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Old 03-01-2013, 01:53 PM   #74161
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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my buddy is a tall DR rider. he uses:

tall seat
http://seatconcepts.com/products#!/~...58&id=14815642

dropped foot pegs
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#controls

taller handlebars
Pro Taper SE ATV Mid

works very well for him.
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:56 PM   #74162
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
went to the local Napa today to pick up some bearings and all they had was house brand Napa with made in China on the box, the guy had a deer in headlights look when I asked for the seals/ spacers for the bearings. I even gave him the #s above
they can order skf bearings. i bought mine there. not all from US but none from China.
give him the seal measurements (those numbers are in mm)
sorry I don't have the front seal #s. i'm sure someone else does.
you could also mail order.

sorry those #s are suzuki oem part #s.
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...284-23001.html - front wheel
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...283-26019.html -rear wheel
i'm looking for cush seal oem part? anyone have that???

you can also order cheaper seals by the size number (ID X OD X width)

if you are carefully you can clean and reuse those bearing seals.

the rear is looking this this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Wheel-B...978d4f&vxp=mtr
front
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Wheel-...12684e&vxp=mtr

these kits use Boss bearings??? http://www.bossbearing.com/
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/sho...d.php?t=178970 - sounds like if you call in you can different quality bearing per your price desire.
no idea what spec that ebay kit has, but i'd guess Chinese for the price. i'd choose either American & Japanese bearings.

things are a bit wonky on their front bearing kit as they list 2 options yet the parts from 96-2012 are all the same???
http://www.bossbearing.com/DR650SE-s/5494.htm

------------------------------------------------------------------

here are all the updates notes I've gathered on the matter:

Bearings:
-Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ
2 - 17 x 35 x 10
-Front wheel seal:
2 - 23x35x7 (09284-23001 – Suzuki #)

-Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ
2 - 20x47x14
-Rear wheel seal (brake side):
1 - 26x47x7 (09283-26019 – Suzuki #)

-Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RSJ
1 - 25x52x15
-Cush Seal:
1 - 35x52x7
-------------------------------------------
Two 6003 2RS/RD/RSJ (2RSJ is the best spec)
Two 6204 2RS/RD/RSJ
One 6205 2RS/RD/RSJ
---------------------------------------------
Go for sealed both sides European or Jap bearings if you don't mind paying more . . . I sure don't.
Any brands like SKF, FAG, NSK etc.
If you want a good Jap sealed bearing for the rear axle hub (x 2) get Honda ones :
part number 96150-6204010 ( generic 6204 bearing ) 20 x 47 x 14 mm size.

Cush drive bearing is a 6205 generic 25 x 52 x 15mm
Honda part number 96150-6205010

Front wheel size is 6003 generic 17 x 35 x 10mm
Honda part # 91065-KA3-832

Before you pay for the Honda ones check they are made in Japan and sealed both sides !
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eakins screwed with this post 03-01-2013 at 02:42 PM
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:00 PM   #74163
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
my buddy is a tall DR rider. he uses:

tall seat
http://seatconcepts.com/products#!/~...58&id=14815642

dropped foot pegs
http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#controls

taller handlebars
Pro Taper SE ATV Mid

works very well for him.
Based on your input, I went with the Fly Racing ATV bars (same 150mm rise as the Pro Taper ATV Mid). Now I haven't ridden it since putting it together today... and I don't even know if it starts, lol, but here's the end-result. Thanks Eakins.





Edit: You guys aren't going to believe this, but since it wasn't sunny and warm, I didn't want to work outside for any longer than was necessary - so those are the OEM grips (under my rope-wrap) that were on the stock bars this morning.

Of course the throttle's grip didn't need removed to start the project... and while I loosened up all but the inner part of the left grip (by using a screwdriver under it), I ended up making a straight cut to open up that grip to take it off. While using it for sizing to mark the drill holes, I realized that it had a lot of grip on the knurled section of the Fly Racing handlebar... so I took the same rope wrap piece I had on it before, wound it tightly down and tied it... and now I'm re-using my left grip and rope again, lol. It's pretty stable. (scratch that, I just went out and tested it - it's rock solid, yet it has no glue under it, lol)

I'll wait until a warm day to change the grips out if I decide to do them.

