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Old 02-26-2013, 06:33 AM   #74086
frecks
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Location: Michigan, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I would get some professional help on the rebuild. There are SO MANY places to make mistakes ... even for guys with experience.

CLUTCH
Clean plates with oil, wipe off very well. Soak plates in clean oil for 2 - 3 hours before install. DO NOT use synthetic oil in new engine.

I would be more worried about metal bits still inside the engine, oil lines, Oil pump, oil cooler/hoses. Flush it all out a couple times with cheap oil or oil and Kerosene mix before running. Do an Engine oil and filter change after 20 miles. (to be safe). Another at 200 miles. Best of luck ... but luck won't help really. Get a pro to help out.
Thanks for the advice! I actually got an entire bottom end from someone who was parting out their bike. I'm just swapping my cylinder, piston, head, and clutch onto the new bottom end. Much easier since I don't have to split the cases or worry about the metal bits still in the bottom end. I will be taking your advice regarding oil/filter changes anyway though. I've got a couple of very experienced inmates that are helping me out with this project. It's already stripped down and we will be starting to put it back together as soon as my wrist pin and rings get here.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:21 AM   #74087
Rob.G
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Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Anybody use dirtskins?
I have a set of these I just got from ProCycle. They work fine. I'll admit I preferred the previous ones I got from them that were one-piece (you had to remove the fork tubes to install them)... these have velcro, so it takes a little patience to get them just right. Then secure with zipties.

Rob
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:09 AM   #74088
Bronco638
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Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS
Anybody use dirtskins?
I am too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by greer
Factory gaiters are the ticket, in my opinion. I used skins on another bike and they are plenty nice, but you have to take care to install them securely in order to keep them in place and check them frequently to make sure they haven't slipped. With factory gaiters you're good to go.

Sarah
My gaiters looked funky because they're used to being a certain length and are now "squashed". The DR came without lower clamps and the p.o. had secured them with Zip Ties. That seemed to work OK. With the DirtSkinz, they're long enough to push them past the thickest diameter of the lower fork leg. I secure them with Zip Ties just below where the fork seals reside. They can't move upwards at all. But, Sarah brings up a good point, check to make sure they're secure and have not slipped and you should be fine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G
I have a set of these I just got from ProCycle. They work fine. I'll admit I preferred the previous ones I got from them that were one-piece (you had to remove the fork tubes to install them)... these have velcro, so it takes a little patience to get them just right. Then secure with zipties.

Rob
Yeah, the Velcro can be a little touchy to get just right.
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:26 AM   #74089
ER70S-2
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There is a front and rear on the stock boots. The bottom pleat has a series of holes to vent, these go to the rear. If they're in the front, they'll act like scoops for dust and water. The cast line on the boot (2 per boot), goes to the outside as an alignment guide.
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:07 PM   #74090
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
Factory gaiters are the ticket, in my opinion. I used skins on another bike and they are plenty nice, but you have to take care to install them securely in order to keep them in place and check them frequently to make sure they haven't slipped. With factory gaiters you're good to go.

Sarah
I like factory gaiters too ... but I don't believe they are maintenance free. If you dirt ride, rain ride or ride in mud ... it's best to loosen clamps and clean dirt/mud out from around fork seal. It collects there and will eventually cause a seal failure. Otherwise, they are great.

(remember, the stock gaiters have little vent/drain holes ... and that is how the water and dirt gets in)
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:09 PM   #74091
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frecks View Post
Thanks for the advice! I actually got an entire bottom end from someone who was parting out their bike. I'm just swapping my cylinder, piston, head, and clutch onto the new bottom end. Much easier since I don't have to split the cases or worry about the metal bits still in the bottom end. I will be taking your advice regarding oil/filter changes anyway though. I've got a couple of very experienced inmates that are helping me out with this project. It's already stripped down and we will be starting to put it back together as soon as my wrist pin and rings get here.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
EXCELLENT! I hope you have time to keep us all updated here!
Hope it goes well!
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:16 PM   #74092
VBdiver
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Location: Virginia Beach,VA
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Question wheel bearing dust cover &

bike has 26,000 miles & I know nothing about what has been maintained . I replaced my wheel bearings today . They seemed OK except for the biggest one inside the sprocket hub & that was sketchy , so decided to do all . Good experience to learn this motorcycle nonetheless . It wasn't as easy a task as I expected .
The one thing i didn't note was which direction the dust cover goes on ? One side is flat & the other has a double lip . Which side faces the bearing ?

Also the bearing are Moose Racing from ProCycle & have a blue seal On both sides , am I to assume they don't get packed with grease ? That's probably a dumb question but i'm gonna ask anyway .
Aside from wiping down the axles with grease prior to installation , I really don't see any area to gobb any extra grease as the axles are covered internally with a spacer tube ?

thanks
VBdiver



..

VBdiver screwed with this post 02-27-2013 at 02:40 AM
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:26 PM   #74093
Mr. Canoehead
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Location: Calgary, Too far to the mountains and too cold
Oddometer: 1,787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I would get some professional help on the rebuild. There are SO MANY places to make mistakes ... even for guys with experience.

CLUTCH
Clean plates with oil, wipe off very well. Soak plates in clean oil for 2 - 3 hours before install. DO NOT use synthetic oil in new engine.

I would be more worried about metal bits still inside the engine, oil lines, Oil pump, oil cooler/hoses. Flush it all out a couple times with cheap oil or oil and Kerosene mix before running. Do an Engine oil and filter change after 20 miles. (to be safe). Another at 200 miles. Best of luck ... but luck won't help really. Get a pro to help out.
There is an expression: "Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

Where are you going to get experience if someone else does it for you? Pro's are on the clock and just want to get it done and move on - nothing wrong with that but it doesn't help you learn.

