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Old 02-01-2013, 07:01 AM   #73336
Minsk99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
I'm looking at a tank bag too and am now interested in the giant Loop Fandango bag http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Giant-Loo...#ht_584wt_1085 which is waterproof (more than the worlfman tank bag).

How do you think they'd fit on the safari tank? I'm someone that likes to watch the speedo as much as possible but if its blocking my view of how fast I'm going, well it makes Mr Policeman more interested in me
I have the GL Diablo bag which is basically just a smaller Fandango. You might want to check that out as well. FYI, there are pictures on the GL web site that show a Fandango paired with a IMS on a DR. Also pictures of a Fandango on a Husky with a safari tank.





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Old 02-01-2013, 07:16 AM   #73337
DockingPilot
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I use this Seal Line bag. Fits nicely in the limited cockpit space, holds plenty and is waterproof. I have 2 Wolfman Enduro bags. Used them on other bikes. Tried it on the DR but they were too intrusive for me. This seal line bag is flatter.





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Old 02-01-2013, 07:41 AM   #73338
Lil' Steve
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Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post

Tell us more about that seat, looks wide & comfy.
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:45 AM   #73339
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket
Can someone point me to the stock measurements of DR650 bars? I bought mine with Renthal bars already on it, but still not tall enough. I would like to know how far they have been raised (if at all) before trying to go higher. I think the clutch cable from an RM or RMX is longer and fits. Anyone confirm that? Thanks
Here you go:

Width: 32.04"
Height: 3.11"
Pull Back: 2.32"

Renthal's RM Bend is an exact match. I believe it was $60 when I bought it from Rocky Mtn. ATV (part #: 1059960086 - silver). I also have 1" risers and am using stock cables.
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:58 AM   #73340
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Here you go:

Width: 32.04"
Height: 3.11"
Pull Back: 2.32"

Renthal's RM Bend is an exact match. I believe it was $60 when I bought it from Rocky Mtn. ATV (part #: 1059960086 - silver). I also have 1" risers and am using stock cables.
Thanks 638.
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:03 AM   #73341
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spotlight View Post
I have searched this thread until my eyes are bugged out. Has anyone changed their DR bars to the Pro Taper Woods High bends? if so what's your take any noticeable change. If there is a tread on this can someone direct me to it kinda a noob here.....great thread!
I have the Woods High Bend on my DR650. They're identical in bend to the stock bars. I added 4-1/2" of rise using the ROX 3-1/2" riser plus the 1" spacers from ProCycle. The stock cables are long enough if you reroute them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
How do you think they'd fit on the safari tank? I'm someone that likes to watch the speedo as much as possible but if its blocking my view of how fast I'm going, well it makes Mr Policeman more interested in me
It may block your view a bit; I don't notice because I watch my speed on my GPS.

Rob
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:05 AM   #73342
acesandeights
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What's the effect of lowering the front suspension slightly without the same in the rear, meaning what if the rear is stock and you lower the front by 1/2" - 1". Is it quicker or slower turn-in, or something else entirely?
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:26 AM   #73343
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
What's the effect of lowering the front suspension slightly without the same in the rear, meaning what if the rear is stock and you lower the front by 1/2" - 1". Is it quicker or slower turn-in, or something else entirely?
Supposedly it'll turn in a bit quicker if you lower the front while leaving the rear the same. But there's a point at which that's no longer the case.

My very first bike was a Kawasaki ER-6n (2009). I knew NOTHING about bikes or bike suspensions or anything at the time. While taking a riding class, the instructor asked to ride it and I said sure. He came back, said he liked it, but wished it turned in a little sharper. He noted that the tubes were already up against the bars, so we couldn't do that without some other changes, which I wasn't really into doing.

Fast forward a year and I traded it on a new Z1000 (I already had my DR650 at this point), and the Z1000's handling was just insane (as in great). It was like riding a scalpel compared to that ER-6n. While over at the dealer picking up some accessories, I happened to notice a new, leftover ER-6n on the showroom floor, same year as mine. I saw that the fork tubes on it were flush with the triple. Meaning mine had already been lowered! I did buy it used, though. But I really hated how the thing handled because it seemed to understeer into turns. It just didn't want to lay down, and made me very timid trying to ride at anything more than a gentle pace. I couldn't help but wonder if the previous owner had lowered it to try to make it turn in faster, but by going as far as he did (about 1"), he made it worse.

