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Old 02-01-2013, 07:28 PM   #73396
Carl Childers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezagm4 View Post
Ok.... so I'm lowering my DR today, did the rear no problem, going to raise the forks in the triple clamp... get everything all loosened up (top and bottom clamp) and they won't budge? Are there any tips and tricks or maybe something I missed?
Check the shop manual, there is a better way to lower the forks by swapping the internal fork spacers around than raising them in the trees.
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:34 PM   #73397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carl childers View Post
check the shop manual, there is a better way to lower the forks by swapping the internal fork spacers around than raising them in the trees.
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:12 PM   #73398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
The lowering of the rear also includes "flipping" the spring seat. Using an aftermarket spring may require using an aftermarket spring seat, which mine did. The aftermarket part does not offer the ability to "flip" it, so it won't lower the rear as much as you can with the stock spring and spring seat. The forks were lowered by putting the spacer under.
The flipping only limits the travel. It doesn't affect the height at all.
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:23 PM   #73399
Magnum Noel
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Quote:- So yeah.. now instead of riding tomorrow, I get to deal with wiring crap.
Thats a bummer
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:45 PM   #73400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailrider383 View Post
Did you loosen the clamp at the top of the fork boot?
Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
nice call.
BTDT
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:57 PM   #73401
Obard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Sounds like you got the valves wrong ... you may need to go round one more full rotation and back on your timing mark to get valves in correct position for adjustment. If set right ... they don't rattle very much.
Mis-adjusted valves won't affect your valve guides. About four hours shop labor to rebuild the head if you chose. If me, I'd just roll with it. You're nick name will be "Smokey Joe".
Ok, so putting the timing mark in the center of the inspection hole isn't exactly enough, right? I think what I am missing, is ensuring that it's tdc on the compression stroke. Please pardon my lack of knowledge, but, how do I know if it's the compression stroke?
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:41 PM   #73402
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After cleaning out the recess around the spark plugs thoroughly, remove the outer plug. Stick a straw into the hole, rotate the engine slowly (ccw) while wiggling the straw so it doesn't bind on the piston as it rises in the bore. At this TDC, wiggle the rocker arms (side to side, as you're unlikely to feel the small valve clearance with the oil cushioning it), if they're loose that's the TDC you want. Rotate the engine another 360* (straw at full extension again) and wiggle the rocker arms again, they should not wiggle, this is the wrong TDC. Do this two or three times until you're sure when the rockers are tight and when they're loose. Adjust the valves when both rockers are loose. Exact TDC (mark in the window), isn't necessary, as the valves are closed for many degrees on both sides of TDC.

Once you feel it, you're set for life. You can use a pencil instead of a straw, just remember to wiggle it as the piston rises or it might bind and break. Something flexible is safer, like a straw.
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Quote:
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 02-02-2013, 12:21 AM   #73403
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Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Bit the bullet today and bought my 790 kit!! Going to change out the clutch while I'm in there and check the NSU. I will post a thread\tutorial on here for anybody that is thinking about doing it.
i would be keen on a thread for this.
good luck with it.
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Old 02-02-2013, 01:49 AM   #73404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
Ok, so putting the timing mark in the center of the inspection hole isn't exactly enough, right? I think what I am missing, is ensuring that it's tdc on the compression stroke. Please pardon my lack of knowledge, but, how do I know if it's the compression stroke?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
After cleaning out the recess around the spark plugs thoroughly, remove the outer plug. Stick a straw into the hole, rotate the engine slowly (ccw) while wiggling the straw so it doesn't bind on the piston as it rises in the bore. At this TDC, wiggle the rocker arms (side to side, as you're unlikely to feel the small valve clearance with the oil cushioning it), if they're loose that's the TDC you want. Rotate the engine another 360* (straw at full extension again) and wiggle the rocker arms again, they should not wiggle, this is the wrong TDC. Do this two or three times until you're sure when the rockers are tight and when they're loose. Adjust the valves when both rockers are loose. Exact TDC (mark in the window), isn't necessary, as the valves are closed for many degrees on both sides of TDC.

Once you feel it, you're set for life. You can use a pencil instead of a straw, just remember to wiggle it as the piston rises or it might bind and break. Something flexible is safer, like a straw.
Here is how I do it, FWIW:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=371
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Old 02-02-2013, 06:37 AM   #73405
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The rockers will feel slightly loose at TDC. You should have a very small amount of play. If they are tight, your not on TDC.
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:33 AM   #73406
Obard
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Well I'm going to give it hell today. Thanks for all the helpful hints. Good news is I'm getting really quick at taking everything off and on. I've been trying to get these darn valves adjusted for months now. I think I'm getting close with last bit of info here on locating tdc(c).
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:44 AM   #73407
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Originally Posted by Obard View Post
Well I'm going to give it hell today. Thanks for all the helpful hints. Good news is I'm getting really quick at taking everything off and on. I've been trying to get these darn valves adjusted for months now. I think I'm getting close with last bit of info here on locating tdc(c).
Even better, with more familiarity you can consider tackling the blue smoke issue. It's probably nothing more then the valve seals which are cheap, but you will need a valve compressor tool which can be bought for less then $50. So for less then $100 you could fix the problem.
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:45 AM   #73408
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Got it done yesterday evening. Just had to slide the boot down to get a better grip. It really helped having the weight off the front wheel but it wasn't fun wrestling the beast to the ground...

I'm definitely aware I didn't do it the way the manual says, now that I know how to do it, I can reverse it in a few minutes... so we will see how it goes.

Thanks for all the tips
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:31 AM   #73409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Even better, with more familiarity you can consider tackling the blue smoke issue. It's probably nothing more then the valve seals which are cheap, but you will need a valve compressor tool which can be bought for less then $50. So for less then $100 you could fix the problem.
Do I have to yank the engine out to work on the valve seals? Nevermind don't tell me yet, we'll get there soon as I get the valves adjusted right.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:46 AM   #73410
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
The flipping only limits the travel. It doesn't affect the height at all.
The manual says it shortens the overall length, not just the travel. So you get 1.6" of ride height difference just between the two holes? The two holes are only about 5/8" apart. So, where's the other 1" come from? Not arguing here, just trying to learn. Holding the parts in my hands and looking at them, it looks like you'd limit travel and length by flipping the spring seat.
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