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Old 12-19-2012, 08:27 AM   #72031
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Unless you used way, way too much oil there's no way any significant amount of oil would get into the top of the carb just from oiling the secondary filter.
im just looking at using engine oil for an application like this. finding air filter oil can be difficult and is kinda uneconomical to buy a can/bottle to just relube a tiny filter when on the move constantly in non western countries. so the engine oil that flows a little too freely for my liking is the only other alternative i can think of right now. other option might be to cut a few stockings into suitable sized sections and lube them up, store them somewhere and change them out as they get filthy, same as im running intake air filters at the moment. i know, kind of a special case but this is life at the moment.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:09 AM   #72032
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
Derek, pulled the top off the carb and you were right. compleatly coated in dust. ive got a unifilter installed on the hose that goes to the top of the carb but it looks like a few hundred kms of the talcum powder that makes up the logging road surfaces in borneo just went straight through the unifilter and into the carb. ill be sending you an email regarding replacement parts, but the other side of the story now is how do i stop this from happening again? does anyone run anything other than the unifilter on their carb vent? as far as im concerned its useless for anything other than stopping sand.
The UNI breather filter is the best thing going and should do a fine job on the carb breather. What color is the dust you found in the top of the carb?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:13 AM   #72033
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
If I remember the BST bible post correctly, your diaphragm and that whole top area are going to get dirty no matter what. Something about them having access to good ol unfiltered air by design. I could be misremembering though.
On the KTM, with its stock "filter" cartridge, you are essentially correct, as it consists of nothing more than a few layers of metal screen. The UNI breather filter fixes the problem.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:17 AM   #72034
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
the bible states: thou shalst doist this: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114485

which i did but the top of my carb still looked like this

Yikes!

D.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:18 AM   #72035
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
Derek, what are the risks of letting small amounts of oil into the top of the carbie?
Don't worry about it.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:21 AM   #72036
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
im just looking at using engine oil for an application like this. finding air filter oil can be difficult and is kinda uneconomical to buy a can/bottle to just relube a tiny filter.
You don't have oil for your main air filter? Or maybe you are using motor oil on that as well. The problem with motor oil as opposed to proper air filter oil is it tends to drain out the lowest point of the filter so the filter has to be serviced more often.
In any case, I'm sure you could use motor oil on the secondary filter without getting any oil significant amount of oil into the top of the carb.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:23 AM   #72037
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
im just looking at using engine oil for an application like this. finding air filter oil can be difficult and is kinda uneconomical to buy a can/bottle to just relube a tiny filter when on the move constantly in non western countries. so the engine oil that flows a little too freely for my liking is the only other alternative i can think of right now. other option might be to cut a few stockings into suitable sized sections and lube them up, store them somewhere and change them out as they get filthy, same as im running intake air filters at the moment. i know, kind of a special case but this is life at the moment.
K&N has these little guys:



Not counting the spout, they measure about 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" X 1".

Regards,

Derek
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:47 AM   #72038
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
did the 16 tooth make off road riding in 1st cumbersome?
I would rather go with the 525 but the $$ of the 520 works for me right now, the kit comes with cush rubbers too and mine are worn.
"Penny Wise, Pound Foolish" ??? 'Ya heard of that one?
Sure, a 520 kit is cheaper than a 525. If you're into your DR for a few weekends a year ... then all good, go for it.

But if you plan to cover some miles over years then the 525 is better value.
Now ... if you use your DR650 for doing serious off road then the 520 is maybe a better way to go. Lower gearing options with the 520. But make no mistake, a 525 set last longer.

As time goes by more and more sprocket choices are becoming available in the 525 size. Check with Jesse at Keintech or Pro Cycle. Both have some options last I checked.

19K miles is really good ... if you're talking about a stock chain/sprockets.
My stock chain only went to 14K miles. You must be doing something right!

I would shop around ... but buy the DID 525 X ring VX or VM2 chain.
I like Suzuki OEM sprockets best ... but if you want lower gearing then you'll have to use other brands like JT, PBI, Sunstar or what ever (be careful of "whatever" ).

I have done over 24K miles on the 525 VM2 DID X Ring chain. I switch
front sprockets about every 8K miles. Allows chain long long life.
The hunky DID X ring chains are nearly maintenance free ... and never need adjustment.

Go with cheap, off brand chains and sprockets at your peril.

New Cush Drive rubbers are a good idea ... at least every 20K miles.
ALSO ... Check out your rubber swing arm chain slider while you're at it, especially near main swing arm bolt. If worn ... change it for a new one.

Have fun!
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:59 AM   #72039
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Finally, you can switch to 14-45. This is if things get steep and really hairy. The DR will climb like a goat and engine-brake like crazy down a hill, and you will be able to crawl very well.

