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Old 02-18-2013, 09:14 AM   #73846
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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just learnt something in indonesia. a good little tool to have in your kit is a smallish triangular tool file sharpened to a point that can then be used as a miniature chisel on stubborn bolts or in this case the tiny screws that hold down the lid of the front brake reservoir. and for holes in radiators (if your not carrying JB weld or something similar) and maybe engine cases, pull out a cigarette filter, tear it up into little fibres and then combine this with superglue to make a super hard patch kind of like a miniature fibreglass patch.

seems poor people are smarter than rich people because they cant afford to be stupid. or maybe its just me thats stupid
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:31 AM   #73847
gofast1320
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battery

Anyone here used the Yuasa YTZ14S battery to replace their stock battery? If so how do you like it. Thanks

Nope, not even considering the lithium batts.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:22 AM   #73848
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blackcap - thanks for that. When people HAVE to be resourceful, it's amazing what they'll come up with. I still remember seeing the pic of a rear flat fixed by stuffing it with field grass and zip tying the tire to the rim. If your tube is shredded and you need to get home....

I like prepping and have a mental tool box of contingencies from these posts. Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:31 AM   #73849
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
just learnt something in indonesia. a good little tool to have in your kit is a smallish triangular tool file sharpened to a point that can then be used as a miniature chisel on stubborn bolts or in this case the tiny screws that hold down the lid of the front brake reservoir. and for holes in radiators (if your not carrying JB weld or something similar) and maybe engine cases, pull out a cigarette filter, tear it up into little fibres and then combine this with superglue to make a super hard patch kind of like a miniature fibreglass patch.

seems poor people are smarter than rich people because they cant afford to be stupid. or maybe its just me thats stupid
We need to see a video of all those 'fixes'!
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:40 AM   #73850
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
I think I've gotten too many terms in my mind, so help me out.

Bike on a stand (no load on the suspension, tires off the ground) has X distance between two points (bolt near the seat to axle) = 21.5"
Bike off the stand with no rider has Y, distance between same two points = 19.75"
Bike with rider seated has Z distance, distance between same two points = 18.25"

So, what term do you use for each:
X to Y
Y to Z
X to Z

What do you think is a reasonable number for each distance?

What is the point of preload on the rear suspension, to change ride height, or something else?
Total travel is the first (longest) measure

Free sag is the distance that the rear of the bike settles when on the ground, but only under its own weight (no rider). Middle measure

Race or rider sag is the third measure (shortest) which should be taken with you on the bike feet on the pegs and all gear on you as well. A good number for the race/rider sag is 4 inches used up when compared to total travel.

if the bike doesn't have enough free sag (usually about 1 inch)when you have cranked in the spring to the right rider sag you need a stiffer spring

Read here: http://motocross.transworld.net/1000...ting-your-sag/

It really makes a difference to have the correct rider sag. I had a KDX 200 that would not turn well in the woods. Drove me nuts. That's when I learned about rider sag. It was way too soft. I cranked it in till I had 4" of rider sag and voila, it was way better. Before raising the rear susp, the bike was acting like a "chopper" and when I picked the rear up, it put more weight on the front tire and steepened the steering angle. Helped a lot.
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Rusty Rocket screwed with this post 02-18-2013 at 10:49 AM
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:36 AM   #73851
acesandeights
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Thanks. I guess I've got it pretty close to where I want it.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:55 AM   #73852
rdcamp
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So I have some questions about this bike.

I currently have an R80RT, and looking at eventually getting an enduro as a supplement to the airhead.

Within my pricerange it looks like either the DR650, or he KLR650

Obviously, people on either side of the aisle love their respective bikes, which is very good news for me.


How does this ride on the street? Does it have oomph to at least do 65-75 if needed on a highway with 180lb rider plus gear

How is the headlight? Is it upgradeable? (granted I drive a 1986 BMW, I can survive with a kinda shitty headlight)

Is this comfortable for longer touring, either with or without the stock seat.

What sort of mods would I want to get beyond luggage rack, bash plate, perhaps a small fairing?

Thank you, it is much appreciated
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:14 PM   #73853
barko1
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Lot of us have had klr's, myself included. They ate good tractors:)
I just added an hid light for $30, not sure why since i rarely drive at night : DR is simpler, simple to maintain, sportier, plus better off road.
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:19 PM   #73854
rdcamp
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what sort of MPG does it get? 50+?
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:21 PM   #73855
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdcamp View Post
So I have some questions about this bike.

I currently have an R80RT, and looking at eventually getting an enduro as a supplement to the airhead.

Within my pricerange it looks like either the DR650, or he KLR650

Obviously, people on either side of the aisle love their respective bikes, which is very good news for me.


How does this ride on the street? Does it have oomph to at least do 65-75 if needed on a highway with 180lb rider plus gear

How is the headlight? Is it upgradeable? (granted I drive a 1986 BMW, I can survive with a kinda shitty headlight)

Is this comfortable for longer touring, either with or without the stock seat.

