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Old 01-11-2013, 09:04 PM   #72781
VooDooDaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
I don't think I'm the only DR plus Duc rider here ...
Nope,...here are mine:



and

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Old 01-12-2013, 07:49 AM   #72782
bradrh
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oil temps

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
A few days ago the conversation was about getting the DR up to operating temps in cooler weather. I got a break in the schedule and a 50* plus day and got these numbers.

Air temp was 52-54*, digital thermo on the handlebars.

For the first 65 miles I had the oil cooler closed off with a piece of cardboard, that thin 2 ply cereal box stuff. Who cares? It was the perfect thickness for sliding behind the mounting screws, no zip ties needed. In answer to an earlier question: This put the cardboard snug to the fins and pretty much stopped all airflow thru the cooler. I'd be completely comfortable with the air flow completely blocked up to 60* ambient, especially running full synthetic. Kommando has said the oil cooler is redundant in any sane riding temps.

Oil temp ran between 205-215 degrees with the usual 10-20* increase when hitting consecutive stop lights. But almost all of the mileage was non-stop county roads 20-55mph.

At 65 miles it occurred to me that without removing the cardboard, I'd have no useful information. So I rode the last 40 miles, cardboard out. Same roads, temps 175-195* and the same 10-20* increase when forced to stop repeatedly.

205 warning:
It's my belief that condensation doesn't burn out of the oil and crankcase unless the oil temp hits boiling (212* at sea level, closer to 200* here in Denver). Then the water turns to steam and cooks out of the oil. So I would be blocking the oil cooler at temps under 60*. Now that I've thought thru this, I'll try running the blocked cooler at higher temps, just to keep the oil warmed up.

It's 3-7/8" wide, 9-5/8" tall, not including the tab on top. Next time I'll be more cool and turn it around so you guys can't see what I eat for breakfast.
Where do you have your temp sensor mounted? Close to where the oil comes out of the engine, or downstream from the oil cooler?
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:58 AM   #72783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckaroo Banzai View Post
I have someone that wants to buy a set of wheels I had.
Does anyone know of a good way to ship the wheels. UPS will ship them unboxed but not to a PO box.
The post office will ship them but they have to be boxed up. I'm having a hard time finding a box to put the wheels in.
I can't send them cod because of the currency difference I'm told.
Can anyone give some insight with this.

Maybe ProCycle can help

Thanks Charlie
Go to a bicycle shop and pick up (for free) a box or two used to ship new bicycles. You can cut down and even slip one box over another. I've used this technique to ship bicycles to Europe for trips there, so it certainly would protect moto wheels.
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:14 PM   #72784
opium89
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Carb Update

Today I removed the carb and took it apart once more. Looks like the jet are stock size, so that's good to know. No vacuum leaks are detectable. However, the one thing I did find is that something was preventing the butterfly from closing completely. This at least explains the high idle I was experiencing. When I say "something", there was some tiny bits of corrosion where the butterfly attaches to the body of the carb. I also removed the float, pilot and main jets, and sprayed some more carb cleaner followed by some compressed air.

Results of all this is that the idle is noticeably lower, there is a noticeable improvement in the hesitation off idle, but unfortunately it's still present. There is also quite a bit of decel backfiring going on that I can't rid the bike of no matter the position of the fuel screw.

My only thoughts at this point are to perhaps order up a new pilot and main jet, a new needle, try dipping this thing in Pine-Sol overnight and check it again. The parts are cheap enough to replace, I figure it's worth a shot. If anyone has any better ideas, I'd love to hear them.
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:48 PM   #72785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
If anyone has any better ideas, I'd love to hear them.
Before ordering any parts, I would determine whether the hesitation happens at 1/16, 1/8 or 1/4 opening.

How many miles are there on the carburetor?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:11 PM   #72786
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post

Results of all this is that the idle is noticeably lower, there is a noticeable improvement in the hesitation off idle, but unfortunately it's still present. There is also quite a bit of decel backfiring going on that I can't rid the bike of no matter the position of the fuel screw.

My only thoughts at this point are to perhaps order up a new pilot and main jet, a new needle, try dipping this thing in Pine-Sol overnight and check it again. The parts are cheap enough to replace, I figure it's worth a shot. If anyone has any better ideas, I'd love to hear them.
I found my DR did not like a rich idle and would have a hesitation just off idle- pulling off from a dead stop. Gave the idle screw a 1/4 turn in (leaner) and it was much better.

A vaccum leak can cause a high idle. Do you run a stock tank with the vaccuum petcock or do you have that port plugged. I have to replace the plug on mine about once a year due to cracking. They don't make those damn things out of anything good anymore.

And what is a high idle to you? Do you have an RPM guage of some type? I run mine around 1600 rpm idle just because I don't like hearing the engine labor at idle. I think stock is around 1500.

