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Old 02-17-2013, 06:42 PM   #73846
planemanx15
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For all those interested, I put a 790 kit on my dr. I did a full write up located here:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=860980
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:56 PM   #73847
Tech23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I like the simplicity of your sidecar.

Me too, first sidecar I've ever seen mounted on the left side though, high visibility dayglo orange too, can never be too safe. I see the air bag on the seat, Is that an air bag on the high mounted dashboard?

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Old 02-17-2013, 07:00 PM   #73848
nzrian
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indo

Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
the final part of the puzzle. Derek, theres some footage of the dust that passed straight through the unifilter into the top of the carb in here too.
that video is very well done, looks like you are havin a real adventure over there.
how did the chains work?
was that the cause of the broken rimlock?
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:15 PM   #73849
blackcap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nzrian View Post
that video is very well done, looks like you are havin a real adventure over there.
how did the chains work?
was that the cause of the broken rimlock?
the chains were perfect. good for up to 60km/hr and i ran them for almost 100km. noticed some flat areas on the links where they wore a little but almost no damage to the tire. while i was stressing about the mud and my worn tires the locals just laughed as they use chains on their smaller bikes pretty frequently as its the only way to deal with the mud there.

i think the rimlock didnt much like the idea of riding a fully loaded bike for 15km on a completely flat rear tire
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:27 PM   #73850
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
the final part of the puzzle. Derek, theres some footage of the dust that passed straight through the unifilter into the top of the carb in here too.

Hmmm...

I wonder if oiling it would help.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:56 PM   #73851
blackcap
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Hmmm...

I wonder if oiling it would help.

Regards,

Derek
my concern with oiling the unifilter would be cleaning it later. cleaning pleats is a pain in the arse. im going to switch to the modified stock filter with oiled foam which is nice and easy to service whenever i do the main air filter.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:23 PM   #73852
LeDakaR!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I like the simpicity of your sidecar.










Ahah I wish I had a dr rig
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:42 PM   #73853
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
my concern with oiling the unifilter would be cleaning it later. cleaning pleats is a pain in the arse. im going to switch to the modified stock filter with oiled foam which is nice and easy to service whenever i do the main air filter.
In those dusty conditions, I suggest you take the oiled foam one step further, cut it like a mushroom so there will be a 'dome of foam' for a larger surface area.

Pics of waiting too long to clean, in a low dust environment.

Details for the newer readers:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=82



Ewwwwwww:


But it sure works well. Q-tip swab from tube, behind the filter. The tube has never been cleaned at 43,xxx miles.

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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 02-21-2013 at 07:12 PM
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:52 AM   #73854
rspratley
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Auxiliary power line

Does anyone has a picture of the auxiliary power line (activated by the key) that exists behind the front headlight?
Yesterday I was trying to connect an extra light (led) and I tried to find it but all the cables were connected, there was no free connector.
Another solution would be to connect it to the headlight but I would prefer the first solution. I will also use a separate switch for the light.
Thanks.

Update;
I found the image but yesterday stripped the bike front but was unnable to find it. Mine is from 96, the first ones from the "new" series.

rspratley screwed with this post 02-18-2013 at 05:57 AM
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:14 AM   #73855
blackcap
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just learnt something in indonesia. a good little tool to have in your kit is a smallish triangular tool file sharpened to a point that can then be used as a miniature chisel on stubborn bolts or in this case the tiny screws that hold down the lid of the front brake reservoir. and for holes in radiators (if your not carrying JB weld or something similar) and maybe engine cases, pull out a cigarette filter, tear it up into little fibres and then combine this with superglue to make a super hard patch kind of like a miniature fibreglass patch.

seems poor people are smarter than rich people because they cant afford to be stupid. or maybe its just me thats stupid
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:31 AM   #73856
gofast1320
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battery

Anyone here used the Yuasa YTZ14S battery to replace their stock battery? If so how do you like it. Thanks

Nope, not even considering the lithium batts.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:22 AM   #73857
TrophyHunter
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blackcap - thanks for that. When people HAVE to be resourceful, it's amazing what they'll come up with. I still remember seeing the pic of a rear flat fixed by stuffing it with field grass and zip tying the tire to the rim. If your tube is shredded and you need to get home....

I like prepping and have a mental tool box of contingencies from these posts. Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:31 AM   #73858
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
just learnt something in indonesia. a good little tool to have in your kit is a smallish triangular tool file sharpened to a point that can then be used as a miniature chisel on stubborn bolts or in this case the tiny screws that hold down the lid of the front brake reservoir. and for holes in radiators (if your not carrying JB weld or something similar) and maybe engine cases, pull out a cigarette filter, tear it up into little fibres and then combine this with superglue to make a super hard patch kind of like a miniature fibreglass patch.

seems poor people are smarter than rich people because they cant afford to be stupid. or maybe its just me thats stupid
We need to see a video of all those 'fixes'!
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:40 AM   #73859
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
I think I've gotten too many terms in my mind, so help me out.

Bike on a stand (no load on the suspension, tires off the ground) has X distance between two points (bolt near the seat to axle) = 21.5"
Bike off the stand with no rider has Y, distance between same two points = 19.75"
Bike with rider seated has Z distance, distance between same two points = 18.25"

So, what term do you use for each:
X to Y
Y to Z
X to Z

What do you think is a reasonable number for each distance?

What is the point of preload on the rear suspension, to change ride height, or something else?
Total travel is the first (longest) measure

Free sag is the distance that the rear of the bike settles when on the ground, but only under its own weight (no rider). Middle measure

Race or rider sag is the third measure (shortest) which should be taken with you on the bike feet on the pegs and all gear on you as well. A good number for the race/rider sag is 4 inches used up when compared to total travel.

if the bike doesn't have enough free sag (usually about 1 inch)when you have cranked in the spring to the right rider sag you need a stiffer spring

Read here: http://motocross.transworld.net/1000...ting-your-sag/

It really makes a difference to have the correct rider sag. I had a KDX 200 that would not turn well in the woods. Drove me nuts. That's when I learned about rider sag. It was way too soft. I cranked it in till I had 4" of rider sag and voila, it was way better. Before raising the rear susp, the bike was acting like a "chopper" and when I picked the rear up, it put more weight on the front tire and steepened the steering angle. Helped a lot.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:36 AM   #73860
acesandeights
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Thanks. I guess I've got it pretty close to where I want it.
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