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Old 03-02-2013, 08:36 PM   #74206
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Ok this shit with the Safari tank is getting annoying. When riding on the street at a slow but consistent speed my bike often sputters, backfires and dies. When riding off road at higher revs I have no problems. I've checked and cleaned the little filter at the inlet, there are no holes in the fuel line and when I open the cap and let air in, the bike eventually starts. I'm thinking it's vapor lock, but since I am using the locking gas cap there is no clear vent for me to try and clear ( at least I can't see it).

The questions to the collective are :
Does this sound right to you?
If so how do I clear the vent in the cap and/or where can I go to purchase a normal venting cap (Safari tanks on line did not have them)?

Thanks,
Canoli
My locking cap sometimes stops venting properly if I let the DR sit for a week or so, seemingly, without treating the ethanol fuel. I simply re-vent the cap as Procycle described in this thread. Then it's good until the next time I neglect to treat the ethanol before letting it sit.

Since learning the re-venting trick, I've been really happy with the locking cap. I've had it about a year and a half now. I'm also careful not to strip the mechanism when I first unlock it to spin it off. I get full engagement before applying any real torque on it...gradually.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:38 PM   #74207
canoli
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Joined: Jul 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
My locking cap sometimes stops venting properly if I let the DR sit for a week or so, seemingly, without treating the ethanol fuel. I simply re-vent the cap as Procycle described in this thread. Then it's good until the next time I neglect to treat the ethanol before letting it sit.

Since learning the re-venting trick, I've been really happy with the locking cap. I've had it about a year and a half now. I'm also careful not to strip the mechanism when I first unlock it to spin it off. I get full engagement before applying any real torque on it...gradually.
Thanks! I took a small piece of wire and pierced the rubber in the green nozzle at the bottom of the cap. I then poured some rubbing alcohol into it and cleaned out all the greese and gunk with q-tips and some compressed air. hopefully this will fix it.

cheers,
canoli
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:14 PM   #74208
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00Buck View Post
My own experience, I have a Heidenau 140/80-17 Scout on the rear.
Lots of room.
Jammin Jay uses that tire and size too.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:19 PM   #74209
eakins
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Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
something just doesnt seem right. the bearing wont turn on its own with these seals installed......
i'd say you have the wrong seals and they are binding the bearings.
take them out and install the wheel back in and see how it works.
the seals don't need to be in place for the bike to work.
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:34 AM   #74210
neo1piv014
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Oddometer: 619
Maintenance Adventures

So I got my order in from Procycle to do a bunch of maintenance on my bike now that it's pretty much my only form of transport. I got their tune up kit, drive train kit, and TM40 carb. The drive chain was due up for replacement, so I held off until this weekend to do it all. Chain, drive rubbers, roller, and rear sprocket went on without a problem. However, I noticed as I was installing everything that the kit only comes with the new bolts and nuts for the rear (totally my mistake, the picture on their website only shows the rears as well). Long story short, I reused the 2001 era front sprocket bolts and one of the bastards sheared off when I tightened it down. So remember kids, over tightening bolts is not your friend. Time to order some new parts

On the plus side, this does give me a chance to focus on getting that carb installed tomorrow.
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:19 AM   #74211
Albie
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Location: NWA
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If you do much maintenance on your bike, you really need a torque wrench. Will save you a lot of grief down the road.
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:03 AM   #74212
Obard
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Kapowsin, Washington
Oddometer: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Hey, Obard:

Thanks for the follow-up.