So the moral is... if you're gonna try it, do it a little bit at a time... like maybe 1/4" at a time.

Rob
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:28 AM   #73344
pjensen641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
What's the effect of lowering the front suspension slightly without the same in the rear, meaning what if the rear is stock and you lower the front by 1/2" - 1". Is it quicker or slower turn-in, or something else entirely?
Lowering typically helps keep the front planted and reduces wash out. Quicker steering. Its the same principle as sitting up by the gas tank when turning in the dirt.

I'm told too much lowering can increase tenancy to get in to a tank slapper, but never experienced that myself. Also too much lowering plus soft springs can lead to a front end tuck when in the loose stuff in turns.

I typically lower all my dual-sport front ends by 3/8-3/4". It helps turn in and overall stability on dirt/gravel. 1" is a bit excessive. At some point you will lower enough that your dust seals and upper edge of the fork tube will run in to the lower triple clamp instead of bottoming out in the oil lock piece. Not only would this be very jarring, but would probably damage something. If I lower more than 1/2" i typically pull the springs and let the fork collapse all the way down to check that the fork seals will not impact the lower triple.
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:36 AM   #73345
Northyork
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DR650 Accessories

Hi, I have sold my DR650, moved on to a KTM 990 Adventure. DR650 is a great bike, it gave me lots of satisfactions, but it was time to try something new. Anyhow I have a whole bunch of accessories for sale.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20627086&postcount=1

Link stop working I had to re-do it

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Old 02-01-2013, 08:51 AM   #73346
acesandeights
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Thanks. After having my suspension rebuilt; emulators, springs, rear shock shaft assembly and spring, it seems my bike turns in much faster. My bike was factory lowered at the time I bought it and I rode it that way for over a year.

I don't think the aftermarket rear shock assembly allows for the rear to be lowered as much as it's capable of being lowered with stock parts and it got me thinking that maybe it's slightly taller in the rear than it was, while the front is lowered the same as it was prior to having the suspension work done. It wouldn't be much of a difference, but I thought it might account for part of the difference in turn-in. I guess I had too much changed at once to pin it down exactly. The bike just rides much more like a dirt bike than it did.
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:14 AM   #73347
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
Thanks. After having my suspension rebuilt; emulators, springs, rear shock shaft assembly and spring, it seems my bike turns in much faster. My bike was factory lowered at the time I bought it and I rode it that way for over a year.

I don't think the aftermarket rear shock assembly allows for the rear to be lowered as much as it's capable of being lowered with stock parts and it got me thinking that maybe it's slightly taller in the rear than it was, while the front is lowered the same as it was prior to having the suspension work done. It wouldn't be much of a difference, but I thought it might account for part of the difference in turn-in. I guess I had too much changed at once to pin it down exactly. The bike just rides much more like a dirt bike than it did.
The lowering for the rear is all in which hole you put the bolt through... that shouldn't have changed with the rebuild.

When your forks were done, did the guy put the spacer on top (stock ride height) or under the damper rod (lowered)?

Rob
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:39 AM   #73348
sandwash
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Good handlebar spec info here:
http://drriders.com/topic497.html#p3688
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:59 AM   #73349
eakins
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Hey Jeff - ProCycle,

Do you offer shorter or have found shorter fork boots that compensate when using a fork brace? The stock boots have to be pushed up a good bit to sit above the fork brace. Do your aftermarket fork boots fit better with a fork brace?

Thanks Bill

ps if you can find the supplier for this cap http://www.vstroma.com/oilfillercap.htm it fits the DR perfectly (the exact same cap used on the DR & Vstrom. i compared when i owned both bikes at the same time) and this cap is a great security cap for RTW travelers. have it on my bike - see pic below.

here are the pricier options:
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/1...rom-DL650-1000
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/P...rom-DL650-1000

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Old 02-01-2013, 10:06 AM   #73350
Rob.G
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Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Hey Jeff - ProCycle,

Do you offer shorter or have found shorter fork boots that compensate when using a fork brace? The stock boots have to be pushed up a good bit to sit above the fork brace. Do your aftermarket fork boots fit better with a fork brace?

Thanks Bill
Replace 'em with the neoprene fork skins instead. I use those and love 'em.

Word of caution -- if you're running the factory lowered setup, the fork brace will likely hit the underside of your fender. I discovered this the hard way; ended up selling off the brace.

Rob
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