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Old 02-25-2013, 01:20 PM   #74071
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry94025 View Post
Planemanx15,

One last thing... Remember that the metal that used to be part of your piston skirt is now somewhere in the engine. I would check the crank and connecting rod bearings very carefully by rotating them by hand to sense any roughness. Remove the oil filter and cut it apart; hopefully you'll see evidence of the metal trapped there. Drain the oil and see if you see silvery bits of aluminum, then flush things out as best as you can. The oil cooler would also be a good candidate for a flush.

Regards,
Harry
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:28 PM   #74072
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
Hey All - First, I'd like to say thanks for all the advice and info I've gotten and read here. The best advice I've gotten is a) Buy the DR650 & b) put down the tools and walk away

I am looking for some more. I will be moving back to Very Northern AZ in the summer. I bought my bike here in NY at about 300ft. I will be living closer to 6,000 and riding up to around 10,000+ in Colorado/Utah.

Do I need to change anything on the bike for the altitude? Sand storms are routine; as is heavy wet clay. Anything necessary to protect the motor and whatever else may be harmed by the sand and clay?

I have a 2012, completely stock.

Next week I am going to start asking about farkling it out.

Thanks
Stock jetting should be fine ... until you get up over about 10K ft.
For off road Desert riding I'd get some sort of bash plate ... and side case covers. Bark Busters of some sort too to protect hands, levers and Master cylinder.

If the motor gets muddy, don't worry but try to keep the oil cooler clear of mud ... but DO NOT bend delicate fins. Hose off SOON after ride. Don't wait for mud to turn to HARD POTTERY.

You'll need knobbies for Desert riding. Dunlop D606, Conti TKC80 are good to start, but LOTS of tire options. Knobbies make sand easier.
Have fun. TONS of amazing territory in and around Grand Canyon and up into Utah.
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:37 PM   #74073
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frecks View Post
So after suffering a catastrophic engine failure a couple years ago(that can be attributed to me not torquing things down to spec), I'm finally rebuilding my engine. My clutch pack appears to still be in good condition, but some of the aluminum shavings that were coursing through my engine seem to have gotten in the clutch pack. The clutch pack has also been sitting in a box in the garage for the past 2 years.

I'm wondering what the collective wisdom of this thread thinks is the best way to clean it and prep it for re-install.

As for lessons learned; Loctite and torque wrenches are significantly cheaper than crankcases, crankshafts, and clutch baskets.
I would get some professional help on the rebuild. There are SO MANY places to make mistakes ... even for guys with experience.

CLUTCH
Clean plates with oil, wipe off very well. Soak plates in clean oil for 2 - 3 hours before install. DO NOT use synthetic oil in new engine.

I would be more worried about metal bits still inside the engine, oil lines, Oil pump, oil cooler/hoses. Flush it all out a couple times with cheap oil or oil and Kerosene mix before running. Do an Engine oil and filter change after 20 miles. (to be safe). Another at 200 miles. Best of luck ... but luck won't help really. Get a pro to help out.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:59 PM   #74074
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Trying to leave CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
They have a note in the vendor section that their website is currently down. They haven't gone anywhere. - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=seat+concepts
Thanks.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:15 PM   #74075
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
a little ot, but have you had any experience w/totalseal rings? comments?

thanks,

doug s.

ps - about your tag line - do you really think the guy who invented the 1st wheel and the 2nd wheel were different guys?

I have tried them in two motors because the customer wanted to try them. They both sucked and I ended up putting in a standard style ring. The biggest problem with them is they don't ever seem to "break in". The leak down numbers are awsome...the actual running is less then desirable. Was burning so much oil it was putting the plugs out. We even took the one motor back apart- re-honed to Total Seal's specs, ran the oil they reccommended and broke it in like they said. Still no luck. Their tech people said we must be doing something wrong.... Yeh right. We put in a set that cost 1/2 the price and picked up 15 HP and no oil burn issues. That was all the proof I needed to never run them.

Total Seal makes a standard gap ring set- I think they call it "classic ring pack". I have run those with no problems.

If anyone cares:
I can tell you from experience that rings start touching each other and causing damage at around .010" gap. In trying to get some HP on dirt track motors we kept narrowing the gap... bad stuff below .011" The other thing we found is ring gap doesn't make that much diffrence between .015" and .025" in HP (less then 1/2 HP) We now run .020-.024 top and .022-.025 2nd on 90% of our setups.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:36 PM   #74076
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I have tried them in two motors because the customer wanted to try them. They both sucked and I ended up putting in a standard style ring. The biggest problem with them is they don't ever seem to "break in". The leak down numbers are awsome...the actual running is less then desirable. Was burning so much oil it was putting the plugs out. We even took the one motor back apart- re-honed to Total Seal's specs, ran the oil they reccommended and broke it in like they said. Still no luck. Their tech people said we must be doing something wrong.... Yeh right. We put in a set that cost 1/2 the price and picked up 15 HP and no oil burn issues. That was all the proof I needed to never run them.

