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Old 03-01-2013, 05:54 PM   #74191
Obard
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Kapowsin, Washington
Oddometer: 26
I love my Dr650

Well, after a year and a half (it sat awhile) I finally finished my first valve adjustment. Thank you BergDonk, ProCycle, and some family and friends who gave me a lesson in engines. After swallowing a tappet screw and nut, making a terrible racket, needing a valve adjustment for some time ... this bike just purrs when running right. Went for a great ride. Thanks inmates for all your help.
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:04 PM   #74192
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 5,450
Hey, Obard:

Thanks for the follow-up.

Wait-a-minit

How far did you have to get in the engine? Were you able to fish out the pieces and reinstall them?
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:13 PM   #74193
805gregg
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Ojai, Ca
Oddometer: 1,520
Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
went to the local Napa today to pick up some bearings and all they had was house brand Napa with made in China on the box, the guy had a deer in headlights look when I asked for the seals/ spacers for the bearings. I even gave him the #s above
Go to a specilty bearing house like Kaman Bearings
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:55 PM   #74194
TrophyHunter
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Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammalamma View Post

Photo 2
I don't have an answer for you.....but that's a beautiful dash!
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2005 DR650 2003 DRZ-250
2013 HD Road King '73 Hodaka Wombat

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Old 03-01-2013, 08:54 PM   #74195
Mongle
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: North Carolina Y'all
Oddometer: 2,408
Sam,

I think those lights come with a relay designed to go to the battery. The switch on the bar will run the relay.

I can not think of any reason ever to wire to the stator. I'm not even sure the stator is dc power- I think it gets converted by the rectifyer. Dont quote me on that though...
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:06 PM   #74196
blackcap
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
Oddometer: 537
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mainedr View Post
I've been searching for that color paint too. Anyone??
i dont know if its the same for bikes but when i cut some rust out of my car a local paint specialist looked on the VIN plate (the information plate on the frame/chassie) and pulled the colour code off it and mixed up a pressure pack can of the paint that was the exact match for me.
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:28 AM   #74197
greener556
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Iowa
Oddometer: 112
Thinking about relocating my key switch with a DRZ keyswitch and an HDB key switch mount. Has anyone done this? I thought I saw something a while back that you need to install a resistor on one of the wires?
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:53 AM   #74198
gofast1320
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Middle Tennessee
Oddometer: 669
Tire size

Does anyone know what the fattest tire is you can run on the front and rear on a stock DR650?
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:01 AM   #74199
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: 11 ft. AMSL
Oddometer: 4,968
Minor problem from handlebar change-out: won't start

My DR won't turn-over/ start after changing out the handlebars.

Well, I knew this was a possibility based on the experience of a friend 25 years ago... but it was an off-day and I didn't test the bike at all after installing them yesterday.

So my morning commute was changed from a ride with my new bars to driving the truck.

I'm quite sure I must have pulled some wire connection that didn't want pulled.

Where, kind sirs, in your experiences would you have me look first?

Symptoms:

Turn key on - get the neutral green light and the light for the high beam.

Push start button - nothing changes.

Rider - sitting on bike, dressed for cooler weather and work, laughing at himself... then pushing the bike back to its parking space, later driving off in a 1999 F-150 sans motorcycling gear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Does anyone know what the fattest tire is you can run on the front and rear on a stock DR650?
Are you looking for fattest, or tallest? I went for the gearing change of taller, but am sure there is still room for more.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:22 AM   #74200
SingleTrackJeff
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Pensacola, Fl.
Oddometer: 593
Which is the better upgrade for my DR

TM-40 Pumper Carburetor

Keihin FCR MX39 Carburetor

And will both work?


Any thoughts?






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Old 03-02-2013, 07:46 AM   #74201
TrophyHunter
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Location: San Diego
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Jeff - I've had both so yes, they'll both work. I had the FCR but sold it as my son's bike had the TM40 and I wanted the bikes to be as identical as possible for long range travel.

They'll both work well and I really couldn't tell the difference...other than a slightly harder throttle twist with the TM. The FCR has a roller slide so twist resistance is minimal.

Unless you want to get really spendy, you'll most likely get a used FCR, modded for the DR. Even if you do it yourself, some parts will be new, some old. The FCR is a more complex carb. The cables are more protected at the carb but is a neglible item unless you plan on packing mud in there. It hasn't been an issue on the TM nor have I ever read of it being one.

The TM-40 is brand new. It's also not as tight as a fit as the FCR.

I got my TM-40 from Procycle and asked them to set it up for me based on mods to the bike & elevation. Plug & play and I haven't touched it after the install.

I did aim the squirt tube at the needle prior to install based on a recommendation from Tech23. Runs perfect.
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2005 DR650 2003 DRZ-250
2013 HD Road King '73 Hodaka Wombat

"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:50 AM   #74202
3DChief
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Montana
Oddometer: 411
Mambo Dave,

Only 3 things you messed with that could do that:
Kill switch
Clutch safety switch (remove if you haven't already)
Starter switch

I've been foiled by the kill switch more than once, always the first thing I check now!

Clutch safety switch will leave you stranded at an inopportune time if it fails, better to bypass it now and not have to worry about it. Just means you have to pay more attention when starting the bike, lord knows I've nearly bumped mine off the sidestand a few times when I didn't put it in neutral first!

Starter switch is a known weak link on these bikes. Mine failed miserably and was replaced with a Highway Dirt Bikes switch assembly that is much more robust and half the price of OEM.

I would start with those three. There's not really anything that would be affected in the wiring harness while changing bars unless you were really tugging on the wires and cables. If something came unplugged, it would probably be behind the headlight shroud.

Tim
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:16 AM   #74203
greener556
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Iowa
Oddometer: 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
Mambo Dave,

Only 3 things you messed with that could do that:
Kill switch
Clutch safety switch (remove if you haven't already)
Starter switch

I've been foiled by the kill switch more than once, always the first thing I check now!

Clutch safety switch will leave you stranded at an inopportune time if it fails, better to bypass it now and not have to worry about it. Just means you have to pay more attention when starting the bike, lord knows I've nearly bumped mine off the sidestand a few times when I didn't put it in neutral first!

Starter switch is a known weak link on these bikes. Mine failed miserably and was replaced with a Highway Dirt Bikes switch assembly that is much more robust and half the price of OEM.

I would start with those three. There's not really anything that would be affected in the wiring harness while changing bars unless you were really tugging on the wires and cables. If something came unplugged, it would probably be behind the headlight shroud.

Tim

Does HDB make a switch assembly or just the mount for a switch? I was just wondering about this a couple posts above.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:18 AM   #74204
maynard911
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Bisbee AZ
Oddometer: 142
Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Does anyone know what the fattest tire is you can run on the front and rear on a stock DR650?
According to the tire fitment chart that I have the widest tire recommended for a 1.85 (Stock front rim width) is a 90, and for the 2.50 rear, a 130. Any larger and the tire design profile is distorted.

If you want wider than that it's time to get new wider rims. The supermoto style 17's with a 3.50 front and 4.25 rear rim width usually run a 120 f and 150 r.

I have the 'adventure' setup on my bike with a 110/19 f and 150/17 r.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:33 AM   #74205
00Buck
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: South Vancouver Island, BC
Oddometer: 196
Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Does anyone know what the fattest tire is you can run on the front and rear on a stock DR650?
My own experience, I have a Heidenau 140/80-17 Scout on the rear.
Lots of room.
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