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Old 12-18-2012, 09:45 PM   #72031
ER70S-2
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Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
520 conversion, yay or nay?
I was about to order the Drivetrain kit from Procycle as my lower roller is pretty worn and my chain and sprockets are toast at 19,000 miles and it comes with cush rubbers and some bolts for the rear sprocket. I don't really care for the locking axle nut, is this all I need? how about 16/42, does it suck off road?

I'm not a fan of the 520 conversion. Smaller, less wear surfaces, wears out faster. Their advantage is that there are more rear sprocket gearing selections available. If you're sure of the gearing you want and can't find it, the 520 may have what you want.

I bought the locking axle nut and I hated it. Every time I took it off, it took another cut off the threads on my axle. If I'd had it on earlier, the threads on my axle would be toast.

I really like the 16t countershaft sprocket. It drops the rpm of the motor to a level where the engine is completely comfortable at 75 mph. Many inmates are happy with the 15/42 but that spins the motor up too high for me. I ran a 16t last year on a trip in San Diego. It was like having overdrive, using 1st thru 4th for most riding and using 5th as an overdrive on the many highway miles that we rode to get to dirt. And since I was almost 6,000 feet lower than in Denver, the DR pulled the 16t with ease.

Disclaimer: I did not ride to San Diego, I put the DR in the truck where it belonged.

Welcome to Lake Tahoe:



On the way east out of Nevado on hwy 50, there were miles and miles and many more miles of ice. Hope yer not in a hurry.

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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 12-18-2012 at 10:04 PM
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:55 PM   #72032
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did the 16 tooth make off road riding in 1st cumbersome?
I would rather go with the 525 but the $$ of the 520 works for me right now, the kit comes with cush rubbers too and mine are worn.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:09 PM   #72033
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Don't pass up a good deal.

Unless the offroad was easy forest roads, the 16t is pretty tall. So much so that I didn't like getting caught in traffic; too much clutch slipping to get rolling after a complete stop.
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:22 PM   #72034
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most of my offroading is forest roads or jeep or as they say here in FL path to the ole fishing hole roads so I may just stick with stock gearing. I commute 75 miles or so a day but most of it is 2 lane and very seldom get it up to freeway speed. thanks for the info and love the pics!
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:26 PM   #72035
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Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
did the 16 tooth make off road riding in 1st cumbersome?
I would rather go with the 525 but the $$ of the 520 works for me right now, the kit comes with cush rubbers too and mine are worn.
I dont see using a 16 tooth sprocket offroad as a good thing. I ran 15-42 (stock) once and I knew it needed to be lower.

The good thing about the DR is the gearbox spread is pretty wide. This allows you to use the front sprocket as a "change the type of bike" type of mod. I am currently running 14-43, and the bike is worlds better in the dirt (bout to try with my new tm40 carb tomorrow ) for me. The DR is a big bike, and at times, you are going to want to crawl it as the heavy weight will kill the suspension when nailing big ruts at high speed. Lower gearing will allow the DR to crawl in these terrains, and you can use the engines torque to keep momentum. In my opinion, the DR's engine is its biggest asset offroad (next to the knobbies it has, right? right??).

I am passing along some advice Ive read in these forums (might be earlier in this massive thread). Perhaps the single best all solution setup is to stay with a 525 chain, get a 45 tooth rear steel sprocket from keintech, and then get a 14, 15, and 16 tooth front sprocket. You will need to get a 120 link chain, and cut it down to accommodate the 16-45 combo, but then you will have 3 totally different bikes in one. 16-45 will be good for freeways- it is nearly stock gearing (equivalent to one up in the rear, or 15-43). Most feel this is too high for dirt, but good on highways and even freeway. Going 15-45 will give you the equivalent of what im running now (14-43), but the chain will last longer (since the countershaft sprocket is bigger and the chain doesnt have to turn as tight a circle, same with the rear); 15-45 (or 14-43) I find great in dirt, and the bike runs comfortably up to about 65mph. Peoples opinions on this differ, but I dont want to run 6k on a DR all the time, and this setup will keep you below 5k at these speeds. If you need to do more, it will do 80+. Finally, you can switch to 14-45. This is if things get steep and really hairy. The DR will climb like a goat and engine-brake like crazy down a hill, and you will be able to crawl very well.

This sounds good to me, and I might run this setup on my Alaska trip next year. Id prolly run 15-45 95% of the time, with 16-45 for the few freeway backtrack stints I have planned and 14-45 for colorado.

GSF1200S screwed with this post 12-18-2012 at 10:32 PM
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:31 PM   #72036
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Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
most of my offroading is forest roads or jeep or as they say here in FL path to the ole fishing hole roads so I may just stick with stock gearing. I commute 75 miles or so a day but most of it is 2 lane and very seldom get it up to freeway speed. thanks for the info and love the pics!
Wow, well I know exactly what youre riding since im in North Florida with a DR as well. I would really say, especially with the sand, at least run stock (15-42), or consider picking up a 14 tooth front for offroad duty.

I do think a lot of this depends on skill level too. I know guys who could take my DR and smoke me riding a KTM 525. Im still learning, but if you have to ask about whether 16 tooth is too much, im assuming you are as well (maybe just the bike though). Keintech makes a mighty spiffy circlip for quick sprocket changes
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Old 12-19-2012, 12:10 AM   #72037
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Have you been increasing the lift hole area, or leaving it stock? I assume this is a single lift hole model? Make sure you are preventing the ingress of dirt through the carb vent (the 1/2" {~13mm) steel elbow on the back of the carb, just under the diaphragm).

