ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-09-2013, 11:44 PM   #73591
Kommando
Beastly Adventurer
 
Kommando's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 7,374
Quote:
Originally Posted by majorfaller View Post
I just discovered this thread and I am sure this has been addressed but I could not find it. My 2006 DR650 eats rear tires. Best I get is 5000 miles. Any recommendations? I am probably 80/20 street to dirt.
Kenda K761. Some people get 10K miles out of the rear. I get over 6K miles out of a $65 130/80-17 rear, but I add more grooving and I change early. Some tires last longer, but they're usually all-pavement and/or $$$.

The front K761s don't seem to wear as evenly. I run a dirtier $28 Shinko 244 up front for mostly pavement, swapping in a front knobby for mostly dirt. The 244 can also be flipped around to even out wear.
Kommando is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 01:40 AM   #73592
canoli
human
 
canoli's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Not from round these parts.
Oddometer: 1,691
Anyone have a link that shows how to replace the brake pads (both front & back)? Never done it before but it needs to be done...soon.

Thanks,
Canoli
canoli is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 02:21 AM   #73593
Kommando
Beastly Adventurer
 
Kommando's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 7,374
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
First, thanks to the person who suggested the Aerostich tent pole sack, that's a great idea!

But... I removed the skinny tube today and replaced it with a fullsize one. I got to thinking about it last night, and thought maybe I could fit the big one in there, as I had seen other people do it before... just was never sure how. So with a little fiddling and a new bracket, the regular-sized one is in place. This is perfect since all of my most commonly-used tools are in there, in a nice zipper pouch from Walmart ($5). It eliminated the need for my Wolfman fender toolbag... which is nice, but is hard to get into, and it isn't waterproof, so your tools end up all rusty.

Rob
I used just a straight piece of PVC (3"ID), cut to about 18-19". I wrapped a supply of black ductape around the white PVC, to make it less conspicuous, then glued an endcap on the end that's under the side plastic. You may want to sand some material off the sides of this endcap, as it pushes on the inner and outer plastics a bit. I put an endcap on the other end and drilled a 3/8" hole through everything, approximately .75" from the inside edge of the cap. I slid a 3/8" x 4" hitchpin through this with a 3/8" sealing rubber/stainless washer on each side, and put a small padlock through the hole in the hitchpin. I used modified PVC-hanging clamps to mount it to the stock tooltube bracket and the bracket for the helmet lock. I backed the screws with nylock nuts.

The Aerostich tent-pole bag is skinny enough to fit 2 into my tooltube, but I have a larger nylon bag from a former tent. This one fits a 3"ID about perfectly.
Kommando is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 03:11 AM   #73594
greer
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Glasgow, Kentucky
Oddometer: 3,768
Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperboarder View Post
Me and my DR are not getting along right now. 99, mostly stock, and after sitting in the garage for a bit, just refusing to start. The battery was not great before I forgot to put it on the tender, so I replaced it with a Motobatt. It will fire and run for about 3-6 seconds on full choke, but dies after that. It's got spark, it's got compression, no gas in the airbox, any ideas? About to pull the carb to give it a good once over.

While you're piddling with it, check that little bitty filter in the carb inlet elbow; that thing is apt to cause trouble at some point.

Sarah
__________________
'08 DR650
greer is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 04:28 AM   #73595
eakins
Butler Maps
 
eakins's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oddometer: 18,647
Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
Thanks for the link and pics. Question ... is the gas cap cutout big enough for a standard IMS gap with shorty vent tube and Procycle check valve? The vent probably sticks about 1.5" above the IMS cap. Is there only one Acerbis cap with integrated vent ... their web site seems down and some retailers show caps that look different than your picture. Also some forums mention the threads are close but not exact, etc.

