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Old 01-05-2013, 07:23 AM   #72511
Sierra Thumper
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Joined: Oct 2012
Oddometer: 641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
That's some serious Butt Tough Cold riding! I wimp out in the 40's!
By the 20's I beg for mercy! My biggest worry is black ice. I've only hit it once ... made it through ... barely.

Would going richer on jetting help here? Maybe go rich on needle clip and turn out fuel-air screw? Or leave enricher (choke) on?

Don't know much regards covering the oil cooler but I doubt any damage would be done if you left it covered ... even into the 60's. The engine is still AIR COOLED and the fins do a lot of cooling regardless of the cooler.

I like you're idea of a good warm up when it's super cold. Let those parts warm up before putting a load on them. Syn oil is the way. Perfect for the cold. 10-40 should be OK.

Coldest I've ever ridden in (on motorcycles) is 10F. Nearly died! I had to get from N. Utah down through North rim of Grand Canyon, then South from there were it finally warmed up a bit. I was FROZEN solid.

Of course I rode snow mobiles in the Antarctic at minus 40F! Hardest part?
getting the fricken thing started! That was our record cold for the Winter in that part of the Banana belt of the Antarctic.
When I was a youngster my bikes were my only form of transportation.....I once literally got hypothermia on a long night ride in sub-freezing weather. I couldn't make it home, had to stop at a friends house to try and warm up, ended up staying there for a day till I was good enough to hit the road again. The bike was one of my 2 stroke street bikes, I think it was my Suzuki GT185 twin....it ran awesome in the cold.......me, not so much I got my first car soon after that........

I haven't been much of a real cold weather rider since
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:19 AM   #72512
sunthechip
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Joined: May 2012
Oddometer: 94
Hi guys,

I need help. My DR has been slow to start up. It usually starts on the 1st or 2nd crank, and now it takes 10+ cranks, and once the engine gets going it starts from a whimper and takes some time before it starts to rev at the normal ilde speed.

Here are the circumstances:

-Recently I changed to a Shorai Lithium battery.
-I swapped the old standard spark plugs for a set of Iridium CR10EIX plugs.
-I store the bike outside.
-It has been cold lately; yesterday the high was 43F and the low was 34F, and there was light rain.
-I have been using Startron Enzyme fuel treatment.
-The engine starts almost instantly after the bike has been warmed up.
-It seems as though there is a lot of white vapor coming out of the exhaust on startup, and it dissapears after I have been riding for a while ( this was yesterday, so it might have been the cold and high humidity).
-It may just be my imagination, but the exhaust has a weird smell to it now- almost like burnt rubber/plastic.
-I adjusted the valves not too long ago (2-3k mi. back), and I did it by the book.
-Sometimes I run the hand warmers and the high beam (brighter bulb) at the same time.

Thats about all I can think of.

Also:
-The time for an oil change and air filter clean is due soon. (Mostly street riding)

sunthechip screwed with this post 01-05-2013 at 08:29 AM
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:18 AM   #72513
PPCLI-Jim
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Location: Victoria BC where I ride year round.
Oddometer: 220
shut off the warmers about 10 min before the bike gets shut off. that should make a difference. that way the battery gets all the wattage to fully top it up before it gets shut down .



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_if_muk2ok

I ride year round to but its warmer here .
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PPCLI-Jim screwed with this post 01-05-2013 at 09:25 AM
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:51 AM   #72514
shu
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 980
Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
holy hell, my DR is parked in the garage waiting for 50 degree days.
you're a trooper. it was 40 today in FC.

Yeah, I have Hippo Hands, 3 layers of gloves, electric vest and lots of layers top and bottom. I stay pretty comfortable down into the 20's; below that my rides are usually no more than an hour before I look for some hot coffee.

i'd leave that card board on till it goes above 50 and ride away.
I think that's what I'll do. I'll probably arrange it so it blocks even more air below 30*.

thanks.......shu
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:10 AM   #72515
shu
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 980
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
By the 20's I beg for mercy! My biggest worry is black ice. I've only hit it once ... made it through ... barely.

That's the beauty of Colorado riding. The humidity is so low we rarely have any black ice forming. We have to watch out for shady spots where the previous days snow melt froze overnight, but usually once the roads are melted off and dry they're good to ride no matter how cold.

Would going richer on jetting help here? Maybe go rich on needle clip and turn out fuel-air screw? Or leave enricher (choke) on?

I thought about that. Cold air = denser, more oxygen per unit volume? so more oxygen with the same amount of fuel metered through the carb = leaner mixture? Do I have that right?

I thought about putting my choke back on but with 3 layers of gloves I couldn't find the carb mounted choke under my IMS tank- and I wasn't going to stop and pull off my gloves to find it either.

