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Old 03-02-2013, 05:44 PM   #74206
badweatherbiker
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Location: North Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
im quoting myself but the seals I have are a fraction wider than the stockers will they work? they are not easy to put on.....
so my rear wheel wont turn after my bearing install, what now...
I tapped everything in slowly while measuring to see if I was straight, once I did get a little off but it straightened out
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badweatherbiker screwed with this post 03-02-2013 at 08:01 PM
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:04 PM   #74207
gofast1320
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tire sizes

Quote:
Originally Posted by 00Buck View Post
My own experience, I have a Heidenau 140/80-17 Scout on the rear.
Lots of room.
Hey Maynard911 and OOBuck- Thanks for the info That's exactly what I needed to know.
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:13 PM   #74208
canoli
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Ok this shit with the Safari tank is getting annoying. When riding on the street at a slow but consistent speed my bike often sputters, backfires and dies. When riding off road at higher revs I have no problems. I've checked and cleaned the little filter at the inlet, there are no holes in the fuel line and when I open the cap and let air in, the bike eventually starts. I'm thinking it's vapor lock, but since I am using the locking gas cap there is no clear vent for me to try and clear ( at least I can't see it).

The questions to the collective are :
Does this sound right to you?
If so how do I clear the vent in the cap and/or where can I go to purchase a normal venting cap (Safari tanks on line did not have them)?

Thanks,
Canoli
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:22 PM   #74209
FlowBee
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Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Stasis.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Ok this shit with the Safari tank is getting annoying. When riding on the street at a slow but consistent speed my bike often sputters, backfires and dies. When riding off road at higher revs I have no problems. I've checked and cleaned the little filter at the inlet, there are no holes in the fuel line and when I open the cap and let air in, the bike eventually starts. I'm thinking it's vapor lock, but since I am using the locking gas cap there is no clear vent for me to try and clear ( at least I can't see it).

The questions to the collective are :
Does this sound right to you?
If so how do I clear the vent in the cap and/or where can I go to purchase a normal venting cap (Safari tanks on line did not have them)?

Thanks,
Canoli

The locking gas cap has been known to create vapor lock problems. Was it fixed? I perforated mine a whole bunch according to ProCycle's instructions, but it still created rare occasional vacuum issues. I went back to the non-locking cap with the stubby 2" valve/hose and things have been perfect since. It also works fine with my GiantLoop Fandango tank bag.

FB
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:35 PM   #74210
SkunkWizard
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Location: "the Planet"
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chopped pegs

when I cut down my pegs I added more cleat to them. using hot roll stock, heat bend & cut notches.
added to the brake lever also. (longer bolts thru the frame)



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Old 03-02-2013, 06:58 PM   #74211
Harry94025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkWizard View Post
when I cut down my pegs I added more cleat to them. using hot roll stock, heat bend & cut notches.
added to the brake lever also. (longer bolts thru the frame)



Did you make that carbon fiber clutch cover reinforcement? Is there also one on the stator cover?

Harry
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:11 PM   #74212
Mambo Dave
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Just how did you make the traction spikes/dimples on the bar stock?
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:36 PM   #74213
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Ok this shit with the Safari tank is getting annoying. When riding on the street at a slow but consistent speed my bike often sputters, backfires and dies. When riding off road at higher revs I have no problems. I've checked and cleaned the little filter at the inlet, there are no holes in the fuel line and when I open the cap and let air in, the bike eventually starts. I'm thinking it's vapor lock, but since I am using the locking gas cap there is no clear vent for me to try and clear ( at least I can't see it).

The questions to the collective are :
Does this sound right to you?
If so how do I clear the vent in the cap and/or where can I go to purchase a normal venting cap (Safari tanks on line did not have them)?

Thanks,
Canoli
My locking cap sometimes stops venting properly if I let the DR sit for a week or so, seemingly, without treating the ethanol fuel. I simply re-vent the cap as Procycle described in this thread. Then it's good until the next time I neglect to treat the ethanol before letting it sit.

Since learning the re-venting trick, I've been really happy with the locking cap. I've had it about a year and a half now. I'm also careful not to strip the mechanism when I first unlock it to spin it off. I get full engagement before applying any real torque on it...gradually.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:38 PM   #74214
canoli
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
My locking cap sometimes stops venting properly if I let the DR sit for a week or so, seemingly, without treating the ethanol fuel. I simply re-vent the cap as Procycle described in this thread. Then it's good until the next time I neglect to treat the ethanol before letting it sit.

Since learning the re-venting trick, I've been really happy with the locking cap. I've had it about a year and a half now. I'm also careful not to strip the mechanism when I first unlock it to spin it off. I get full engagement before applying any real torque on it...gradually.
Thanks! I took a small piece of wire and pierced the rubber in the green nozzle at the bottom of the cap. I then poured some rubbing alcohol into it and cleaned out all the greese and gunk with q-tips and some compressed air. hopefully this will fix it.

cheers,
canoli
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:14 PM   #74215
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00Buck View Post
My own experience, I have a Heidenau 140/80-17 Scout on the rear.
Lots of room.
Jammin Jay uses that tire and size too.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:19 PM   #74216
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
something just doesnt seem right. the bearing wont turn on its own with these seals installed......
i'd say you have the wrong seals and they are binding the bearings.
take them out and install the wheel back in and see how it works.
the seals don't need to be in place for the bike to work.
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:34 AM   #74217
neo1piv014
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Joined: Aug 2011
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Maintenance Adventures

So I got my order in from Procycle to do a bunch of maintenance on my bike now that it's pretty much my only form of transport. I got their tune up kit, drive train kit, and TM40 carb. The drive chain was due up for replacement, so I held off until this weekend to do it all. Chain, drive rubbers, roller, and rear sprocket went on without a problem. However, I noticed as I was installing everything that the kit only comes with the new bolts and nuts for the rear (totally my mistake, the picture on their website only shows the rears as well). Long story short, I reused the 2001 era front sprocket bolts and one of the bastards sheared off when I tightened it down. So remember kids, over tightening bolts is not your friend. Time to order some new parts

On the plus side, this does give me a chance to focus on getting that carb installed tomorrow.
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:19 AM   #74218
Albie
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If you do much maintenance on your bike, you really need a torque wrench. Will save you a lot of grief down the road.
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:03 AM   #74219
Obard
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Kapowsin, Washington
Oddometer: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Hey, Obard:

Thanks for the follow-up.

Wait-a-minit

How far did you have to get in the engine? Were you able to fish out the pieces and reinstall them?
Good question ER70S, I got really lucky as far as that goes. At the local auto parts store, I paid $8 for a small telescoping magnet. Got the tappet screw out in 5 mins, took another 40 mins to find the lock nut. Literally, searching blind in the intake valve casm. They were all beat up, so I had to order a new set. Installed themm, followed bergdonks valve adjustment link, and am back in business.
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:02 AM   #74220
jessepitt
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Location: Redmond Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
Good question ER70S, I got really lucky as far as that goes. At the local auto parts store, I paid $8 for a small telescoping magnet. Got the tappet screw out in 5 mins, took another 40 mins to find the lock nut. Literally, searching blind in the intake valve casm. They were all beat up, so I had to order a new set. Installed themm, followed bergdonks valve adjustment link, and am back in business.

Wow, that's one of those really lucky/unlucky situations. Glad you got it all fixed.
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