Thanks - dman
your welcome.

rannier runner said he's using it just fine but i find when I have the Fandango tankk bag loaded with stuff the front area is pressing right on top of the gas cap. the vent area (lock area) still is exposed some on the front and I have not had any issue with the tang bag creating a seal up there so air (& thus fuel) can not be pulled in however. there is plenty of natural design area for any cap but I'm thinking a vent will be crammed (bent over and pinched tight?) in there. see all pictures here again http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=76 obviously it's working for RR.

i went with the acerbis cap for security reasons but it also eliminates having a vent sticking up. you can lock the cap or have it work unlocked like a normal cap.

the stock acerbis cap pulls in air but does not vent out (like oem caps that do not leak when dumped & does not leak vapor). because it does not vent out, the IMS gets hot from the engine and rock hard as the gas expands. this concerned me how hard the tank got (as a side benefit however the fuel capacity is up now ) as I was worried about blown out tank seams or fuel pushing unnaturally into the carb.

ProCycle posted how to fix this. you screw out the inside green piece and pierce the inner rubber 1 way bladder with a needle so it vents out some. it did this and went a step farther and drilled that hole with the smallest drill bit. now when i blow out the bottom a resistant but very small flow of air heads out the top of the cap at the lock area. I dumped the bike since with full gas tank and it was basically 1 drop of gas that came out with the bike sitting on its side. the tank is no longer rock hard from expanded gas.

IMO a modified Acerbis locking gas cap on an IMS (or Acerbis) tank is the way to go for several different reason. http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#bodyframe
__________________
Butler Maps - motorcycle maps for riders by riders -
Alaska
NM map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
Butler Maps website:
http://www.butlermaps.com

eakins screwed with this post 02-10-2013 at 04:33 AM
eakins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 07:04 AM   #73596
Emmbeedee
Procrastinators
 
Emmbeedee's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 9,598
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989THEARK View Post
Unfortunately the aquabox is the only case with mount system that will work for my phone.
my charging cable plugs into the side of the phone requiring about another half inch.

But for all the things you have tried that didnt work.

whats your setup right now?
or what have you tried and DID work.
you suggested a baggie.
is that what your running?

rainy season is coming i want this problem solved before it becomes a problem
This is my current setup.



I gave up trying to make non-waterproof units into things they're not.
__________________
Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
Want to know more about the Garmin VIRB? See here.
"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
Emmbeedee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 08:08 AM   #73597
Carl Childers
Ghost in the Machine
 
Carl Childers's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Northern New Mexico
Oddometer: 682
Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
While you're piddling with it, check that little bitty filter in the carb inlet elbow; that thing is apt to cause trouble at some point.

Sarah
+1

When I did my air box and re-jet I was disappointed with the amount of dirt I found in the diaphragm / slide area of the carburetor , I had always kept the original secondary filter clean and checked the foam for holes yet there was way more dirt in the carb than there should have been. My recommendation is change the stocker out for an after market sooner than later to avoid wear in the carb, especially if do any amount of dirt riding.
__________________
New Mexico, not really new, not really Mexico.
Carl Childers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 08:11 AM   #73598
Emmbeedee
Procrastinators
 
Emmbeedee's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
Oddometer: 9,598
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
+1

When I did my air box and re-jet I was disappointed with the amount of dirt I found in the diaphragm / slide area of the carburetor , I had always kept the original secondary filter clean and checked the foam for holes yet there was way more dirt in the carb than there should have been. My recommendation is change the stocker out for an after market sooner than later to avoid wear in the carb, especially if do any amount of dirt riding.
That's not the same filter she's talking about. She means the one in the fuel line elbow at the carb.
__________________
Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
Want to know more about the Garmin VIRB? See here.
"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.

Emmbeedee screwed with this post 02-10-2013 at 08:31 AM
Emmbeedee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 09:23 AM   #73599
hyperboarder
Potato Farmer
 
hyperboarder's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Meridian, ID
Oddometer: 1,024
Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
If it still idles poorly, the pilot jet is likely to be clogged.

Nobody unscrewed the idle speed screw or closed the fuel screw while you weren't looking, right?

Regards,

Derek
That's my thought, time to pull the carb and give it a good once over.

Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
While you're piddling with it, check that little bitty filter in the carb inlet elbow; that thing is apt to cause trouble at some point.

