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Old 01-31-2013, 08:51 PM   #73336
sunthechip
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Okay, thanks guys!
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:40 PM   #73337
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spotlight View Post
I have searched this thread until my eyes are bugged out. Has anyone changed their DR bars to the Pro Taper Woods High bends? if so what's your take any noticeable change. If there is a tread on this can someone direct me to it kinda a noob here.....great thread!
i'm using PT SE ATV mid and love it.
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:37 PM   #73338
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spotlight View Post
I have searched this thread until my eyes are bugged out. Has anyone changed their DR bars to the Pro Taper Woods High bends? if so what's your take any noticeable change. If there is a tread on this can someone direct me to it kinda a noob here.....great thread!
Try this thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634120

I never minded the stock bars ... but prefer my Pro Tapers. Less vibration from Alu bars. I uses Pro Taper risers ... up about one inch. Still retains the rubber damping ... which is important, IMO.

Straight forward job ... be sure to buy bark busters made for FAT bars.

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Old 01-31-2013, 10:42 PM   #73339
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunthechip View Post
I accidentally shifted without pulling the clutch in and was wondering if that has done any damage to the engine.

The 1st time was a down shift when I was going about 30-40mph, and the 2nd time was when I shifted into 1st from neutral at a stand still.

I have never done this before - I din't even know that it was possible, but I know it is bad for my bike.

Thanks
Not really a problem. Did you know ALL motocross bikes are designed and built to do Clutch-less shifts? This is not new. Most Japanese off road bikes are built to handle this. But ... our DR has what some might consider a more delicate trans ... SO DON'T DO IT TOO MUCH! Or at least not under full throttle ... which is how the Moto kids shift.

The occasional shifting error is unlikely to hurt anything.
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Old 02-01-2013, 01:05 AM   #73340
Thumper Dan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Those are both magnetic, and they really need a "flatter" tank top than the IMS tank has (or even the stock DR tank). IMO the best tank bags available are the Wolfman or the Giant Loop. I have the Giant Loop because I got a deal on it used in the Flea Market, and it really is waterproof. BUT, the map pocket still seems to draw moisture, which is odd.

Rob
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
Those are both magnetic, and they really need a "flatter" tank top than the IMS tank has (or even the stock DR tank). IMO the best tank bags available are the Wolfman or the Giant Loop. I have the Giant Loop because I got a deal on it used in the Flea Market, and it really is waterproof. BUT, the map pocket still seems to draw moisture, which is odd.

Rob
I'm looking at a tank bag too and am now interested in the giant Loop Fandango bag http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Giant-Loo...#ht_584wt_1085 which is waterproof (more than the worlfman tank bag).

How do you think they'd fit on the safari tank? I'm someone that likes to watch the speedo as much as possible but if its blocking my view of how fast I'm going, well it makes Mr Policeman more interested in me
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Old 02-01-2013, 02:10 AM   #73341
GSF1200S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
I'm looking at a tank bag too and am now interested in the giant Loop Fandango bag http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Giant-Loo...#ht_584wt_1085 which is waterproof (more than the worlfman tank bag).

How do you think they'd fit on the safari tank? I'm someone that likes to watch the speedo as much as possible but if its blocking my view of how fast I'm going, well it makes Mr Policeman more interested in me
I have a giant loop fandango and an IMS tank on the way- ill report back here with some pics when I get it set up. That said, the Safari tank im sure is taller.

In terms of waterproofness, I seam sealed the hell out of the bag and then subjected it to a full on blast with a garden hose- inside of the bag stayed dry. As someone said above though, a little moisture accumulated on the map pocket (clear part), so some moisture had to leak through. Im going to pick up another tube of the stuff and give the whole front area of the bag a go-over and see if that helps..
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:11 AM   #73342
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
Go to ProTaper or Renthal's site (or RockyMountain) and compare all the bends and rises.

I am putting on Renthal RC Highs myself. Different bends for different folks.
Can someone point me to the stock measurements of DR650 bars? I bought mine with Renthal bars already on it, but still not tall enough. I would like to know how far they have been raised (if at all) before trying to go higher. I think the clutch cable from an RM or RMX is longer and fits. Anyone confirm that? Thanks
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:01 AM   #73343
Minsk99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
I'm looking at a tank bag too and am now interested in the giant Loop Fandango bag http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Giant-Loo...#ht_584wt_1085 which is waterproof (more than the worlfman tank bag).

