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Old 02-09-2013, 08:06 PM   #73606
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
i didn't screw myself going w/the sm wheels - i wanted a motard!

i will consider your location adwice for a strap - it will have to be in a similar location, as there are no passenger pegs. and thanks to everyone else for their suggestions. not sure i wanna be shortening the center stand, but we'll see how it goes. a board under the rear wheel looks to be the easy ticket for garage work...

doug s.
Not screwed ... Motard is good
My wording was wrong ... I just meant a center stand may be tough to deploy. I've done this on bikes heavier and more unwieldy than the DR. I try to park on a slight slope. Park Nose UPHILL ... then let her roll back, use momentum and once moving wham that foot perch down on the stand hard and try to get her up all the way.

Left hand on left bar, right hand on strap (or rack or whatever) roll her back and pop her up.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:31 PM   #73607
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Not screwed ... Motard is good
My wording was wrong ... I just meant a center stand may be tough to deploy. I've done this on bikes heavier and more unwieldy than the DR. I try to park on a slight slope. Park Nose UPHILL ... then let her roll back, use momentum and once moving wham that foot perch down on the stand hard and try to get her up all the way.

Left hand on left bar, right hand on strap (or rack or whatever) roll her back and pop her up.
i know the technique; as i said, w/no side stand on my 525lb dry duc darmah, it's the only way you can park it. i am surprised the dr650 is such a struggle...


i think i need to find a way to locate a grab point lower and/or further forward than the rear rack on my dr650.

doug s.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:42 PM   #73608
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Me and my DR are not getting along right now. 99, mostly stock, and after sitting in the garage for a bit, just refusing to start. The battery was not great before I forgot to put it on the tender, so I replaced it with a Motobatt. It will fire and run for about 3-6 seconds on full choke, but dies after that. It's got spark, it's got compression, no gas in the airbox, any ideas? About to pull the carb to give it a good once over.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:47 PM   #73609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperboarder View Post
Me and my DR are not getting along right now. 99, mostly stock, and after sitting in the garage for a bit, just refusing to start. The battery was not great before I forgot to put it on the tender, so I replaced it with a Motobatt. It will fire and run for about 3-6 seconds on full choke, but dies after that. It's got spark, it's got compression, no gas in the airbox, any ideas? About to pull the carb to give it a good once over.
Before you start tearing it apart use the float bowl drain screw to drain the old stale fuel out of the carb. Put the petcock on prime to get fresh stuff in there. Then see if it will start OK.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:56 PM   #73610
hyperboarder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Before you start tearing it apart use the float bowl drain screw to drain the old stale fuel out of the carb. Put the petcock on prime to get fresh stuff in there. Then see if it will start OK.
IMS tank so manual petcock. I'll try draining the carb though, see what happens.
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:05 PM   #73611
Rainier_runner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
Thanks for the link and pics. Question ... is the gas cap cutout big enough for a standard IMS gap with shorty vent tube and Procycle check valve? The vent probably sticks about 1.5" above the IMS cap. Is there only one Acerbis cap with integrated vent ... their web site seems down and some retailers show caps that look different than your picture. Also some forums mention the threads are close but not exact, etc.

Thanks - dman
I've been running the IMS tank and Giant Loop for well over a year, close to two. No need to change fuel caps. The IMS cap with shorty tube works absolutely great.
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:59 PM   #73612
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperboarder View Post
IMS tank so manual petcock. I'll try draining the carb though, see what happens.
If it still idles poorly, the pilot jet is likely to be clogged.

Nobody unscrewed the idle speed screw or closed the fuel screw while you weren't looking, right?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:06 PM   #73613
1989THEARK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I had two sizes of the RAM Aqua boxes and I hated them. They were too big and heavy for what they were and electronics inside the boxes heated up far more than they should be run at. And it wasn't even that hot on the days I tried.

This was the Aqua box with a Garmin 295W I had at the time.



And this is the Arkon box I also bought to try, and also hated. I had the 295W in it to show the relative sizes of things. This shot shows how the case is made.


Granted, the Aqua boxes were fairly waterproof when used with the baffled cable entry point under the box.

But I wouldn't waste any money on either one. Just happy I was able to get rid of them.

A good baggie with a RAM mount would be just as useful, IMHO.

Unfortunately the aquabox is the only case with mount system that will work for my phone.
my charging cable plugs into the side of the phone requiring about another half inch.

But for all the things you have tried that didnt work.

whats your setup right now?
or what have you tried and DID work.
you suggested a baggie.
is that what your running?

rainy season is coming i want this problem solved before it becomes a problem
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:32 PM   #73614
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popsbronco View Post
I purchased the AD bouvin Explorer smart terrain system. Thought I would share it with you DR lovers.
I'd love to hear how this works on a DR...modded or otherwise.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:44 PM   #73615
Kommando
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Originally Posted by majorfaller View Post
I just discovered this thread and I am sure this has been addressed but I could not find it. My 2006 DR650 eats rear tires. Best I get is 5000 miles. Any recommendations? I am probably 80/20 street to dirt.
Kenda K761. Some people get 10K miles out of the rear. I get over 6K miles out of a $65 130/80-17 rear, but I add more grooving and I change early. Some tires last longer, but they're usually all-pavement and/or $$$.

