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Old 01-04-2013, 08:47 AM   #72481
TIGERRIDER007
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Roger than Trophy Hunter, great video by the way! That was some rocky riding at points.
I suppose I'll be looking at both bikes, then factor in price, condition, and mileage, and seller location...then pull the trigger when it's time.
I'll keep these suspension upgrades tips because I'm sure the bike will need upgrades.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:12 AM   #72482
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
depending on how tough the trails you plan to ride are and what kind of tar and how much you have to ride (miles) to get there.

DRZ400 is gonna be better as the terrain get's tougher, but the DR will be nicer while getting there on tar. Gnarly single track will tire you out on a DR650. (that's what my KTM400 is for). The DR650 is the bike you want if it's gonna be dirt roads and jeep roads. Easier trails are fine too, but rock gardens and deep mud are just no fun. (not much better on a DRZ either) The weight difference is about 50 lbs IIRC.
PLUS ONE! +++
That's a very accurate assessment between the DR and DRZ. I owned the "E" model DRZ ... and it's MUCH better than the street legal "S" model off road. If you can find a "legal" E model, go that way if more knarly trails are on the agenda. (It's lighter, different motor, better suspension)

Neither even come close to the DR everyplace else. Also ... the DR650 is very nice to load up with cargo. The DRZ's? It's a PItA ... and your load has to be small. On highway even the S street model DRZ is spinning hard at 70 mph. The DR is loafing at 70 mph.

But as said above ... on more challenging trails the DRZ trumps the DR.

Maintenance wise both bikes are very good, not hard to maintain ... with a slight advantage to the DR650 with it's very simple valve adjustments.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:23 AM   #72483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
PLUS ONE! +++
That's a very accurate assessment between the DR and DRZ. I owned the "E" model DRZ ... and it's MUCH better than the street legal "S" model off road. If you can find a "legal" E model, go that way if more knarly trails are on the agenda. (It's lighter, different motor, better suspension)

Neither even come close to the DR everyplace else. Also ... the DR650 is very nice to load up with cargo. The DRZ's? It's a PItA ... and your load has to be small. On highway even the S street model DRZ is spinning hard at 70 mph. The DR is loafing at 70 mph.

But as said above ... on more challenging trails the DRZ trumps the DR.

Maintenance wise both bikes are very good, not hard to maintain ... with a slight advantage to the DR650 with it's very simple valve adjustments.

Thanks for the info, I'm really having trouble deciding...I really want a light bike to go off road and get a little aggressive with, I have a 955 Tiger for long trips and to pack up and go....so my wants lean me toward the DRZ, as long as it's not underpowered. I will also be riding with a few KTM guys (which doesn't mean much to me) and they have some very light machines...So, thank you guys for the information, I do believe these are great bikes and an even better value, so price, condition, and mileage will be important when it's time to buy.
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:16 PM   #72484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIGERRIDER007 View Post
Thanks for the info, I'm really having trouble deciding...I really want a light bike to go off road and get a little aggressive with, I have a 955 Tiger for long trips and to pack up and go....so my wants lean me toward the DRZ, as long as it's not underpowered. I will also be riding with a few KTM guys (which doesn't mean much to me) and they have some very light machines...So, thank you guys for the information, I do believe these are great bikes and an even better value, so price, condition, and mileage will be important when it's time to buy.
If you're riding with the KTM guys ... then I must say ... you should be on a KTM too. KTM four strokes of the last four or five years are a WHOLE generation ahead of the DRZ when it comes to competence off road. The Suzuki wins in the maintenance and reliability dept. but if you want to explore off road ... the KTM is far ahead.

If you have the budget ... find a nice used KTM 250 or 450 EXC. Also look around for a nice Husaberg and Husqvarna. Fantastic bikes off road and used prices are quite good. I recently rode a friends Husqvarna TE450 ... cool bike. FAST! And FUN!

I rode my '01 DRZ400E all over the Mojave dessert and Baja. It was good ... but the KTM's and Huskies are JUST BETTER. The Suzuki wins on highway but off road ? No contest.
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:45 PM   #72485
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
If you're riding with the KTM guys ... then I must say ... you should be on a KTM too. KTM four strokes of the last four or five years are a WHOLE generation ahead of the DRZ when it comes to competence off road. The Suzuki wins in the maintenance and reliability dept. but if you want to explore off road ... the KTM is far ahead.
Folks, I believe we have a blasphemer in the house. Someone get the torches, oil and feathers!