How do you think they'd fit on the safari tank? I'm someone that likes to watch the speedo as much as possible but if its blocking my view of how fast I'm going, well it makes Mr Policeman more interested in me
I have the GL Diablo bag which is basically just a smaller Fandango. You might want to check that out as well. FYI, there are pictures on the GL web site that show a Fandango paired with a IMS on a DR. Also pictures of a Fandango on a Husky with a safari tank.





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Old 02-01-2013, 08:16 AM   #73344
DockingPilot
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I use this Seal Line bag. Fits nicely in the limited cockpit space, holds plenty and is waterproof. I have 2 Wolfman Enduro bags. Used them on other bikes. Tried it on the DR but they were too intrusive for me. This seal line bag is flatter.





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DockingPilot screwed with this post 02-01-2013 at 08:22 AM
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:41 AM   #73345
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post

Tell us more about that seat, looks wide & comfy.
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:45 AM   #73346
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket
Can someone point me to the stock measurements of DR650 bars? I bought mine with Renthal bars already on it, but still not tall enough. I would like to know how far they have been raised (if at all) before trying to go higher. I think the clutch cable from an RM or RMX is longer and fits. Anyone confirm that? Thanks
Here you go:

Width: 32.04"
Height: 3.11"
Pull Back: 2.32"

Renthal's RM Bend is an exact match. I believe it was $60 when I bought it from Rocky Mtn. ATV (part #: 1059960086 - silver). I also have 1" risers and am using stock cables.
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:58 AM   #73347
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Here you go:

Width: 32.04"
Height: 3.11"
Pull Back: 2.32"

Renthal's RM Bend is an exact match. I believe it was $60 when I bought it from Rocky Mtn. ATV (part #: 1059960086 - silver). I also have 1" risers and am using stock cables.
Thanks 638.
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:03 AM   #73348
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spotlight View Post
I have searched this thread until my eyes are bugged out. Has anyone changed their DR bars to the Pro Taper Woods High bends? if so what's your take any noticeable change. If there is a tread on this can someone direct me to it kinda a noob here.....great thread!
I have the Woods High Bend on my DR650. They're identical in bend to the stock bars. I added 4-1/2" of rise using the ROX 3-1/2" riser plus the 1" spacers from ProCycle. The stock cables are long enough if you reroute them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
How do you think they'd fit on the safari tank? I'm someone that likes to watch the speedo as much as possible but if its blocking my view of how fast I'm going, well it makes Mr Policeman more interested in me
It may block your view a bit; I don't notice because I watch my speed on my GPS.

Rob
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:05 AM   #73349
acesandeights
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What's the effect of lowering the front suspension slightly without the same in the rear, meaning what if the rear is stock and you lower the front by 1/2" - 1". Is it quicker or slower turn-in, or something else entirely?
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:26 AM   #73350
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
What's the effect of lowering the front suspension slightly without the same in the rear, meaning what if the rear is stock and you lower the front by 1/2" - 1". Is it quicker or slower turn-in, or something else entirely?
Supposedly it'll turn in a bit quicker if you lower the front while leaving the rear the same. But there's a point at which that's no longer the case.

My very first bike was a Kawasaki ER-6n (2009). I knew NOTHING about bikes or bike suspensions or anything at the time. While taking a riding class, the instructor asked to ride it and I said sure. He came back, said he liked it, but wished it turned in a little sharper. He noted that the tubes were already up against the bars, so we couldn't do that without some other changes, which I wasn't really into doing.

Fast forward a year and I traded it on a new Z1000 (I already had my DR650 at this point), and the Z1000's handling was just insane (as in great). It was like riding a scalpel compared to that ER-6n. While over at the dealer picking up some accessories, I happened to notice a new, leftover ER-6n on the showroom floor, same year as mine. I saw that the fork tubes on it were flush with the triple. Meaning mine had already been lowered! I did buy it used, though. But I really hated how the thing handled because it seemed to understeer into turns. It just didn't want to lay down, and made me very timid trying to ride at anything more than a gentle pace. I couldn't help but wonder if the previous owner had lowered it to try to make it turn in faster, but by going as far as he did (about 1"), he made it worse.

So the moral is... if you're gonna try it, do it a little bit at a time... like maybe 1/4" at a time.

Rob
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