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Old 02-03-2013, 11:26 AM   #73456
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Again, thanks guys for the inspiration and pictures for valve clearance checks.

I just got done with it. The exhausts were fine at 7700 miles (which makes me think I did something wrong, but I'm not sure there really is any way the valves could find a position looser than the correct TDC one), and the intakes needed backed off.

The petcock is still free-flowing, but that will have to wait for attention on Thursday.
Nah, you probably did it right, been my experience the exhausts tend to get out of spec a lot less then the intakes.
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:42 AM   #73457
procycle
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
The petcock is still free-flowing, but that will have to wait for attention on Thursday.
The internal valve is stuck. They are not lubricated from the factory and a tiny bit of corrosion will make it stick. It's an easy fix. Disassemble the petcock, clean up everything, put a little grease on the piston and bore.
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:00 PM   #73458
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix View Post
OMG

So I replaced the wiring harness by myself in like an hour and a half AND IT RUNS. they failed in that task by telling me all this other shit was fucked up when it wasn't. Mother fuckers.......Those fuckers.
Tell us how you really feel.

Glad you found it so easy. Did you get a used harness? I had to do the same for my DR650 and found it easy, The only other trouble I had was the wires in the handlebar control for the starter button were all welded together, but with an aftermarket button assy and a wiring diagram I was able to make things right.
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:08 PM   #73459
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIGERRIDER007 View Post
Yesterday, I found a DR in my garage with a title so.....needs a couple of shoes.

Okay, don't groan too much because I've tried to search this thread, "tires" and it won't bring up any posts, maybe there are too many.....so sorry about asking......only seeking knowledge!

What tires do you all recommend for more off road performance?

I'd love to pay $50-75 for a front, for a decent performing tire, maybe not possible. I was looking at the Kendas K760, anybody have any experience with these??

Thanks
The Kenda TrakMaster II in my opinion is the most aggressive DOT knobby available for the rear. I really like the Bridgestone ED-03 for the front. DOT also. Prices for both fall in your range. I ride my DR 90% offroad. I found this combo very much to my liking.

On my KTM which is really my competition bike, I like the Pirelli Skorpion XCHM on the front. DOT also, but I haven't tried it on my heavy DR. I don't know how it would be on tar.
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Old 02-03-2013, 04:26 PM   #73460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Nah, you probably did it right, been my experience the exhausts tend to get out of spec a lot less then the intakes.
Thanks for making me feel better about it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
The internal valve is stuck. They are not lubricated from the factory and a tiny bit of corrosion will make it stick. It's an easy fix. Disassemble the petcock, clean up everything, put a little grease on the piston and bore.
Thank you a ton. I've never had a vacuum petcock apart before, but I have to imagine the piston is just what the vacuum sucks on to keep the valve open (or it is the valve itself). Grease... we must be talking a very thin grease here? I'm always a fan of using grease, but in this case... I may need to buy an appropriate grease. Maybe it's bigger than I'm imagining though, and regular grease won't faze it?

I just filled the tank up, so now I'm going to have to wait... or ... Hey, what size is the actual fuel tubing that fits on the petcock? I could go buy some tubing and drain it out into a fuel tank. But no fuel line I had here at the house was right for the petcock.
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Old 02-03-2013, 04:55 PM   #73461
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With adding led lights the 10w solstice lights work a treat.

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Old 02-03-2013, 09:22 PM   #73462
BadDogMax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phreakingeek View Post
For something like this, I always go the quick easy route before jumping to seal replacement. Do the film trick to see if there's some dirt or sand stuck in your fork seal (or use a Seal Mate if you have one). After you clean the seals, put the bike on a lift and pull the fork inards and fill to the proper level. Hopefully you wont see any more oil leaking. If you do, then you may have to go ahead and replace the seals. But at least you'll know for sure and won't have wasted too much time or money.
I did this today, and after a short ride there were no signs of further leaking. Hopefully it will stay fixed! The bike only has 6k miles and the fork tubes and dust seals look perfect.

Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:31 AM   #73463
TIGERRIDER007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
The Kenda TrakMaster II in my opinion is the most aggressive DOT knobby available for the rear. I really like the Bridgestone ED-03 for the front. DOT also. Prices for both fall in your range. I ride my DR 90% offroad. I found this combo very much to my liking.

On my KTM which is really my competition bike, I like the Pirelli Skorpion XCHM on the front. DOT also, but I haven't tried it on my heavy DR. I don't know how it would be on tar.
Thank you sir!
I appreciate the information, I was really leaning toward the Kendas as to never have ridden a DR off road to evaluate tire models, and the budget is tight right now in an attempt to get some dual sporting things so, try to save a little here and there...

Here is another quick question if you don't mind....is it better to have the handlebars lower or higher when riding off road?
I was thinking of putting some risers on the stock setup, so standing would be a little more comfortable, if necessary.

Thanks again, Rusty Rocket and DR crowd for good intel!
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:30 AM   #73464
TinMan207
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Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
I use this Seal Line bag.

just wondering how you mounted that bag. Waist strap under the seat perhaps?

