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Old 01-14-2013, 05:02 PM   #72871
DockingPilot
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Andover, N.J.
Oddometer: 8,998
The suspension on my F800 was utter garbage. The forks being the worst. Both shock and fork internals were thrown in the trash. Had to spend some bucks to replace them with decent suspenders it should have come with. No chain guide either was a clue to the cost cutting by BMW. I can tell you the DR suspension as low end as it is, is still better then the stock F800. And the top shock mount on the F8 is another eye opener.
Ill keep the DR myself.
The GSA is all together different. Better build quality and components then the smaller cousin.
This is just my opinion though but I have owned them all.


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DockingPilot screwed with this post 01-15-2013 at 04:54 AM
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:41 PM   #72872
CDHMotorsports
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Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Seymour,TN.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDHMotorsports View Post
Hey guys, I just got my 01 DR650 about 12 weeks aga and everything is great with it except on a couple of rides we have stopped for a few minutes and the bike wont start. I can roll it off and it will pop-start though. any ideas? Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
You'll have to give us some more info. Cranks fine but won't start? Cranks slow? Button does nothing? Backfires?

it cranks, but doesnt fire. it will not start unless you let it sit for a while and or, pop start it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:03 PM   #72873
RichBeBe
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NYC
Oddometer: 6,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by cberard View Post
This a quote from the "Short way around the world"
http://shortwayround.co.uk/suzuki/

Wondering if anyone has given this a try?

Headlight Not riding at night is one of the golden rules of overland travel by motorcycle and I avoid it most of the time. There have been occasions though where I’ve been caught out and where I would really have benefitted from better lighting. However, as these times are few and far between I didn’t want to spend any money on expensive additional/replacement lights. The solution (though I’ll have to wait to prove it) seems to have come simply and cheaply in the form of a simple relay circuit and a better bulb. The theory: The stock headlight circuit uses small gauge wire connected through the switch to supply the headlight. This modification uses the OEM wiring to switch one of two relays (1 High beam, 1 Low) which in turn connect the headlight direct to the battery via larger gauge wires and an inline fuse. This system reduces the voltage drop to 0.1v; a drop of 1.0v can equate to a 25% reduction in the headlights ‘output. I also added a Phillips X-Treme headlight bulb of the OEM rating 60/55w.
I had a short in my wire harness, and instead of fixing it I ran this setup and the lights are much brighter.
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:29 AM   #72874
Tyrepower
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Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Perth WA
Oddometer: 107
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDHMotorsports View Post
it cranks, but doesnt fire. it will not start unless you let it sit for a while and or, pop start it.
Battery could be on the way out. Get it looked at by someone that knows how to test them. Or try a battery from a friends bike. Same thing happened to a mates bike. We went through everything including the stator and stuff connected to that. And it turned out to be the battery had enough power to crank but not enough to fire.
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Old 01-15-2013, 05:28 AM   #72875
thetable
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Western Loudoun Co, VA
Oddometer: 1,191
Quote:
Originally Posted by cberard View Post
This a quote from the "Short way around the world"
http://shortwayround.co.uk/suzuki/

Wondering if anyone has given this a try?

Headlight Not riding at night is one of the golden rules of overland travel by motorcycle and I avoid it most of the time. There have been occasions though where I’ve been caught out and where I would really have benefitted from better lighting. However, as these times are few and far between I didn’t want to spend any money on expensive additional/replacement lights. The solution (though I’ll have to wait to prove it) seems to have come simply and cheaply in the form of a simple relay circuit and a better bulb. The theory: The stock headlight circuit uses small gauge wire connected through the switch to supply the headlight. This modification uses the OEM wiring to switch one of two relays (1 High beam, 1 Low) which in turn connect the headlight direct to the battery via larger gauge wires and an inline fuse. This system reduces the voltage drop to 0.1v; a drop of 1.0v can equate to a 25% reduction in the headlights ‘output. I also added a Phillips X-Treme headlight bulb of the OEM rating 60/55w.
Sounds like it would be a good place to start. I know on my DR, the high beam indicator puts out more light than the high beam itself. I'd also replace the headlight connector itself to a higher grade unit, as I have seen issues in other Suzuki's that I've owned. More food for thought: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:33 AM   #72876
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDHMotorsports View Post
it cranks, but doesnt fire. it will not start unless you let it sit for a while and or, pop start it.
Try laying the bike on it's side for 10 seconds, pick it up and see if it starts. If so, I suspect it is the float assy o-rings. That was my trouble twice in 7 years of owning mine. (so far)

parts 15 & 16:

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID...oup/CARBURETOR
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:40 AM   #72877
Anklyne
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Oddometer: 81
Wicked

Finally got a mid-pipe so I could do the GSXR can mod. Using a x40f1x (Aussie x40f0x) and a mid-pipe made by a bloke over in QLD (AU$175 + shipping - much cheaper for me than the other pre-fabbed options). It's not as smooth of a bend and such as the other options, but considering I haven't done any mods to the intake and probably won't do more than remove the snorkel (yes, the snorkel is still in there atm), it's not going to be an issue

Just have a quick prototype/unfinished bracket currently because I was eager to mount it all up and test it out. I need to do some tweaking of fasteners to make sure it's all honky-dory, but from the quick ride I did earlier tonight, it's going great.

