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Old 12-16-2012, 11:41 PM   #71926
LexTalionis
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Derek!

Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
As shimming the needle clip preloads the slide spring beyond standard, it results in lowering the slide rather than raising the needle (except when the slide is against the stops). I would not shim the needle clip unless the goal is actually to lower the slide for a given intersection of throttle angle and rpm. Note that the additional preload from shimming the needle will also make the slide come off the stop at a later point in terms of rpm and throttle position (i.e. more velocity will be required to get it to come up off of the stop).

The most proper way to refer to the idle mixture screw (aka pilot screw) on a BST carb is as a fuel screw, as it does not adjust air and fuel simultaneously. There are things called air screws on carbs where you adjust the idle mixture by changing the quantity of air being bled into the pilot circuit. The reason this is important is that a fuel screw makes the idle mixture richer by screwing out and leaner by screwing in, whereas an air screw makes the idle mixture richer by screwing in, and leaner by screwing out. Fuel screws are usually on the downstream side of the slide, and air screws are usually on the upstream side (although I have seen occasional exceptions).

Regards,

Derek
Ahhh... Derek! I love you, man, even though we've never met. You may recall I sent you an email months ago congratulating you on your work for your buddy restoring that odd Ruskie (if I recall the origin of the machine) motorcycle - making one running bike out of three shipped back from overseas in boxes. And indeed, as I typed out "A/F" I did hesitate, trying to recall your admonition of over a year ago to me on this very usage. But I couldn't dredge up the memory, so you had to correct me once again!

I've read every one of your posts, trying to retain some glimmer of the vast knowledge you have regarding fueling, and I've archived your posts about what to look for regarding the wearing of internal carb parts; and, you're in my Rolodex, especially since you're located so close to me. Alas, a lot of your wisdom goes over my head. As do your most recent comments addressing my alterations to my DR - though, some of my thick-headedness may be the result of too much after-game celebration: the Niners kicked butt on the Patriots earlier today.

Regarding me and my DR, I'm an old dog and content if my fueling is 85+% correct; interestingly, that's the same figure I use for personal satisfaction when balancing my wheel/tire assemble using the axle supported by the backs of two kitchen chairs. Compared to the miserably lean condition of the carburation and the subsequent miserable low-speed riding experience when I took possession of the bike new, the current condition is vastly improved and did not cost me a cent as I already had a suitable washer left over from installing a DJ kit in my ZX-10. And I get ~50mpg.

I'm wondering: a month or more ago you and ProCycle got into a discussion about the benefits of your expertise regarding carb adjustments. Proposals were made, ProCycle offered to pay the cost of your service in return for the before/after results, and a poster offered his bike as the test mule. Did anything ever come of that? If you and ProCycle are interested, I'll donate my bike for a week, you're about 20 miles up the peninsula from me. My bike is totally stock except for the adjustments noted and removal of the snorkel.

Lex
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LexTalionis screwed with this post 12-17-2012 at 12:02 AM
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:59 PM   #71927
LexTalionis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Slide carbs will always have a loss in bottom end to lower midrange of the rpm range at the larger throttle openings because the air velocity (and therefore the quality of the metering) is proportional to the engine rpm and inversely proportional to the throttle opening.

Regards,

Derek
I was just jolted back four decades to a men's room in an engineering building on the University of Minnesota campus.

As I was holding my own, I gaze at the wall, and thereupon some wag had scrawled in permanent marker:
"The angle of the dangle is proportional to the heat in the meat, and inversely proportional to the mass of the ass."

Engineers!

Lex
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Old 12-17-2012, 02:07 AM   #71928
greer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Well, bike's still not running and I believe the starter is now a gone'r. Symptoms: Fully charged battery, key on, ignition switch engaged, starter will barely turn if at all and the battery goes to complete drainage while the ignition switch is engaged.

I did drop voltage tests on all the wiring from the battery in the starter circuit including the starter itself...all seems to check out. Removed the starter this evening and took it apart, only to find some very clean and unworn looking starter guts. Put it back together and tried bench testing it with a battery and a couple of wires. All it will do is arc and spark, no spinage. I mean, there's no much to it, and it all appears to be in order. This inmate is baffled.
Are you sure that's a good battery?

Sarah
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:21 AM   #71929
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
Well, bike's still not running and I believe the starter is now a gone'r. Symptoms: Fully charged battery, key on, ignition switch engaged, starter will barely turn if at all and the battery goes to complete drainage while the ignition switch is engaged.

I did drop voltage tests on all the wiring from the battery in the starter circuit including the starter itself...all seems to check out. Removed the starter this evening and took it apart, only to find some very clean and unworn looking starter guts. Put it back together and tried bench testing it with a battery and a couple of wires. All it will do is arc and spark, no spinage. I mean, there's no much to it, and it all appears to be in order. This inmate is baffled.
i had a starter do something similar, hooked it up to a car battery that i knew was good and still no spin. i tried turning the splined shaft by hand to make sure it wasnt seized and she went crazy. seems like it just needed a little directional encouragement. ive heard of other styles of electric motors (maybe just AC) that have a directional circuit that gets them initially spinning then centrifugally disengages letting the main brushes take over. without the start in direction all the carbon brushes are fighting each other and you get a balanced rotational force. no problems ever since here.
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:52 AM   #71930
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
I put .48's in my KLX250S and love them. I thought .42's were the stock ones. Now I need more rear spring too. 'Course I need to do both ends of my DR650, so it's next in line.

