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Old 12-18-2012, 09:02 AM   #71971
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
thanks Jeff,

While your on the forum, I was curious if you ever bought Jays (jaminglobal) former motor which he blew up but was reconditioned just prior to his misfortune??

It would be good to know if this motor got back up and running and I remember reading you were going to buy it?? Not sure if you did though.

thanks
Yup, I took Jay's old motor and built the first 780 2 years ago which is still in my main bike. It's never been apart since the original build, still runs very strong and doesn't use any oil.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:09 AM   #71972
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I'm thinking of raising the handlebars through handlebars alone, not risers.

Anyone happen to know how much higher the CR high bar style would ride over the stock modern DR650 bars? I've measured based on specs I've seen, but it looks like they wouldn't be enough of a rise to justify those over a higher design if I wanted to avoid risers.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:15 AM   #71973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I think you guys are missing a point: an engine is nothing more than an air pump.

How much air per pulse really has nothing to do with HP numbers; only dB.

Also, on a side note. When designing or selecting an air filter they recommend a filter that flows 2 times the air the engine requires.
Oh I get it. I was trying to explain that HP doesn't have all that much to do with how the exhaust is restricted.
The point is that a bunch of small pulses can slip through a restriction easier than one big pulse.
And of course a big pulse takes more "processing" inside the muffler to get the required 80dB sound level.

This applies to intake through the airbox too which is why the DR responds so well to opening up the airbox.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:18 AM   #71974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I'm thinking of raising the handlebars through handlebars alone, not risers.

Anyone happen to know how much higher the CR high bar style would ride over the stock modern DR650 bars? I've measured based on specs I've seen, but it looks like they wouldn't be enough of a rise to justify those over a higher design if I wanted to avoid risers.
CR high bars will be about 1/2" to 3/4" taller than stock DR bars. Not much but enough to feel the difference.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:23 AM   #71975
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Originally Posted by procycle View Post
CR high bars will be about 1/2" to 3/4" taller than stock DR bars. Not much but enough to feel the difference.
Thank you, I'll probably go higher with some other bar bend then.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:23 AM   #71976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I'm thinking of raising the handlebars through handlebars alone, not risers.

Anyone happen to know how much higher the CR high bar style would ride over the stock modern DR650 bars? I've measured based on specs I've seen, but it looks like they wouldn't be enough of a rise to justify those over a higher design if I wanted to avoid risers.
Check here:

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Ha...r-Measurements
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:56 AM   #71977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I'm thinking of raising the handlebars through handlebars alone, not risers.

Anyone happen to know how much higher the CR high bar style would ride over the stock modern DR650 bars? I've measured based on specs I've seen, but it looks like they wouldn't be enough of a rise to justify those over a higher design if I wanted to avoid risers.

Edited: Look into ATV bends. I thought the ATV bends were really narrow but I was wrong. They look to have the most rise.

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Old 12-18-2012, 10:02 AM   #71978
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Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Nicely done. I just put that same front fender on in my change over from blue to all white. Same Gen II Wolfman set up, too.

Thanks! I've noticed the polisport fender is a lot more aerodynamic than the original. It should allow a lot more air to get to the oil cooler, too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Looks amazing! So what headlight are you running on it? It almost looks like you took the light off a KLX250.
Close... It's a Kawasaki KX450r (2009) headlamp. It looks a lot better than the stock 90's style dirtbike fairing.

It was a fairly straightforward mod. Just had to relocate the indicator lamps and turn signals, reverse the front turn signal brackets, and make a simple bracket out of some 1" aluminum angle stock. A handful of bushing/bolts/washers puts it all together.

http://imgur.com/wRrZY
http://imgur.com/p5XT2
http://imgur.com/s4kzp
http://imgur.com/iU1wT
http://imgur.com/FrJaz

The KX450R headlamp/fairing is a bit smaller than the KLX one, but still allows for a lot of spare room behind the shroud for the wiring harness and any other cabling.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:14 AM   #71979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by LucasLeader View Post
Edited: Look into ATV bends. I thought the ATV bends were really narrow but I was wrong. They look to have the most rise.

Thanks guys - an ATV bend was what I was looking at last week. That site's listing of specs all together is pretty cool for the handlebars, but I've been downloading PDF's too. I had one picked out that I think was about 155mm high, but can't remember who made it now. Some ATV bars wouldn't work well due to the angles the wrists would be at, so I'm trying to be careful about that.

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Old 12-18-2012, 10:31 AM   #71980
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I use the Protaper ATV high bars, have on 3 bikes, a great dual sport bar.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:46 AM   #71981
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Originally Posted by AeroEngineer View Post
It took a few months, but I finally got my ugly stock '06 DR to look less like a giant banana :

What can you tell us about your headlight and cowl? Does not look stock ...
I like it! EDIT~ sorry, just read your above post! Thanks ... very nice looking upgrade to the DR650!