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Old 01-04-2013, 01:38 PM   #72486
eakins
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thanks for the feedback. sounds like you love the hi/lo kit vrs the lo only kit.

so the hi/lo kit is wired back to the battery too in addition to tapping into the stock bulb plug.
while the lo kit just has 2 wires only tapping into the bulb plug. do I have that right?
or do both styles have power back to the battery for the ballast units?

if i add this, should i keep my relay and utilize it or eliminate it out of the electrical loop as it's not need and just extra parts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
I don't plan to ride at night, but it happens from time to time.

I'd estimate the 35 w HID to double the light output of the previous +80% H4 fitted, with about double the depth and noticably more spread. Remember its somewhere between a square and cube function. Depends a bit on the reflector design. Twice the light output doesn't equal twice the range. The HID works OK in the DR and the low beam cutoff works good so no issues with blinding oncoming traffic.



The LEDs I have don't offer a lot of depth, the HID does that, but they noticably improve the spread. Tucked in and up, mounted to the barkbusters, they are out of the way and not too vulnerable.

Get a dipping HID, you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner.
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eakins screwed with this post 01-04-2013 at 02:11 PM
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:45 PM   #72487
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Originally Posted by heirhead View Post
Hello,

What kind of grips did you put on? On / off or many positions? The grips that is.

Thanks,

Heirhead
Oxford tend to be very popular as their designs are robust. The supply cable to grip interface is well built (then compare Hot Grips in this same area) and the control module is proven.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/heate...ord-hot-grips/

some use under-your-own-grip-choice heating element. these are harder to put on and the wire attachment can fail but you get to choose your own grip vrs the pre-molded oxford.

http://lockitt.com/AccessoriesGrips3.htm
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:00 PM   #72488
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Originally Posted by felixblack1 View Post
I think for most EFI would defeat the purpose of why most bought the simple DR.
i'm not sure about that. seems people start with a base-stock bike like the DR as it's stock form is older tech but very solid and reliable. then plenty add pumper carbs (... & $1000s of other mods) to further increase fueling on the DR. haven't seen people afraid to spend a good bit of $ on DR mods. i'm sure Jeff @ PC will attest to this spending. heavily moded bikes become less than simple.

modern FI components can work dead reliably and be found on "simple" bikes like the XT250 and the TU250. a properly tuned FI on a bike can be a mostly set it and forget thing and provide proper fueling at every elevation. except for the occasional FI body sync (you'd do this with carbs too) 650 Vstroms run day in day out on FI. we've all been driving FI cars forever and not worrying about if the FI will crap out.

that being said I think there are plenty to would love to have all the FI advantages and still have that same reliable base-stock DR bike under them.
MXRob has proven FI can work extremely well on a DR. If there was a 5 to 6 bill true PnP bolt on kit people would buy it.

read the reports. everyone with a TR650 or a WR250R or a CRF250L or a 500EXC is never looking to go backwards to a carb...nor are the MX guys racing on the track. They've fully embraced it because yes it works.

If Suzuki re-released the DR with FI (like Yamaha did with XT250) i'd upgrade.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:04 PM   #72489
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Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
I don't know about where you are, but in New York State, I need the high beam to pass the yearly safety inspection. You could just replace the bulb for that day, but why have to do more work than you need.
i live (my address is atleast where i get my mail @ my PO box) in the land of the ultimate bike freedom...western slope colorado.

where we can tag any motorcycle and have no bike inspections what so ever.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:05 PM   #72490
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Pretty much my sentiment.

I have a friend with 3 Huskys. TE610 carb'd, a TE310 FI and a 630SM FI. He had to buy expensive software to make the FI's run right. The carb'd bike, he just rides it. I purposely stayed away from FI. Don't understand it and I'm too old to learn.
yes those older Husky's have had issues. newer FI examples are done right.
there are plenty of carb bikes not running right from the factory too.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:16 PM   #72491
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if he can tag a dirt bike, the new FI Yamaha WR450F is one hell of an off-road machine if he wants to stay in the Japan INC. fold.
this tank will be in the US soon plus there are smaller options.
http://justgastanks.com/product_info...oducts_id=3554


Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
If you're riding with the KTM guys ... then I must say ... you should be on a KTM too. KTM four strokes of the last four or five years are a WHOLE generation ahead of the DRZ when it comes to competence off road. The Suzuki wins in the maintenance and reliability dept. but if you want to explore off road ... the KTM is far ahead.

