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Old 01-19-2013, 11:49 AM   #73021
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
I will have a look at modifying the spring seat rather than the spring length.
The slide spring can be easily shortened without cutting.

Slip the spring on to a 5/16" shaft or dowel (a #3 Philips screwdriver works well). Compress the spring fully and 'unwind' it a few turns. Naturally you want to measure very accurately before and after. If you go too far you can carefully stretch it back and start over.
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:55 AM   #73022
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Alert: Tire Talk!

I'm getting an 18" rear rim. What are the largest tires that will fit in there on an 18? Knobbies in particular - wondering if D606 130 will fit, etc.

Also wondering if anyone has run the Maxxis Desert-IT as a dual sport tire and results?

thanks!
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:58 AM   #73023
Rob.G
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My favorite grips are the ProGrip 719's. They're cheap ($15), gel-style, and are comfy. I have them on all three bikes. In fact, I need to replace the ones on my DR650... they've been on there for two years and are starting to wear out. :)

I have to run to Portland this morning for some RV parts, but while I'm out, I'm going to hit Home Depot or someplace for the pieces to make my Damper Rod Holding Tool and spacers. When I get home, the fork tubes are coming off of the DR and coming apart! Wish me luck! (I'll need it) :)

Freakin' 29F here in Salem, but I'm riding up there anyway (on my FZ1). Thank God for heated gear!

Rob
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:33 PM   #73024
LeDakaR!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoid View Post
How about more pictures?
rr in daytripping, check it out...

if any fellow DR riders want anything, let me know
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Old 01-19-2013, 02:06 PM   #73025
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
Alert: Tire Talk!

I'm getting an 18" rear rim. What are the largest tires that will fit i
Are you getting a 2.15 width, or a 2.50. Makes all the difference.
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Old 01-19-2013, 02:32 PM   #73026
RichBeBe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Fellas,
Can the carb inlet tube on the stock BST be rotated ?
I used a propane torch and moved it. Much easier than taking it off the bike and using a bench vise or something. Heated it up and moved it, real slowly and it worked fine.









































Just kidding
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Old 01-19-2013, 02:55 PM   #73027
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
Shipping may cost a war pension, but Amazon and Phat Performance show them in stock.

Sarah
Won't ship at all
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Old 01-19-2013, 02:57 PM   #73028
NordieBoy
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Location: Kiwiland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Re: grips...

I may have to replace mine eventually when I change bars, but I'm certainly not going for foam grips (that nobody has) when this 'solution' has worked for me on two bikes and many miles so far:

Tightly wound in a spiral, these cushion and leave no noticeable pressure points that had my hands tingling after many miles with traditional grips.

And, they're wider than most grips - I don't even have big hands, but I find this far more comfortable.

Yeah, yeah, I wish I had some other color rope to change it... sorta... but it's what I had on hand from the limited choices Home Depot had that day. (Of course within days they had most colors available again.)

If even only as a stop-gap until you can find foam grips, I think if its comfort you're looking for, you might try this out.
I get annoyed by the dimples on the ProGrip Ralley Grips...
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Old 01-19-2013, 03:12 PM   #73029
DR650SEDDY
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Location: Phoenix,Az
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
I want the ProGrip foam rally grips.

No-one has them
I have something similar on both bike & never use anything else but foam grips.
http://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-170...ords=foam+grip


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Old 01-19-2013, 03:20 PM   #73030
BergDonk
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
While we are talking about heads and valves and pistons, I have a question for the collective wisdom of the group. My '96 DR has 27,000 miles on it. As I was wrapping up a 3 month 8K mile ride this summer, it started smoking on start up after sitting overnight. It will smoke for a few minutes, then the smoke goes away. Blue smoke, definitely oil smoke. It only does it after sitting overnight, if I restart it after fueling or stopping for a few minutes, there's no smoke. It's not using oil that I have noticed and runs normal, not down on power at all. My thoughts are rings or valve seals. I was considering buying the high compression piston kit and new valve seals and redoing the top end anyhow before this started. Am I on the right track? Should I just leave it alone and continue to ride it and save the kit for later?


Tim
Quote:
Originally Posted by LucasLeader View Post
My bike does the same thing. Doesn't burn up a noticeable amount of oil and stops smoking after a minute. It's been doing it a lot less lately too. I think the only problem I have with it is being a little embarrassed when I'm warming up my bike and spitting smoke at people walking by me.
Mine has done this randomly, +/- 1/20, only on cold starts since I got it, maybe only when the ambient temp is 10 C or below. No comsumption. I've assumed stem seals, but dunno, and don't worry about it.
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:17 PM   #73031
3DChief
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I suspected as much. I'll just ride it this season and see how it does. Mine has been really trouble free and I can't complain about a little bit of smoke. I would love an excuse to do the high compression kit or the 725 kit though!

Tim
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:18 PM   #73032
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
Will the increased spring tension caused by the needle shim cause a more sluggish throttle response?
The slide will be lower for a given combination of throttle position and rpm. This will be detrimental if it reduces the flow vs. what the butterfly could pass if there were no slide at all. It will be beneficial if the slide was already open more than it needs to be for a given intersection of throttle position and rpm.

Remember that the needle is attached to the slide, so raising the slide for a given intersection of throttle position and rpm means raising the needle. If the slide were higher than is needed to simply match the butterfly opening, then the mixture would be richened from the needle being out of the emulsion tube further while the airflow was limited by the butterfly.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:47 PM   #73033
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
So...Are you saying to try a non-USA (adjustable) stock needle, an open airbox, an adjustable idle-mix screw, a 150 Mikuni main jet, and a x40F0x muff with a smoothed header, at sea-level? Should the pilot jet remain stock or go a size bigger?
I would use the non-USA adjustable needle with or without the open airbox.

The idle mixture screw is already adjustable. If you mean an extended one, I consider those the optional, depending on how much altitude variation the bike will see.

What pilot and main jet sizes to use will have to be determined.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:51 PM   #73034
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
While we are talking about heads and valves and pistons, I have a question for the collective wisdom of the group. My '96 DR has 27,000 miles on it. As I was wrapping up a 3 month 8K mile ride this summer, it started smoking on start up after sitting overnight. It will smoke for a few minutes, then the smoke goes away. Blue smoke, definitely oil smoke. It only does it after sitting overnight, if I restart it after fueling or stopping for a few minutes, there's no smoke. It's not using oil that I have noticed and runs normal, not down on power at all. My thoughts are rings or valve seals.
That's a valve guide seal problem. It could be that the valve guide clearance is too large, which means new seals wouldn't last very long.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:13 PM   #73035
Midnightventure
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I had a Chevy S-10 pickup that started doing that at about 50000 miles. I sold it with 217000 miles on it and the engine still didn't use a qt between oil changes.
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