Regards,

Derek

Derek, pulled the top off the carb and you were right. compleatly coated in dust. ive got a unifilter installed on the hose that goes to the top of the carb but it looks like a few hundred kms of the talcum powder that makes up the logging road surfaces in borneo just went straight through the unifilter and into the carb. ill be sending you an email regarding replacement parts, but the other side of the story now is how do i stop this from happening again? does anyone run anything other than the unifilter on their carb vent? as far as im concerned its useless for anything other than stopping sand.
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Old 12-19-2012, 01:54 AM   #72038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
did the 16 tooth make off road riding in 1st cumbersome?
I would rather go with the 525 but the $$ of the 520 works for me right now, the kit comes with cush rubbers too and mine are worn.
Mine is a south Florida DR, and if you know the hell of south Florida, the limited (and far away) places to ride off-road (which are really fire or access roads... or swamp buddy roads), then you'll understand why I generally get away with the stock rear sprocket and a 16 tooth front. For a good while there I was using the DR650 to commute 80 miles a day on I-95, and down here if you're slower than 10% of the traffic while doing that much commuting, then you're asking to be killed. So the DR had to stay up there at very fast speeds.

I've gotten away with the set-up for relatively flat mud, water crossings (and it was too high for those since water would be pushed up into the air box), and such, but I'm pretty sure I'd buy and keep with me a 14 tooth for anything like real trail riding, even if it was just north Florida.
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:59 AM   #72039
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Eh? DR650 Value?

Hi All,
Am looking at selling my DR650. It is 2008 model with about 22000kms on it. Various mods including staintune exhaust, safari tank, fat bars, pegs lowered, bash plate, barkbusters, grip warmers, jet kit, 12V outlet plus a few more minor mods. Currently with brand new Mitas tyres, and rego til July 13.
What do you reckon its worth?
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:43 AM   #72040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
Derek, pulled the top off the carb and you were right. compleatly coated in dust. ive got a unifilter installed on the hose that goes to the top of the carb but it looks like a few hundred kms of the talcum powder that makes up the logging road surfaces in borneo just went straight through the unifilter and into the carb. ill be sending you an email regarding replacement parts, but the other side of the story now is how do i stop this from happening again? does anyone run anything other than the unifilter on their carb vent? as far as im concerned its useless for anything other than stopping sand.
If I remember the BST bible post correctly, your diaphragm and that whole top area are going to get dirty no matter what. Something about them having access to good ol unfiltered air by design. I could be misremembering though.
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:59 AM   #72041
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Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Wow, well I know exactly what youre riding since im in North Florida with a DR as well. I would really say, especially with the sand, at least run stock (15-42), or consider picking up a 14 tooth front for offroad duty.
Funny how terrain will dictate gearing. I ride in rocks. Lots of baseball to basketball sized rocks. Almost never level terrain.

I have ridden my DR thropugh this "road". Google "Old Florida Road" to see Jeeps have trouble makin' it.

Watch part duex if you want the worst stuff right away.




I use 14/42 sprockets with 520 oring chain. I carry a 13 tooth sprocket in my tool pack in case I need to lower my gearing. I have never had to put it on.

I did put a 15 tooth sprocket (stock gearing)on for a trip I took down the Skyline Drive and the BlueRidgeParkway. I think that was a good idea, but I went back to 14/42 as soon as I got home. The "thrust" I get when I crack the throttle is way better with the lower gearing. I can loft the front wheel with throttle alone in first and second. Third if I use my body.

Terrain dictates gearing. I personally feel that 16/42 is too high, but I never ride that kind of terrain.
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Rusty Rocket screwed with this post 12-19-2012 at 06:06 AM
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:30 AM   #72042
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Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
If I remember the BST bible post correctly, your diaphragm and that whole top area are going to get dirty no matter what. Something about them having access to good ol unfiltered air by design. I could be misremembering though.
the bible states: thou shalst doist this: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114485

which i did but the top of my carb still looked like this

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Old 12-19-2012, 06:47 AM   #72043
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Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
the bible states: thou shalst doist this: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114485

which i did but the top of my carb still looked like this
Like any fabric or foam filter those little breather filters need to be oiled to filter properly. The same goes for the stock canister filter.
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:02 AM   #72044
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Like any fabric or foam filter those little breather filters need to be oiled to filter properly. The same goes for the stock canister filter.
i think im a bit too used to/spoilt by industrial filters that are more of a "set and forget" design usually. Derek, what are the risks of letting small amounts of oil into the top of the carbie? id imagine mixing with any dust that gets in there and binding of the slide is a potential risk? or will the fuel from the choke wash things nicely? might have to start looking for a sintered metal filter?
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:25 AM   #72045
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post

I use 14/42 sprockets with 520 oring chain. I carry a 13 tooth sprocket in my tool pack in case I need to lower my gearing. I have never had to put it on.
That is some rougher (seemingly flat, but camera perspectives are tough to see) stuff, but you seem to be using the clutch a lot, too. Which is fine, but the gearing seems low enough that you (just about) don't ever get the bike into its power much, either.
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