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Old 03-03-2013, 06:03 AM   #74236
Obard
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Kapowsin, Washington
Oddometer: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Hey, Obard:

Thanks for the follow-up.

Wait-a-minit

How far did you have to get in the engine? Were you able to fish out the pieces and reinstall them?
Good question ER70S, I got really lucky as far as that goes. At the local auto parts store, I paid $8 for a small telescoping magnet. Got the tappet screw out in 5 mins, took another 40 mins to find the lock nut. Literally, searching blind in the intake valve casm. They were all beat up, so I had to order a new set. Installed themm, followed bergdonks valve adjustment link, and am back in business.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:02 AM   #74237
jessepitt
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Redmond Oregon
Oddometer: 993
Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
Good question ER70S, I got really lucky as far as that goes. At the local auto parts store, I paid $8 for a small telescoping magnet. Got the tappet screw out in 5 mins, took another 40 mins to find the lock nut. Literally, searching blind in the intake valve casm. They were all beat up, so I had to order a new set. Installed themm, followed bergdonks valve adjustment link, and am back in business.

Wow, that's one of those really lucky/unlucky situations. Glad you got it all fixed.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:03 AM   #74238
neo1piv014
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Oddometer: 619
Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
If you do much maintenance on your bike, you really need a torque wrench. Will save you a lot of grief down the road.
I really do need to invest. Sears is going to be my next stop before the next project starts.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:08 AM   #74239
RichBeBe
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: NYC
Oddometer: 6,038
A million years ago we were doing a top end on a race bike and someone idiot who should remain nameless (cough! me! cough!) dropped a dowel into the cam chain tunnel and we could not get it out. Tried magnets, and anything else we could think of. Eventually with time running short someone got the idea to turn the bike upside down and shake it out. We laid a tarp on the ground four guys picked the bike up and sun it upside down and shook and the dowel came out.
We buttoned the bike back up and laughed about it. Of course the rider crashed on the warmup lap so all of our work was for naught.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:16 AM   #74240
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Pompano Beach, FL
Oddometer: 4,464
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
Mambo Dave,

Only 3 things you messed with that could do that:
Kill switch
Clutch safety switch (remove if you haven't already)
Starter switch

I've been foiled by the kill switch more than once, always the first thing I check now!

Clutch safety switch will leave you stranded at an inopportune time if it fails, better to bypass it now and not have to worry about it. Just means you have to pay more attention when starting the bike, lord knows I've nearly bumped mine off the sidestand a few times when I didn't put it in neutral first!

Starter switch is a known weak link on these bikes. Mine failed miserably and was replaced with a Highway Dirt Bikes switch assembly that is much more robust and half the price of OEM.

I would start with those three. There's not really anything that would be affected in the wiring harness while changing bars unless you were really tugging on the wires and cables. If something came unplugged, it would probably be behind the headlight shroud.

Tim
Finally got around to playing with it just now. The first place I went for was connecting the clutch wires together and omitting the clutch switch.

Tried it - it started!

Thanks Tim, and thanks guys!

My guess is that I may have tugged on the wires that go in to the clutch switch and screwed them up? I don't know, and I don't care. It's bypassed now.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:21 AM   #74241
jessepitt
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Location: Redmond Oregon
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How about your kick stand switch? Is it still on the bike? They are easy to remove and have caused many people problems. Even if its working fine its still a PITA so I recommend ditching it. I'm glad the clutch switch turned out to fix your issue.
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:11 AM   #74242
SkunkWizard
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: "the Planet"
Oddometer: 642
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry94025 View Post
Did you make that carbon fiber clutch cover reinforcement? Is there also one on the stator cover?

