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Old 02-21-2013, 08:12 AM   #73951
poppawheelie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
...
I think Star Tron costs much more to use plus it's for ethanol issues only yes?, & not continual cleaning & lubrication in the oil & thus fuel pumps, carbs, FI plus valve & piston carbon cleaning...
Not just for ethanol, Star Tron is a cleaner and carbon solvent and stabilizes fuel up to 2 yrs. I don't know that's it's a lubricant. At a usage rate of 1 oz per 3 gallons, it's not too expensive. Etnanol is a major issue here in PA. I can't buy ANY fuel without it! Sucks. I'm told gas with ethanol goes bad in 30 days, and some distributors don't add the ethanol till delivery at the gas station for that reason. The Chevy Volt has a warning light on the dash to tell the owner to go have the fuel pumped out after a certain age!
Ethanol and fuel degeneration are my major issues. Sounds like you're good with Lucas.
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:27 AM   #73952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Lucas; what ever are you talking about??

Good one! I'll send that on to a couple friends.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:20 AM   #73953
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Does anyone have any useful pics for Happy-Trail Owyhee panniers vs. Tetons on a DR. I mulling back and forth between the two in the 7.5" width for my road duties, I have Wolfman's for offroad. The pics on the website are about useless for any comparisons. I run the lowered suspension. Thanks if anyone can help, I've searched the whole damn internet trying to find decent pics at useful angles (front/back/sides). My major concern is that the Tetons will be too large running the low suspension.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:38 AM   #73954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Anyone?
sure looks like it will fit. the legnth is just 1/8" longer but there is probably room in there for that. height actually looks to be a little shorter.

it's 230cca vrs 120 on the stock which is key.
it's a sealed lead acid vrs agm but that's ok.

price is right here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YUASA-YTZ14S...aa3500&vxp=mtr

http://www.yuasabatteries.com/batter...=B179&vID=7801

this is what i've been using:
http://www.tristatebattery.com/produ...roducts_id=973
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:47 AM   #73955
Mambo Dave
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Back to handlebars (for the 1000th time?).

I'm 5'10", and while I really want to be the gnarly adventure rider of my dreams, the truth is that I am commuting my ass off on the roads, usually sitting down, on my DR650SE.

So while I've read that pros and real off-roaders want less sweep ... one of the most ergonomically comfortable bikes I've test ridden lately was a modern KLR650... so I take it that for my arms and seating position, I need more of a sweep back than the DR650 comes with stock. Possibly more height too... all of which should be able to be accomplished by bars without risers I'd think.

I'm thinking of CR Highs like so many have posted, but every now and then read about bars that might have a bit more rise and about the same sweep.

Would rather not pay a lot... and am guessing that Fly Racing's bars in Gold (just found them, they seem cheap enough) would look good on my blue and white 2002. ... but I keep reading about Renthal's 'Desert Bend' (may not be made any longer) KX High bends (less sweep... so they're out I guess) and others.

Suggestions?
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:50 AM   #73956
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
Not just for ethanol, Star Tron is a cleaner and carbon solvent and stabilizes fuel up to 2 yrs. I don't know that's it's a lubricant. At a usage rate of 1 oz per 3 gallons, it's not too expensive. Etnanol is a major issue here in PA. I can't buy ANY fuel without it! Sucks. I'm told gas with ethanol goes bad in 30 days, and some distributors don't add the ethanol till delivery at the gas station for that reason. The Chevy Volt has a warning light on the dash to tell the owner to go have the fuel pumped out after a certain age!
Ethanol and fuel degeneration are my major issues. Sounds like you're good with Lucas.
Sounds like Star Tron is working well for you. Good to know it works beyond just dealing with ethanol. Yes ethanol sucks for everyone in the US for the most part.

Yes I'm happy with Lucas because of the lubrication properties it has as it's a fortified oil product with no distillates. It's cost effective and all the motors I use it in run better with it in. I'm skeptical of snake oils from most all mfg., but my experience with it in my old CB750 proved to me it does work and it seems most all agree with me: http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-10013-Fu.../dp/B000FW7V50

I figured there would always be a handful of guys that think i'm full of it and it's a bogus, but whatever. They can keep their bikes how they want.