The front K761s don't seem to wear as evenly. I run a dirtier $28 Shinko 244 up front for mostly pavement, swapping in a front knobby for mostly dirt. The 244 can also be flipped around to even out wear.
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:40 AM   #73616
canoli
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Anyone have a link that shows how to replace the brake pads (both front & back)? Never done it before but it needs to be done...soon.

Thanks,
Canoli
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:21 AM   #73617
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
First, thanks to the person who suggested the Aerostich tent pole sack, that's a great idea!

But... I removed the skinny tube today and replaced it with a fullsize one. I got to thinking about it last night, and thought maybe I could fit the big one in there, as I had seen other people do it before... just was never sure how. So with a little fiddling and a new bracket, the regular-sized one is in place. This is perfect since all of my most commonly-used tools are in there, in a nice zipper pouch from Walmart ($5). It eliminated the need for my Wolfman fender toolbag... which is nice, but is hard to get into, and it isn't waterproof, so your tools end up all rusty.

Rob
I used just a straight piece of PVC (3"ID), cut to about 18-19". I wrapped a supply of black ductape around the white PVC, to make it less conspicuous, then glued an endcap on the end that's under the side plastic. You may want to sand some material off the sides of this endcap, as it pushes on the inner and outer plastics a bit. I put an endcap on the other end and drilled a 3/8" hole through everything, approximately .75" from the inside edge of the cap. I slid a 3/8" x 4" hitchpin through this with a 3/8" sealing rubber/stainless washer on each side, and put a small padlock through the hole in the hitchpin. I used modified PVC-hanging clamps to mount it to the stock tooltube bracket and the bracket for the helmet lock. I backed the screws with nylock nuts.

The Aerostich tent-pole bag is skinny enough to fit 2 into my tooltube, but I have a larger nylon bag from a former tent. This one fits a 3"ID about perfectly.
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:11 AM   #73618
greer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperboarder View Post
Me and my DR are not getting along right now. 99, mostly stock, and after sitting in the garage for a bit, just refusing to start. The battery was not great before I forgot to put it on the tender, so I replaced it with a Motobatt. It will fire and run for about 3-6 seconds on full choke, but dies after that. It's got spark, it's got compression, no gas in the airbox, any ideas? About to pull the carb to give it a good once over.

While you're piddling with it, check that little bitty filter in the carb inlet elbow; that thing is apt to cause trouble at some point.

Sarah
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:28 AM   #73619
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dman View Post
Thanks for the link and pics. Question ... is the gas cap cutout big enough for a standard IMS gap with shorty vent tube and Procycle check valve? The vent probably sticks about 1.5" above the IMS cap. Is there only one Acerbis cap with integrated vent ... their web site seems down and some retailers show caps that look different than your picture. Also some forums mention the threads are close but not exact, etc.

Thanks - dman
your welcome.

rannier runner said he's using it just fine but i find when I have the Fandango tankk bag loaded with stuff the front area is pressing right on top of the gas cap. the vent area (lock area) still is exposed some on the front and I have not had any issue with the tang bag creating a seal up there so air (& thus fuel) can not be pulled in however. there is plenty of natural design area for any cap but I'm thinking a vent will be crammed (bent over and pinched tight?) in there. see all pictures here again http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=76 obviously it's working for RR.

i went with the acerbis cap for security reasons but it also eliminates having a vent sticking up. you can lock the cap or have it work unlocked like a normal cap.

the stock acerbis cap pulls in air but does not vent out (like oem caps that do not leak when dumped & does not leak vapor). because it does not vent out, the IMS gets hot from the engine and rock hard as the gas expands. this concerned me how hard the tank got (as a side benefit however the fuel capacity is up now ) as I was worried about blown out tank seams or fuel pushing unnaturally into the carb.

ProCycle posted how to fix this. you screw out the inside green piece and pierce the inner rubber 1 way bladder with a needle so it vents out some. it did this and went a step farther and drilled that hole with the smallest drill bit. now when i blow out the bottom a resistant but very small flow of air heads out the top of the cap at the lock area. I dumped the bike since with full gas tank and it was basically 1 drop of gas that came out with the bike sitting on its side. the tank is no longer rock hard from expanded gas.

IMO a modified Acerbis locking gas cap on an IMS (or Acerbis) tank is the way to go for several different reason. http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#bodyframe
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eakins screwed with this post 02-10-2013 at 03:33 AM
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:04 AM   #73620
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1989THEARK View Post
Unfortunately the aquabox is the only case with mount system that will work for my phone.
my charging cable plugs into the side of the phone requiring about another half inch.

But for all the things you have tried that didnt work.

whats your setup right now?
or what have you tried and DID work.
you suggested a baggie.
is that what your running?

rainy season is coming i want this problem solved before it becomes a problem
This is my current setup.



I gave up trying to make non-waterproof units into things they're not.
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