the DR650 thread

[NordieBoy]

Originally Posted by Mambo Dave

Re: grips...

I may have to replace mine eventually when I change bars, but I'm certainly not going for foam grips (that nobody has) when this 'solution' has worked for me on two bikes and many miles so far:

Tightly wound in a spiral, these cushion and leave no noticeable pressure points that had my hands tingling after many miles with traditional grips.

And, they're wider than most grips - I don't even have big hands, but I find this far more comfortable.

Yeah, yeah, I wish I had some other color rope to change it... sorta... but it's what I had on hand from the limited choices Home Depot had that day. (Of course within days they had most colors available again.)

If even only as a stop-gap until you can find foam grips, I think if its comfort you're looking for, you might try this out.

I get annoyed by the dimples on the ProGrip Ralley Grips...

[DR650SEDDY]

Originally Posted by NordieBoy

I want the ProGrip foam rally grips.

No-one has them

I have something similar on both bike & never use anything else but foam grips.
http://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-170...ords=foam+grip

See larger image

[BergDonk]

Originally Posted by 3DChief

While we are talking about heads and valves and pistons, I have a question for the collective wisdom of the group. My '96 DR has 27,000 miles on it. As I was wrapping up a 3 month 8K mile ride this summer, it started smoking on start up after sitting overnight. It will smoke for a few minutes, then the smoke goes away. Blue smoke, definitely oil smoke. It only does it after sitting overnight, if I restart it after fueling or stopping for a few minutes, there's no smoke. It's not using oil that I have noticed and runs normal, not down on power at all. My thoughts are rings or valve seals. I was considering buying the high compression piston kit and new valve seals and redoing the top end anyhow before this started. Am I on the right track? Should I just leave it alone and continue to ride it and save the kit for later?


Tim

Originally Posted by LucasLeader

My bike does the same thing. Doesn't burn up a noticeable amount of oil and stops smoking after a minute. It's been doing it a lot less lately too. I think the only problem I have with it is being a little embarrassed when I'm warming up my bike and spitting smoke at people walking by me.

Mine has done this randomly, +/- 1/20, only on cold starts since I got it, maybe only when the ambient temp is 10 C or below. No comsumption. I've assumed stem seals, but dunno, and don't worry about it.

[3DChief]

I suspected as much. I'll just ride it this season and see how it does. Mine has been really trouble free and I can't complain about a little bit of smoke. I would love an excuse to do the high compression kit or the 725 kit though!

Tim

[motolab]

Originally Posted by jessepitt

Will the increased spring tension caused by the needle shim cause a more sluggish throttle response?

The slide will be lower for a given combination of throttle position and rpm. This will be detrimental if it reduces the flow vs. what the butterfly could pass if there were no slide at all. It will be beneficial if the slide was already open more than it needs to be for a given intersection of throttle position and rpm.

Remember that the needle is attached to the slide, so raising the slide for a given intersection of throttle position and rpm means raising the needle. If the slide were higher than is needed to simply match the butterfly opening, then the mixture would be richened from the needle being out of the emulsion tube further while the airflow was limited by the butterfly.

Regards,

Derek

[motolab]

Originally Posted by Kommando

So...Are you saying to try a non-USA (adjustable) stock needle, an open airbox, an adjustable idle-mix screw, a 150 Mikuni main jet, and a x40F0x muff with a smoothed header, at sea-level? Should the pilot jet remain stock or go a size bigger?

I would use the non-USA adjustable needle with or without the open airbox.

The idle mixture screw is already adjustable. If you mean an extended one, I consider those the optional, depending on how much altitude variation the bike will see.

What pilot and main jet sizes to use will have to be determined.

Regards,

Derek

[motolab]

Originally Posted by 3DChief

While we are talking about heads and valves and pistons, I have a question for the collective wisdom of the group. My '96 DR has 27,000 miles on it. As I was wrapping up a 3 month 8K mile ride this summer, it started smoking on start up after sitting overnight. It will smoke for a few minutes, then the smoke goes away. Blue smoke, definitely oil smoke. It only does it after sitting overnight, if I restart it after fueling or stopping for a few minutes, there's no smoke. It's not using oil that I have noticed and runs normal, not down on power at all. My thoughts are rings or valve seals.

That's a valve guide seal problem. It could be that the valve guide clearance is too large, which means new seals wouldn't last very long.

Regards,

Derek

[Midnightventure]

I had a Chevy S-10 pickup that started doing that at about 50000 miles. I sold it with 217000 miles on it and the engine still didn't use a qt between oil changes.

[acesandeights]

FYI, suspension, gearing impressions.

Got my bike back this afternoon from a local suspension guru and nothing is spewing fork/shock oil! But, even better than that is the way the bike feels. It sure doesn't ride like a DR650 anymore, at least nothing like a stock one. I am shocked (notice the pun!) at the difference the emulators and shock shaft assembly have made. Granted, I've only put about 40 miles on it since I picked it up, but having the adjustable rebound is incredible. The bike is planted.

I may have gone a bit too stiff with the springs (.70 front and 8.1 rear), I'm still figuring it out. It's a relatively stiff ride, but the fact that it doesn't bounce around on wash board is phenom. I need to find a place that's significantly more rutted or wash boarded out because most of the stuff around here has a nice layer of new gravel over a frozen layer of dirt, but the dirt roads nearest my house are completely different to ride with the new suspension.

I just wanted to post this for those on the fence about upgrading the suspension. It probably doesn't matter what you do as an upgrade, it's probably all for the better, but if you go all out and get new springs and emulators and a rear shock with adjustability, I think you'll be surprised at how different your bike will feel and perform.

