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Old 01-22-2013, 11:07 AM   #73111
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
.You could pull the timing back a bit.
Hmm... How would you suggest TinkerinWstuff do that?
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:07 PM   #73112
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Hmm... How would you suggest TinkerinWstuff do that?
Considering your past behavior toward me, I do hesitate to answer.

He can install an offset key, slot the pickup mounting holes & move the pickup, or install a programmable ignition.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:31 PM   #73113
1989THEARK
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Wicked

more light less power?
where do i sign

i have bin throwing back and fourth the idea of just getting the oem battery again.
my bike is an 02. its still the stock battery even AFTER the owner wrecked.
and it barely stopped working a week and a half ago.

thats nearly 10 years of life.

if i can get 4 years out of a battery its a blessing.

10.!!

people should write stories of these magical devices.

but i would like a direct comparison of the DDM's vs the stock headlight.

procycle has a very good comparison of there HID kit.

if its anything like that. i'll hit the take my money button as soon as i see the photo's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
1. get a regular (and cheap) lead acid battery, stay within your budget.
2. Stock tanks are available everywhere ... cheap! Get a new one. So many here take off the stock tank first thing. Check the Flea Market everyday.
3. Lots of other parts can be found here (Flea Market, Parts, search DR650)
4. The cheapest, easiest and most effective headlight solution is the DDM Tuning 35W single bulb HID kit. Plug and play, 3 times more light. $30.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:33 PM   #73114
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where do you live?

The main drawback of the new Li batteries is apparently they die quickly and don't crank when the weather is cold.

I'm in NY and it's 20 right now, so that's not an option for me.

Otherwise I'd love to ditch that fat battery!
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:07 PM   #73115
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switched back to my OEM size wheel and stock gearing for a better perspective on the HC piston. Now the butt-dyno can see more of a difference.

Last fall I switch to a 120/80-18 rear with 46T sprocket for single track. Lucky if I have an hour on that setup so it's tough to gauge things.

On the OEM setup, I'm still not blown away but can see more of the improvement. Runs 80+mph easily and lofts the front wheel in 1st (at 5000ft elevation and with the FCR pumper carb)

Temps are stabilizing a bit but still running 20-40deg hotter on oil temperatures. 55 or so ambient temperatures today and running 60mph highway speeds, the oil coming out of the cooler into the head was running 240. Stop and go in town and it's nothing to see 265+. According to the Vapor.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:17 PM   #73116
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
where do you live?

The main drawback of the new Li batteries is apparently they die quickly and don't crank when the weather is cold.

I'm in NY and it's 20 right now, so that's not an option for me.

Otherwise I'd love to ditch that fat battery!

I have a Ballistic Battery 8-cell in my FZ1 and it's a total PITA in cold weather. I have to leave it on the battery tender all the time in order to start the bike on cold mornings. Otherwise it just runs out of juice trying to get it to fire. The alternative, according to Ballistic, is to turn the key on and let it sit for 5-6 minutes. Sorry, I don't have time for that when it's 26-28 deg. outside. I want the thing fired up and heating my gear.

I'm going to move this battery to my KLX250S, which really doesn't ever get riddin in cold weather, and put a regular battery back in the FZ1. It's already 2x the size recommended for the KLX (and still 5-6 lbs lighter) so it should be fine there.

Rob
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:50 PM   #73117
victor441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989THEARK View Post
I dont want to start a flame war or anything.

but my stock battery in the DR finally gave out.

im the second owner of the bike.

it was wrecked and i have bin taping it back together.

after being crashed having some covers smashed

forks bent

tank crushed

tail of the frame slightly bent.

the bike STILL rides awesome.

i used to ride a ex250.

dont ask me what year becuase i had parts from god knows how many different bikes.

after being crushed on my buddy's ktm950 i realized

i really REALLY "REALLY" !!!

wanted my own dual sport.

though i need to get the hang of dirt riding.

my skills for a lack of a better term. SUCK in dirt.


anyway

back to the problem at hand. i have bin thinking about getting a antigravity battery. i read they are good. last long strong crank. but i haven't got any good answers on wether they can deal with the heat the dr650 puts out.
this is my eco bike if it aint broke i dont fix it. i dont plan on farkeling up the bike. i love its simplicity and its get on and go ability. so no extra lights. at most i will just go to a dual headlight. since i hate the stock headlight output with a passion. its one of the reasons i dont like to ride at night. planning to just drop in a new bulb and see if its an improvement..

dang i keep getting off track.

sorry im a total noob here.

i think this is actually my first post on ADV.

i've gone on DR specific forums and thumpertalk but im hardly ever here.
since this is the axis of evil for DR650's on ADV i figured i'd post here and deal with the onslaught opinions.
I've always had the best results w/ Yuasa batteries, not the cheapest but they are reliable and long lived. So far as the light output goes the first thing to do is add relays with a fused feed direct from the battery, the stock wiring typically drops 2 volts or so which will cut light output nearly in half and a high powered bulb would make the drop even worse. The relays are cheap if you go DIY or you can get a quality kit from http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wi...s/h4_kits.html
I installed relays and a plus bulb in my own bike and the lighting is not bad at all now ....also FWIW the stock reflector and lens are glass and can handle the added heat of an H4 plus or high power off road bulb OK


victor441 screwed with this post 01-22-2013 at 04:58 PM
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:28 PM   #73118
TinkerinWstuff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
If you can hear it, it's bad.You could pull the timing back a bit.Certainly a lean mixture will contribute to the problem, but correcting that (if it's the case) won't likely solve the problem alone (since DR's have been reported to audibly ping/sustain detonation damage with a standard piston).

