the DR650 thread

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

Def an IMS.

I agree, IMS tank.

[acesandeights]

Originally Posted by Carl Childers

I'm going to be tearing my front forks apart to replace the seals and while I'm at it I'm thinking of adding a pair of intiminators. Question is should I be looking at changing the springs to? I'd like to make the forks the best they can be without replacing them all together, Anything else I should be looking at while I'm in there? I probably weigh in at 200 lbs. with all my riding gear on if that makes a difference with springs etc.

Where and what conditions do you ride. Emulators might be a better choice, depending.

[amk]

Originally Posted by Dkscism

Hey guys I'm new to the forum here and new to Dual sport(ing)--can I use that as a verb? Anyways for a brief introduction I'm a nineteen year old college student in Clemson, SC. I' have never ridden street before but I raced MX for most of my childhood and teenage years. Anyways, now that my racing days are over I'm looking for the next best thing and have been looking into dual sport bikes for over a year. From what I've gathered, a DR 650 will fit my needs best. This would involve more street riding than off road with the occasional 100-200 mile trip. I've looked into buying new and used. The best asking price I've found is for a brand new 2012 model asking 5200 on the sticker. Right now (and I'm not sure for how long) Suzuki is offering 0% financing in these. With that being said, I still would consider buying used if it were, say an 04 and up model. Is it realistic that I could find a used bike that is in good enough condition and priced right to beat the $5200 0% brand new bike? Seems unlikely to me. Opinions?

Find a test ride first. Chances are you won't like it, more or less DR is old fart's bike, and it is, by its design, older than you are.
Chances are you like it, then find a used one, to buy new seems impractical. With tough environment protection acts carbed bikes will end, suzuki will either upgrade them soon or stop them altogether.

[procycle]

Originally Posted by Carl Childers

I'm going to be tearing my front forks apart to replace the seals and while I'm at it I'm thinking of adding a pair of intiminators. Question is should I be looking at changing the springs to? I'd like to make the forks the best they can be without replacing them all together, Anything else I should be looking at while I'm in there? I probably weigh in at 200 lbs. with all my riding gear on if that makes a difference with springs etc.

If you want them 'the best they can be' install springs and Race Tech Cartridge Emulators. If you just want to make a big improvement with a small amount of work and expense go with the Imtiminators and keep stock springs. The intiminators are designed to work best with softer springs than would otherwise be recommended with traditional valving. You can always put stiffer springs in later if you think you need them.

[blk-betty]

Originally Posted by Dkscism

Anyways for a brief introduction I'm a nineteen year old college student in Clemson, SC..... From what I've gathered, a DR 650 will fit my needs best....The best asking price I've found is for a brand new 2012 model asking 5200 on the sticker. Right now (and I'm not sure for how long) Suzuki is offering 0% financing in these. With that being said, I still would consider buying used if it were, say an 04 and up model. Is it realistic that I could find a used bike that is in good enough condition and priced right to beat the $5200 0% brand new bike? Seems unlikely to me. Opinions?

Go Tigers, Beat LSU!

'88 Clemson Grad.

Now that the important stuff is out of the way, I went through the same decision process a little over a year ago and I think the new price at the time here in Charleston was around $5200 as well but don't know what financing was like. I found a completely stock '09 with about 5000 miles on it 2 hours away from here and paid $3800.

If time is not an issue and you have the ability to travel (couple hundred miles) you can probably find a 1-5 year old DR for $3500-4000. I then spent the difference between new and used price on a seat, windscreen, tires, handlebars, exhaust, carb jet, handguards, gas tank, luggage rack, skid plate, engine armor plates,....you get the point!



If your plans are to leave it realtively stock, why not go new. But if your like the rest of us, buy used and save some money to set it up the way you want.

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by neo1piv014

4 - Right now, I just followed the instructions and wired the things straight into my battery. This does mean that any joker can come by in the parking lot, push the ON button, and kill my battery. It also means that I have to be vigilant about turning them off when I turn off the bike. Does anyone else run heated grips off that switched ignition pair that resides under our headlight shrouds? They have a 5A inline fuse, and I don't think the wattage was actually all that high.

I'm using the switched pair in the headlight cowl. Seems to work fine powering my heated grips. No fuse problems or any other probs in 5 years.
Thin rubber grips are the way to ... thick ones insulate too well and block heat transfer. I can feel mine down to about 20F ... below that you hardly know they are on. I'm using the Dual Star heaters. Not bad.

If you look around you may find Snow Mobile grips with higher output ... but be careful not to MELT your throttle tube ... or switch to a metal throttle tube.

[Adv Grifter]

Originally Posted by Cobain

I need your advice. My tank recently cracked and i had to get it welded, it cracked because it flexes too much on the rubber grommets holding it to the frame. What can i do to stop the flexing of the tabs that holt the tank down? I already got new rubber grommets.

Don't bolt them down so tightly ... allows more flex, less stress.

[canoli]

Done!



That ought to do it. Thanks again for the help.

Canoli

[procycle]

Originally Posted by Adv Grifter

Don't bolt them down so tightly ... allows more flex, less stress.

If ALL the parts are there (4 cushions, 2 collars and 2 bolts) it won't make any difference how tight the bolts are. The bolts tighten against the collars and the tank rides in the cushions. I suspect the collars are missing.

[TRAVELGUY]

I think your going to melt you fuel line with it touching the cylinder. Since your fuel tube rotated easily turn it clockwise to three o'clock position. That will keep the fuel line away from hot things. That is what I did with my DR/Safari combo.

TrvelGuy

Originally Posted by canoli

Done!



That ought to do it. Thanks again for the help.

Canoli

[Carl Childers]

Thanks all for your replies, your information will help me decide. I ride about 90% off road in high desert and mountain terrain even when I take trips I keep pavement to a bare minimum.

[canoli]

Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY

I think your going to melt you fuel line with it touching the cylinder. Since your fuel tube rotated easily turn it clockwise to three o'clock position. That will keep the fuel line away from hot things. That is what I did with my DR/Safari combo.

TrvelGuy

[greener556]

I've got a 320mm EBC rotor, is there any way I can cross reference the part number and find out everything it will fit on?

[procycle]

Originally Posted by greener556

I've got a 320mm EBC rotor, is there any way I can cross reference the part number and find out everything it will fit on?

Sure, A google search with the part number should turn up the applications

[ER70S-2]

205'd

Originally Posted by greener556

I've got a 320mm EBC rotor, is there any way I can cross reference the part number and find out everything it will fit on?

Maybe EBC's website can help.

I can add this, the 320mm EBC from Procycle, fits my DR650 (duh).

SM6094C
Part #: 1710138
ROTOR EBC ST SM6094C

EU BARCODE 5 || 050953 || 315282 ||
USA BARCODE 0 || 84794 || 30087 || 5