I've experienced this before when I jumped on Denso Iridium plugs when the technology 1st came out. I read what the few racers who used it had to say and read the technology behind the product and gave it 1st shot on my XR400 (a notorious hard starter). Most everyone said it was another bogus plug design. Anyway my bike started easier and ran cleaner. These days Iridium is well accepted and respected for how they work. blah blah blah
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AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:00 AM   #73957
gofast1320
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battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
sure looks like it will fit. the legnth is just 1/8" longer but there is probably room in there for that. height actually looks to be a little shorter.

it's 230cca vrs 120 on the stock which is key.
it's a sealed lead acid vrs agm but that's ok.

price is right here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YUASA-YTZ14S...aa3500&vxp=mtr

http://www.yuasabatteries.com/batter...=B179&vID=7801

this is what i've been using:
http://www.tristatebattery.com/produ...roducts_id=973
Thanks Eakins. Didn't notice the acid thing. I've gotten used to the AGM with my ATVs. Guess I need to do some more studying. Current battery may be the OEM on a 2006 and it is pretty wonky as I need to keep it on a battery tender for it to crank so I have no idea how well a fresh 120 works.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:03 AM   #73958
eakins
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If you want your bike to be comfortable and upright like the KLR (I owned one too) then a Protaper SE ATV Mid bar is what you want. The oem KLR bar has almost the same dimensions at the ATV mid bar.

I've been using a ATV mids for several years now on my DR. Very comfortable for long rides and standing (I also use Procycle lowered pegs and they were the final piece to get that KLR-like comfortable ergos. standing is even better with them as you are lower on the bike with less back bending).

I had to re-route the clutch cable to gain some length and rotate the throttle so the cables come out from the bottom to make it all work. I also moved in my grips and throttle assy in from the edge of the bar to better match my preferred grip width. I did this vrs cutting the bars down because of the handguard fit. I use Maier atv alum. guards for plenty of lever clearance and Maier Off-road plastics on the alum. as the ATV ones were too big for me.

I've used cr hi on my xr in the past and that is a comfortable off-road bar. I added risers for standing. If i was using my DR as a dirtbike I would use that setup again but I wanted a more comfortable KLR feel as I do long on & off-road western tours on my DR.









Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Back to handlebars (for the 1000th time?).

I'm 5'10", and while I really want to be the gnarly adventure rider of my dreams, the truth is that I am commuting my ass off on the roads, usually sitting down, on my DR650SE.

So while I've read that pros and real off-roaders want less sweep ... one of the most ergonomically comfortable bikes I've test ridden lately was a modern KLR650... so I take it that for my arms and seating position, I need more of a sweep back than the DR650 comes with stock. Possibly more height too... all of which should be able to be accomplished by bars without risers I'd think.

I'm thinking of CR Highs like so many have posted, but every now and then read about bars that might have a bit more rise and about the same sweep.

Would rather not pay a lot... and am guessing that Fly Racing's bars in Gold (just found them, they seem cheap enough) would look good on my blue and white 2002. ... but I keep reading about Renthal's 'Desert Bend' (may not be made any longer) KX High bends (less sweep... so they're out I guess) and others.

Suggestions?
__________________
Butler Maps - motorcycle maps for riders by riders -
Alaska
AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
Cycle World Adventure Rally:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=956350

eakins screwed with this post 02-21-2013 at 10:24 AM
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:05 AM   #73959
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
Sounds like Star Tron is working well for you. Good to know it works beyond just dealing with ethanol. Yes ethanol sucks for everyone in the US for the most part.

Yes I'm happy with Lucas because of the lubrication properties it has as it's a fortified oil product with no distillates. It's cost effective and all the motors I use it in run better with it in. I'm skeptical of snake oils from most all mfg., but my experience with it in my old CB750 proved to me it does work and it seems most all agree with me: http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-10013-Fu.../dp/B000FW7V50

I figured there would always be a handful of guys that think i'm full of it and it's a bogus, but whatever. They can keep their bikes how they want.

