the DR650 thread

[acesandeights]

What's the effect of lowering the front suspension slightly without the same in the rear, meaning what if the rear is stock and you lower the front by 1/2" - 1". Is it quicker or slower turn-in, or something else entirely?

[Rob.G]

Originally Posted by acesandeights

What's the effect of lowering the front suspension slightly without the same in the rear, meaning what if the rear is stock and you lower the front by 1/2" - 1". Is it quicker or slower turn-in, or something else entirely?

Supposedly it'll turn in a bit quicker if you lower the front while leaving the rear the same. But there's a point at which that's no longer the case.

My very first bike was a Kawasaki ER-6n (2009). I knew NOTHING about bikes or bike suspensions or anything at the time. While taking a riding class, the instructor asked to ride it and I said sure. He came back, said he liked it, but wished it turned in a little sharper. He noted that the tubes were already up against the bars, so we couldn't do that without some other changes, which I wasn't really into doing.

Fast forward a year and I traded it on a new Z1000 (I already had my DR650 at this point), and the Z1000's handling was just insane (as in great). It was like riding a scalpel compared to that ER-6n. While over at the dealer picking up some accessories, I happened to notice a new, leftover ER-6n on the showroom floor, same year as mine. I saw that the fork tubes on it were flush with the triple. Meaning mine had already been lowered! I did buy it used, though. But I really hated how the thing handled because it seemed to understeer into turns. It just didn't want to lay down, and made me very timid trying to ride at anything more than a gentle pace. I couldn't help but wonder if the previous owner had lowered it to try to make it turn in faster, but by going as far as he did (about 1"), he made it worse.

So the moral is... if you're gonna try it, do it a little bit at a time... like maybe 1/4" at a time.

Rob

[pjensen641]

Originally Posted by acesandeights

What's the effect of lowering the front suspension slightly without the same in the rear, meaning what if the rear is stock and you lower the front by 1/2" - 1". Is it quicker or slower turn-in, or something else entirely?

Lowering typically helps keep the front planted and reduces wash out. Quicker steering. Its the same principle as sitting up by the gas tank when turning in the dirt.

I'm told too much lowering can increase tenancy to get in to a tank slapper, but never experienced that myself. Also too much lowering plus soft springs can lead to a front end tuck when in the loose stuff in turns.

I typically lower all my dual-sport front ends by 3/8-3/4". It helps turn in and overall stability on dirt/gravel. 1" is a bit excessive. At some point you will lower enough that your dust seals and upper edge of the fork tube will run in to the lower triple clamp instead of bottoming out in the oil lock piece. Not only would this be very jarring, but would probably damage something. If I lower more than 1/2" i typically pull the springs and let the fork collapse all the way down to check that the fork seals will not impact the lower triple.

[Northyork]

Hi, I have sold my DR650, moved on to a KTM 990 Adventure. DR650 is a great bike, it gave me lots of satisfactions, but it was time to try something new. Anyhow I have a whole bunch of accessories for sale.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20627086&postcount=1

Link stop working I had to re-do it

[acesandeights]

Thanks. After having my suspension rebuilt; emulators, springs, rear shock shaft assembly and spring, it seems my bike turns in much faster. My bike was factory lowered at the time I bought it and I rode it that way for over a year.

I don't think the aftermarket rear shock assembly allows for the rear to be lowered as much as it's capable of being lowered with stock parts and it got me thinking that maybe it's slightly taller in the rear than it was, while the front is lowered the same as it was prior to having the suspension work done. It wouldn't be much of a difference, but I thought it might account for part of the difference in turn-in. I guess I had too much changed at once to pin it down exactly. The bike just rides much more like a dirt bike than it did.

[Rob.G]

Originally Posted by acesandeights

Thanks. After having my suspension rebuilt; emulators, springs, rear shock shaft assembly and spring, it seems my bike turns in much faster. My bike was factory lowered at the time I bought it and I rode it that way for over a year.

I don't think the aftermarket rear shock assembly allows for the rear to be lowered as much as it's capable of being lowered with stock parts and it got me thinking that maybe it's slightly taller in the rear than it was, while the front is lowered the same as it was prior to having the suspension work done. It wouldn't be much of a difference, but I thought it might account for part of the difference in turn-in. I guess I had too much changed at once to pin it down exactly. The bike just rides much more like a dirt bike than it did.