Better to read lots, watch U-Tube videos and talk with experienced amateurs and yes, make a mistake or two.

I actually went to the Suzuki manual and checked - no comment on gapping the rings - I don't think I have ever seen a shop manual skip such an important step before.
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:19 PM   #74094
Chill
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Location: QLD Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VBdiver View Post
the bearing are Moose Racing from ProCycle & have a blue seal On both sides , am I to assume they don't get packed with grease ? That's probably a dumb question but i'm gonna ask anyway .
The manual says to apply grease to the bearings but I believe the STD bearings are only sealed one side. If your Moose bearings are sealed both sides I think they're ready to use.
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Old 02-27-2013, 04:14 AM   #74095
Thunderhart8
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Location: Jackson, MS
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I have a set of fly aero racing handlebars 1 1/8" , i think, with a protaper mount. I also have the stock handlebars which are wider i like. The fly bars are bent from playing to hard in the mud. So I decided that I wanted to go to stock and disassembled the handlebar with all the goodies. When I went to place the stock bars on there is a huge gap for the protaper mount and stock handelbars. Admittedly at this point I placed my beer down and I am taking a break.
I have lost the original mount and the protaper raises the bars up almost 2 inches away, much more comfortable. Is there a spacer or something out there that is available for purchase? If not I will suppose that fabricating would not be difficult. I was also thinking of placing a rubber spacer in the mount to absorb some of the natural shaking of the motor.

Your input and experience is most appreciated..
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:33 AM   #74096
rpet
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Location: Brooklyn, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderhart8 View Post
I have a set of fly aero racing handlebars 1 1/8" , i think, with a protaper mount. I also have the stock handlebars which are wider i like. The fly bars are bent from playing to hard in the mud. So I decided that I wanted to go to stock and disassembled the handlebar with all the goodies. When I went to place the stock bars on there is a huge gap for the protaper mount and stock handelbars. Admittedly at this point I placed my beer down and I am taking a break.
I have lost the original mount and the protaper raises the bars up almost 2 inches away, much more comfortable. Is there a spacer or something out there that is available for purchase? If not I will suppose that fabricating would not be difficult. I was also thinking of placing a rubber spacer in the mount to absorb some of the natural shaking of the motor.

Your input and experience is most appreciated..
As far as I know there aren't any oversize to std (1 1/8" to 7/8") handlebar converters. Usually you are trying to convert the other way.

It shouldn't be too hard to find some used stock DR650 bar mounts for sale.

But IMHO you should spend the bones to pick up a new set of oversize bars. Renthals and ProTapers are worth the extra cost.
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:37 AM   #74097
VooDooDaddy
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Location: SW Iowa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderhart8 View Post

Your input and experience is most appreciated..
I am a very experienced, amatuer mechanic who has build several motorcycles starting from a bare frame. I have owned 37 motorcycles in 17 years; I have roadraced for many years, and in that time have only had to take one of my bikes to a 'real' mechanic on two occasions.

Having said that, I would not suggest you attempt to fabricate some kind of bushings to go between the stock, smaller diameter bars and the fat-taper bar mounts. Simply because the handlebars (which mount/contain all the control surfaces/interfaces) are such an important piece of the safety and control of the machine. I would attempt to fabricate parts for this area about as much as I would attempt to fabricate a new part for the brakes.

In other words, I wouldn't even try it. My recommendation is to buy a well engineered, proven part from a manufacturer such as a new 7/8 bar mounting kit, or try to find an inmate with the stock parts you need lying around somewhere who will sell them to you for cheap.

Getting this area wrong in the slightest way could have catastrophic consequences as you can imagine.
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:38 AM   #74098
VooDooDaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
But IMHO you should spend the bones to pick up a new set of oversize bars. Renthals and ProTapers are worth the extra cost.
Yeah,...what he said.
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:38 AM   #74099
Albie
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Location: NWA
Oddometer: 9,820
Quote:
Originally Posted by VBdiver View Post
bike has 26,000 miles & I know nothing about what has been maintained . I replaced my wheel bearings today . They seemed OK except for the biggest one inside the sprocket hub & that was sketchy , so decided to do all . Good experience to learn this motorcycle nonetheless . It wasn't as easy a task as I expected .
The one thing i didn't note was which direction the dust cover goes on ? One side is flat & the other has a double lip . Which side faces the bearing ?

Also the bearing are Moose Racing from ProCycle & have a blue seal On both sides , am I to assume they don't get packed with grease ? That's probably a dumb question but i'm gonna ask anyway .
Aside from wiping down the axles with grease prior to installation , I really don't see any area to gobb any extra grease as the axles are covered internally with a spacer tube ?

thanks
VBdiver



..
I picked up bearings from a local bearing shop and those had seals on both sides, I just popped off the seals and greased up the bearings with some water proof grease, then popped the seals back on. No way I'd not grease them.
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:05 AM   #74100
Foot dragger
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderhart8 View Post
I have a set of fly aero racing handlebars 1 1/8" , i think, with a protaper mount. I also have the stock handlebars which are wider i like. The fly bars are bent from playing to hard in the mud. So I decided that I wanted to go to stock and disassembled the handlebar with all the goodies. When I went to place the stock bars on there is a huge gap for the protaper mount and stock handelbars. Admittedly at this point I placed my beer down and I am taking a break.
I have lost the original mount and the protaper raises the bars up almost 2 inches away, much more comfortable. Is there a spacer or something out there that is available for purchase? If not I will suppose that fabricating would not be difficult. I was also thinking of placing a rubber spacer in the mount to absorb some of the natural shaking of the motor.

Your input and experience is most appreciated..
There are some economy priced bars around that will fit the 1 and 1/8 bar mounts you have,hunt on ebay or rocky mountain.com

The stock bars will bend in a stiff breeze.
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