I did re-route the throttle cables. As they sit now, they go between the handlebar base and the triple-tree (between the spacers/bar mounts), and then directly under the tank from there. Plenty of cable length, and my throttle-end is still on the top instead of underneath.
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Mambo Dave screwed with this post 03-01-2013 at 02:43 PM Reason: re-used left grip / both grips
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:51 PM   #74164
adventurebound9517
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Location: Lake Havasu City, AZ.
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Here is a way to lower your pegs even further that I discovered by accident. I had purchased the lowered pegs from Pro Cycle and had mounted them up. Recently I purchased a center stand and in the process of installing it I had to remove the foot peg from the bracket and the bike. Well when I reinstalled it I put the bracket on upside down, it will go either way. After I was finished I was standing at the back of the bike and noticed that the peg I removed was lower, so I sat on the bike to try it out and decided I liked it better so I removed the other one and changed it also, That being said you will loose some ground clearance, you will have to be the judge on weather that is a problem.
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:18 PM   #74165
Samford
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Driftin'
Oddometer: 62
Headlights wiring

Quick noob question for all of you...

I'm adding some Vision-X soltice LED lights (photo 1) that I want to switch on and off with the Highway Dirt Bikes top clamp switches similar to the red and black switches in photo 2 below. I don't want to power these LEDs from the headlight wires because I want these to run completely independently from the headlight. So my question is... can I wire them directly to the battery (with the switch in series of the ground wire of course) or do they need to be drawing power from the stator somewhere rather than directly from the battery? Will the stator keep the battery charged during operation if these two lights are drawing power directly from the battery?

Thanks in advance guys.

Photo 1


Photo 2
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:54 PM   #74166
Obard
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Kapowsin, Washington
Oddometer: 26
I love my Dr650

Well, after a year and a half (it sat awhile) I finally finished my first valve adjustment. Thank you BergDonk, ProCycle, and some family and friends who gave me a lesson in engines. After swallowing a tappet screw and nut, making a terrible racket, needing a valve adjustment for some time ... this bike just purrs when running right. Went for a great ride. Thanks inmates for all your help.
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:04 PM   #74167
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Hey, Obard:

Thanks for the follow-up.

Wait-a-minit

How far did you have to get in the engine? Were you able to fish out the pieces and reinstall them?
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:13 PM   #74168
805gregg
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Ojai, Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
went to the local Napa today to pick up some bearings and all they had was house brand Napa with made in China on the box, the guy had a deer in headlights look when I asked for the seals/ spacers for the bearings. I even gave him the #s above
Go to a specilty bearing house like Kaman Bearings
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:55 PM   #74169
TrophyHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammalamma View Post

Photo 2
I don't have an answer for you.....but that's a beautiful dash!
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:54 PM   #74170
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
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Sam,

I think those lights come with a relay designed to go to the battery. The switch on the bar will run the relay.

I can not think of any reason ever to wire to the stator. I'm not even sure the stator is dc power- I think it gets converted by the rectifyer. Dont quote me on that though...
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:06 PM   #74171
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
Oddometer: 538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mainedr View Post
I've been searching for that color paint too. Anyone??
i dont know if its the same for bikes but when i cut some rust out of my car a local paint specialist looked on the VIN plate (the information plate on the frame/chassie) and pulled the colour code off it and mixed up a pressure pack can of the paint that was the exact match for me.
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:28 AM   #74172
greener556
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Thinking about relocating my key switch with a DRZ keyswitch and an HDB key switch mount. Has anyone done this? I thought I saw something a while back that you need to install a resistor on one of the wires?
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:53 AM   #74173
gofast1320
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Tire size

Does anyone know what the fattest tire is you can run on the front and rear on a stock DR650?
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:01 AM   #74174
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Minor problem from handlebar change-out: won't start

My DR won't turn-over/ start after changing out the handlebars.

Well, I knew this was a possibility based on the experience of a friend 25 years ago... but it was an off-day and I didn't test the bike at all after installing them yesterday.

So my morning commute was changed from a ride with my new bars to driving the truck.

I'm quite sure I must have pulled some wire connection that didn't want pulled.

Where, kind sirs, in your experiences would you have me look first?

Symptoms:

Turn key on - get the neutral green light and the light for the high beam.

Push start button - nothing changes.

Rider - sitting on bike, dressed for cooler weather and work, laughing at himself... then pushing the bike back to its parking space, later driving off in a 1999 F-150 sans motorcycling gear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Does anyone know what the fattest tire is you can run on the front and rear on a stock DR650?
Are you looking for fattest, or tallest? I went for the gearing change of taller, but am sure there is still room for more.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:22 AM   #74175
SingleTrackJeff
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Pensacola, Fl.
Oddometer: 690
Which is the better upgrade for my DR

TM-40 Pumper Carburetor

Keihin FCR MX39 Carburetor

And will both work?


Any thoughts?






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