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Old 02-17-2013, 08:42 PM   #73861
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
my concern with oiling the unifilter would be cleaning it later. cleaning pleats is a pain in the arse. im going to switch to the modified stock filter with oiled foam which is nice and easy to service whenever i do the main air filter.
In those dusty conditions, I suggest you take the oiled foam one step further, cut it like a mushroom so there will be a 'dome of foam' for a larger surface area.

Pics of waiting too long to clean, in a low dust environment.

Details for the newer readers:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=82



Ewwwwwww:


But it sure works well. Q-tip swab from tube, behind the filter. The tube has never been cleaned at 43,xxx miles.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 02-21-2013 at 07:12 PM
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:52 AM   #73862
rspratley
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Location: Portugal
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Auxiliary power line

Does anyone has a picture of the auxiliary power line (activated by the key) that exists behind the front headlight?
Yesterday I was trying to connect an extra light (led) and I tried to find it but all the cables were connected, there was no free connector.
Another solution would be to connect it to the headlight but I would prefer the first solution. I will also use a separate switch for the light.
Thanks.

Update;
I found the image but yesterday stripped the bike front but was unnable to find it. Mine is from 96, the first ones from the "new" series.

rspratley screwed with this post 02-18-2013 at 05:57 AM
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:14 AM   #73863
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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just learnt something in indonesia. a good little tool to have in your kit is a smallish triangular tool file sharpened to a point that can then be used as a miniature chisel on stubborn bolts or in this case the tiny screws that hold down the lid of the front brake reservoir. and for holes in radiators (if your not carrying JB weld or something similar) and maybe engine cases, pull out a cigarette filter, tear it up into little fibres and then combine this with superglue to make a super hard patch kind of like a miniature fibreglass patch.

seems poor people are smarter than rich people because they cant afford to be stupid. or maybe its just me thats stupid
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:31 AM   #73864
gofast1320
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Middle Tennessee
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battery

Anyone here used the Yuasa YTZ14S battery to replace their stock battery? If so how do you like it. Thanks

Nope, not even considering the lithium batts.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:22 AM   #73865
TrophyHunter
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blackcap - thanks for that. When people HAVE to be resourceful, it's amazing what they'll come up with. I still remember seeing the pic of a rear flat fixed by stuffing it with field grass and zip tying the tire to the rim. If your tube is shredded and you need to get home....

I like prepping and have a mental tool box of contingencies from these posts. Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:31 AM   #73866
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcap View Post
just learnt something in indonesia. a good little tool to have in your kit is a smallish triangular tool file sharpened to a point that can then be used as a miniature chisel on stubborn bolts or in this case the tiny screws that hold down the lid of the front brake reservoir. and for holes in radiators (if your not carrying JB weld or something similar) and maybe engine cases, pull out a cigarette filter, tear it up into little fibres and then combine this with superglue to make a super hard patch kind of like a miniature fibreglass patch.

seems poor people are smarter than rich people because they cant afford to be stupid. or maybe its just me thats stupid
We need to see a video of all those 'fixes'!
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:40 AM   #73867
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
I think I've gotten too many terms in my mind, so help me out.

Bike on a stand (no load on the suspension, tires off the ground) has X distance between two points (bolt near the seat to axle) = 21.5"
Bike off the stand with no rider has Y, distance between same two points = 19.75"
Bike with rider seated has Z distance, distance between same two points = 18.25"

So, what term do you use for each:
X to Y
Y to Z
X to Z

What do you think is a reasonable number for each distance?

