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Old 01-28-2013, 07:49 PM   #73261
Adv Grifter
on the road o'dreams
 
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
I noticed what felt like surging at 55-60mph the other day. The bike is new to me but is a 2006 with less than 4500 miles on it. I've put about 200 miles on it while just running around locally over 3 days getting used to it.
If I drill out the eco/epa whatever block on that carb screw is there a set amount I need to back it out. Or do I screw it in and then put it back and add 1/4 or 1/2 turn to it? Thanks
More details would help. Could be several things. Start with simple and cheap things:
1. Run some Sea Foam in your gas for a tank or two. (still surging?)
2. Drain tank, flush, remove petcock and clean fuel inlet filter.
3. Is the air box stock or modified? Is left side cover on bike?

The screw you're referring to is the fuel/air adjustment. Affects idle to one eighth throttle. Use a sheet rock screw to remove tin cover. It's UNDER Carb bowl, hard to see or reach. Rotate carb to gain access. Take sheet rock screw and poke into tin seal ... pull it out. Now you can remove the stock screw and add an extended fuel/air screw. Much easier to adjust with the extended screw.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:06 PM   #73262
GSF1200S
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Oddometer: 976
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
Mine has the spray-on liner, probably about 5 or 6 coats. It helps, but not as much as you would think. The skid plate is still too reflective for sound waves. It's not vibration noises, it's all the noises the engine normally makes that are being reflected up at you instead of towards the ground. At first I was trying to find things to quiet it down, finally decided it isn't a big deal and I just ignore it now. I would like to find a really porous foam (think stripper pad on a floor buffer) to put in there and will try it if I find one. I just don't want anything that will hold water, it still needs to drain well.

Tim
I used a floor mat made out of closed cell foam sold at Lowes for workshops. While I was working on the bike a lady friend of mine cut out places for the frame rails to go. This mat is about 3/4 of an inch thick, and it sounds exactly the same as before I put the skidplate on.

I do have a question ive been meaning to ask here though- since the mat sits up against the engine, should I worry about it overheating some particular bearing surface somewhere near the bottom of the engine? I know DRs run cool, and I havent worried about it so far since its been cold enough due to winter, but what about summer? Im thinking I might drop the skidplate and remove the stuff and try some spray on stuff, but it sure is nice not hearing any new noises with the skidplate on..
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:40 PM   #73263
Magnum Noel
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Wellington NZ
Oddometer: 174
After many weeks of waiting and working on the DR I finished my project, except for new tires next month. Just turned the key off after starting to make sure it still runs. The project was:
1. strip the bike down to its frame and powder coat the frame black
2. clean up all the rims and hubs exhaust and any other component that needed a thorough going through
3. disassemble the previously installed RMZ450 front forks to change the oil to a lighter weight and at the same time shorten the overall travel from 12.2" to 11.5"--- this allowed me to drop the forks into the triple clamps farther than before and tighten up the steering for serious off road handling, while turning the rear preload down a little for a more trail oriented ride
4. also installed a new set of fat bars that I think I will like even better than the previous bars
5. I previously had purchased a new ULY front headlight assembly but opted to put the stock lights back on and sell the ULY headlight since I also recently bought a 2009 KLR for my road riding adventures
6. rewired the BMW plug and cig lighter plug a little nicer

Mate that looks awsome. Well done.
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:54 PM   #73264
Sierra Thumper
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Joined: Oct 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCExpat View Post
Looking at a 2003 DR650 ($2300) with 15K miles and the owner has replaced the clutch. I thought that was kind of early for a clutch to wear out.....unless it had been slipped a lot or?? Searching the thread for "clutch" gives hundreds of post but....after a while I gave up and thought to take the easy way and just ask.

There is also a very clean 2002 at a dealer with 10K miles but $2700.
We just got above freezing for the first time in weeks and I am a fair weather rider so if I get one now it will just sit in the garage for a couple of months. But it is fun to hunt for a deal now and think of all the rides we will go on when it warms up.

TIA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Or even a lack of play in the cable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
Clutch wear comes down to riding style, some use it as a torque converter and the life is much shorter than someone who uses it in a more conservative manner. Keep in mind the current owner may love to power wheelie and that eats up the clutch faster and is also tough on the head stock bearings so when you look at the bike grab a handful of brake and try to rock the bike back and forth listening and feeling for movement in that area.
Yep, there could be many reasons why a clutch would need replacing before 15k miles on a DR, but the most likely reason is stated above...the po just plain wore it out through his riding style.
I'm always suspicious of replaced parts like clutches on lower mileage machinery.....makes me wonder what other hidden wear and tear the machine went through to prematurely wear out the clutch.
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:23 AM   #73265
SCExpat
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Caldwell, ID
Oddometer: 590
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
Yep, there could be many reasons why a clutch would need replacing before 15k miles on a DR, but the most likely reason is stated above...the po just plain wore it out through his riding style.
I'm always suspicious of replaced parts like clutches on lower mileage machinery.....makes me wonder what other hidden wear and tear the machine went through to prematurely wear out the clutch.
My exact concern. I thought 15K was a bit early for a new clutch. As I am in no rush I am going to pass on it. Even if it is a good price. A nicer one will show up before it gets warm enough for me to ride here.
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:37 AM   #73266
doug s.
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Joined: May 2011
Location: md
Oddometer: 1,270
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCExpat View Post
My exact concern. I thought 15K was a bit early for a new clutch. As I am in no rush I am going to pass on it. Even if it is a good price. A nicer one will show up before it gets warm enough for me to ride here.
if it otherwise looks decent, you could always offer $1500, and then walk away if the seller says no...