What sort of mods would I want to get beyond luggage rack, bash plate, perhaps a small fairing?

Thank you, it is much appreciated
If highway miles are mote important than pure off-road capability, get the KLR. They are totally serviceable on dirt roads, forest trails, etc, and they're wicked good touring machines right out of the box. You get a good capacity fuel tank, comfortable seat, and wind protection as stock. The DR is better off road and is faster, but needs some work to be good on the slab. A seat is a definite must, and a windshield is also needed.

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Old 02-18-2013, 12:27 PM   #73856
rdcamp
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Ok, I would imagine I'd be riding more on the road then off... Then again, that can change.

Its my first foray into enduros and offroading.


Regardless, I don't imagine this will happen within a year. But luckily there are a number of Suzuki and Kawi dealers near me so I will have ample opportunity to look!
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:38 PM   #73857
acesandeights
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My very generic definition, but I'd say if you're looking at a 50/50 bike, the KLR is 60/40 on road and the DR is 60/40 off road bias, so if you think you'll be riding more on road the KLR might be better with plenty of ability to ride off road and the DR is the flip side. The DR is a better dirt bike but does really well on road as well. I used my DR as a daily commuter for a while and then put ~100 dirt miles on it on the weekends. I was putting ~750 miles a month on mine for a while and it rode really well as a commuter, much more fun on road than a bike like that ought to be and it did well off road as well. Now that I have done some modifications it's even better off road, but still plenty of fun on road.
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:45 PM   #73858
rdcamp
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it is much appreciated
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:45 PM   #73859
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
A seat is a definite must, and a windshield is also needed.
I don't have a windshield and will never have one on this bike. I did 1500 miles in a week last Sept. The one thing I did was put on a Seat-Concepts seat. I got the 1" taller version.

I used the stock tires and gearing. no problems. (Trail-wings and 15/42 )

I usually use knobbies and lived with the stock seat for over 5 years and run a 14 tooth front sprocket.

I usually get just under 50 mpg. I can usually go 110 miles to reserve but on the highway going 70-75 mph, into a wicked headwind, I hit reserve at 90 miles. (stock tank)

The DR650 is a TRUE dualsport bike. It will do roads and it will do trails. You have R80 for the road work, so the KLR will be too much of an overlap. Get the DR and you will love it.

BTW: the DR650 is pretty much unchanged since 1996, so buy a good clean low mileage used one and get in the game sooner.
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Rusty Rocket screwed with this post 02-18-2013 at 12:52 PM
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:04 PM   #73860
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
I think I've gotten too many terms in my mind, so help me out.

Bike on a stand (no load on the suspension, tires off the ground) has X distance between two points (bolt near the seat to axle) = 21.5"
Bike off the stand with no rider has Y, distance between same two points = 19.75"
Bike with rider seated has Z distance, distance between same two points = 18.25"

So, what term do you use for each:
X to Y
Y to Z
X to Z

What do you think is a reasonable number for each distance?
What is the point of preload on the rear suspension, to change ride height, or something else?
You can learn quite a bit by reading Essays on the Race Tech site by Paul Thede. He is sort of the Guru of off road suspension.
Terms vary ... but I'm old school and follow Mr. Thede's terms coined back in the 1980's.
Really only two terms:
Static sag.
Pull UP on seat and top out travel. Measure. Now let go and let bike settle on it's own weight. That distance is Static Sag.
Next is: Race Sag.
Rider on bike with full gear. Jump up and down some to settle bike down into it's full sag. Measure.
Your specs are about right for the DR650. Between 3.5 and 4 inches is about right. Front sag is tougher to determine, but typically will be much less than rear sag. (about half)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Total travel is the first (longest) measure
Free sag is the distance that the rear of the bike settles when on the ground, but only under its own weight (no rider). Middle measure
Race or rider sag is the third measure (shortest) which should be taken with you on the bike feet on the pegs and all gear on you as well. A good number for the race/rider sag is 4 inches used up when compared to total travel.

if the bike doesn't have enough free sag (usually about 1 inch)when you have cranked in the spring to the right rider sag you need a stiffer spring

Read here: http://motocross.transworld.net/1000...ting-your-sag/

It really makes a difference to have the correct rider sag. I had a KDX 200 that would not turn well in the woods. Drove me nuts. That's when I learned about rider sag. It was way too soft. I cranked it in till I had 4" of rider sag and voila, it was way better. Before raising the rear susp, the bike was acting like a "chopper" and when I picked the rear up, it put more weight on the front tire and steepened the steering angle. Helped a lot.
This is all good. Too much rear sag means bike will not turn on the trails, will be sluggish. Adding pre load or going to heavier spring can help.
It's better to ride higher in the travel for a more plush ride. Thede's essay's cover this and talk about pre load and consequences.

Trial and Error and using a consistent test loop and keeping notes seems to help. There are lots of variables beyond Sag and preload. But everything works together and every change ... affects everything else.
Simple, eh?
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