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Old 12-18-2012, 11:12 AM   #71982
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
The KLR will be much more like the 1150GS. If all you're doing is commuting with some light dirt and gravel roads, I would recommend the KLR over the DR. The KLR is going to be a much better commuting/highway machine as the wind protection is noticeably better. If you're just doing dirt roads and fire roads, the DR doesn't exactly walk away from the KLR. The guy I used to ride with was on a KLR for a couple years before upgrading to a Tiger 800, and I was never really able to get away from him when I was on the DR. When the trails got tighter and more technical, I had the advantage, but I would gladly have traded bikes as soon as we got back on the pavement.
I would not really equate the KLR to the R1150GS. Really Apples & Oranges. Think Suzuki Samurai vs. Land Rover.

As I said above, a stock KLR is a better commuter/cargo carrier/two up bike than a stock DR650 ... but the DR is ultimately SMOOTHER than a KLR.

With a few mods to the DR650 you can add good wind protection, better seat, heated grips, lowered pegs and on and on. This brings the DR pretty close to the KLR for commuter/fire road duty. Performance wise you are correct ... pretty close once both have been opened up a bit ...

I prefer my DR650 over a KLR riding high speed highway at speeds around 75 mph. With a properly adjusted/loobed and aligned chain, good cush drive rubbers and bark busters (reduces vibes to hands) the DR is the smoother of the two, in my experience of riding them back to back. Done this with both the pre & post '08 KLR's.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:20 AM   #71983
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I switched bikes with a friend at an Adventure Ride. He was on a 2003 KLR650 that had been farkled to make it a better trail bike. I was on my equally farlked DR650. It was an easy trail, but an optional "Hero" section. There were a few rocky climbs and some slippery stuff. I couldn't wait to trade back. He said , as we switched back, "I gotta get one of these".

On the road, not a big difference for a one day event. Maybe if the road was 80% of my riding, it would be OK, but I'm 80% trails so the DR is way better for my application.
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Old 12-18-2012, 11:29 AM   #71984
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Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I just want to add some to the muffler debate.

I think you guys are missing a point: an engine is nothing more than an air pump. The more air you can get in it the more fuel you can add the more HP you get. Simple right?

While everyone is correct that a 650cc pulse of exhaust is harder to quiet then a 250cc pulse- you are missing the most important part of engine dynamics= airflow.

Doing the rough math:

A DR650 with a CFM efficiency of .7 (basic figure for carb 4 cycle engine) flows 56.1 CFM
A GSXR1000 with efficiency of .9 (basic fuel injection 4 cycle engine) flows 190 CFM!

That is about 3.5 times as much air goes through the GSXR as the DR (at max RPM). Even with two mufflers the GSXR mufflers were DESIGNED to flow more air per muffler then the DR engine flows.

How much air per pulse really has nothing to do with HP numbers; only dB.

Also, on a side note. When designing or selecting an air filter they recommend a filter that flows 2 times the air the engine requires.
Yep. I played with CFM type numbers to see if I was restricting my 350 by putting a 250 pipe on. Turned out the WR250F at peak torque was flowing the same as my TT350 at peak torque.
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:34 PM   #71985
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I'm thinking of raising the handlebars through handlebars alone, not risers.

Anyone happen to know how much higher the CR high bar style would ride over the stock modern DR650 bars? I've measured based on specs I've seen, but it looks like they wouldn't be enough of a rise to justify those over a higher design if I wanted to avoid risers.
I'm using Pro Taper Atv-mid SE bars with stock cables.
I flipped the throttle so the cable come out the bottom and rerouted the clutch cable. They are very comfortable and combined with Pro Cycle lower pegs awesome when standing up.
http://www.protaper.com/products/handlebars/se

I've tried the ATV highs but they have much pullback/sweep (see line E) than i like and my wrists are bent from a natural position and hurt after a bit. I had a KLR before and liked the bars/riding on those and wanted to recreate that riding. The ATV mids are a match for the KLR bars. Then after that I wanted less knee bend like the KLR and that was done by dropping the foot pegs down.

The CR HI bar is considered by many as the gold standard in comfort so look at the pullback on that bar. I've used it on my XR400 and loved it for dirtbike riding. I had risers http://pitposse.com/ourabiunbarr.html on there too as i like taller bars for standing comfort .

The reason the ATV mid pullback works (even though it's more than CR Hi) work me is they are wider and thus get my wrist in a nice natural position. I think i read that human wrists (hand center-line ie holding onto to a bar) are naturally 10 degrees.

Look down at your hands in a relaxed position and then hold your grips and see what the wrists are doing. If your hand is moved too much left or right of that natural relaxed position than your wrists will hurt after a bit of riding. Everyone is different of course. See if you can find a shop that stocks alot of Protapers and hold them out. You can't take #s from one mfg and compare to another however as they are all different.

If you do find an ideal comfort bar there is nothing wrong with using risers. Like i said on my XR it was CR HI and then i went up with risers.

http://www.protaper.com/products/handlebars/se
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