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Old 12-31-2012, 07:21 AM   #72346
neo1piv014
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Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Most hand warmers use 20-30 watts which is only 1.75 - 2.5 amps. The switched thing in the dash harness would handle that just fine. But, don't also use it for a full jacket liner and pants or generally load it up.
The only thing I have on that switched pair is a 12v cigarette outlet for charging my cell phone. I don't think a 5v USB charger is putting much of a strain on my electrical system, but I can always just not use them both at the same time. If I remember Webbikeworld's DR650 project bike, the electrical system was a bit under powered. I don't know if I would want to run heated grips and heated clothing at the same time anyways. If that pair can handle it, then I'm going to move the grips over to it. The less I have to worry about it, the better.
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:11 AM   #72347
Rusty Rocket
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Happy New Year everyone.

My resolution; RIDE MORE
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:21 AM   #72348
gbmaz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty rocket View Post
happy new year everyone.

My resolution; ride more
+100.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:11 AM   #72349
doug s.
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dr650 engine on ebay

seems a mite expensive, but still cheaper than installing new nova racing 3rd gear set, for you paranoid types...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130825591884

doug s.
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:08 PM   #72350
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHILinFRANCE View Post
Cheers dljocky
Haven't off roaded her properly yet , too shinny !!!!! but put it this way "the DRs staying" simple, tough and fits me perfect horses for corses !!
I've bought the Tenere for a planned tour dsown the West Coast of Africa in 2014 so need to spend loads on her yet. I wanted to take the DR but she's a 96 and i fancied something a little newer for the trip, that being said i my not have it in a year !!!
I will be dropping the motor on the DR and doing the 3rd and possibly other gears this year so MAYBE she'll go back to Africa , done Morocco twice on her without a hickup.
Phil
She's a beaut Phil! In the US we've been proper cheated by Yamaha's reluctance to import this bike. She is a bit heavy though ... but I'd bet a good traveler.

A couple mods I thought about if I ever got hold of one would be:
1. Go with a single exhaust
2. Eliminate one front brake rotor.

Right there you've knocked off about 20 kgs. (+ -) Brake rotors/calipers are super heavy ... as are stock mufflers.

I'm thinking those two Mods would trim the BIG Tenere' down into DR650 territory.

You are one Hell of a Mud rider! I'd have been on my ass in that stuff!
(on my DR anyway) Cheers mate!
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:14 PM   #72351
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blk-betty View Post
Thanks for the suggestions.

I tend to use blue loctite regularly but never used it on exhaust header bolts. I did use a new gasket so I think maybe the intital run didtn't get things hot enough for a proper re-torque. Will pick up some new bolts and will add a little blue locktite.
I believe there is high temp loc tite. Vague memories from A&P school. Don't over torque ... let the Loc tite hold things. Did you use a new Copper ring/washer in there? (I think it's Copper?) re-anneal the old one if you haven't done that. (Heat up to cherry red, let cool ... done)
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:31 PM   #72352
PHILinFRANCE
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Location: S W France my little bit of paradise
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Heavy, BUT well balanced , lighter than i thought, the cans that are on are after market, Arrow and sound the bollox, i have tought about dropping a disc , we'll see !!! I am going to try a 14 tooth for off road as the 15 standard is to high for me.
Maybe Yam will change their mind and let you guys over the pond have a go

ps ...................there's still no beating the DR what a bike

Cheers Phil
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:52 PM   #72353
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
you probably wouldn't want to do on any $5000 GayTeeEmm? See below:

]
Is that what a Murcan rides?
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:30 PM   #72354
Carl Childers
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Location: Northern New Mexico
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Question Couple of fork Questions

I tore down my forks today in anticipation of my new parts showing up soon and a couple of questions came to mind. First on a progressively wound spring do the tight coils go up or down or isn't there much difference? A MC shop had the forks apart before I owned the bike so I can't be sure the way they came out would have been the way the factory put them in.

Secondly what are you guys using for seal drivers on these forks? Is there a size PVC pipe that works?
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:41 PM   #72355
Lil' Steve
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Location: NYC, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
I tore down my forks today in anticipation of my new parts showing up soon and a couple of questions came to mind. First on a progressively wound spring do the tight coils go up or down or isn't there much difference? A MC shop had the forks apart before I owned the bike so I can't be sure the way they came out would have been the way the factory put them in.

Secondly what are you guys using for seal drivers on these forks? Is there a size PVC pipe that works?

Tight coils up is the way they come from the factory.

2" PVC pipe works, you can use the old seals to drive the new ones in, they fit nicely on top of each other.
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:57 PM   #72356
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
2" PVC pipe works, you can use the old seals to drive the new ones in, they fit nicely on top of each other.
I used the wire brush on my bench grinder around the outside of the old seal to take the rubber coating off; so it wouldn't stick in the fork tube on top of the new seal (someone else's idea, werked fer me).
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:10 PM   #72357
JagLite
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Thumb Loc Tite or anti=sieze that is the question

Quote:
Originally Posted by blk-betty View Post
Thanks for the suggestions.

I tend to use blue loctite regularly but never used it on exhaust header bolts. I did use a new gasket so I think maybe the intital run didtn't get things hot enough for a proper re-torque. Will pick up some new bolts and will add a little blue locktite.
I got my new Clymer manual today from ProCycle (thanks!) and I looked through it quickly and found what it says for the header bolts.

Page 66

6.b. Install a new gasket jnto the cylinder head exhaust port.
6.c. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads.
6.d. Tighten the exhaust pipe retaining bolts securely.

6.f. Retighten the bolts after running the engine and allowing it to cool.

I didn't look at my Suzi factory manual but I expect it to say the same thing.
Anti-seize and retighten.

Not sure what torque value "securely" is though
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:55 PM   #72358
Cobain
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Location: Spokane
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I mounted, dismounted, and remounted my first rear tire today. Pinched the tube, patched it, then it leaked again, and i tore up the bead of the tire pretty good. That will be the last time i try to do that. I realize why i pay $25 now.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:20 PM   #72359
kezzajohnson
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Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Torque

Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I got my new Clymer manual today from ProCycle (thanks!) and I looked through it quickly and found what it says for the header bolts.

Page 66

6.b. Install a new gasket jnto the cylinder head exhaust port.
6.c. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads.
6.d. Tighten the exhaust pipe retaining bolts securely.

6.f. Retighten the bolts after running the engine and allowing it to cool.

I didn't look at my Suzi factory manual but I expect it to say the same thing.
Anti-seize and retighten.


Not sure what torque value "securely" is though
According to my manual, Exhaust bolts torque to 26NM
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:50 AM   #72360
gippyphil
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Location: Gippsland, Victoria, Australia
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Cry

Help me, DR650 riders, you're my only hope!

I dropped my 2011 DR, and bent the bars. By all accounts, this is not uncommon, and I have been reading threads on bar recommendations. However, it seems that the part the "bottom" part of the left bar clamp is also bent back about 10-15 degrees (see photo). This appears to be bolted on to the top of the forks (I can feel a bolt hole on the underside). If so, what is this replacement part called? If not, what is the whole "top of the forks" part called, and can it be fixed?

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