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Old 01-02-2013, 08:08 AM   #72406
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Blowing it out with a drinking straw works fairly well.

I take a inflation needle for a basketball, cut off the very end to open it up and use it with my little tire pump that I run off the bike's battery. This works surprisingly well as an air hose.

...........shu
Likewise, get a shop-vac, or any vacuum with a hose, a plastic bag or baggie (or a piece of pastic) and that same straw. Stick the straw through the plastic, then hold it and the plastic up to block the vacuum hose so it makes the vacuum suck through the straw.

---

I have two long tire irons that have curves in them, and while they won't fit in a fender bag, those and perhaps one spoon would be ideal I'd think.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:48 AM   #72407
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Alright, so I don't exactly know what everyone means when they're referring to this. Assuming the side of the tire facing up is "Side A," and the side facing the floor is "Side B," and I'm trying to spoon the tire on at the 12 o'clock position, am I using my knees to push side A into the dish, or am I reaching down with my hand to compress sides A and B into the dish?
The point is not to only push the tire into the dish at 6 o'clock but to push it in from say 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock or as much of the circumference as possible.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:55 AM   #72408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The point is not to only push the tire into the dish at 6 o'clock but to push it in from say 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock or as much of the circumference as possible.
Neduro's big tire change thread is really a good thing to go through if you really want to learn all the tricks about changing tires.
I learned about pulling the tire bead off both sides of the rim and then stuff the wheel inside the tire to get the tire off the rim.
Its so much easier I about kicked myself for all the times Ive done it the hard way.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:54 AM   #72409
victor441
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Tires are tough, no question. Experience helps ... but I've been doing it for years and still suffer ... but I'm cheap and don't have all the best and proper tools. Having the right tools and techniques really makes things much easier. Take it from a "right bodger" !

On the DR certain rear road tires can be VERY tough to break the bead on.
A real bead breaker is a must. The Avon Distanzia can be a real BEAR to break the bead on.

For remounting try using the BIG Zip tie method. Documented here somewhere ... but basically using 4 or 5 BIG HD Zip ties to squish the two beads together to get the tire beads deep into the wheel well. This means less chance to pinch a tube and easier to pop it back on. Good smooth nose irons really help too. Once tire is on ... pull Zip ties out!

But in the end ... if you have room and some extra cash ... think about something like the No-Mar tire machine. A God Send!
I've been using six zip ties, works great, and it would be nearly impossible to pinch a tube this way...the tube is inflated just enough to round out and in put in the tire before the zip ties are applied. Little force is needed to get the tire on the rim. Real tire mounting lube helps a lot too, Napa sells a gallon for $12 or so. The original thread where I learned the zip tie trick is at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=299597 (learned recently, mounted a few tires easily, and have the zeal of the newly converted ;-) FWIW the zip ties can be reused too, the locking tab can be released with a small screwdriver.




victor441 screwed with this post 01-02-2013 at 10:13 AM
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:23 AM   #72410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Alright, so I don't exactly know what everyone means when they're referring to this. Assuming the side of the tire facing up is "Side A," and the side facing the floor is "Side B," and I'm trying to spoon the tire on at the 12 o'clock position, am I using my knees to push side A into the dish, or am I reaching down with my hand to compress sides A and B into the dish?




Everything you do will be on 'side A'.

1.Get some real tire lube from an auto parts store or online.
Brush it on with a small cheap paintbrush around the whole tire bead. In my experience real tire lube will stay wet and slippery longer than a soap mixture which evaporates pretty fast.


2. Get a 'bead buddy' ($10 available almost any shop or on line) and put it on the rim at your 6:00 position. That will hold the tire down at that point in the deepest part of the wheel well. Kneel on the tire at 4:00 and 8:00. Now you are holding almost half the tire bead down in that well.

2. Use 3 tire irons. Start working at the tire just an inch past where your knee is holding the bead down. That would be at 3:00 or 9:00. Once you have levered that little bit on, leave the tire iron in and put your knee on it to keep from losing the bit you have gained. Take another little bite with another tire iron- either on that same side or by the other knee.

3. Keep working around until you are close to 12:00. All the while keep your focus on making sure the tire remains deep in the well. If it starts to take a lot of force to get a little bite of the tire over the rim, that means the other part of the tire is starting to creep up out of the well- put some lube on it and get it back down.

4. Depending on the tire, the last bite can take a little more force or sometimes it will just pop over the rim easily. Put some more lube on and judge your use of force- it is possible to tear the bead of the tire or break the internal wires that make it up.

5. When you're out getting your tire lube and bead buddy also pick up another ten dollar item: a tire valve 'snake' (I forget the real name). It.s a little piece of wire attached to a threaded bit that will thread into the valve of the tube. This little item will save you bruised and battered hands and a lot of cussing getting the valve stem in through the hole in the wheel.



