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Old 01-10-2013, 11:28 AM   #72706
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
After a year of ownership, I'm finally starting to put some more miles on my DR650. It's an '07 that had a jet kit and airbox cutout by the PO, with stock exhaust. It seems to run fine, but on the freeway drones needed to get to the fun stuff around here, the intake noise really bothers me. Yes, I do wear earplugs but after 40 years of riding I hate loud bikes. Before I start covering up the opening, any other suggestions? Is it mostly the lack of snorkel, or the increased area that causes the noise? I looked around on EBay and couldn't find a stock snorkel though I would assume there are lots of them lying around unused. I was also thinking of fabbing a new snorkel to fit the larger opening but pointing back ....

Thanks - dman
If the Air Box top has been cut out per Jesse template ... then it's too late to go back to the snorkel. To do that ... you'll need a new Air Box.
But it's easy to fab up a plastic piece to cover all or part of the opening ... this may deaden some of the intake honk.

But it's be a shame as this will have a negative affect on power overall and throttle response.
Funny, the intake honk on my bike (open air box top) does not bother me at all. I hardly notice it. Maybe it's my Corbin seat muffling some of that intake HONK?

Good ear plugs ... properly inserted ... really make all the difference. Try Howard Leight Laser Light plugs. Excellent! Comfortable with great attenuation. Buy them 200 pair per box. About $25. If you cover the air box back up you may have to re jet (main jet) and adjust needle clip position. Also fuel screw and idle will need adjusting too.

Being in Santa Cruz you have some of the coolest roads in all of California right out your back door. For Dual Sport riding ... head South to Los Padres Nat. Forest. Lots of cool dirt roads above Big Sur and further South and East.
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:33 AM   #72707
DockingPilot
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Enough Voltage ?

Replaced the taillight bulb with a LED (thanks for the tips fellas), and now with high beam on, Gerbing jacket liner and gloves on full, average rpm running, my 476 GPS is showing me 12.2 volts coming to it. Never dropped below that unless at idle.

Under this condition, is that enough not to kill the battery and be considered sufficient ?

14. something volts with the heated gear off.
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:40 AM   #72708
dman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Being in Santa Cruz you have some of the coolest roads in all of California right out your back door. For Dual Sport riding ... head South to Los Padres Nat. Forest. Lots of cool dirt roads above Big Sur and further South and East.
The freeway return from this ride on Monday really had me noticing the intake noise.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=854219

But I'll try some other earplugs ... thanks for the tip. At this point I'd rather put up with noise than rejet or lose power, but I'll start playing around with some duct tape and see if anything works.

-dman
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:46 AM   #72709
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Replaced the taillight bulb with a LED (thanks for the tips fellas), and now with high beam on, Gerbing jacket liner and gloves on full, average rpm running, my 476 GPS is showing me 12.2 volts coming to it. Never dropped below that unless at idle.

Under this condition, is that enough not to kill the battery and be considered sufficient ?

14. something volts with the heated gear off.
I'd call that about normal. I'm guessing your Gerbing and Gloves add up to about 100 Watts ... GPS is near nil, but you've still got to run headlight, tail, signals, CDI et al. So you're on the edge of being in deficit. On my bike ... with all the same stuff on ... my Batt went dead after about four hours.

Few things to do:
1. HID headlight (saves 20 Watts, triples brightness)

