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Old 02-10-2013, 09:23 AM   #73606
hyperboarder
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Location: Meridian, ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
If it still idles poorly, the pilot jet is likely to be clogged.

Nobody unscrewed the idle speed screw or closed the fuel screw while you weren't looking, right?

Regards,

Derek
That's my thought, time to pull the carb and give it a good once over.

Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
While you're piddling with it, check that little bitty filter in the carb inlet elbow; that thing is apt to cause trouble at some point.

Sarah
Ditched that long ago in favor of an in line. I'm going to give the fuel lines a good check too, make sure they're clear, but I don't expect that's the problem.
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:55 AM   #73607
kbuckey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post


Ahh, keep doing what you are doing...I've never gotten 5000 miles out of a rear tire on ANY motorcycle I have owned. My DR is usually due around 3500-4000 depending on the tire.


I'm sure someone will come along saying they get 10K... they must count miles hauled on the trailer or something.
Amusing. I guess I'm just a wuss 'cause my mileage has been
Tourance: 10519 miles
Tourance: 8997
Tourance: 9773
Bridgestone Trailwing 21/22 (emergency replacement somewhere in N. CA.): 6178
Tourances currently on the bike: 9842 - have the replacements waiting to go on.

None of it "on a trailer."
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:01 AM   #73608
1989THEARK
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Location: Moreno Valley Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Anyone have a link that shows how to replace the brake pads (both front & back)? Never done it before but it needs to be done...soon.

Thanks,
Canoli

I know this is a vague answer. but if you have ever done brakes on a car.

there isnt anything more you need to know. take off the caliper.

push the piston in with the old brake pad(if you dont have a piston depressor)

remove old pads.

pop in new pads.

slightly (SLIGHTLY!!) grease any point that the brake pad slides on.

RE-Mount and call it good.

remember that new pads dont stop you very quickly so take it i easy.

if you have a good wire brush.

spin your wheel and scrub that rotor so create a little more friction against the pads to brake in quicker.

i've bin doing this for a long time.

some manufacturers even tell you to do it but thats more on cars. never really seen it said on motorcycles
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:09 AM   #73609
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Anyone have a link that shows how to replace the brake pads (both front & back)? Never done it before but it needs to be done...soon.
I don't recall any specific photos, but it's easy. For the fronts, remove the caliper (two 12mm bolts), and then snap the old pads out and the new ones in. Remove the reservoir cap and see if you can press the piston back in with your fingers. If not, you may have to crack the bleeder on the caliper to do it, but it'll get a little messy if you do, since some fluid will squirt out.

On the rear, the easiest method is to remove the rear wheel, though I managed to change mine once with it on the bike... I don't quite remember how though.

Rob
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:40 AM   #73610
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
On the rear, the easiest method is to remove the rear wheel, though I managed to change mine once with it on the bike... I don't quite remember how though.

Rob

Removing the rear wheel to change the rear brake pads is not the easiest method. There are ony 2 brake pins that have to be removed, then slide the pads out. No need to remove the wheel.
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:21 AM   #73611
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Childers View Post
When I did my air box and re-jet I was disappointed with the amount of dirt I found in the diaphragm / slide area of the carburetor , I had always kept the original secondary filter clean and checked the foam for holes yet there was way more dirt in the carb than there should have been.
What color & consistency was the dirt?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:28 AM   #73612
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
While you're piddling with it, check that little bitty filter in the carb inlet elbow; that thing is apt to cause trouble at some point.
True, except fuel filters get more restricted as dirt accumulates, which is generally a gradual process (i.e. no clogging completely all at once). That means that the symptoms will first manifest with the fuel being consumed more quickly than it can be replaced at large openings/high rpm.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:41 AM   #73613
Escaped
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I also get excellent mileage out of Tourances.


QUOTE=kbuckey;20692600]Amusing. I guess I'm just a wuss 'cause my mileage has been
Tourance: 10519 miles
Tourance: 8997
Tourance: 9773
Bridgestone Trailwing 21/22 (emergency replacement somewhere in N. CA.): 6178
Tourances currently on the bike: 9842 - have the replacements waiting to go on.