Regards,

Derek
That is interesting, I haven't heard of pinging on a stock setup. Thought I read up on this one pretty thorough before going forward but didn't see any of those. Did you see that on ADV or somewhere else?

I added some octane boost to get through this tank and it helped. The only time I got pinging was when my oil temps exceeded 270 for a moment.

I did not see anywhere else that people had to adjust timing for the HC piston. So I'm tempted to leave that as a last resort.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:58 PM   #73119
smilin jack
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DR650se shock

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmderyke View Post
Hi guys I have a dr 350 and I am wanting to swap my rear shock spring, since the 650 is still being made figured I might be able to grab a used one from a 650. So can anyone tell me the specs of the 650 rear spring? mine is
11" x 2 1/4" id thanks
Ran out to the garage and measured my 2006 take off springs. Put new heavier springs front and rear a while back.

stock fork springs= 1 3/8inch OD and just under 22inches long
shock spring= 2 1/4inch ID and 10" long

Hope that helps.

Dave
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:27 PM   #73120
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TinkerinWstuff View Post
That is interesting, I haven't heard of pinging on a stock setup. Thought I read up on this one pretty thorough before going forward but didn't see any of those. Did you see that on ADV or somewhere else?
A quick search reveals http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=67419, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...6#post18052596, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...3#post16094853, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...g#post15781952, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=15252, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...n#post20447527, and http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...n#post20440712
Quote:
I added some octane boost to get through this tank and it helped. The only time I got pinging was when my oil temps exceeded 270 for a moment.
As I said, if you can hear it, it's pretty bad. Enough detonation can be present to damage the engine without you ever hearing it.
Quote:
I did not see anywhere else that people had to adjust timing for the HC piston.
See http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...n#post10906911.
Quote:
So I'm tempted to leave that as a last resort.
Increasing exhaust flow would also help.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:28 PM   #73121
jmderyke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smilin jack View Post
Ran out to the garage and measured my 2006 take off springs. Put new heavier springs front and rear a while back.

stock fork springs= 1 3/8inch OD and just under 22inches long
shock spring= 2 1/4inch ID and 10" long

Hope that helps.

Dave
thankyou very much it did help
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:33 PM   #73122
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989THEARK View Post
more light less power?
where do i sign

i have bin throwing back and fourth the idea of just getting the oem battery again.
my bike is an 02. its still the stock battery even AFTER the owner wrecked.
and it barely stopped working a week and a half ago.

thats nearly 10 years of life.

if i can get 4 years out of a battery its a blessing.

10.!!

people should write stories of these magical devices.

but i would like a direct comparison of the DDM's vs the stock headlight.

procycle has a very good comparison of there HID kit.

if its anything like that. i'll hit the take my money button as soon as i see the photo's.
I regularly get 10 years or more out of a battery, especially a quality one. I do it by keeping my bikes plugged into battery tenders anytime they're not being ridden
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:10 PM   #73123
PPCLI-Jim
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I also get about that time out of my batteries by constantly riding my bikes
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:34 PM   #73124
1989THEARK
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I live in southern cali. it doesnt get TOO cold here but lately its bin dropping down into the low 30's which is somewhat rare.

it hasnt bin getting its normal semi warmer weather lately so im worried about the heat of the DR650 killing the battery.

never had to worry about the cold weather.

this bike almost always starts first click of the starter regardless of weather.
or battery condition. the day before the battery took a bing steaming poo. it still started up just fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
where do you live?

The main drawback of the new Li batteries is apparently they die quickly and don't crank when the weather is cold.

I'm in NY and it's 20 right now, so that's not an option for me.

Otherwise I'd love to ditch that fat battery!
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:49 PM   #73125
1989THEARK
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I didnt think it dropped that much voltage. maybe i'll wip out the handy dandy voltmeter and see how many volts its dropping through the circuit out of curiosity.

if its loosing that much power i'll definitely rig my own circuit up with relays and probably go up a guage in wire.

i dont know if this is a stupid question but.

what is the MININUM CCA needed for the 650.

the stock battery has a CCA of 120.

that seems pretty sad to me.

apparently i can get a powersource battery for cheaper than the oem.
and it puts out 175 CCA its not much of an improvemt but for cheaper and higher CCA.

maaaaybe its worth the investment?

im just throwing that out there even though im going tomorrow to pick up my yuasa



Quote:
Originally Posted by victor441 View Post
I've always had the best results w/ Yuasa batteries, not the cheapest but they are reliable and long lived. So far as the light output goes the first thing to do is add relays with a fused feed direct from the battery, the stock wiring typically drops 2 volts or so which will cut light output nearly in half and a high powered bulb would make the drop even worse. The relays are cheap if you go DIY or you can get a quality kit from http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wi...s/h4_kits.html
I installed relays and a plus bulb in my own bike and the lighting is not bad at all now ....also FWIW the stock reflector and lens are glass and can handle the added heat of an H4 plus or high power off road bulb OK

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