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Old 03-02-2013, 08:16 AM   #74176
greener556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
Mambo Dave,

Only 3 things you messed with that could do that:
Kill switch
Clutch safety switch (remove if you haven't already)
Starter switch

I've been foiled by the kill switch more than once, always the first thing I check now!

Clutch safety switch will leave you stranded at an inopportune time if it fails, better to bypass it now and not have to worry about it. Just means you have to pay more attention when starting the bike, lord knows I've nearly bumped mine off the sidestand a few times when I didn't put it in neutral first!

Starter switch is a known weak link on these bikes. Mine failed miserably and was replaced with a Highway Dirt Bikes switch assembly that is much more robust and half the price of OEM.

I would start with those three. There's not really anything that would be affected in the wiring harness while changing bars unless you were really tugging on the wires and cables. If something came unplugged, it would probably be behind the headlight shroud.

Tim

Does HDB make a switch assembly or just the mount for a switch? I was just wondering about this a couple posts above.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:18 AM   #74177
maynard911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Does anyone know what the fattest tire is you can run on the front and rear on a stock DR650?
According to the tire fitment chart that I have the widest tire recommended for a 1.85 (Stock front rim width) is a 90, and for the 2.50 rear, a 130. Any larger and the tire design profile is distorted.

If you want wider than that it's time to get new wider rims. The supermoto style 17's with a 3.50 front and 4.25 rear rim width usually run a 120 f and 150 r.

I have the 'adventure' setup on my bike with a 110/19 f and 150/17 r.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:33 AM   #74178
00Buck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Does anyone know what the fattest tire is you can run on the front and rear on a stock DR650?
My own experience, I have a Heidenau 140/80-17 Scout on the rear.
Lots of room.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:55 AM   #74179
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
Mambo Dave,

Only 3 things you messed with that could do that:
Kill switch
Clutch safety switch (remove if you haven't already)
Starter switch

I've been foiled by the kill switch more than once, always the first thing I check now!

Clutch safety switch will leave you stranded at an inopportune time if it fails, better to bypass it now and not have to worry about it. Just means you have to pay more attention when starting the bike, lord knows I've nearly bumped mine off the sidestand a few times when I didn't put it in neutral first!

Starter switch is a known weak link on these bikes. Mine failed miserably and was replaced with a Highway Dirt Bikes switch assembly that is much more robust and half the price of OEM.

I would start with those three. There's not really anything that would be affected in the wiring harness while changing bars unless you were really tugging on the wires and cables. If something came unplugged, it would probably be behind the headlight shroud.

Tim
Thanks Tim!

LOL, the only area I played with to get it to start was around the kill/starter switch wire area, TOTALLY forgetting about the clutch switch (or to even look to that side) before heading off to work. I'll look when I get home.

Did you bypass it at the clutch handle? Just solder the wires together?
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:58 AM   #74180
jessepitt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Thanks Tim!

LOL, the only area I played with to get it to start was around the kill/starter switch wire area, TOTALLY forgetting about the clutch switch (or to even look to that side) before heading off to work. I'll look when I get home.

Did you bypass it at the clutch handle? Just solder the wires together?

Just chase the wires to where they conect behind the cowl, diconnect them and plug them to themselves to make it a complete circut. This is the easiest mod on the bike, plus it's reversable.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:06 AM   #74181
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
Just chase the wires to where they conect behind the cowl, diconnect them and plug them to themselves to make it a complete circut. This is the easiest mod on the bike, plus it's reversable.
I didn't realize so many were doing this mod. Awesome! Thanks for the reply!
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:09 AM   #74182
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Yup!
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:10 AM   #74183
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so I picked up some rear wheel bearings and seals yesterday and went with KML 6204 and 6205 mainly because that is all anyone had in stock locally. The seals are in question though, I have a 30-4709 and a 30-5207, does anyone know if these are the right ones?
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:22 AM   #74184
TRAVELGUY
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The kill switch. Press and release. I think that will cure your problem.

TravelGuy


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
My DR won't turn-over/ start after changing out the handlebars.

Well, I knew this was a possibility based on the experience of a friend 25 years ago... but it was an off-day and I didn't test the bike at all after installing them yesterday.

So my morning commute was changed from a ride with my new bars to driving the truck.

I'm quite sure I must have pulled some wire connection that didn't want pulled.

Where, kind sirs, in your experiences would you have me look first?

Symptoms:

Turn key on - get the neutral green light and the light for the high beam.

Push start button - nothing changes.

Rider - sitting on bike, dressed for cooler weather and work, laughing at himself... then pushing the bike back to its parking space, later driving off in a 1999 F-150 sans motorcycling gear.



Are you looking for fattest, or tallest? I went for the gearing change of taller, but am sure there is still room for more.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:47 AM   #74185
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
My DR won't turn-over/ start after changing out the handlebars.