I'm with Motolab- I wouldn't just start throwing parts at it. Things like Main jets don't wear out. I wouldn't replace it unless someone has drilled it, gouged it up or you need a diffrent size. And things like the stock needle do wear, but if your problem isn't in the 1/8-1/4 throttle and more area I doubt the needle is the problem.

As for poping in decel.; mine did it from day 1 brand new. After carb and exhaust mods it still does it. Only thing that I found that lessens it is to have the idle higher. If you find a way to get rid of it completely let me know!
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:23 PM   #72787
SingleTrackJeff
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GPR sterring stablizer question

GPR question

I just revived a V1 GPR from E bay

They don't make a mount for my DR 650, it looks like the pivot arm should be centered on the triple clamp stem.
I know it centers left and right but when centered fro and aft it doesn't leave a lot of room for the fixed arm to clear.
The only thing I could find at GPR says the fixed pin should be in the middle of the slot not at the end.
Any help would be great, I am going to need to drill and tap the top of my bar mounts and will only get one chance to get it correct
.

Anyone got any thoughts of wisdom that might help?

Thanks Jeff
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:40 PM   #72788
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I know this is a Scotts, not a GPR, but thought it might help with positioning.







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Old 01-12-2013, 04:01 PM   #72789
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http://www.gprstabilizer.com/files/G...ke_Install.pdf

I'm guessing you saw this..... I don't know that fore and aft is important except to correctly position the pin in the slot. The PO on my son's bike - pictured - seems to have used a plate to mount the Scotts on there. May be a consideration?

Another link I had stored that may help http://www.scottsperformance.com/litrack/219.pdf
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Old 01-12-2013, 04:02 PM   #72790
acesandeights
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Procycle Shock Shaft Assemly and Spring Issue

Just an FYI to those that might purchase the shock shaft assembly from Procycle. I purchased the shock shaft assembly and spring from Procycle and I just got a call from the suspension guy working on my bike letting me know the stock spring collar won't fit.

When I asked Procycle via email about buying the front fork solution kit and rear shaft assembly I was advised the only other thing I'd need to purchase is one bottle of shock oil. Well, looks like I also would need a new spring adapter collar. Bike is apart and both Procycle and Race Tech are closed :-(

So, if you're going to order, double check that it comes with an adapter collar or if you need to order one separately.
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Old 01-12-2013, 04:14 PM   #72791
DRT
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Sprocket carrier to axle fit

The place where the sprocket carrier makes physical contact with the axle seems to have a rather large tolerance.
The bearing is in perfect shape, then the spacer/adaptor thing fits snugly into the bearing. But then the spacer/adaptor peice doesnt seem to fit snugly on the axle. Has anyone else noticed this on their bike?
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Old 01-12-2013, 04:35 PM   #72792
opium89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Before ordering any parts, I would determine whether the hesitation happens at 1/16, 1/8 or 1/4 opening.

How many miles are there on the carburetor?

Regards,

Derek
It's at 1/16 - 1/8 open. By 1/4 open, the bike is well in to acceleration and is pretty smooth from there on. The bike itself only has about 6000 miles on it, but it's sat for much of it's lifetime. As previously stated, I acquired it with a grenaded case and have since replaced the bottom end. The carb was pretty gummed it from sitting for so long, but it's not known exactly how long that actually was. The worst of it was found in the float bowl where the main jet resides, and the brass fitting that resides in the plastic float itself was completely clogged. Took me a few tries to get that open.
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:13 PM   #72793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
Just an FYI to those that might purchase the shock shaft assembly from Procycle. I purchased the shock shaft assembly and spring from Procycle and I just got a call from the suspension guy working on my bike letting me know the stock spring collar won't fit.

When I asked Procycle via email about buying the front fork solution kit and rear shaft assembly I was advised the only other thing I'd need to purchase is one bottle of shock oil. Well, looks like I also would need a new spring adapter collar. Bike is apart and both Procycle and Race Tech are closed :-(

So, if you're going to order, double check that it comes with an adapter collar or if you need to order one separately.
Aces - some of those kits shipped from Race Tech missing the spring seat. Give our sales dept a call on Monday morning. Talk to Drum or Matt, they are both familiar with the missing spring seat problem.
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:59 PM   #72794
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
It's at 1/16 - 1/8 open. By 1/4 open, the bike is well in to acceleration and is pretty smooth from there on.
Float height misadjustments, clogs and parts wear aside, that would point to the pilot jet. Does the problem improve or get worse when the cold start enrichment circuit is activated? How about as the engine warms up?
Quote:
The bike itself only has about 6000 miles on it, but it's sat for much of it's lifetime.
How deep are the indentations in the corners of the slide guide, concentric to the bore, adjacent to where the slide bottoms?

Regards,

Derek

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Old 01-12-2013, 06:07 PM   #72795
SingleTrackJeff
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Thanks for the help TrophyHunter I think the Scotts is smaller than the GPR by a good 20-30 mm in width mine will have to go on top of the bars as shown I know crappy pics will show finished job later.


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