The lowering for the rear is all in which hole you put the bolt through... that shouldn't have changed with the rebuild.

When your forks were done, did the guy put the spacer on top (stock ride height) or under the damper rod (lowered)?

Rob

[sandwash]

Good handlebar spec info here:
http://drriders.com/topic497.html#p3688

[eakins]

Hey Jeff - ProCycle,

Do you offer shorter or have found shorter fork boots that compensate when using a fork brace? The stock boots have to be pushed up a good bit to sit above the fork brace. Do your aftermarket fork boots fit better with a fork brace?

Thanks Bill

ps if you can find the supplier for this cap http://www.vstroma.com/oilfillercap.htm it fits the DR perfectly (the exact same cap used on the DR & Vstrom. i compared when i owned both bikes at the same time) and this cap is a great security cap for RTW travelers. have it on my bike - see pic below.

here are the pricier options:
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/1...rom-DL650-1000
http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/P...rom-DL650-1000

[Rob.G]

Originally Posted by eakins

Hey Jeff - ProCycle,

Do you offer shorter or have found shorter fork boots that compensate when using a fork brace? The stock boots have to be pushed up a good bit to sit above the fork brace. Do your aftermarket fork boots fit better with a fork brace?

Thanks Bill

Replace 'em with the neoprene fork skins instead. I use those and love 'em.

Word of caution -- if you're running the factory lowered setup, the fork brace will likely hit the underside of your fender. I discovered this the hard way; ended up selling off the brace.

Rob

[DockingPilot]

Originally Posted by vfr870

Tell us more about that seat, looks wide & comfy.

It's a Fischer custom. I like it a lot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[eakins]

Originally Posted by Northyork

Hi, I have sold my DR650, move on to a KTM 990 Adventure. DR650 is a great bike, it gave me lots of satisfactions, but it was time to try something new. Anyhow I have a whole bunch of accessories for sale.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=27

oh that gsxr muffler is rare find.

[Minsk99]

Originally Posted by Northyork

Hi, I have sold my DR650, move on to a KTM 990 Adventure. DR650 is a great bike, it gave me lots of satisfactions, but it was time to try something new. Anyhow I have a whole bunch of accessories for sale.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=27

PM sent about AMP oil guard

[3DChief]

Originally Posted by Thumper Dan

I'm looking at a tank bag too and am now interested in the giant Loop Fandango bag http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Giant-Loo...#ht_584wt_1085 which is waterproof (more than the worlfman tank bag).

How do you think they'd fit on the safari tank? I'm someone that likes to watch the speedo as much as possible but if its blocking my view of how fast I'm going, well it makes Mr Policeman more interested in me

You won't have any problems seeing the speedo at all with the Fandango. Mine is on an IMS tank, but don't think the Safari is any higher and both tanks position the bag far enough back that it isn't anywhere near the line of sight. I'm also a speedo watcher and have never had any issues with it.

Here's a pic of mine set up for riding the TAT last summer and you can see how low the front of the bag is compared to the bars and speedo:



Tim

[Northyork]

[QUOTE=Northyork;20625936]Hi, I have sold my DR650, move on to a KTM 990 Adventure. DR650 is a great bike, it gave me lots of satisfactions, but it was time to try something new. Anyhow I have a whole bunch of accessories for sale.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...86&postcount=1/QUOTE]


A few people pmed me about the GSXR can. I will answer all your questions here. It is the GSXR can out of a 2001 GSXR 1000 model number X40F0X, it comes with Kientech midpipe and muffler bracket.
The black dot on the side of the muffler is from the rubber bumper on the number plate

[Minsk99]

Originally Posted by 3DChief

You won't have any problems seeing the speedo at all with the Fandango. Mine is on an IMS tank, but don't think the Safari is any higher and both tanks position the bag far enough back that it isn't anywhere near the line of sight. I'm also a speedo watcher and have never had any issues with it.

Here's a pic of mine set up for riding the TAT last summer and you can see how low the front of the bag is compared to the bars and speedo:



Tim

What type of gas cap are you using with that setup? Did you get a self-venting cap or is the bag positioned behind the gas cap?