignition switch engaged, starter will barely turn if at all and the battery goes to complete drainage while the ignition switch is engaged.

I did drop voltage tests on all the wiring from the battery in the starter circuit including the starter itself...all seems to check out. Removed the starter this evening and took it apart, only to find some very clean and unworn looking starter guts. Put it back together and tried bench testing it with a battery and a couple of wires. All it will do is arc and spark, no spinage. I mean, there's no much to it, and it all appears to be in order. This inmate is baffled.
Are you sure that's a good battery?

Sarah
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Old 12-17-2012, 05:21 AM   #71921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Well, bike's still not running and I believe the starter is now a gone'r. Symptoms: Fully charged battery, key on, ignition switch engaged, starter will barely turn if at all and the battery goes to complete drainage while the ignition switch is engaged.

I did drop voltage tests on all the wiring from the battery in the starter circuit including the starter itself...all seems to check out. Removed the starter this evening and took it apart, only to find some very clean and unworn looking starter guts. Put it back together and tried bench testing it with a battery and a couple of wires. All it will do is arc and spark, no spinage. I mean, there's no much to it, and it all appears to be in order. This inmate is baffled.
i had a starter do something similar, hooked it up to a car battery that i knew was good and still no spin. i tried turning the splined shaft by hand to make sure it wasnt seized and she went crazy. seems like it just needed a little directional encouragement. ive heard of other styles of electric motors (maybe just AC) that have a directional circuit that gets them initially spinning then centrifugally disengages letting the main brushes take over. without the start in direction all the carbon brushes are fighting each other and you get a balanced rotational force. no problems ever since here.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:52 AM   #71922
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Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
I put .48's in my KLX250S and love them. I thought .42's were the stock ones. Now I need more rear spring too. 'Course I need to do both ends of my DR650, so it's next in line.

Rob


I believe the stockers on the 06/07's are .38's. They were way soft. I'm borderline at needing a new rear spring but keeping it stock for now. I also got their Ultra-Max Valving front and rear and it made it a very capable suspension.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:53 AM   #71923
opium89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
i had a starter do something similar, hooked it up to a car battery that i knew was good and still no spin. i tried turning the splined shaft by hand to make sure it wasnt seized and she went crazy. seems like it just needed a little directional encouragement. ive heard of other styles of electric motors (maybe just AC) that have a directional circuit that gets them initially spinning then centrifugally disengages letting the main brushes take over. without the start in direction all the carbon brushes are fighting each other and you get a balanced rotational force. no problems ever since here.
I'm fairly certain that what's happened is the insulation on the windings has deteriorated. I will verify this evening with an ohm meter. Never seen it before, but I suppose there is a first time for everything. FYI: The shaft on mine spins freely. It was very clean inside when I took it apart. No rust, no carbon, and even had some grease left on the shaft ends.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:54 AM   #71924
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Are you sure that's a good battery?

Sarah
Known good unit.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:10 AM   #71925
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
I believe the stockers on the 06/07's are .38's. They were way soft. I'm borderline at needing a new rear spring but keeping it stock for now. I also got their Ultra-Max Valving front and rear and it made it a very capable suspension.
Play with the preload and sag settings. A friend helped me set my sag at Death Valley earlier this year and it made a world of difference. I actually had to soften it a little because it was TOO stiff when we were done. Now it's as good as it's gonna get til I send it to Cogent (along with my DR rear shock, since he does both now).

I want Gold valves for my KLX forks as well as the DR's. Any idea if they're available on the KLX?

Rob
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