Wait-a-minit

How far did you have to get in the engine? Were you able to fish out the pieces and reinstall them?
Good question ER70S, I got really lucky as far as that goes. At the local auto parts store, I paid $8 for a small telescoping magnet. Got the tappet screw out in 5 mins, took another 40 mins to find the lock nut. Literally, searching blind in the intake valve casm. They were all beat up, so I had to order a new set. Installed themm, followed bergdonks valve adjustment link, and am back in business.
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:02 AM   #74213
jessepitt
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Location: Redmond Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
Good question ER70S, I got really lucky as far as that goes. At the local auto parts store, I paid $8 for a small telescoping magnet. Got the tappet screw out in 5 mins, took another 40 mins to find the lock nut. Literally, searching blind in the intake valve casm. They were all beat up, so I had to order a new set. Installed themm, followed bergdonks valve adjustment link, and am back in business.

Wow, that's one of those really lucky/unlucky situations. Glad you got it all fixed.
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:03 AM   #74214
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
If you do much maintenance on your bike, you really need a torque wrench. Will save you a lot of grief down the road.
I really do need to invest. Sears is going to be my next stop before the next project starts.
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:08 AM   #74215
RichBeBe
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NYC
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A million years ago we were doing a top end on a race bike and someone idiot who should remain nameless (cough! me! cough!) dropped a dowel into the cam chain tunnel and we could not get it out. Tried magnets, and anything else we could think of. Eventually with time running short someone got the idea to turn the bike upside down and shake it out. We laid a tarp on the ground four guys picked the bike up and sun it upside down and shook and the dowel came out.
We buttoned the bike back up and laughed about it. Of course the rider crashed on the warmup lap so all of our work was for naught.
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:16 AM   #74216
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: 11 ft. AMSL
Oddometer: 5,493
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
Mambo Dave,

Only 3 things you messed with that could do that:
Kill switch
Clutch safety switch (remove if you haven't already)
Starter switch

I've been foiled by the kill switch more than once, always the first thing I check now!

Clutch safety switch will leave you stranded at an inopportune time if it fails, better to bypass it now and not have to worry about it. Just means you have to pay more attention when starting the bike, lord knows I've nearly bumped mine off the sidestand a few times when I didn't put it in neutral first!

Starter switch is a known weak link on these bikes. Mine failed miserably and was replaced with a Highway Dirt Bikes switch assembly that is much more robust and half the price of OEM.

I would start with those three. There's not really anything that would be affected in the wiring harness while changing bars unless you were really tugging on the wires and cables. If something came unplugged, it would probably be behind the headlight shroud.

Tim
Finally got around to playing with it just now. The first place I went for was connecting the clutch wires together and omitting the clutch switch.

Tried it - it started!

Thanks Tim, and thanks guys!

My guess is that I may have tugged on the wires that go in to the clutch switch and screwed them up? I don't know, and I don't care. It's bypassed now.
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:21 AM   #74217
jessepitt
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Location: Redmond Oregon
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How about your kick stand switch? Is it still on the bike? They are easy to remove and have caused many people problems. Even if its working fine its still a PITA so I recommend ditching it. I'm glad the clutch switch turned out to fix your issue.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:11 AM   #74218
SkunkWizard
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: "the Planet"
Oddometer: 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry94025 View Post
Did you make that carbon fiber clutch cover reinforcement? Is there also one on the stator cover?

Harry
yes,yes & it's only one ply C/F bonded with multi-plies of Kevlar
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:12 AM   #74219
SkunkWizard
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Location: "the Planet"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Just how did you make the traction spikes/dimples on the bar stock?
Grinder/skills
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:15 AM   #74220
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
How about your kick stand switch? Is it still on the bike? They are easy to remove and have caused many people problems. Even if its working fine its still a PITA so I recommend ditching it. I'm glad the clutch switch turned out to fix your issue.
It is. The kickstand switch became an issue with my Kawasaki Vulcan (when I had it) as well. Instead of cleaning it, I simply bent down while on the bike and pulled at the spring-loaded sensor to wiggled/pulled it out to get it to start.

Is the bypass for the kickstand switch as easy?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkWizard View Post
Grinder/skills
That's all I have, so I should be good.

If I were to cut the pegs down for more room, all I have is a cutting wheel for my grinder - so that's how I'd do it as well.
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