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Old 02-23-2013, 04:01 AM   #74011
SCExpat
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The first one sold for $54.95 and free shipping. The second pair sold for $71 plus $40 shipping = $55.50 each! Good deals.

Thanks for the info. I'll be searching flea bay.
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Old 02-23-2013, 04:14 AM   #74012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoPaRider View Post
Will any year Hayabusa muffler work with Jesse's (Kientech) mid-pipe adapter kit, there was a set of 'busa mufflers for sale on ebay that stated they would only fit 1999-2007 model 'busa's? There seems to be quite a range of prices for the 'busa mufflers out there, used ones for as little as $71.00 for a pair ($35.50 a piece), up to $100 or more for a new one.

Jeff (SoPaRider)

Third owner of a nearly new '09 DR650SE (I'm workin' on a buildin'!)
The Kientech site lists part # 24FO http://kientech.com/DR650GSXRExaust.htm so that is what I would be looking for.

Just got a 2009 myself. Best year right
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:38 AM   #74013
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoPaRider View Post
Will any year Hayabusa muffler work with Jesse's (Kientech) mid-pipe adapter kit, there was a set of 'busa mufflers for sale on ebay that stated they would only fit 1999-2007 model 'busa's? There seems to be quite a range of prices for the 'busa mufflers out there, used ones for as little as $71.00 for a pair ($35.50 a piece), up to $100 or more for a new one.

Jeff (SoPaRider)

Third owner of a nearly new '09 DR650SE (I'm workin' on a buildin'!)
99-07 is the first gen and should be fine. 08 on up the mufflers changed.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:55 AM   #74014
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
It does sound very poor, but has no problem revving. I'm 90% sure it's the top end. What should be done if the valve is touching the piston?

Does the exhaust sound bad? Like if you ignore the engine noise and just listen right at the muffler does it sound like it should or is it missing/sounding wierd? I dont know why a valve would have hit the piston other than being miss adjusted (unlikely as it weas riding just fine before) or the valve adjustment lock nut came loose and allowing the valve to move.
Either way if the valve has contacted the piston chances are you will be replaceing the valves (and valve springs as that could be another culprit). A weak valve spring combined with your new monstor motor could have caused this problem... How many miles on the bike again?
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:57 AM   #74015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
Does the exhaust sound bad? Like if you ignore the engine noise and just listen right at the muffler does it sound like it should or is it missing/sounding wierd? I dont know why a valve would have hit the piston other than being miss adjusted (unlikely as it weas riding just fine before) or the valve adjustment lock nut came loose and allowing the valve to move.
Either way if the valve has contacted the piston chances are you will be replaceing the valves (and valve springs as that could be another culprit). A weak valve spring combined with your new monstor motor could have caused this problem... How many miles on the bike again?
The exhaust sounds fine, its just the valves, as if I adjusted then on the wrong TDC. But like you said the bike was fine right before and only started this under a highway load. Im 100% sure I did the valves on the correct TDC.
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:03 AM   #74016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
The exhaust sounds fine, its just the valves, as if I adjusted then on the wrong TDC. But like you said the bike was fine right before and only started this under a highway load. Im 100% sure I did the valves on the correct TDC.
It would not have run if you had adjusted them on the wrong cycle. Maybe start by just pulling the valve covers and checking your settings before removeing the head, that way you will know if anything has moved and have a better idea what the cause may be.
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:05 AM   #74017
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Kinda suprised Jeff hasnt chimed in on this but he may have missed your post on fri. and I think they are closed weekends. You may want to give them a call on monday if you havent found the problem.
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:06 AM   #74018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
It would not have run if you had adjusted them on the wrong cycle. Maybe start by just pulling the valve covers and checking your settings before removeing the head, that way you will know if anything has moved and have a better idea what the cause may be.
Strange part is I've done that, and there is no noise at all. Its only when running that I hear it. I would think that I would hear some sort of "Clink" when turning the motor by hand
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:06 AM   #74019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
The exhaust sounds fine, its just the valves, as if I adjusted then on the wrong TDC. But like you said the bike was fine right before and only started this under a highway load. Im 100% sure I did the valves on the correct TDC.
I, on the other hand, did NOT do the valves on the correct TDC. Mine sounded close to that (CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK ...), but I had only done the intakes (completely wrong), and shut it off pretty fast. I certainly didn't try to rev it, but... yeah - they're only little covers... take them off and see if you don't have gobs of space between the valves and the rockers now (like I did).

I mean, that would be the easiest thing to check first before even taking off the clutch cover... but then you're the one who is there, and if you're sure the sound is coming from the clutch, then so be it.
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:11 AM   #74020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
Strange part is I've done that, and there is no noise at all. Its only when running that I hear it. I would think that I would hear some sort of "Clink" when turning the motor by hand
I dont think you would necesarilly hear it turning the engine over by hand.It could be that they dont touch unless they are running due to the high speeds and tight tolerances we are talking about with the valve train.
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:12 AM   #74021
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Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I, on the other hand, did NOT do the valves on the correct TDC. Mine sounded close to that (CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK CLACK ...), but I had only done the intakes (completely wrong), and shut it off pretty fast. I certainly didn't try to rev it, but... yeah - they're only little covers... take them off and see if you don't have gobs of space between the valves and the rockers now (like I did).

I mean, that would be the easiest thing to check first before even taking off the clutch cover... but then you're the one who is there, and if you're sure the sound is coming from the clutch, then so be it.
Thats what I sounds like, But Im sure I did the valves fine. The bike ran good for 50 miles before any of this noise started. When i checked it last night, the space between the rockers and the valves were minimal. I have a strong feeling I have a bent valve.
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:14 AM   #74022
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Yeah, me too. Could you get a feeler gauge in there or are they tight tight?
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:06 AM   #74023
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Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
It does sound very poor, but has no problem revving. I'm 90% sure it's the top end. What should be done if the valve is touching the piston?
If the valve is bent, I am curious how it would still have enough compression to start...
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:10 AM   #74024
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If the valve is bent, I am curious how it would still have enough compression to start...

It may not be very far off and has hammered itself to shape so that it runs. Planemanx said it died when he first pulled over but it would idle by the time he got home. He may have riden it far enough to make it semi-reseat. IDK just thinking out loud, the tear down will tell the tail.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:19 AM   #74025
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Long shot here,auto comp messed up?
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