Sarah
Ditched that long ago in favor of an in line. I'm going to give the fuel lines a good check too, make sure they're clear, but I don't expect that's the problem.
__________________
Current: 08 Yamaha WR250R, 05 Suzuki DL1000, 92 Ford E250 Motohauler
Gone but not forgotten: 2008 KLR650, 2000 GSXR1000, 1999 ZX6R, 2000 GSXF600, 2004 Ural Tourist, 99 Suzuki DR650

Quarter Life Crisis 2011 Ural National Rally
hyperboarder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 09:55 AM   #73600
kbuckey
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Lookout Mountain - above Golden, CO
Oddometer: 833
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post


Ahh, keep doing what you are doing...I've never gotten 5000 miles out of a rear tire on ANY motorcycle I have owned. My DR is usually due around 3500-4000 depending on the tire.


I'm sure someone will come along saying they get 10K... they must count miles hauled on the trailer or something.
Amusing. I guess I'm just a wuss 'cause my mileage has been
Tourance: 10519 miles
Tourance: 8997
Tourance: 9773
Bridgestone Trailwing 21/22 (emergency replacement somewhere in N. CA.): 6178
Tourances currently on the bike: 9842 - have the replacements waiting to go on.

None of it "on a trailer."
kbuckey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 10:01 AM   #73601
1989THEARK
Gnarly Adventurer
 
1989THEARK's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2012
Location: Moreno Valley Ca
Oddometer: 331
Cool2

Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Anyone have a link that shows how to replace the brake pads (both front & back)? Never done it before but it needs to be done...soon.

Thanks,
Canoli

I know this is a vague answer. but if you have ever done brakes on a car.

there isnt anything more you need to know. take off the caliper.

push the piston in with the old brake pad(if you dont have a piston depressor)

remove old pads.

pop in new pads.

slightly (SLIGHTLY!!) grease any point that the brake pad slides on.

RE-Mount and call it good.

remember that new pads dont stop you very quickly so take it i easy.

if you have a good wire brush.

spin your wheel and scrub that rotor so create a little more friction against the pads to brake in quicker.

i've bin doing this for a long time.

some manufacturers even tell you to do it but thats more on cars. never really seen it said on motorcycles
1989THEARK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 10:09 AM   #73602
Rob.G
Mostly Harmless
 
Rob.G's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
Oddometer: 2,166
Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Anyone have a link that shows how to replace the brake pads (both front & back)? Never done it before but it needs to be done...soon.
I don't recall any specific photos, but it's easy. For the fronts, remove the caliper (two 12mm bolts), and then snap the old pads out and the new ones in. Remove the reservoir cap and see if you can press the piston back in with your fingers. If not, you may have to crack the bleeder on the caliper to do it, but it'll get a little messy if you do, since some fluid will squirt out.

On the rear, the easiest method is to remove the rear wheel, though I managed to change mine once with it on the bike... I don't quite remember how though.

Rob
__________________
'12 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
'96 Suzuki DR650
'92 Yamaha TW200
Rob.G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 10:40 AM   #73603
Lil' Steve
PussyWagon™ Chauffer
 
Lil' Steve's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: NYC, AZ
Oddometer: 3,971
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
On the rear, the easiest method is to remove the rear wheel, though I managed to change mine once with it on the bike... I don't quite remember how though.

Rob

Removing the rear wheel to change the rear brake pads is not the easiest method. There are ony 2 brake pins that have to be removed, then slide the pads out. No need to remove the wheel.
__________________
Steve
13 PCX150, 07 KLX250S w/300 kit, 05 DR650SE, 01 FZ-1
99 VFR800 w/870 kit, 96 GPz1100, 87 CH250
Lil' Steve is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 11:21 AM   #73604
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,584
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
When I did my air box and re-jet I was disappointed with the amount of dirt I found in the diaphragm / slide area of the carburetor , I had always kept the original secondary filter clean and checked the foam for holes yet there was way more dirt in the carb than there should have been.
What color & consistency was the dirt?

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 11:28 AM   #73605
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,584
Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
While you're piddling with it, check that little bitty filter in the carb inlet elbow; that thing is apt to cause trouble at some point.
True, except fuel filters get more restricted as dirt accumulates, which is generally a gradual process (i.e. no clogging completely all at once). That means that the symptoms will first manifest with the fuel being consumed more quickly than it can be replaced at large openings/high rpm.

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 03:57 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2015