Total Seal makes a standard gap ring set- I think they call it "classic ring pack". I have run those with no problems.

If anyone cares:
I can tell you from experience that rings start touching each other and causing damage at around .010" gap. In trying to get some HP on dirt track motors we kept narrowing the gap... bad stuff below .011" The other thing we found is ring gap doesn't make that much diffrence between .015" and .025" in HP (less then 1/2 HP) We now run .020-.024 top and .022-.025 2nd on 90% of our setups.
Good info Mongle! Nice to hear from someone who has actually done the testing.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:14 PM   #74077
gofast1320
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Middle Tennessee
Oddometer: 694
14 tooth front

Got some stuff from procyle the other day and found time to get outside and play with the DR650. Put the 14 tooth front sprocket on and while in there put that seal retainer thing on it too. Even used locktite blue like I was supposed to. Adjusted the chain and fired it up. REMIND SELF TO GET NEW BATTERY. Its on its last legs even on trickle charger.
Took the bike for about a 5 mile run out back through the garden across the pasture through the woods across the creek and back. Absolutely love the difference in the way the bike runs with the 14t sprocket. Doesn't lug down at slow speed in first gear and is way easier to manage.
Soon as I get my mid pipe from Klientech I'll be posting about the X40FO hook up. Hope to see that before the week is out.
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:26 PM   #74078
buckrut1972
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Joined: May 2012
Location: New Kent, Va
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Loved every minute of it.

Got an opportunity to get a bigger bike and a friends dad make me an offer I can't pass up. So I'm sorry to see her go after a short time together here it goes.

09 DR650

SW Center Stand, Cycra Handguards, MRA Windshield, Epic Panniers, Hyper Lites, Renthal Bars, Acewell Digital Speedo, Seat Concepts upgrade, Smash Plate, Pelican Top Box (maybe), EBC pads, FMF exhaust, thousands of miles left on tires, recent oil and filter change. To much more to mention but you get the concept. Right at 8800 miles. Pics to follow.....located in West Point, Virginia, 30 miles east of Richmond. Got it out there on CL for $4700 but I'll give an inmate discount!! PM for any interest.
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:54 PM   #74079
SoPaRider
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Joined: May 2007
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Searching for a source for '96 DR650SE purple frame touch-up paint?

Does anyone know of a source for the purple frame paint used on the 1996 Suzuki DR650SE and other models of that era? ColorRite.com only shows Code 30H-Special White-4037 available for the 1996 model, which would have been for the white fuel tank, rear rack, etc..
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:25 PM   #74080
805gregg
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Location: Ojai, Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
anyone here having trouble finding the SeatConcepts website? I can't find it.

I get a weird redirect that doesn't have M/C seats.
Just go to Sargent, they will be there
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:12 PM   #74081
Emmbeedee
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Location: Near Ottawa, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 805gregg View Post
Just go to Sargent, they will be there
Or ProCycle. The Saddlemen seat is great.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:38 PM   #74082
badweatherbiker
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anyone have an upper chain guard you want to part with? I figure since replacing everything else why not put the missing guard on there...
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:59 PM   #74083
planemanx15
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Location: Long Island, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I would get some professional help on the rebuild. There are SO MANY places to make mistakes ... even for guys with experience.

CLUTCH
Clean plates with oil, wipe off very well. Soak plates in clean oil for 2 - 3 hours before install. DO NOT use synthetic oil in new engine.

I would be more worried about metal bits still inside the engine, oil lines, Oil pump, oil cooler/hoses. Flush it all out a couple times with cheap oil or oil and Kerosene mix before running. Do an Engine oil and filter change after 20 miles. (to be safe). Another at 200 miles. Best of luck ... but luck won't help really. Get a pro to help out.
Amen to that brother lol
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:24 PM   #74084
dman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckrut1972 View Post
What is that mini-tankbag? Thanks.

-dman
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:26 PM   #74085
smilin jack
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Location: Lebanon Oregon
Oddometer: 1,226
DR650 Chain guard

Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
anyone have an upper chain guard you want to part with? I figure since replacing everything else why not put the missing guard on there...
Broke my chain guard and found a CB550 Honda chain guard fits great but is a little long. Tin snips cut it to length and got it cheap at a bike wrecking yard. Much heavier duty plastic and metal lined and the mounting holes lined up perfectly.



Dave
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