Previously the bike seemed to labour when giving it throttle while cruising, which I had just put down to the BST carb. I need to do some more riding to make sure (), but I'm pretty sure that is now gone with the new exhaust.

Anyway, some photos:


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Old 01-15-2013, 07:44 AM   #72878
Rob.G
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
Oddometer: 2,050
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anklyne View Post
Finally got a mid-pipe so I could do the GSXR can mod. Using a x40f1x (Aussie x40f0x) and a mid-pipe made by a bloke over in QLD (AU$175 + shipping - much cheaper for me than the other pre-fabbed options). It's not as smooth of a bend and such as the other options, but considering I haven't done any mods to the intake and probably won't do more than remove the snorkel (yes, the snorkel is still in there atm), it's not going to be an issue

Just have a quick prototype/unfinished bracket currently because I was eager to mount it all up and test it out. I need to do some tweaking of fasteners to make sure it's all honky-dory, but from the quick ride I did earlier tonight, it's going great.

Previously the bike seemed to labour when giving it throttle while cruising, which I had just put down to the BST carb. I need to do some more riding to make sure (), but I'm pretty sure that is now gone with the new exhaust.

That pipe looks great!! I don't see any problem with it over the expensive pre-fabbed options!!

Rob
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Old 01-15-2013, 08:13 AM   #72879
blackcap
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
Oddometer: 524
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Very well done Video!
Is that your work? Or from another source? And of course I have to ask ...
do you know what Camera was used? Great image quality throughout!
Some Hellish mud there mate and some knarly tracks for the DR650.
Good going.
yeah all original from me in the past 12 months or so. still learning a lot about movies. the on bike camer is a VIO POV HD, the roadside is mostly a Canon EOS 5D and then there is a couple of shots from some point and shoot cameras (theres been a couple now after a sacrifice had to be made to the gods of soul capturing devices). all the tracks so far in the movie have been pretty easy with a couple of tough sections. the good mud will be in the next installment if i ever get round to finishing it.
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:19 AM   #72880
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anklyne View Post
Previously the bike seemed to labour when giving it throttle while cruising, which I had just put down to the BST carb.
It is likely to either be dirty, have worn out/damaged parts, or was/is just not jetted correctly.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:21 AM   #72881
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Try laying the bike on it's side for 10 seconds, pick it up and see if it starts. If so, I suspect it is the float assy o-rings. That was my trouble twice in 7 years of owning mine. (so far)

parts 15 & 16:

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID...oup/CARBURETOR
Do you still have the vacuum operated petcock in place?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:40 AM   #72882
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Do you still have the vacuum operated petcock in place?

Regards,

Derek
Raptor Petcock on my bike
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:02 AM   #72883
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Raptor Petcock on my bike
During the laying the bike on its side procedure, do you turn the petcock off?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:59 AM   #72884
neo1piv014
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Oddometer: 619
Searching this thread for "clip position" didn't seem to yield anything on the first several pages, so I thought I'd ask.
I just got the non-USA OEM needle and clip for my carb after having a bent needle from the PO, and I'm not sure what clip position to use. So here's the basic run down of my bike:
- Lives around 5000 ft above sea level
- Airbox mod
- Stock exhaust
- K&N air filter
- 12000 miles (for whatever that matters).

Anyone else running a similar setup that can tell me what clip position and possibly jet size that I should be using? I'm not a tuner in any way, and I don't have access to a professionally setup DR650, so I'm not sure what all I should be looking for.
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:22 AM   #72885
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Searching this thread for "clip position" didn't seem to yield anything on the first several pages, so I thought I'd ask.
I just got the non-USA OEM needle and clip for my carb after having a bent needle from the PO, and I'm not sure what clip position to use. So here's the basic run down of my bike:
- Lives around 5000 ft above sea level
- Airbox mod
- Stock exhaust
- K&N air filter
- 12000 miles (for whatever that matters).

Anyone else running a similar setup that can tell me what clip position and possibly jet size that I should be using? I'm not a tuner in any way, and I don't have access to a professionally setup DR650, so I'm not sure what all I should be looking for.
The standard clip position is in the 3rd groove.

Correspondences on CV carbs:

Low rpm all throttle positions: float height, needle base diameter, emulsion tube outlet size
WOT operation overall: main jet
WOT operation between HP peak and red line: main air corrector
WOT operation below red line: jet needle shape
1/4 throttle opening: jet needle clip position
1/8 throttle opening: pilot jet size
1/16 throttle opening: pilot jet size
idle: mixture screw adjustment

Put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks while riding. If you do, I'm not responsible!

Tune from the top down, i.e. get the right main jet in it for proper wide open throttle operation, then set the needle clip position for correct operation at 1/4 opening, then install the correct pilot jet for proper operation at 1/16-1/8 opening. Readjust the idle mixture after every jetting change. Without the ability to dyno with 5-gas analysis, I would go progressively leaner until there was just the very beginning of a discernible misbehavior. On the main jet, I would then go 2-3 sizes richer. On the needle clip, I would then adjust 1-2 positions richer. On the pilot jet, I would install 1-2 sizes larger. Please do bear in mind that if you have high compression, poor exhaust flow, low octane fuel, and/or ignition timing that is either correct or overadvanced for the correct mixture, tuning via this method could cause detonation and therefore engine damage.

Regards,

Derek
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