Rob


I believe the stockers on the 06/07's are .38's. They were way soft. I'm borderline at needing a new rear spring but keeping it stock for now. I also got their Ultra-Max Valving front and rear and it made it a very capable suspension.
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:53 AM   #71931
opium89
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Location: Hutto, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
i had a starter do something similar, hooked it up to a car battery that i knew was good and still no spin. i tried turning the splined shaft by hand to make sure it wasnt seized and she went crazy. seems like it just needed a little directional encouragement. ive heard of other styles of electric motors (maybe just AC) that have a directional circuit that gets them initially spinning then centrifugally disengages letting the main brushes take over. without the start in direction all the carbon brushes are fighting each other and you get a balanced rotational force. no problems ever since here.
I'm fairly certain that what's happened is the insulation on the windings has deteriorated. I will verify this evening with an ohm meter. Never seen it before, but I suppose there is a first time for everything. FYI: The shaft on mine spins freely. It was very clean inside when I took it apart. No rust, no carbon, and even had some grease left on the shaft ends.
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:54 AM   #71932
opium89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
Are you sure that's a good battery?

Sarah
Known good unit.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:10 AM   #71933
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
I believe the stockers on the 06/07's are .38's. They were way soft. I'm borderline at needing a new rear spring but keeping it stock for now. I also got their Ultra-Max Valving front and rear and it made it a very capable suspension.
Play with the preload and sag settings. A friend helped me set my sag at Death Valley earlier this year and it made a world of difference. I actually had to soften it a little because it was TOO stiff when we were done. Now it's as good as it's gonna get til I send it to Cogent (along with my DR rear shock, since he does both now).

I want Gold valves for my KLX forks as well as the DR's. Any idea if they're available on the KLX?

Rob
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:43 AM   #71934
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Play with the preload and sag settings. A friend helped me set my sag at Death Valley earlier this year and it made a world of difference. I actually had to soften it a little because it was TOO stiff when we were done. Now it's as good as it's gonna get til I send it to Cogent (along with my DR rear shock, since he does both now).

I want Gold valves for my KLX forks as well as the DR's. Any idea if they're available on the KLX?

Rob

For the KLX.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:45 AM   #71935
acesandeights
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Location: So. Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
...

I want Gold valves for my KLX forks as well as the DR's. Any idea if they're available on the KLX?

Rob
http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/1/...i/KLX250S/2010
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:25 AM   #71936
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexTalionis View Post
You may recall I sent you an email months ago congratulating you on your work for your buddy restoring that odd Ruskie (if I recall the origin of the machine) motorcycle - making one running bike out of three shipped back from overseas in boxes.
That's the Minsk. We've made some progress on that just recently, and I expect that Mullet5 will make a report over there soon.
Quote:
Regarding me and my DR, I'm an old dog and content if my fueling is 85+% correct; interestingly, that's the same figure I use for personal satisfaction when balancing my wheel/tire assemble using the axle supported by the backs of two kitchen chairs. Compared to the miserably lean condition of the carburation and the subsequent miserable low-speed riding experience when I took possession of the bike new, the current condition is vastly improved and did not cost me a cent as I already had a suitable washer left over from installing a DJ kit in my ZX-10. And I get ~50mpg.
I'm glad that it's working out for you!
Quote:
I'm wondering: a month or more ago you and ProCycle got into a discussion about the benefits of your expertise regarding carb adjustments. Proposals were made, ProCycle offered to pay the cost of your service in return for the before/after results, and a poster offered his bike as the test mule. Did anything ever come of that?
It didn't, because the motorcycle in question didn't have the set of mods that ProCycle thought (and I agree) would be the most common, and therefore the most universally applicable.
Quote:
If you and ProCycle are interested, I'll donate my bike for a week, you're about 20 miles up the peninsula from me.
Thanks so much for the offer!
Quote:
My bike is totally stock except for the adjustments noted and removal of the snorkel.
I don't think that will work, as the bike should have the airbox mod, a GSX-R or aftermarket muffler, and, to start with, a DJ/Pro Cycle jet kit installed.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:46 AM   #71937
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
because the motorcycle in question didn't have the set of mods that ProCycle thought (and I agree) would be the most common, and therefore the most universally applicable.
If LexTalionis is amenable to cutting the top of his airbox and upgrading the exhaust I'm still on board for this.

I'd much rather see the test bike have a DG or FMF muffler. My own testing says the GSXR can doesn't breathe quite as well as an aftermarket performance muffler.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:00 AM   #71938
NordieBoy
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Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
So you're not a fan of the latest SFF (Single Function Forks) MX forks as fitted to the latest KXs and RMZs?
Or to the Paioli forks on 1993 Gilera Nordwests...

Spring one side, damping in t'other.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:18 AM   #71939
Cobain
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Front sprocket retainer

Instead of buying the smaller triangular front sprocket retainer to fit with 14t sprockets, can't you just cut the stock one down? Does anyone get what I'm saying here.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:29 AM   #71940
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobain View Post
Instead of buying the smaller triangular front sprocket retainer to fit with 14t sprockets, can't you just cut the stock one down? Does anyone get what I'm saying here.
Yea, your cheap Its frickin $12. Why hack up the stock one. Not even worth the time involved.
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