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Old 02-27-2013, 06:06 AM   #74101
VBdiver
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seals ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
I picked up bearings from a local bearing shop and those had seals on both sides, I just popped off the seals and greased up the bearings with some water proof grease, then popped the seals back on. No way I'd not grease them.

any input on seal direction ?
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:20 AM   #74102
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VBdiver View Post
any input on seal direction ?
If you are talking about the outside seals that push into the hubs and seal the spacers, put them in so that the raised letters are facing out so you can read them when everything is together.
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:29 AM   #74103
VBdiver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
If you are talking about the outside seals that push into the hubs and seal the spacers, put them in so that the raised letters are facing out so you can read them when everything is together.

Thanks
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:29 AM   #74104
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Hey guys, I found Eakins front shock valve rebuild, but I also bought a new rear spring. Can anybody point me to any info on advrider on replacing the rear shock spring. Im sure its not to bad, but a debriefing tutorial helps me. This is Eakins on the valves- very nice. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468588
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:21 AM   #74105
adventurebound9517
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Thanks for bringing this to my attention. I have recently changed out my springs and added Intemadators and had a heck of a time getting the caps back on because I just put it back together as it came apart, without any change to preload.
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:02 AM   #74106
maynard911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Canoehead View Post

I actually went to the Suzuki manual and checked - no comment on gapping the rings - I don't think I have ever seen a shop manual skip such an important step before.
Mine has it. Engine, Section 3, Page 38
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:58 AM   #74107
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Interesting. 3-38 in mine is transmission reassembly. The piston assembly in my manual starts on 3-52 and talks about clocking the rings and ring markings (both basic stuff) but no mention of measuring gaps.



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Old 02-27-2013, 12:43 PM   #74108
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Originally Posted by SoPaRider View Post
Does anyone know of a source for the purple frame paint used on the 1996 Suzuki DR650SE and other models of that era? ColorRite.com only shows Code 30H-Special White-4037 available for the 1996 model, which would have been for the white fuel tank, rear rack, etc..
I've been searching for that color paint too. Anyone??
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Old 02-27-2013, 12:55 PM   #74109
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New high quality bendable and LED off-road blinkers made in the US.
Check this out.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=853013
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:01 PM   #74110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
Hey guys, I found Eakins front shock valve rebuild, but I also bought a new rear spring. Can anybody point me to any info on advrider on replacing the rear shock spring. Im sure its not to bad, but a debriefing tutorial helps me. This is Eakins on the valves- very nice. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468588
I'm still happy with those Intiminators.
I spend alot of time touring on the road with my DR so they work well for that plus off-road it good to.
If you are going to use your DR more as a dirt bike (way to heavy IMO but that's just me) then taking the fork apart and going with gold valves would be a better way to go.

As far as the shock, you remove all the preload & then you need a spring compressor and then the lower piece comes out and slips over the shock shaft. then the spring comes off. i'd just google it for info or take the shock to a shop or suspension guy and pay them a few bucks to do it.
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:09 PM   #74111
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I always remove the seal from bearings (unless I know i'm using quality SKF bearings) and check how much grease is in there. You can use a pick or a needle and pop it out. There is a recess it sits and pops back in easy too.

Not sure of the quality of Moose bearings? Are they repackage All Balls - ie Chinese bearings? Or better quality bearings? All Balls are known to be real light on grease at times. Don't pack them full however, just 1/2 way full.

I've been buying SKF from Napa or a bearing shop lately.
They cost more but last longer.

Bearings:
-Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ
-Front wheel seal: 09284-23001
-Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ
2 x 6204 - 20x47x14
-Rear wheel seal (brake side): 09283-26019
1 x 26x47x7
-Lock nut from 2008 and newer: 08319-2118a
-Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RSJ
1 x 6205 - 25x52x15
-Cush Seal - 1 x 35x52x7
-------------------------------------------
Two 6003 2RS
Two 6204 2RS
One 6205 2RS


Quote:
Originally Posted by VBdiver View Post
bike has 26,000 miles & I know nothing about what has been maintained . I replaced my wheel bearings today . They seemed OK except for the biggest one inside the sprocket hub & that was sketchy , so decided to do all . Good experience to learn this motorcycle nonetheless . It wasn't as easy a task as I expected .
The one thing i didn't note was which direction the dust cover goes on ? One side is flat & the other has a double lip . Which side faces the bearing ?

Also the bearing are Moose Racing from ProCycle & have a blue seal On both sides , am I to assume they don't get packed with grease ? That's probably a dumb question but i'm gonna ask anyway .
Aside from wiping down the axles with grease prior to installation , I really don't see any area to gobb any extra grease as the axles are covered internally with a spacer tube ?

thanks
VBdiver



..
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:17 PM   #74112
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Canoehead View Post
Interesting. 3-38 in mine is transmission reassembly. The piston assembly in my manual starts on 3-52 and talks about clocking the rings and ring markings (both basic stuff) but no mention of measuring gaps.



I can't figure out how to copy from my manual, but on the very bottom of the page on 3-28 it shows how to measure this gap with a feeler gauge. This is a service limit. They are expecting that you would replace the rings with a stock set therefore, the gap would be correct because of Suzuki's quality control and no need to measure end gap on a new set of stock rings.

The thing with an aftermarket set is the possibility that the gap when new might not be correct. Then you might have to adjust the gap to allow for expansion.
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:37 PM   #74113
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Ok, I see that but (as you said) it is talking about service limits on old rings and doesn't say anything about new clearances. It is the Engine Components Inspection section.

I guess Suzuki might be that confident of their tolerances but every other shop manual I have ever used has recommended measuring the gaps on new rings. A noob reading this might reasonably assume that zero gap is what you want or that new rings don't have to be measured.

BTW, I am using Snag-It off my PDF copy of the manual to post images.
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Old 02-27-2013, 01:44 PM   #74114
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Canoehead View Post
..............

BTW, I am using Snag-It off my PDF copy of the manual to post images.
On any Windows machine, Press Alt PrtScrn to copy the active window to the buffer. You then have Paint in Accessories to paste it into and crop or whatever. All there now and works.
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Old 02-27-2013, 02:03 PM   #74115
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help

so this may have been covered somewhere else, but I need some help. I changed my oil a few months ago, and found a small metal dowel in the oil. I think it might be cam chain gear pin. does anyone know how much it might cost to have it put back, and is this something I might be able to do myself. I just want to ride my bike again.
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