I've experienced this before when I jumped on Denso Iridium plugs when the technology 1st came out. I read what the few racers who used it had to say and read the technology behind the product and gave it 1st shot on my XR400 (a notorious hard starter). Most everyone said it was another bogus plug design. Anyway my bike started easier and ran cleaner. These days Iridium is well accepted and respected for how they work. blah blah blah
I've read about the Lucas Treatment, either here or elsewhere on ADVRider and I'm willing to give it a whirl. Trouble is, I bought 4 bottles of StarTron a while ago and haven't used it up yet. I get it at WalMart in the boating Dept and it's about a $1 cheaper there than anywhere else around here. I tried SeaFoam also and don't really remember it being any better/worse that StarTron. I fully believe that with ethanol in the fuels we get here in CT that something has to be added to anything that sits for any length of time. (ask the outboard motor guys)

I was looking at a picture thread on ADV and somewhere in VT, there was a picture of a bike in front of a gas station and the sign said "Ethanol-Free Gas". I immediately started checking how far it was from my house. Too far for just a trip, but I was ready if it was closer. There is a website somewhere that lists all the station that sell gas w/o ethanol.

XR400's came with a resistor built onto the sparkplug cap that made them hard to start. Even after you took it off and put on a different cap, they weren't easy to start, just easier.


I'll try Lucas soon.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:09 AM   #73960
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Thanks Eakins. Didn't notice the acid thing. I've gotten used to the AGM with my ATVs. Guess I need to do some more studying. Current battery may be the OEM on a 2006 and it is pretty wonky as I need to keep it on a battery tender for it to crank so I have no idea how well a fresh 120 works.
Yuasa also make that battery in AGM I think but it's lithium battery priced.
A new Deka AGM (made in the USA) cranks very hard and I find they last me atleast 4 solid years of service with no maintenance. It has never let me down (I use Iridium plugs and my carb is properly tuned so I need to crank very little on my DR to get it to start).

For less than $60 shipped I just buy another one every 4 years and call it a day. I do like the Earth X (A Colorado company and made in the US) battery technology and specs but until they get to a good chunk less than $100, i'll stick with that Deka AGM battery. I have no illusions, my DR is a heavier bike (with all the mods added) and a few lbs saving of a lithium will lighten nothing but my wallet nor do I want to be the cool guy who spends alot of $ to have the latest and the greatest farkle
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Alaska
AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
Cycle World Adventure Rally:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=956350
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:16 AM   #73961
eakins
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resistor came out of the XR on day 1
http://www.kamware.com/vtr1000f/resistor1.htm

even after properly tuned carb and adjusted valves and doing the proper starting technique it's still tricky at times. those Iridiums help that a bit for sure. sold the bike because I was over kicking it. decided right then and there to always own a bike with an electric starter.

would love to hear you feedback on that Lucas oil. thnx Bill

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
I've read about the Lucas Treatment, either here or elsewhere on ADVRider and I'm willing to give it a whirl. Trouble is, I bought 4 bottles of StarTron a while ago and haven't used it up yet. I get it at WalMart in the boating Dept and it's about a $1 cheaper there than anywhere else around here. I tried SeaFoam also and don't really remember it being any better/worse that StarTron. I fully believe that with ethanol in the fuels we get here in CT that something has to be added to anything that sits for any length of time. (ask the outboard motor guys)

I was looking at a picture thread on ADV and somewhere in VT, there was a picture of a bike in front of a gas station and the sign said "Ethanol-Free Gas". I immediately started checking how far it was from my house. Too far for just a trip, but I was ready if it was closer. There is a website somewhere that lists all the station that sell gas w/o ethanol.

XR400's came with a resistor built onto the sparkplug cap that made them hard to start. Even after you took it off and put on a different cap, they weren't easy to start, just easier.


I'll try Lucas soon.
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Alaska
AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
Cycle World Adventure Rally:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=956350

eakins screwed with this post 02-21-2013 at 10:21 AM
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:16 AM   #73962
gofast1320
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bars

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Back to handlebars (for the 1000th time?).

I'm 5'10", and while I really want to be the gnarly adventure rider of my dreams, the truth is that I am commuting my ass off on the roads, usually sitting down, on my DR650SE.

So while I've read that pros and real off-roaders want less sweep ... one of the most ergonomically comfortable bikes I've test ridden lately was a modern KLR650... so I take it that for my arms and seating position, I need more of a sweep back than the DR650 comes with stock. Possibly more height too... all of which should be able to be accomplished by bars without risers I'd think.