Don't know much regards covering the oil cooler but I doubt any damage would be done if you left it covered ... even into the 60's. The engine is still AIR COOLED and the fins do a lot of cooling regardless of the cooler.

I like you're idea of a good warm up when it's super cold. Let those parts warm up before putting a load on them. Syn oil is the way. Perfect for the cold. 10-40 should be OK.

Coldest I've ever ridden in (on motorcycles) is 10F. Nearly died! I had to get from N. Utah down through North rim of Grand Canyon, then South from there were it finally warmed up a bit. I was FROZEN solid.

That's a long ride at those temps. A lot different from just going across town. I did a similar ride when I bought my F800 ST (BMW) in Salt Lake City a few years ago. It was the beginning of December and I rode it home to Denver. Parts of that ride I was in survival mode, continuously wiggling fingers and toes and moving around on the seat.

Of course I rode snow mobiles in the Antarctic at minus 40F! Hardest part?
getting the fricken thing started! That was our record cold for the Winter in that part of the Banana belt of the Antarctic.
.............shu
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:14 AM   #72516
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,415
Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooDaddy View Post
To each his own, and I realize not everyone has mechanical abilities, experience, tools, or a place to work on their bikes, but I would never buy a new Japanese bike simply for a warranty.



Arent we pretentious.
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:23 AM   #72517
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 6,942
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
Hi guys,

I need help. My DR has been slow to start up. It usually starts on the 1st or 2nd crank, and now it takes 10+ cranks, and once the engine gets going it starts from a whimper and takes some time before it starts to rev at the normal ilde speed.

Here are the circumstances:

-Recently I changed to a Shorai Lithium battery.
-I swapped the old standard spark plugs for a set of Iridium CR10EIX plugs.
-I store the bike outside.
-It has been cold lately; yesterday the high was 43F and the low was 34F, and there was light rain.
-I have been using Startron Enzyme fuel treatment.
-The engine starts almost instantly after the bike has been warmed up.
-It seems as though there is a lot of white vapor coming out of the exhaust on startup, and it dissapears after I have been riding for a while ( this was yesterday, so it might have been the cold and high humidity).
-It may just be my imagination, but the exhaust has a weird smell to it now- almost like burnt rubber/plastic.
-I adjusted the valves not too long ago (2-3k mi. back), and I did it by the book.
-Sometimes I run the hand warmers and the high beam (brighter bulb) at the same time.

Thats about all I can think of.

Also:
-The time for an oil change and air filter clean is due soon. (Mostly street riding)
What jetting do you have? Is your choke (enrichener) working properly? Do you let your battery warm up?
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:35 AM   #72518
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 6,942
Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I found the DR with the cardboard wind blocker in place would run ok at mid rpms but it never really warmed up at all and when I pulled away from stop signs, etc. I really had to give it a lot of gas and slip the clutch to keep it running.
What THROTTLE POSITION was the issue at? You may want to enrich your jetting a little. Adjust your idle-mix screw, and tinker with your enrichener (choke). In colder weather, the air is more dense, so the bike runs lean if you don't adjust the fuel side of things to richen it up. My carbed bikes start fine in cooler weather, but they stay on the "choke" longer.

Quote:
Questions:

1.How bad was that ride for my motor? (Synthetic 10 W 40) Shouldn't be bad at all. That's not really that cold for an engine.

2. Is this cold running problem typical for a carbureted motor? No. It's typical for a motor with incorrect air:fuel ratio and/or weak spark.

3. Should I velcro the cardboard directly touching the oil radiator itself instead of leaving the air space between the guard and the radiator open? Can you do that easily without any chance of damaging fins on the cooler? Bypass the cooler completely, if you like.

4. As the day warms up, at what temp do you think I should be wary of using anything to block the cooler? The bike will run fine on a hot summer day with the oil-cooler bypassed. I wouldn't worry about it.

5. How would I know if the bike was overheating due to blocking off the cooler? You would be courting heatstroke, or something else would be wrong with the bike. The oil-cooler on these bikes is a protective redundancy for when slogging along on slow trails or in slow traffic, in the dead heat of the summer. In most other conditions, the bike runs fine without it, and it may even run fine for quite some time in the above-mentioned conditions. It has enough air-cooling capacity to run as a strictly air-cooled bike. It isn't like a liquid-cooled vehicle that NEEDS a radiator to not overheat.

Kommando screwed with this post 01-05-2013 at 10:42 AM
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:46 AM   #72519
shu
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 980
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
Hi guys,

I need help. My DR has been slow to start up. It usually starts on the 1st or 2nd crank, and now it takes 10+ cranks, and once the engine gets going it starts from a whimper and takes some time before it starts to rev at the normal ilde speed.