Harry
yes,yes & it's only one ply C/F bonded with multi-plies of Kevlar
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:12 AM   #74243
SkunkWizard
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: "the Planet"
Oddometer: 642
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Just how did you make the traction spikes/dimples on the bar stock?
Grinder/skills
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:15 AM   #74244
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Pompano Beach, FL
Oddometer: 4,464
Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
How about your kick stand switch? Is it still on the bike? They are easy to remove and have caused many people problems. Even if its working fine its still a PITA so I recommend ditching it. I'm glad the clutch switch turned out to fix your issue.
It is. The kickstand switch became an issue with my Kawasaki Vulcan (when I had it) as well. Instead of cleaning it, I simply bent down while on the bike and pulled at the spring-loaded sensor to wiggled/pulled it out to get it to start.

Is the bypass for the kickstand switch as easy?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkWizard View Post
Grinder/skills
That's all I have, so I should be good.

If I were to cut the pegs down for more room, all I have is a cutting wheel for my grinder - so that's how I'd do it as well.
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:25 AM   #74245
TUCKERS
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
Oddometer: 11,367
Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
So I got my order in from Procycle to do a bunch of maintenance on my bike now that it's pretty much my only form of transport. I got their tune up kit, drive train kit, and TM40 carb. The drive chain was due up for replacement, so I held off until this weekend to do it all. Chain, drive rubbers, roller, and rear sprocket went on without a problem. However, I noticed as I was installing everything that the kit only comes with the new bolts and nuts for the rear (totally my mistake, the picture on their website only shows the rears as well). Long story short, I reused the 2001 era front sprocket bolts and one of the bastards sheared off when I tightened it down. So remember kids, over tightening bolts is not your friend. Time to order some new parts

On the plus side, this does give me a chance to focus on getting that carb installed tomorrow.
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:35 AM   #74246
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
I'ma dummie n00bie?
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:42 AM   #74247
speedmaster
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Oddometer: 571
This may be the wrong place to ask what seems like a strange question, but does anyone know if a Shinko 705 120/90-17 will fit on a DR650 sporting 17’s (stock forks & boots)?

Just to clarify, what I am concerned about is fitting between the forks with enough clearance to not rub on anything.

Thanks

speedmaster screwed with this post 03-03-2013 at 10:52 AM
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:59 AM   #74248
Adv Grifter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
I'm not sure why ... but seems MOST of the experienced DR guys here are using the stock cover plate and three bolts. The circlip method was popular for a while ... but reading here I see quite a few have gone BACK to the plate and bolts.

The thing with the plate and bolts is ... DO NOT over tighten those bolts, but DO use loc-tite on them. Seems to work OK. Pro Cycle make a special plate that works with 14T sprocket. (see pic below) On the stock plate you have to grind a bit off round the outer edge to use smaller 14T sprocket.

And what does Procycle use on his own bikes?
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:16 AM   #74249
TRAVELGUY
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 571
I changed back to the three bolt plate after using the clip for awhile. the reason was I found it easier, quicker and no need to carry a snap ring tool with me when traveling. I always carry a 10 mm wrench in my tool kit so why add more tool weight. I change the front spocket often and just have found the bolt on easier to deal with in the long run.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I'm not sure why ... but seems MOST of the experienced DR guys here are using the stock cover plate and three bolts. The circlip method was popular for a while ... but reading here I see quite a few have gone BACK to the plate and bolts.

The thing with the plate and bolts is ... DO NOT over tighten those bolts, but DO use loc-tite on them. Seems to work OK. Pro Cycle make a special plate that works with 14T sprocket. (see pic below) On the stock plate you have to grind a bit off round the outer edge to use smaller 14T sprocket.

And what does Procycle use on his own bikes?
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:16 AM   #74250
shu
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 978
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
I used a circlip for about 25,000 miles with no problems what-so-ever. But I went back to using the 3 little bolts anyway.

It's just as easy to change the sprocket with the bolts, and it limits the side play a bit more. I don't really know how that sprocket moves when the bike is operating but I assume that the Suzuki designers have a pretty good idea of what it's doing and specified the set-up accordingly.

It's interesting that many bikes have a huge, massively torqued nut with a lock washer for that front sprocket.


.........shu
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