I have the same one, and love it for kayaking. Seems a great, small, dry, tank bag option.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:43 AM   #73465
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIGERRIDER007 View Post
Thank you sir!
I appreciate the information, I was really leaning toward the Kendas as to never have ridden a DR off road to evaluate tire models, and the budget is tight right now in an attempt to get some dual sporting things so, try to save a little here and there...

Here is another quick question if you don't mind....is it better to have the handlebars lower or higher when riding off road?
I was thinking of putting some risers on the stock setup, so standing would be a little more comfortable, if necessary.

Thanks again, Rusty Rocket and DR crowd for good intel!
The stock handlebars are easily bendable steel,I found some handlebar clamps that not only raised the bars,still use the rubber mounts and they take the 1 and 1/8 Pro Taper style bar in a taller bend.
Im 6' tall and taller bars are much better for standing,lowering the footpegs help with this also.
Whole bike is more comfy on long trips with more leg room/taller bars. Then there's that stock seat............

Hunt the ADV classifieds for used Dual Purpose stuff,some great bargains from time to time.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:53 AM   #73466
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIGERRIDER007 View Post
...is it better to have the handlebars lower or higher when riding off road?
I was thinking of putting some risers on the stock setup, so standing would be a little more comfortable, if necessary.
I raised my bars on my KTM400 with 2" Rox Risers. Best thing I've done in a long time. (Cogent shock on my DR being the best).

2 things about raising the bars that went to my comfort. When standing with the old bars, I was kind of hunched over and I had to bend my neck back to look ahead, causing discomfort on a long ride. The other thing that was even worse was the inside edge of my thumb. The way my hands fell on the bars when standing put a lot of weight on the inner part of my thumb and "bruised" it. The bone was sore after riding. By raising the bars it put the weight on the palm. It also rocked my torso back some and I didn't have to bend my neck.

play with this and see http://cycle-ergo.com/

I like the Rox Risers because they are easily moved from bike to bike and aren't brand specific. and affordable.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ndlebar-Risers


good luck my friend.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:58 AM   #73467
TIGERRIDER007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I raised my bars on my KTM400 with 2" Rox Risers. Best thing I've done in a long time. (Cogent shock on my DR being the best).

2 things about raising the bars that went to my comfort. When standing with the old bars, I was kind of hunched over and I had to bend my neck back to look ahead, causing discomfort on a long ride. The other thing that was even worse was the inside edge of my thumb. The way my hands fell on the bars when standing put a lot of weight on the inner part of my thumb and "bruised" it. The bone was sore after riding. By raising the bars it put the weight on the palm. It also rocked my torso back some and I didn't have to bend my neck.

play with this and see http://cycle-ergo.com/

I like the Rox Risers because they are easily moved from bike to bike and aren't brand specific. and affordable.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ndlebar-Risers


good luck my friend.
Gotcha, I think I'll throw on my rox risers and a set of YZ handlebars, a tiny bit wider and less bend...I'll post a picture when I get a chance...not like anyone wants to see a stock 07' DR

Thanks again!
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:13 AM   #73468
Northyork
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Short video

A friend of mine sent me this 5 minute long video. I am sure you are going to enjoy it

LONG LIVE THE KINGS - Short film documentary - from SAGS on Vimeo.
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:55 AM   #73469
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIGERRIDER007 View Post
Here is another quick question if you don't mind....is it better to have the handlebars lower or higher when riding off road?
I was thinking of putting some risers on the stock setup, so standing would be a little more comfortable, if necessary.
I went almost 5" of rise on my DR. Get 'em as tall as you can, comfortably and realistically. When I changed handlebars, I went to FAT bars, so I used the ROX 3-1/2" riser. That wasn't quite enough so I added 1" spacers between the triple and factory bar mounts (from ProCycle). The good news is the factory cables and brake line are long enough if you reroute them (just barely). Although when I decide to replace all the lines, I will probably have longer ones made just for the sake of having some more flexibility.

Rob
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Old 02-04-2013, 11:37 AM   #73470
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
I went almost 5" of rise on my DR. Get 'em as tall as you can, comfortably and realistically. When I changed handlebars, I went to FAT bars, so I used the ROX 3-1/2" riser. That wasn't quite enough so I added 1" spacers between the triple and factory bar mounts (from ProCycle). The good news is the factory cables and brake line are long enough if you reroute them (just barely). Although when I decide to replace all the lines, I will probably have longer ones made just for the sake of having some more flexibility.

Rob
Having a bit of bar rise is good for tall guys, also good going from seated to standing position. It makes the move easier. The trade off is, if bar rise is TOO HIGH, then it's more difficult to get UP and over the bars ... in the "Attack" position. This position isn't just for racing.

It's helpful riding over rough terrain off road, in deep sand and on hill climbs. Also good for increasing front tire BITE on off camber, down hill fire roads ... or the like. Getting up over the bars puts more rider weight over the front tire.

Those with Moto or Enduro back ground will get this. Noobs should experiment with position ... learn how rider position really affects handling off road.
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