What is the point of preload on the rear suspension, to change ride height, or something else?
Total travel is the first (longest) measure

Free sag is the distance that the rear of the bike settles when on the ground, but only under its own weight (no rider). Middle measure

Race or rider sag is the third measure (shortest) which should be taken with you on the bike feet on the pegs and all gear on you as well. A good number for the race/rider sag is 4 inches used up when compared to total travel.

if the bike doesn't have enough free sag (usually about 1 inch)when you have cranked in the spring to the right rider sag you need a stiffer spring

Read here: http://motocross.transworld.net/1000...ting-your-sag/

It really makes a difference to have the correct rider sag. I had a KDX 200 that would not turn well in the woods. Drove me nuts. That's when I learned about rider sag. It was way too soft. I cranked it in till I had 4" of rider sag and voila, it was way better. Before raising the rear susp, the bike was acting like a "chopper" and when I picked the rear up, it put more weight on the front tire and steepened the steering angle. Helped a lot.
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Rusty Rocket screwed with this post 02-18-2013 at 09:49 AM
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:36 AM   #73868
acesandeights
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Thanks. I guess I've got it pretty close to where I want it.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:55 AM   #73869
rdcamp
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Joined: Feb 2013
Location: Albany, NY
Oddometer: 96
So I have some questions about this bike.

I currently have an R80RT, and looking at eventually getting an enduro as a supplement to the airhead.

Within my pricerange it looks like either the DR650, or he KLR650

Obviously, people on either side of the aisle love their respective bikes, which is very good news for me.


How does this ride on the street? Does it have oomph to at least do 65-75 if needed on a highway with 180lb rider plus gear

How is the headlight? Is it upgradeable? (granted I drive a 1986 BMW, I can survive with a kinda shitty headlight)

Is this comfortable for longer touring, either with or without the stock seat.

What sort of mods would I want to get beyond luggage rack, bash plate, perhaps a small fairing?

Thank you, it is much appreciated
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:14 AM   #73870
barko1
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Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
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Lot of us have had klr's, myself included. They ate good tractors:)
I just added an hid light for $30, not sure why since i rarely drive at night : DR is simpler, simple to maintain, sportier, plus better off road.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:19 AM   #73871
rdcamp
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what sort of MPG does it get? 50+?
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:21 AM   #73872
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdcamp View Post
So I have some questions about this bike.

I currently have an R80RT, and looking at eventually getting an enduro as a supplement to the airhead.

Within my pricerange it looks like either the DR650, or he KLR650

Obviously, people on either side of the aisle love their respective bikes, which is very good news for me.


How does this ride on the street? Does it have oomph to at least do 65-75 if needed on a highway with 180lb rider plus gear

How is the headlight? Is it upgradeable? (granted I drive a 1986 BMW, I can survive with a kinda shitty headlight)

Is this comfortable for longer touring, either with or without the stock seat.

What sort of mods would I want to get beyond luggage rack, bash plate, perhaps a small fairing?

Thank you, it is much appreciated
If highway miles are mote important than pure off-road capability, get the KLR. They are totally serviceable on dirt roads, forest trails, etc, and they're wicked good touring machines right out of the box. You get a good capacity fuel tank, comfortable seat, and wind protection as stock. The DR is better off road and is faster, but needs some work to be good on the slab. A seat is a definite must, and a windshield is also needed.

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Old 02-18-2013, 11:27 AM   #73873
rdcamp
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Ok, I would imagine I'd be riding more on the road then off... Then again, that can change.

Its my first foray into enduros and offroading.


Regardless, I don't imagine this will happen within a year. But luckily there are a number of Suzuki and Kawi dealers near me so I will have ample opportunity to look!
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:38 AM   #73874
acesandeights
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My very generic definition, but I'd say if you're looking at a 50/50 bike, the KLR is 60/40 on road and the DR is 60/40 off road bias, so if you think you'll be riding more on road the KLR might be better with plenty of ability to ride off road and the DR is the flip side. The DR is a better dirt bike but does really well on road as well. I used my DR as a daily commuter for a while and then put ~100 dirt miles on it on the weekends. I was putting ~750 miles a month on mine for a while and it rode really well as a commuter, much more fun on road than a bike like that ought to be and it did well off road as well. Now that I have done some modifications it's even better off road, but still plenty of fun on road.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:45 AM   #73875
rdcamp
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it is much appreciated
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