2. In City/Town riding, turn off accessories and lay off brake light and signals as much as is safe/practical.

3. With Day Time riding you may consider turning off headlight (saves 55 Watts) This allows you to run Gerbing on HI for COLD day time riding.
The Gerbing will put out more heat when it's got enough juice! Otherwise they only get luke warm.

~~~~~~~~~~~
A question for you ... our SF Bay Pilot just cracked up a cargo boat into the Bay Bridge. (no idea why) But they said he's paid $435,000 a year !!!!
Can that be right? If so ... man, once again, I'm in the wrong business!!
Are you guys really paid that sort of coin?
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:04 PM   #72710
DockingPilot
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Thanks Patrick,
yea, I just wanted to test the max load and see if I was still ok. I knew it was on the cusp, but wasn't which side of that cusp I was on at 12.2 volts indicated.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:10 PM   #72711
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
But, the end can be re-honed. Chances are it is on the small size and anyone who actually does rods wouldn't think twice about puting .0002-.0003" more clearance on the pin. And it will not hurt the life of the rod. It is a common and proven practice.
The rod honing machines I have seen would not be able to hold the rod properly with the crankshaft assembled. If it has to come apart anyway there's no reason to hone a galled rod, just put in a new rod, bearing and crankpin.
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DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:15 PM   #72712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
Once again wrong. MOST modern cars have bronze bushing rods now: Chevy LS motors, Ford Modular motors, Honda motors to name a few...
And in motorcycles the gsxrs, and busas.
Well, we're talking about motorcycles here.
Sure, there are some exceptions like the 'Busa but it is more common for modern motorcycle engines to have no bushings in the small end of the rod.
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www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:05 PM   #72713
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathu View Post
Wouldn't detonation leave other visible traces/marks as well?
One of the first places detonation will make itself known is at the wrist pin (unless it's been DLC coated), but there may also be cylinder wall scuffing on the exhaust side of the bore.
Quote:
Also I don't know, what could possibly cause detonation in such a low compression engine?
Combination of carbon build up, lean mixtures and/or low octane (batch of bad gas).

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:15 PM   #72714
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Combination of carbon build up, lean mixtures and/or low octane (batch of bad gas).
+1
And burning oil will lower the effective octane of the fuel.

Detonation isn't that unusual in the DR. When mine was new and still all stock it would detonate at lower RPM under light throttle. For example running a steady 45 mph in 5th gear I could hear faint detonation rattle.
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www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:55 PM   #72715
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
And burning oil will lower the effective octane of the fuel.
The significance of this cannot be overstated.
Quote:
When mine was new and still all stock it would detonate at lower RPM under light throttle. For example running a steady 45 mph in 5th gear I could hear faint detonation rattle.
If you can hear it, it's pretty bad. It is also possible that the ignition curve is too aggressive in this area.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:00 PM   #72716
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
The manual's not much help on this one, at least it seems more to describe the whole swing arm / linkage/ shock removal. It looks to me like I'd be removing the rear tire, and the air box and then just the top and bottom shock bolt, Is that correct or is there more to it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by vfr870 View Post
No need to remove the rear tire. Lift bike, remove the air box & rubber intake, pull shock from top.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
Of course, gotta remove the seat too, but otherwise he's right. I just did this for the first time last week. Took about 20 minutes or less!
Remove the seat and muffler. Now support the wheel, drop the dogbones and undo the bolt from the bottom of the shock. Now remove the top shock bolt and the shock will come out the right hand side through the frame. On some bikes, I have had to loosen the header, but it doesn't need to be removed. You may also need to raise and lower the swingarm a bit to make some space, for which a second pair of hands is useful. 10 mins max.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:45 PM   #72717
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Remove the seat and muffler. Now support the wheel, drop the dogbones and undo the bolt from the bottom of the shock. Now remove the top shock bolt and the shock will come out the right hand side through the frame. On some bikes, I have had to loosen the header, but it doesn't need to be removed. You may also need to raise and lower the swingarm a bit to make some space, for which a second pair of hands is useful. 10 mins max.
Huh...! I have always removed the airbox. Never considered that the shock might come out the side...
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:29 PM   #72718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I'd call that about normal. I'm guessing your Gerbing and Gloves add up to about 100 Watts ... GPS is near nil, but you've still got to run headlight, tail, signals, CDI et al. So you're on the edge of being in deficit. On my bike ... with all the same stuff on ... my Batt went dead after about four hours.

Few things to do:
1. HID headlight (saves 20 Watts, triples brightness)

2. In City/Town riding, turn off accessories and lay off brake light and signals as much as is safe/practical.

3. With Day Time riding you may consider turning off headlight (saves 55 Watts) This allows you to run Gerbing on HI for COLD day time riding.
The Gerbing will put out more heat when it's got enough juice! Otherwise they only get luke warm.

~~~~~~~~~~~
A question for you ... our SF Bay Pilot just cracked up a cargo boat into the Bay Bridge. (no idea why) But they said he's paid $435,000 a year !!!!
Can that be right? If so ... man, once again, I'm in the wrong business!!
Are you guys really paid that sort of coin?

As a former coastie in the Bay Area (VTS,MSO) many moons ago I suspect they make good money. The money is well earned from what I've seen (ladders, waves, rain, dark, sharks etc.)

The currents in that body of water are powerful. Hard to explain to a landlubber (no offense meant) but if the ship lost propulsion at an inopportune moment it's toast. Immediately. I have no idea what happened obviously. Also curious..
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:39 PM   #72719
Carl Childers
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Sorry More Shock Stuff!

Thank you both for the removal tips. Now the confusion is just what the hell to do with the shock its self. I know there is a lot of good information and parts and rebuilders out there but I keep coming back to this bit of nagging information that still has me wondering what direction to take. Forgive me if this is a little long but it's important.

First my stock shock is on its standard settings. It's always been harsh riding and I spend more time on the pegs because of it. I have read here many times that the spring is too soft, poor damping etc. This past summer I did a 1.000 mile off road trip loaded down with camping gear tools and spares along with all my riding gear, I weigh about 195 in my skivies. HERE'S THE THING: on that trip through jeep tails, rutted single track and boulder fields the rear shock never felt that good before or since! I'm not Rodger DeCoster but I'm not all that bad of an off road rider, I'll always challenge myself on every ride loaded up with gear or not so riding style wasn't altered .

OK.........that's the background........I can't understand why the shock would be better not worse with that kind of load if it's supposed to be a mushy pogo stick to begin with.

I'd actually be happy with a shock that peformed like my overloaded stocker, it soaked up everything without transfering harsh jolts to me sitting or standing.

Thanks in advance to everyone who has had the patience to read this and offer up advice.

Carl Childers screwed with this post 01-10-2013 at 06:48 PM
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:08 PM   #72720
DockingPilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
~~~~~~~~~~~
A question for you ... our SF Bay Pilot just cracked up a cargo boat into the Bay Bridge. (no idea why) But they said he's paid $435,000 a year !!!!
Can that be right? If so ... man, once again, I'm in the wrong business!!
Are you guys really paid that sort of coin?
Missed that part of yor post.

You think thats a lot, you should see what the Miss River Pilots in Louisiana make. They were getting near $7 annualy and were looking to raise their rates until they came onto the radar screen of the State Board of Commissioners.

There is a lot of liability. A 1'000 oil tanker coming into port with just 2' under keel clearance in a 600' wide channel passing other outbound ships with max current at 0300 is a Little stressful . Its not like if we screw up we just pull the nail out and start again. We are criminally prosecuted and hit the national news like the San Fran Bay Pilot was. And that was nothing. Those fellas continuously work in restricted visibility. Thats gotta suck with your face in a radar screen every time you move a ship.
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