doug s.
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:46 AM   #73267
Rusty Rocket
Life behind "Bars"
 
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
Oddometer: 8,600
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I used a floor mat made out of closed cell foam sold at Lowes for workshops.
I have always cut strips of HD innertubes and squeezed them between the frame and skidplate on all my bikes. I think that much of what people are hearing is the plate vibrating harmonically. This may not be enough for some of you. The DR650 is the quietest bike I have ever owned, I've never had a streetbike so I can't compare what others perceive as noisey.

You definitely want closed cell foam,(like GSF suggests) especially offraod. The bufferpad will soon be adobe. Think about using a "pool noodle" or foam pipe insulation instead.
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:54 AM   #73268
WindPipe
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Duneland
Oddometer: 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
The primary nut, however, was way loose and would have come off in time. Its amazing how much these guys vary unit to unit.
What size socket do I need for that primary nut. My searches have come up empty ...
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:56 AM   #73269
shu
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 980
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I have always cut strips of HD innertubes and squeezed them between the frame and skidplate on all my bikes.
That's what I did as well. Seems to work fine for me- of course, I wear earplugs when I ride.

...........shu
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:55 AM   #73270
jessepitt
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Redmond Oregon
Oddometer: 993
I also use inner tubes to dampen vibration but like any other sane or intelligent person I wear earplugs, so the noise doesn't really bother me.
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:05 AM   #73271
barko1
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
Oddometer: 3,207
I bought a piece of compressible foam designed for the purpose but frankly since I always where earplugs I don't notice much difference. I wonder if several coats of Plasti-Dip might work. It is pretty tough, you can cover your whole car with it (might be good for DR side panels!).

Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Best material to use on the skid plate to quite the vibration it makes and noise it focuses up into the bike???

Thinking the stick on sound deadeners panels where it does not touch the frame. Or a spray on line-x on the bottom underneath surface too??? how about that spray on under car body sound deadener??? the black stick stuff?

thanks, bill
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:13 AM   #73272
SkunkWizard
recycle crime scene tape
 
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: "the Planet"
Oddometer: 664
Quote:
Originally Posted by ram1000 View Post
After many weeks of waiting and working on the DR I finished my project, except for new tires next month. Just turned the key off after starting to make sure it still runs. The project was:
1. strip the bike down to its frame and powder coat the frame black
2. clean up all the rims and hubs exhaust and any other component that needed a thorough going through
3. disassemble the previously installed RMZ450 front forks to change the oil to a lighter weight and at the same time shorten the overall travel from 12.2" to 11.5"--- this allowed me to drop the forks into the triple clamps farther than before and tighten up the steering for serious off road handling, while turning the rear preload down a little for a more trail oriented ride
4. also installed a new set of fat bars that I think I will like even better than the previous bars
5. I previously had purchased a new ULY front headlight assembly but opted to put the stock lights back on and sell the ULY headlight since I also recently bought a 2009 KLR for my road riding adventures
6. rewired the BMW plug and cig lighter plug a little nicer




Job done well! be proud show it off
looks very Latrodectus hesperus
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:47 AM   #73273
LucasLeader
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Chico, CA
Oddometer: 292
Quote:
Originally Posted by ram1000 View Post

Is your chain a little loose?
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:04 AM   #73274
motolab
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Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,219
Quote:
Originally Posted by opium89 View Post
My other one doesn't pop much at all. You don't think tweaking that needle a bit might help? I find it curious that it all but goes away when the choke is opened up.
Sorry for not replying sooner and thanks for the PM to remind me.

The area the needle is responsible for is 1/4 opening. The needle should not be used to tune closed throttle even though there may very well be enough overlap to affect it. To illustrate the problem: Let's say that you had tuned the clip position to achieve perfect running at 1/4 opening, and you now raised the needle to richen the mixture at closed throttle. The result will be that the mixture at 1/4 opening will now be too rich, while the effect on closed throttle may or may not be as desired. Closed throttle is solely the responsibility of the fuel screw unless the pilot jet size is out of range. You can test this by evaluating 1/16 to 1/8 opening running and/or by whether or not the engine can be killed at both extremes of the fuel screw's adjustment range. Of these two, the former is absolute (misadjusted float height, clogged/incorrect pilot air bleed size or worn parts notwithstanding) while the latter should only be used to give you hints.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:55 AM   #73275
ram1000
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Tricities Washington
Oddometer: 1,819
Quote:
Originally Posted by LucasLeader View Post
Is your chain a little loose?
I am waiting for new tires before I adjust the chain...
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