If you have the budget ... find a nice used KTM 250 or 450 EXC. Also look around for a nice Husaberg and Husqvarna. Fantastic bikes off road and used prices are quite good. I recently rode a friends Husqvarna TE450 ... cool bike. FAST! And FUN!

I rode my '01 DRZ400E all over the Mojave dessert and Baja. It was good ... but the KTM's and Huskies are JUST BETTER. The Suzuki wins on highway but off road ? No contest.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:17 PM   #72492
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
yes those older Husky's have had issues. newer FI examples are done right.
there are plenty of carb bikes not running right from the factory too.
But with a carb, I but a couple $4 jets, not $300 software pkg.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:38 PM   #72493
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
thanks for the feedback. sounds like you love the hi/lo kit vrs the lo only kit.

so the hi/lo kit is wired back to the battery too in addition to tapping into the stock bulb plug.
while the lo kit just has 2 wires only tapping into the bulb plug. do I have that right?
or do both styles have power back to the battery for the ballast units?

if i add this, should i keep my relay and utilize it or eliminate it out of the electrical loop as it's not need and just extra parts?
With the single bulb kit no other power is required, all is provided through headlight plug. (only two of the three plugs used)

The Ballast and Ignitor plug together, both derive power from the headlight plug. ... that's it, No relay required.

But if you have one already wired in ... leave it. But to me, just one more thing to worry about and have to check to see if a solder joint cracked or plug broke.

I'm no fan of wires running all over my bike. Been there, done that with a former BMW R100RS I owned that had every accessory known to man on it. ... and guess who had to trouble shoot it many times at night crossing from New York to California? I made it work but with some difficulty. Wires were run from tail light to headlight, fuse blocks, Relays ... they all had issues after 75,000 hard miles. Luckily, for the most part the elec work was done by Pros so color coding and method were correct and not impossible to diagnose.
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:52 PM   #72494
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Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
But with a carb, I but a couple $4 jets, not $300 software pkg.
yes I agree that sucks from a cost perspective. most work right out of the box.
the Ecotrons ECU, i believe, has the ability to connect to a computer and adjust the fuel metering like other bikes. a pnp DR kit would of course have all the fueling fined tuned and perfected before it goes out the door. those that have tuned fueling with a computer via simply plugging in a usb (and changing up to new maps or fine-tuning existing ones) say it's a huge revelation compared pulling carbs and trying different jet combos and working on getting it right.

i'm sure people lamented points going away but no one would say nowadays they'd love toss their electronics to go back to points. i'd say FI is the future, but it's not really new by any stretch, and is here to stay.
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:05 PM   #72495
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I agree with added electrical parts to bikes. the more you add, the more things can get wonky over time. it's been on my bike for years with no issues and does help providing stronger juice for my regular H4 bulb.
i always knew if i lost lights (both hi & low) i could always plug straight back into the stock harness and get power back that way in a flash after 1st checking the relay fuse to confirm it's not that.

of course with a dual filament H4 bulb it's easy to tell if you have a bulb/filament issue, the other filament still burns so it's just a bulb replacement. what about HID lo only kit light failures?

I think the bulbs are more robust (the DR is a vibey thumper after all), but do you start with bulb replacement and see what happens? does the ballast/ignitor have any lights on it that says it's still ok? at this price point I know were talking about Chinese components so that's why i'm asking.

any know about HID hi/lo bulbs? are they total fail system or can 1 side, hi or lo still work?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
With the single bulb kit no other power is required, all is provided through headlight plug. (only two of the three plugs used)

The Ballast and Ignitor plug together, both derive power from the headlight plug. ... that's it, No relay required.

But if you have one already wired in ... leave it. But to me, just one more thing to worry about and have to check to see if a solder joint cracked or plug broke.

I'm no fan of wires running all over my bike. Been there, done that with a former BMW R100RS I owned that had every accessory known to man on it. ... and guess who had to trouble shoot it many times at night crossing from New York to California? I made it work but with some difficulty. Wires were run from tail light to headlight, fuse blocks, Relays ... they all had issues after 75,000 hard miles. Luckily, for the most part the elec work was done by Pros so color coding and method were correct and not impossible to diagnose.
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