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Old 01-28-2013, 06:14 PM   #73261
GSF1200S
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Oddometer: 975
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
Today I wrapped up my series of upgrades and maintenance on the DR by locktite-ing new allen head screws in place of the originals on the NSU switch and did it without removing the clutch basket which wasn't all that bad, a little fiddley but fairly quick to do. Nothing new to add to this repair and of course the the screws were not even tight.

I feel like I dodged the bullet on this one and got by on dumb luck. I've owned this 07 for 2 years now and it has a total of 5,000 miles, much more and the screws would have fallen out. Shear laziness on my part for not doing it right away when I bought the bike. The reason for this post now is to encourage anyone like me who has put it off to do it sooner than later. It's an easy fix for something that can spell big trouble if you let it go.
Mine were so tight I had to use an impact drive to get them loose

The primary nut, however, was way loose and would have come off in time. Its amazing how much these guys vary unit to unit..

08 6700 miles when I did it
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:15 PM   #73262
3DChief
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Montana
Oddometer: 411
Mine has the spray-on liner, probably about 5 or 6 coats. It helps, but not as much as you would think. The skid plate is still too reflective for sound waves. It's not vibration noises, it's all the noises the engine normally makes that are being reflected up at you instead of towards the ground. At first I was trying to find things to quiet it down, finally decided it isn't a big deal and I just ignore it now. I would like to find a really porous foam (think stripper pad on a floor buffer) to put in there and will try it if I find one. I just don't want anything that will hold water, it still needs to drain well.

Tim
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:54 PM   #73263
gofast1320
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Middle Tennessee
Oddometer: 659
surging

I noticed what felt like surging at 55-60mph the other day. The bike is new to me but is a 2006 with less than 4500 miles on it. I've put about 200 miles on it while just running around locally over 3 days getting used to it.
If I drill out the eco/epa whatever block on that carb screw is there a set amount I need to back it out. Or do I screw it in and then put it back and add 1/4 or 1/2 turn to it? Thanks
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:07 PM   #73264
Feelers
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Northeast Ohio
Oddometer: 181
Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Best material to use on the skid plate to quite the vibration it makes and noise it focuses up into the bike???

Thinking the stick on sound deadeners panels where it does not touch the frame. Or a spray on line-x on the bottom underneath surface too??? how about that spray on under car body sound deadener??? the black stick stuff?

thanks, bill
Mass loaded vinyl with one side with adhesive is your best bet.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:16 PM   #73265
Emmbeedee
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 8,918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Mass loaded vinyl with one side with adhesive is your best bet.
This might work.



I used it to isolate my Pelican box from the rack I mounted it on.

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Old 01-28-2013, 07:18 PM   #73266
cemory
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Topeka, Ks
Oddometer: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
Mass loaded vinyl with one side with adhesive is your best bet.
I used dynamat that I bought at the local Best Buy store. They use it in cars to deaden sound from door and back dash speakers, etc. Here is just one link with some info on it. Best part is that you can trim to fit with scissors and then peel the paper off the self stick backing. I tried some spray on liner but I could never get it to stay on the aluminum skid plate. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dyc-10415/overview/

Chris in Topeka
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:22 PM   #73267
motolab
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Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,174
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feelers View Post
In attempting to raise the bar, I just want to point out that his name is Derek... not Eric...

That is pretty entertaining...

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:26 PM   #73268
motolab
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Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,174
Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
I noticed what felt like surging at 55-60mph the other day.
What is the throttle position when the problem occurs?
Quote:
The bike is new to me but is a 2006 with less than 4500 miles on it. I've put about 200 miles on it while just running around locally over 3 days getting used to it.
Was the bike ever stored for any length of time?
Quote:
If I drill out the eco/epa whatever block on that carb screw is there a set amount I need to back it out. Or do I screw it in and then put it back and add 1/4 or 1/2 turn to it? Thanks
The fuel screw should be used to adjust the idle mixture. It is not applicable to other openings.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:49 PM   #73269
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
I noticed what felt like surging at 55-60mph the other day. The bike is new to me but is a 2006 with less than 4500 miles on it. I've put about 200 miles on it while just running around locally over 3 days getting used to it.
If I drill out the eco/epa whatever block on that carb screw is there a set amount I need to back it out. Or do I screw it in and then put it back and add 1/4 or 1/2 turn to it? Thanks
More details would help. Could be several things. Start with simple and cheap things:
1. Run some Sea Foam in your gas for a tank or two. (still surging?)
2. Drain tank, flush, remove petcock and clean fuel inlet filter.
3. Is the air box stock or modified? Is left side cover on bike?

The screw you're referring to is the fuel/air adjustment. Affects idle to one eighth throttle. Use a sheet rock screw to remove tin cover. It's UNDER Carb bowl, hard to see or reach. Rotate carb to gain access. Take sheet rock screw and poke into tin seal ... pull it out. Now you can remove the stock screw and add an extended fuel/air screw. Much easier to adjust with the extended screw.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:06 PM   #73270
GSF1200S
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Oddometer: 975
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
Mine has the spray-on liner, probably about 5 or 6 coats. It helps, but not as much as you would think. The skid plate is still too reflective for sound waves. It's not vibration noises, it's all the noises the engine normally makes that are being reflected up at you instead of towards the ground. At first I was trying to find things to quiet it down, finally decided it isn't a big deal and I just ignore it now. I would like to find a really porous foam (think stripper pad on a floor buffer) to put in there and will try it if I find one. I just don't want anything that will hold water, it still needs to drain well.