I'm thinking of CR Highs like so many have posted, but every now and then read about bars that might have a bit more rise and about the same sweep.

Would rather not pay a lot... and am guessing that Fly Racing's bars in Gold (just found them, they seem cheap enough) would look good on my blue and white 2002. ... but I keep reading about Renthal's 'Desert Bend' (may not be made any longer) KX High bends (less sweep... so they're out I guess) and others.

Suggestions?
Mambo Dave- I'm going through the same thing . Wanting to buy some HDB hand guards for my 2006 but need to settle on bars first. Back a few pages in this thread I think (may have been DR650 forum/site) someone posted different bars that matched OEM DR650 measurements and then others. You might check that out.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:32 AM   #73963
Icecold Dan
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Hey all,

I have a major issue with my DR. Yesterday as I was down shifting to stop at a light, there was a clunking noise going from 2nd to 1st. When the light turned, the bike wouldn't move. I got it into neutral and pushed it to to the nearest sidewalk. I thought at first that I had thrown the chain, but when I opened the front sprocket cover, I found that the chain was still in place. Uh oh...this isn't good. I ended up calling for a ride and when I got home I started to disassemble things starting at the gear shift mechinasim. Everything there looked good so I moved over to pulling off the right side cover where the clutch is. Everything looked good with the clutch plates but I haven't actually checked tolerances yet. I had to stop when I got to the the large nut on the clutch hub. I believe it is 26mm but wasn't able to confirm as I don't have a socket that big and I couldn't get my wrench in there to test for size.

I'm starting to get nervious that the problem may be in the transmission itself but am not really sure how to troubleshoot any further. I'm not sure what my next step should be. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I already think I'm in a bit over my head.

It's an 09 with 15k miles.

Thanks,

Dan
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:05 AM   #73964
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Anyone?
The main issue is ... WILL that battery fit in the stock battery compartment?
If so ... then no worries. I believe the Yuasa you list has a higher Amp Hour rating than the stock DR650 battery. Yes? This is a good thing. If it fits in there ... go for it.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:15 AM   #73965
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
If you want your bike to be comfortable and upright like the KLR (I owned one too) then a Protaper SE ATV Mid bar is what you want. The oem KLR bar has almost the same dimensions at the ATV mid bar.

I've been using a ATV mids for several years now on my DR. Very comfortable for long rides and standing (I also use Procycle lowered pegs and they were the final piece to get that KLR-like comfortable ergos. standing is even better with them as you are lower on the bike with less back bending).

I had to re-route the clutch cable to gain some length and rotate the throttle so the cables come out from the bottom to make it all work. I also moved in my grips and throttle assy in from the edge of the bar to better match my preferred grip width. I did this vrs cutting the bars down because of the handguard fit. I use Maier atv alum. guards for plenty of lever clearance and Maier Off-road plastics on the alum. as the ATV ones were too big for me.

I've used cr hi on my xr in the past and that is a comfortable off-road bar. I added risers for standing. If i was using my DR as a dirtbike I would use that setup again but I wanted a more comfortable KLR feel as I do long on & off-road western tours on my DR.
Perfect !

Thanks, and it's great to hear from someone who knows just what I'm looking for, and talking about, with the KLR. The last time I brought this up someone suggested I just go buy a KLR... , and I had some other suggestions, but ... no-one knew what I was talking about with the ergonomics of the KLR.

I just cross-referenced the bars, and the Fly Racing (inexpensive... and hopefully OK for the job?) ATV bend from http://flyracing.s3.amazonaws.com/si...ar%20chart.pdf seems to most closely match your ProTaper (http://www.protaper.com/products/handlebars/se) bars.

ProTaper ATV MID:
813 width,
150 height,
93 mid-rise,
237 bottom/base width,
76-degree sweep,
206 grip

vs.

Fly ATV : 730 width, 150 height, 116 mid-rise, ? base, 71 degree sweep, ? grip

... but perhaps not close enough? Like you, I wouldn't mind narrower bars, but like you I could move my grips in a bit to make the bars narrower...

Can I see a close-up picture of the ends of your bars - did you use a spacer of some sort against the grip, or how do you keep your left grip from sliding to the end of the bar?
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X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
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." --
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