This sounds normal to me for 30* cold start ups. My bike lives outside under a cover. I usually put it into 4th gear and push it 3 or 4 engine revolutions to loosen the clutch plates before I crank it. Then gas on, choke on, put it back in neutral and crank it 3-4 seconds with no throttle. I don't expect it start up at that point. Shut offf the key, wait 5-10 seconds, and crank it again usually same results. Shut off the key, wait again, and this time I'm ready on the throttle with just a little twisting to keep it going when it catches. It's not too tricky, really.

At first the bike will idle slowly but will keep running. After a minute or two the idle will come up.



-It seems as though there is a lot of white vapor coming out of the exhaust on startup, and it dissapears after I have been riding for a while ( this was yesterday, so it might have been the cold and high humidity).

-It may just be my imagination, but the exhaust has a weird smell to it now- almost like burnt rubber/plastic.

I get the vapor as well. Not so much when it first starts but after a couple of minutes of running on the 'choke'. The smell I get is more unburned gasoline from the rich mixture when it's on the enrichener. It goes away when I start riding.

-Sometimes I run the hand warmers and the high beam (brighter bulb) at the same time.

Shouldn't be a problem. I run High beam and an electric vest all the time when it's cold. I do keep the bike on a Battery Tender Jr. when I park it.





................shu
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:50 AM   #72520
doug s.
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Joined: May 2011
Location: md
Oddometer: 1,270
oil cooler t-stats

thermostats:
http://shop.perma-cool.com/Oil-Thermostats_c10.htm

https://www.denniskirk.com/496595.sk...utm_medium=cse

http://translate.google.com/translat...zubehoer-2.php

http://www.batinc.net/thermos.htm

manual bypass:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ass-Valve.aspx

doug s.
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:49 AM   #72521
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
You mean -40C also
You are correct! Not many in the USA know that F and C cross over at minus 40 ... and are the SAME! I learned about this when down there ... as part of our duties was to monitor and maintain several weather boxes at the station.
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:00 PM   #72522
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
As part of our duties was to monitor and maintain several weather boxes at the station.
That wouldn't take long.
"Still fcukin cold?"
"Yep"

"Beer?"
"Yep"
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:04 PM   #72523
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
Hi guys,

I need help. My DR has been slow to start up. It usually starts on the 1st or 2nd crank, and now it takes 10+ cranks, and once the engine gets going it starts from a whimper and takes some time before it starts to rev at the normal ilde speed.

Here are the circumstances:

-Recently I changed to a Shorai Lithium battery.
-I swapped the old standard spark plugs for a set of Iridium CR10EIX plugs.
-I store the bike outside.
-It has been cold lately; yesterday the high was 43F and the low was 34F, and there was light rain.
-I have been using Startron Enzyme fuel treatment.
-The engine starts almost instantly after the bike has been warmed up.
-It seems as though there is a lot of white vapor coming out of the exhaust on startup, and it dissapears after I have been riding for a while ( this was yesterday, so it might have been the cold and high humidity).
-It may just be my imagination, but the exhaust has a weird smell to it now- almost like burnt rubber/plastic.
-I adjusted the valves not too long ago (2-3k mi. back), and I did it by the book.
-Sometimes I run the hand warmers and the high beam (brighter bulb) at the same time.

Thats about all I can think of.

Also:
-The time for an oil change and air filter clean is due soon. (Mostly street riding)
This is all pretty normal for a BIG single in cold weather. The white vapor is 100% normal. The weird smell is the fuel treatment product. No worries.

This is what I would do:
1. Adjust Fuel/Air Pilot screw OUT (rich) about 1 turn
2. Turn up Idle (one full turn on idle adjuster) Lower idle once fully warm.
3. Try to store bike indoors if possible.
4. Use 0-40 synthetic oil if possible.
5. Shorai batts need to "warm up" ... so turn on headlight for two minutes before attempting to start bike. Seems counter intuitive but supposedly works.
6. You could take a 1500 Watt hair dryer and run it onto the Carb for 5 minutes before start up. (if that's practical). Carbs like HEAT!
7. If not already done ... cover your bike!
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:14 PM   #72524
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 6,942
Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
That wouldn't take long.
"Still fcukin cold?"
"Yep"

"Beer?"
"Yep"
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Old 01-05-2013, 12:24 PM   #72525
sunthechip
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Joined: May 2012
Oddometer: 94
Im not sure about the jetting. I don't know how to tell. The choke is working properly, and no, I haven't been warming up the battery.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
What jetting do you have? Is your choke (enrichener) working properly? Do you let your battery warm up?
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