It takes some practice. You'll get it and learn your own tricks on the way.

...............shu
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:51 AM   #72411
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
DO NOT do what Emm said and crank the engine with the spark plug hanging on by only a few threads! Not only is the piston going to push air out..it sucks air in. Also, a DR cranks with about 100-130 PSI of cranking compression and only having 2-3 threads on a plug and cranking can lead to damaged threads.
Relax - I'm not saying he should start the engine - this is an emergency measure where you have to stop sand getting into the hole. A couple of quick starter pushes are not going to damage anything. I've done it many times.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:59 PM   #72412
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I used to use tire irons like these and pinched alot of tubes.


Then I bought a set of these and it's been easy since.








Keeping the tire down in the rim is paramount. It also helps to put some air in the tube. just enough to make it round and that helps it stay outta the way of the irons. be sure to use soapy water as a lubricant.
I have the red handle tire irons ... great! Very easy on tubes!
I put air in my tube once the get the TUBE in the tire .... this to straighten it out and make sure there are no "folds" in the tube.

BUT ... after that ... I pull the valve stem OUT and 100% deflate it. Too much air in the tube will make mounting the tire much tougher.
Don't ask me how I know this!!

Some guys use wood or plastic wedges to force and HOLD tire bead/side wall down into wheel well. The Zip Tie method does a similar thing ... but compresses BOTH sides of the tire ... allowing the tire beads to drop in. Makes spooning on the tire easier.
REMEMBER: Small bites! Don't get in a hurry!
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:15 PM   #72413
planemanx15
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Has anybody here bought the HID kit from Procycle? I have tried 2 others, one from Ebay, the other from DDM tuning, and both have failed me in under 3 months. The DDM kit needed a lot of trimming and wiring to make it work. Is the procycle kit plug and play?
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:25 PM   #72414
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
5. When you're out getting your tire lube and bead buddy also pick up another ten dollar item: a tire valve 'snake' (I forget the real name). It.s a little piece of wire attached to a threaded bit that will thread into the valve of the tube. This little item will save you bruised and battered hands and a lot of cussing getting the valve stem in through the hole in the wheel.

It takes some practice. You'll get it and learn your own tricks on the way.

...............shu
Valve Stem puller ... about $6 at Rocky Mountain! Very handy!

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ve+stem+puller

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Old 01-02-2013, 03:32 PM   #72415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Valve Stem puller ... about $6 at Rocky Mountain! Very handy!

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ve+stem+puller

I really wish I had invested in one of these before trying a tire change. I think I spent more time trying to get the valve stem through the rim than any other part.
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:43 PM   #72416
redfishguide
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For me the easiest way is to put the tube in the tire with a little bit of air then position the tire with the valve stem near the rim hole. Pull the stem away from the tire and push through the hole get a couple of turns with the nut then continue to mount the tire. Actually quite easy when you have done it a time or two. No more buised fingers and no need for gimicky accessories.

Jack



Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I really wish I had invested in one of these before trying a tire change. I think I spent more time trying to get the valve stem through the rim than any other part.
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:48 PM   #72417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
I really wish I had invested in one of these before trying a tire change. I think I spent more time trying to get the valve stem through the rim than any other part.
If your just changing out tires and not the tube, there is no need to remove that stem from the rim. Your creating more work for yourself. Simply remove the tube with the stem still installed after you remove the top bead from the rim, and tuck it under the brake disc. The go ahead and remove the rest of the tire.
Keep the tube tucked under the disc and take your new tire and push it over the tube in the stem area and spoon the tire back on.
No stem removal needed.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:33 PM   #72418
JagLite
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Question Crank Breather Hose

OK, for a break from our regularly scheduled tire changing discussion, it is time for a mental exercise.

I am using a pod filter and don't want to run the breather hose around to the far end and drill a hole for it.

My thought is of running the stock hose location up through the frame for high point and then running the hose down near the swingarm pivot and adding either a small catch tank or another small filter (like the carb breather) on the end of it. I don't know how much oil actually makes it out of the crank case, up to the top fitting, and then down the second hose.

Your recommendations?




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Old 01-02-2013, 05:14 PM   #72419
TrophyHunter
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To keep the CLEAN look of that thing, I'd just run it up - L fitting - catch area dropped down on a T fitting after a short hose - other side of T - breather filter.

Nicely done,
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:18 PM   #72420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Has anybody here bought the HID kit from Procycle? I have tried 2 others, one from Ebay, the other from DDM tuning, and both have failed me in under 3 months. The DDM kit needed a lot of trimming and wiring to make it work. Is the procycle kit plug and play?
I have the Procycle HID kit, ran it all summer with ZERO problems. And yes it is plug and play, just need to run a wire to the battery and to a ground.
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