None of it "on a trailer."[/QUOTE]
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:48 PM   #73614
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbuckey View Post
Amusing. I guess I'm just a wuss 'cause my mileage has been
Tourance: 10519 miles
Tourance: 8997
Tourance: 9773
Bridgestone Trailwing 21/22 (emergency replacement somewhere in N. CA.): 6178
Tourances currently on the bike: 9842 - have the replacements waiting to go on.

None of it "on a trailer."
That's excellent! I've not used a Tourance on my DR's but have used them on my former Tri Tiger and Vstrom. Longest wearing tire in that class of the 5 or 6 road biased dual sport tires. They cost more but last the longest, work well in rain, good handling. Not much good off road if muddy or deep sand but otherwise great tires.
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:53 PM   #73615
Albie
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Location: NWA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbuckey View Post
Amusing. I guess I'm just a wuss 'cause my mileage has been
Tourance: 10519 miles
Tourance: 8997
Tourance: 9773
Bridgestone Trailwing 21/22 (emergency replacement somewhere in N. CA.): 6178
Tourances currently on the bike: 9842 - have the replacements waiting to go on.

None of it "on a trailer."
Wow, I used to be lucky to get 3K miles out of a Tourance. That was on a DL 650 though.
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:59 PM   #73616
jwnsc
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Cutting A Spare Key?

Just bought my first Suzuki!




It's an '06 I hope to introduce to the TAT later this year
after some more farkling.

It came with just one key. There was no little ID plate
with the key # stamped on it either.

What's the consensus on the best procedure to get a spare key?

1. Go to the nearest Suzuki shop.
2. Go to the nearest store that copies keys.
3. Go to a locksmith?
4. None of the above. Remove the ignition switch.

Thanks in advance for your sound advice.
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:53 PM   #73617
dman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainier_runner View Post
I've been running the IMS tank and Giant Loop for well over a year, close to two. No need to change fuel caps. The IMS cap with shorty tube works absolutely great.
Thanks .... I think I will buy this bag instead of Wolfman.

-dman
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:09 PM   #73618
Escaped
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Congratulations!

No answer to your question - I still have both keys, but I would probably just order from Suzuki, unless the price is outrageous.

I have a 2006, owned from new 40,000 + miles and no problems:




Quote:
Originally Posted by jwnsc View Post
Just bought my first Suzuki!




It's an '06 I hope to introduce to the TAT later this year
after some more farkling.

It came with just one key. There was no little ID plate
with the key # stamped on it either.

What's the consensus on the best procedure to get a spare key?

1. Go to the nearest Suzuki shop.
2. Go to the nearest store that copies keys.
3. Go to a locksmith?
4. None of the above. Remove the ignition switch.

Thanks in advance for your sound advice.
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:42 PM   #73619
MeterPig
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Parker, Colorado...
Oddometer: 17,090
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwnsc View Post
Just bought my first Suzuki!




It's an '06 I hope to introduce to the TAT later this year
after some more farkling.

It came with just one key. There was no little ID plate
with the key # stamped on it either.

What's the consensus on the best procedure to get a spare key?

1. Go to the nearest Suzuki shop.
2. Go to the nearest store that copies keys.
3. Go to a locksmith?
4. None of the above. Remove the ignition switch.

Thanks in advance for your sound advice.
Go to a real locksmith who has a full complement of blanks. Preferably one who has a storefront. Not one of those fly by night jobbies. The dr had a specific blank that works. 10 bucks by the time you are done.


Fatfingering on tapatalk with my groovy iphone of doom.
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:04 PM   #73620
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwnsc View Post
It came with just one key. There was no little ID plate
with the key # stamped on it either.

What's the consensus on the best procedure to get a spare key?

1. Go to the nearest Suzuki shop.
2. Go to the nearest store that copies keys.
3. Go to a locksmith?
4. None of the above. Remove the ignition switch.

Thanks in advance for your sound advice.
I went to a locksmith and he had a blank which he copied my Suzuki key pattern to. Cost $3.
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