BTW, I also changed the front and rear sprockets (one down in the front, one up in the back). I guess it's got to be about an 8 or 9% change and it has made a pretty good difference, and definitely not too low for around town, commuting and gravel roads. I lost a little top-end, but I didn't use it anyway (over 5k miles and it's never been on an interstate).

[TrophyHunter]

Good to hear, Ace. Suspension mods went right to the top of my list for any bike after doing them on the DR. Like a different bike and as you said - planted - feel.

Congrats.

[acesandeights]

I wanted to have it a year before modifying (much) it so I didn't get caught up in buying stuff that I ended up not liking, and so far I'm really liking the new mods. I'm really surprised at how the new bars seemed to have eliminated the buzz too.

All that's left, in the short term are the new Barkbusters and bar ends.

It almost rides like a dirt bike in the dirt now

[Rob.G]

Originally Posted by acesandeights

FYI, suspension, gearing impressions.

Got my bike back this afternoon from a local suspension guru and nothing is spewing fork/shock oil! But, even better than that is the way the bike feels. It sure doesn't ride like a DR650 anymore, at least nothing like a stock one. I am shocked (notice the pun!) at the difference the emulators and shock shaft assembly have made. Granted, I've only put about 40 miles on it since I picked it up, but having the adjustable rebound is incredible. The bike is planted.

I may have gone a bit too stiff with the springs (.70 front and 8.1 rear), I'm still figuring it out. It's a relatively stiff ride, but the fact that it doesn't bounce around on wash board is phenom. I need to find a place that's significantly more rutted or wash boarded out because most of the stuff around here has a nice layer of new gravel over a frozen layer of dirt, but the dirt roads nearest my house are completely different to ride with the new suspension.

I just wanted to post this for those on the fence about upgrading the suspension. It probably doesn't matter what you do as an upgrade, it's probably all for the better, but if you go all out and get new springs and emulators and a rear shock with adjustability, I think you'll be surprised at how different your bike will feel and perform.

Awesome!!!!

Question -- you mentioned adjustable rebound. Is this on the rear shock? If so, how'd you get that with the Shock Solution kit? I'm starting to seriously consider that instead of the Cogent route because of cost difference... $289 vs $600.

Rob

[acesandeights]

If you look at the item just above the shock solution kit you'll see the shock shaft assembly. It's basically the same thing as the Cogent. Although I'm not completely familiar with the Cogent, it was explained to me the Race Tech shock shaft assembly is better (I'm not saying it is, it was explained to me to be better).

[Feelers]

Originally Posted by acesandeights

FYI, suspension, gearing impressions.

Got my bike back this afternoon from a local suspension guru and nothing is spewing fork/shock oil! But, even better than that is the way the bike feels. It sure doesn't ride like a DR650 anymore, at least nothing like a stock one. I am shocked (notice the pun!) at the difference the emulators and shock shaft assembly have made. Granted, I've only put about 40 miles on it since I picked it up, but having the adjustable rebound is incredible. The bike is planted.

I may have gone a bit too stiff with the springs (.70 front and 8.1 rear), I'm still figuring it out. It's a relatively stiff ride, but the fact that it doesn't bounce around on wash board is phenom. I need to find a place that's significantly more rutted or wash boarded out because most of the stuff around here has a nice layer of new gravel over a frozen layer of dirt, but the dirt roads nearest my house are completely different to ride with the new suspension.

I just wanted to post this for those on the fence about upgrading the suspension. It probably doesn't matter what you do as an upgrade, it's probably all for the better, but if you go all out and get new springs and emulators and a rear shock with adjustability, I think you'll be surprised at how different your bike will feel and perform.

BTW, I also changed the front and rear sprockets (one down in the front, one up in the back). I guess it's got to be about an 8 or 9% change and it has made a pretty good difference, and definitely not too low for around town, commuting and gravel roads. I lost a little top-end, but I didn't use it anyway (over 5k miles and it's never been on an interstate).

Absolutely! Young or new people always want performance mods, and limit their definition of performance to speed and power because power numbers are easy to compare and brag about. But, real speed involves turns too, and a confidence inspiring suspension will add more performance to most bikes than engine mods ever will. Before adding that loud 1 additional horsepower $400 wide open can, absolutely work on the suspension!! Good, well-adjusted suspension will go a LONG way towards making you a better and happier rider. I haven't experienced a stock DR, but mine with up-rated springs front and rear, intiminators, and rebuilt shock is more stable and confidence inspiring than my sportbike.

[JagLite]

Originally Posted by Rob.G

Awesome!!!!

Question -- you mentioned adjustable rebound. Is this on the rear shock? If so, how'd you get that with the Shock Solution kit? I'm starting to seriously consider that instead of the Cogent route because of cost difference... $289 vs $600.

Rob

The Shock solution kit for $289 is nothing like the Cogent rebuild. or the full shock shaft assembly from PC.
It is a great budget rebuild improvement but is not in the same league.
The Cogent rebuild kit is $295 if you can do it yourself (spring NOT included) and it gives you full adjustment.
Or for $399 you can have them rebuild yours for you (again, spring is extra)
Their optional Mil spec coating is not required and you don't get that with any other rebuild so don't add that $ to the Cogent cost.

So, the bottom line is that if you want the best, you want full adjustment, comp & rebound, and if you need a different spring, the Cogent costs under $500 and they do the work, or you can spend $498 for the Shock Shaft assembly and you do the work.
Kinda seems like an easy decision to me...