This sounds good to me, and I might run this setup on my Alaska trip next year. Id prolly run 15-45 95% of the time, with 16-45 for the few freeway backtrack stints I have planned and 14-45 for colorado.
Great summation of the gearing issue! The beauty is a rider can carry all three of the front sprockets with him and change them roadside as required.
(I had forgotten Jesse offered a 45T rear sprocket in 525 size!)
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Old 12-19-2012, 11:12 AM   #72040
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
You don't have oil for your main air filter? Or maybe you are using motor oil on that as well. The problem with motor oil as opposed to proper air filter oil is it tends to drain out the lowest point of the filter so the filter has to be serviced more often.
In any case, I'm sure you could use motor oil on the secondary filter without getting any oil significant amount of oil into the top of the carb.
I use a small amount of Foam Filter oil on that little filter (sticky and does not run down like motor oil) ... and I also wrap a scrap piece of
"Filter Skin" around it. This way you can see when its dirty ... and either pull off Filter Skin and put on another piece ... or just pull it off and go. The Filter underneath is still nice and clean. Extends your range in super dusty conditions a bit.
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Old 12-19-2012, 02:04 PM   #72041
Ren20
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Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 111
Was browsing ideas to mount more switches. Came across this youtube vid. Thought i'd share. Is this bike belonged to someone here?

Sweet job.
http://youtu.be/gvQLjjlxc40

(tried to embed but doesn't work)

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Old 12-19-2012, 02:40 PM   #72042
Mambo Dave
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Location: Pompano Beach, FL
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There is a reply that says someone's name is Bultaco ?

It may be Bultaco206 since he owned a DR650, but I haven't checked the other 12 or so Bultaco guys. http://advrider.com/forums/memberlis...ltr=B&page=516

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
Was browsing ideas to mount more switches. Came across this youtube vid. Thought i'd share. Is this bike belonged to someone here?

Sweet job.
http://youtu.be/gvQLjjlxc40

(tried to embed but doesn't work)





Mambo Dave screwed with this post 12-19-2012 at 02:47 PM
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Old 12-19-2012, 02:51 PM   #72043
Foot dragger
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
Oddometer: 12,789
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
"Penny Wise, Pound Foolish" ??? 'Ya heard of that one?
Sure, a 520 kit is cheaper than a 525. If you're into your DR for a few weekends a year ... then all good, go for it.

But if you plan to cover some miles over years then the 525 is better value.
Now ... if you use your DR650 for doing serious off road then the 520 is maybe a better way to go. Lower gearing options with the 520. But make no mistake, a 525 set last longer.

As time goes by more and more sprocket choices are becoming available in the 525 size. Check with Jesse at Keintech or Pro Cycle. Both have some options last I checked.

19K miles is really good ... if you're talking about a stock chain/sprockets.
My stock chain only went to 14K miles. You must be doing something right!

I would shop around ... but buy the DID 525 X ring VX or VM2 chain.
I like Suzuki OEM sprockets best ... but if you want lower gearing then you'll have to use other brands like JT, PBI, Sunstar or what ever (be careful of "whatever" ).

I have done over 24K miles on the 525 VM2 DID X Ring chain. I switch
front sprockets about every 8K miles. Allows chain long long life.
The hunky DID X ring chains are nearly maintenance free ... and never need adjustment.

Go with cheap, off brand chains and sprockets at your peril.

New Cush Drive rubbers are a good idea ... at least every 20K miles.
ALSO ... Check out your rubber swing arm chain slider while you're at it, especially near main swing arm bolt. If worn ... change it for a new one.

Have fun!
That all sounds good,but. I put a decent quality set of 520 chain/sprockets on my DR and they have about 14000 on them and still look great,thats with hammering the bike in some dual purpose rides where it had no business . Ive adjusted it maybe twice? Quality being the key word here.

If there was some sort of problem on a trip and you have to buy a chain or masterlink,520 is at every shop. 525 is not.
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Old 12-19-2012, 02:55 PM   #72044
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
Derek, pulled the top off the carb and you were right. compleatly coated in dust. ive got a unifilter installed on the hose that goes to the top of the carb but it looks like a few hundred kms of the talcum powder that makes up the logging road surfaces in borneo just went straight through the unifilter and into the carb............
This has worked well for me, but I don't ride in extreme dust conditions. Even when completely dirty, there is no dust in the tube, or top of carb. It's easily cleaned and re-oiled. Idea by Rusty Rocket.

More info here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=82

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-19-2012 at 03:02 PM
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Old 12-19-2012, 02:58 PM   #72045
Ridin'nFishin
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Joined: Apr 2009
Oddometer: 433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
Was browsing ideas to mount more switches. Came across this youtube vid. Thought i'd share. Is this bike belonged to someone here?

Sweet job.
http://youtu.be/gvQLjjlxc40

(tried to embed but doesn't work)

The bike belonged to to Curtis at the time of vid. He bought it from one of the other guys (Will) in the vid.

The bike now resides in my garage, I bought it from Curtis.
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