Well, I knew this was a possibility based on the experience of a friend 25 years ago... but it was an off-day and I didn't test the bike at all after installing them yesterday.SNIP
Yes, no doubt you've disturbed something when you removed the controls.
Could be either the kill switch or the clutch safety switch. Try wiggling wires gently ... see if that gets it to start. If not you may have to replace or take apart one or both switches. Good luck.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:49 AM   #74186
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleTrackJeff View Post
Which is the better upgrade for my DR

TM-40 Pumper Carburetor

Keihin FCR MX39 Carburetor
Some would argue that the TM is "more" adjustable, or more easily adjusted. On the FCR, all openings besides idle and WOT are controlled by needle shape and clip position. This may sound like an advantage, until you realize that for all intents an purposes, the needle must simultaneously have the correct diameters at heights that control 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 openings (if the "dots are connected" then the areas between these openings should be acceptably close). On the other hand, the TM needle only has to have the correct diameters at heights that control 1/2 and 3/4 openings, as 1/16 and 1/8 openings can be controlled by the pilot jet size and 1/4 opening can be controlled by the needle jet size.

Some are annoyed by the heavier throttle pull of the TM.

Note that with slide carbs in general you are stuck, for a given throttle position, with whatever shape and slope of fuel delivery curve you have, i.e. if you have some lean areas at some rpm and some rich areas at some other rpm, that cannot reasonably be fixed. All that can be done is to move the entire curve up and down, i.e. add or subtract fuel for the entire throttle position. If you add fuel, you will fix the lean areas, while making the richer areas worse. If you subtract fuel, you will fix the rich areas while making the lean areas worse.

The compression and ignition timing on a DR are probably such that the improved cylinder filling afforded by a slide carb will nothing but beneficial, but I'd still want to have a look at NOX or a cylinder pressure trace to be sure. Perhaps a move to premium would be in order.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:01 AM   #74187
Adv Grifter
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Derek,
What about the consideration of things like squirt duration and angle, the use of different pump diaphragms, different post heights, and tuning with the leak jet.

Last month's MCN had a nice piece on tuning an FCR. It talked about the various elements in this carb and the various options and kits available to fine tune it to suit use.

I went through this back in '08 when setting up my '07 WR250F. Since then much more has been learned. I'm running a JD Jetting kit (3 needle tapers, 4 main jets, two leak jets) in my WR and it's OK ... but from the MCN article I see that now there is more I could do ...
like using the Boyesen Quickshot or different pump rebuild kits.

I'm assuming some or all of these innovations could be applied to an FCR being used on the DR650.
Any thoughts on this?
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:12 AM   #74188
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Derek,
What about the consideration of things like squirt duration and angle, the use of different pump diaphragms, different post heights, and tuning with the leak jet.

Last month's MCN had a nice piece on tuning an FCR. It talked about the various elements in this carb and the various options and kits available to fine tune it to suit use.

I went through this back in '08 when setting up my '07 WR250F. Since then much more has been learned. I'm running a JD Jetting kit (3 needle tapers, 4 main jets, two leak jets) in my WR and it's OK ... but from the MCN article I see that now there is more I could do ...
like using the Boyesen Quickshot or different pump rebuild kits.

I'm assuming some or all of these innovations could be applied to an FCR being used on the DR650.
Any thoughts on this?
Of course tuning flexibility of any kind is a great, but in my experience there are instances where people unnecessarily engage in inordinate gymnastics with the pump when in fact the jetting is incorrect and should be tuned instead.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:14 PM   #74189
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Some would argue that the TM is "more" adjustable, or more easily adjusted. On the FCR, all openings besides idle and WOT are controlled by needle shape and clip position. This may sound like an advantage, until you realize that for all intents an purposes, the needle must simultaneously have the correct diameters at heights that control 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 openings (if the "dots are connected" then the areas between these openings should be acceptably close). On the other hand, the TM needle only has to have the correct diameters at heights that control 1/2 and 3/4 openings, as 1/16 and 1/8 openings can be controlled by the pilot jet size and 1/4 opening can be controlled by the needle jet size.

Some are annoyed by the heavier throttle pull of the TM.

Note that with slide carbs in general you are stuck, for a given throttle position, with whatever shape and slope of fuel delivery curve you have, i.e. if you have some lean areas at some rpm and some rich areas at some other rpm, that cannot reasonably be fixed. All that can be done is to move the entire curve up and down, i.e. add or subtract fuel for the entire throttle position. If you add fuel, you will fix the lean areas, while making the richer areas worse. If you subtract fuel, you will fix the rich areas while making the lean areas worse.

The compression and ignition timing on a DR are probably such that the improved cylinder filling afforded by a slide carb will nothing but beneficial, but I'd still want to have a look at NOX or a cylinder pressure trace to be sure. Perhaps a move to premium would be in order.

Regards,

Derek
What is the reasoning behind a change to premium fuel with just a carb change? I haven't heard of this before.
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X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
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." --
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:42 PM   #74190
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
What is the reasoning behind a change to premium fuel with just a carb change? I haven't heard of this before.
The sentence, "The compression and ignition timing on a DR are probably such that the improved cylinder filling afforded by a slide carb will nothing but beneficial, but I'd still want to have a look at NOX or a cylinder pressure trace to be sure" should explain that.

Regards,

Derek
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