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Old 03-02-2013, 12:14 PM   #74191
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Some would argue that the TM is "more" adjustable, or more easily adjusted. On the FCR, all openings besides idle and WOT are controlled by needle shape and clip position. This may sound like an advantage, until you realize that for all intents an purposes, the needle must simultaneously have the correct diameters at heights that control 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 openings (if the "dots are connected" then the areas between these openings should be acceptably close). On the other hand, the TM needle only has to have the correct diameters at heights that control 1/2 and 3/4 openings, as 1/16 and 1/8 openings can be controlled by the pilot jet size and 1/4 opening can be controlled by the needle jet size.

Some are annoyed by the heavier throttle pull of the TM.

Note that with slide carbs in general you are stuck, for a given throttle position, with whatever shape and slope of fuel delivery curve you have, i.e. if you have some lean areas at some rpm and some rich areas at some other rpm, that cannot reasonably be fixed. All that can be done is to move the entire curve up and down, i.e. add or subtract fuel for the entire throttle position. If you add fuel, you will fix the lean areas, while making the richer areas worse. If you subtract fuel, you will fix the rich areas while making the lean areas worse.

The compression and ignition timing on a DR are probably such that the improved cylinder filling afforded by a slide carb will nothing but beneficial, but I'd still want to have a look at NOX or a cylinder pressure trace to be sure. Perhaps a move to premium would be in order.

Regards,

Derek
What is the reasoning behind a change to premium fuel with just a carb change? I haven't heard of this before.
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:42 PM   #74192
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
What is the reasoning behind a change to premium fuel with just a carb change? I haven't heard of this before.
The sentence, "The compression and ignition timing on a DR are probably such that the improved cylinder filling afforded by a slide carb will nothing but beneficial, but I'd still want to have a look at NOX or a cylinder pressure trace to be sure" should explain that.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:46 PM   #74193
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Originally Posted by greener556 View Post
Thinking about relocating my key switch with a DRZ keyswitch and an HDB key switch mount. Has anyone done this? I thought I saw something a while back that you need to install a resistor on one of the wires?
Speak with Paul at HDB. He's the man that'll answer all of your questions above and beyond your expectations. He's an absolute pleasure to deal with.
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:21 PM   #74194
badweatherbiker
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Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
so I picked up some rear wheel bearings and seals yesterday and went with KML 6204 and 6205 mainly because that is all anyone had in stock locally. The seals are in question though, I have a 30-4709 and a 30-5207, does anyone know if these are the right ones?
im quoting myself but the seals I have are a fraction wider than the stockers will they work? they are not easy to put on.....
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:39 PM   #74195
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something just doesnt seem right. the bearing wont turn on its own with these seals installed......
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Old 03-02-2013, 02:59 PM   #74196
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAVELGUY View Post
The kill switch. Press and release. I think that will cure your problem.

TravelGuy
I wish it would have.


------

I'll have some time to work on it tomorrow. I'm laying odds that it's the clutch switch or wiring to the clutch switch.
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:00 PM   #74197
greener556
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Originally Posted by Sammalamma View Post
Speak with Paul at HDB. He's the man that'll answer all of your questions above and beyond your expectations. He's an absolute pleasure to deal with.

Thanks for the response, I'll call Monday..
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:44 PM   #74198
badweatherbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
im quoting myself but the seals I have are a fraction wider than the stockers will they work? they are not easy to put on.....
so my rear wheel wont turn after my bearing install, what now...
I tapped everything in slowly while measuring to see if I was straight, once I did get a little off but it straightened out
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badweatherbiker screwed with this post 03-02-2013 at 07:01 PM
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:04 PM   #74199
gofast1320
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tire sizes

Quote:
Originally Posted by 00Buck View Post
My own experience, I have a Heidenau 140/80-17 Scout on the rear.
Lots of room.
Hey Maynard911 and OOBuck- Thanks for the info That's exactly what I needed to know.
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:13 PM   #74200
canoli
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Ok this shit with the Safari tank is getting annoying. When riding on the street at a slow but consistent speed my bike often sputters, backfires and dies. When riding off road at higher revs I have no problems. I've checked and cleaned the little filter at the inlet, there are no holes in the fuel line and when I open the cap and let air in, the bike eventually starts. I'm thinking it's vapor lock, but since I am using the locking gas cap there is no clear vent for me to try and clear ( at least I can't see it).

The questions to the collective are :
Does this sound right to you?
If so how do I clear the vent in the cap and/or where can I go to purchase a normal venting cap (Safari tanks on line did not have them)?

Thanks,
Canoli
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:22 PM   #74201
FlowBee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Ok this shit with the Safari tank is getting annoying. When riding on the street at a slow but consistent speed my bike often sputters, backfires and dies. When riding off road at higher revs I have no problems. I've checked and cleaned the little filter at the inlet, there are no holes in the fuel line and when I open the cap and let air in, the bike eventually starts. I'm thinking it's vapor lock, but since I am using the locking gas cap there is no clear vent for me to try and clear ( at least I can't see it).

The questions to the collective are :
Does this sound right to you?
If so how do I clear the vent in the cap and/or where can I go to purchase a normal venting cap (Safari tanks on line did not have them)?

Thanks,
Canoli

The locking gas cap has been known to create vapor lock problems. Was it fixed? I perforated mine a whole bunch according to ProCycle's instructions, but it still created rare occasional vacuum issues. I went back to the non-locking cap with the stubby 2" valve/hose and things have been perfect since. It also works fine with my GiantLoop Fandango tank bag.

FB
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:35 PM   #74202
SkunkWizard
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chopped pegs

when I cut down my pegs I added more cleat to them. using hot roll stock, heat bend & cut notches.
added to the brake lever also. (longer bolts thru the frame)



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Old 03-02-2013, 05:58 PM   #74203
Harry94025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkWizard View Post
when I cut down my pegs I added more cleat to them. using hot roll stock, heat bend & cut notches.
added to the brake lever also. (longer bolts thru the frame)



Did you make that carbon fiber clutch cover reinforcement? Is there also one on the stator cover?

Harry
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:11 PM   #74204
Mambo Dave
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Just how did you make the traction spikes/dimples on the bar stock?
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that more people cruise the internet looking for reasons why
X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
their motorcycles
." --
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:36 PM   #74205
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Ok this shit with the Safari tank is getting annoying. When riding on the street at a slow but consistent speed my bike often sputters, backfires and dies. When riding off road at higher revs I have no problems. I've checked and cleaned the little filter at the inlet, there are no holes in the fuel line and when I open the cap and let air in, the bike eventually starts. I'm thinking it's vapor lock, but since I am using the locking gas cap there is no clear vent for me to try and clear ( at least I can't see it).

The questions to the collective are :
Does this sound right to you?
If so how do I clear the vent in the cap and/or where can I go to purchase a normal venting cap (Safari tanks on line did not have them)?

Thanks,
Canoli
My locking cap sometimes stops venting properly if I let the DR sit for a week or so, seemingly, without treating the ethanol fuel. I simply re-vent the cap as Procycle described in this thread. Then it's good until the next time I neglect to treat the ethanol before letting it sit.

Since learning the re-venting trick, I've been really happy with the locking cap. I've had it about a year and a half now. I'm also careful not to strip the mechanism when I first unlock it to spin it off. I get full engagement before applying any real torque on it...gradually.
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