Tim
I used a floor mat made out of closed cell foam sold at Lowes for workshops. While I was working on the bike a lady friend of mine cut out places for the frame rails to go. This mat is about 3/4 of an inch thick, and it sounds exactly the same as before I put the skidplate on.

I do have a question ive been meaning to ask here though- since the mat sits up against the engine, should I worry about it overheating some particular bearing surface somewhere near the bottom of the engine? I know DRs run cool, and I havent worried about it so far since its been cold enough due to winter, but what about summer? Im thinking I might drop the skidplate and remove the stuff and try some spray on stuff, but it sure is nice not hearing any new noises with the skidplate on..
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:40 PM   #73271
Magnum Noel
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Wellington NZ
Oddometer: 173
After many weeks of waiting and working on the DR I finished my project, except for new tires next month. Just turned the key off after starting to make sure it still runs. The project was:
1. strip the bike down to its frame and powder coat the frame black
2. clean up all the rims and hubs exhaust and any other component that needed a thorough going through
3. disassemble the previously installed RMZ450 front forks to change the oil to a lighter weight and at the same time shorten the overall travel from 12.2" to 11.5"--- this allowed me to drop the forks into the triple clamps farther than before and tighten up the steering for serious off road handling, while turning the rear preload down a little for a more trail oriented ride
4. also installed a new set of fat bars that I think I will like even better than the previous bars
5. I previously had purchased a new ULY front headlight assembly but opted to put the stock lights back on and sell the ULY headlight since I also recently bought a 2009 KLR for my road riding adventures
6. rewired the BMW plug and cig lighter plug a little nicer

Mate that looks awsome. Well done.
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:54 PM   #73272
Sierra Thumper
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Joined: Oct 2012
Oddometer: 641
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCExpat View Post
Looking at a 2003 DR650 ($2300) with 15K miles and the owner has replaced the clutch. I thought that was kind of early for a clutch to wear out.....unless it had been slipped a lot or?? Searching the thread for "clutch" gives hundreds of post but....after a while I gave up and thought to take the easy way and just ask.

There is also a very clean 2002 at a dealer with 10K miles but $2700.
We just got above freezing for the first time in weeks and I am a fair weather rider so if I get one now it will just sit in the garage for a couple of months. But it is fun to hunt for a deal now and think of all the rides we will go on when it warms up.

TIA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Or even a lack of play in the cable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
Clutch wear comes down to riding style, some use it as a torque converter and the life is much shorter than someone who uses it in a more conservative manner. Keep in mind the current owner may love to power wheelie and that eats up the clutch faster and is also tough on the head stock bearings so when you look at the bike grab a handful of brake and try to rock the bike back and forth listening and feeling for movement in that area.
Yep, there could be many reasons why a clutch would need replacing before 15k miles on a DR, but the most likely reason is stated above...the po just plain wore it out through his riding style.
I'm always suspicious of replaced parts like clutches on lower mileage machinery.....makes me wonder what other hidden wear and tear the machine went through to prematurely wear out the clutch.
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:23 AM   #73273
SCExpat
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Caldwell, ID
Oddometer: 576
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
Yep, there could be many reasons why a clutch would need replacing before 15k miles on a DR, but the most likely reason is stated above...the po just plain wore it out through his riding style.
I'm always suspicious of replaced parts like clutches on lower mileage machinery.....makes me wonder what other hidden wear and tear the machine went through to prematurely wear out the clutch.
My exact concern. I thought 15K was a bit early for a new clutch. As I am in no rush I am going to pass on it. Even if it is a good price. A nicer one will show up before it gets warm enough for me to ride here.
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:37 AM   #73274
doug s.
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Joined: May 2011
Location: md
Oddometer: 1,266
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCExpat View Post
My exact concern. I thought 15K was a bit early for a new clutch. As I am in no rush I am going to pass on it. Even if it is a good price. A nicer one will show up before it gets warm enough for me to ride here.
if it otherwise looks decent, you could always offer $1500, and then walk away if the seller says no...

doug s.
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:46 AM   #73275
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Northcentral CT
Oddometer: 8,494
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I used a floor mat made out of closed cell foam sold at Lowes for workshops.
I have always cut strips of HD innertubes and squeezed them between the frame and skidplate on all my bikes. I think that much of what people are hearing is the plate vibrating harmonically. This may not be enough for some of you. The DR650 is the quietest bike I have ever owned, I've never had a streetbike so I can't compare what others perceive as noisey.

You definitely want closed cell foam,(like GSF suggests) especially offraod. The bufferpad will soon be adobe. Think about using a "pool noodle" or foam pipe insulation instead.
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