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Old 03-03-2013, 11:15 AM   #74236
Mambo Dave
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Location: 11 ft. AMSL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
How about your kick stand switch? Is it still on the bike? They are easy to remove and have caused many people problems. Even if its working fine its still a PITA so I recommend ditching it. I'm glad the clutch switch turned out to fix your issue.
It is. The kickstand switch became an issue with my Kawasaki Vulcan (when I had it) as well. Instead of cleaning it, I simply bent down while on the bike and pulled at the spring-loaded sensor to wiggled/pulled it out to get it to start.

Is the bypass for the kickstand switch as easy?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkWizard View Post
Grinder/skills
That's all I have, so I should be good.

If I were to cut the pegs down for more room, all I have is a cutting wheel for my grinder - so that's how I'd do it as well.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:25 AM   #74237
TUCKERS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
So I got my order in from Procycle to do a bunch of maintenance on my bike now that it's pretty much my only form of transport. I got their tune up kit, drive train kit, and TM40 carb. The drive chain was due up for replacement, so I held off until this weekend to do it all. Chain, drive rubbers, roller, and rear sprocket went on without a problem. However, I noticed as I was installing everything that the kit only comes with the new bolts and nuts for the rear (totally my mistake, the picture on their website only shows the rears as well). Long story short, I reused the 2001 era front sprocket bolts and one of the bastards sheared off when I tightened it down. So remember kids, over tightening bolts is not your friend. Time to order some new parts

On the plus side, this does give me a chance to focus on getting that carb installed tomorrow.
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:35 AM   #74238
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:42 AM   #74239
speedmaster
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This may be the wrong place to ask what seems like a strange question, but does anyone know if a Shinko 705 120/90-17 will fit on a DR650 sporting 17’s (stock forks & boots)?

Just to clarify, what I am concerned about is fitting between the forks with enough clearance to not rub on anything.

Thanks

speedmaster screwed with this post 03-03-2013 at 11:52 AM
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:59 AM   #74240
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
I'm not sure why ... but seems MOST of the experienced DR guys here are using the stock cover plate and three bolts. The circlip method was popular for a while ... but reading here I see quite a few have gone BACK to the plate and bolts.

The thing with the plate and bolts is ... DO NOT over tighten those bolts, but DO use loc-tite on them. Seems to work OK. Pro Cycle make a special plate that works with 14T sprocket. (see pic below) On the stock plate you have to grind a bit off round the outer edge to use smaller 14T sprocket.

And what does Procycle use on his own bikes?
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:16 PM   #74241
TRAVELGUY
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I changed back to the three bolt plate after using the clip for awhile. the reason was I found it easier, quicker and no need to carry a snap ring tool with me when traveling. I always carry a 10 mm wrench in my tool kit so why add more tool weight. I change the front spocket often and just have found the bolt on easier to deal with in the long run.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I'm not sure why ... but seems MOST of the experienced DR guys here are using the stock cover plate and three bolts. The circlip method was popular for a while ... but reading here I see quite a few have gone BACK to the plate and bolts.

The thing with the plate and bolts is ... DO NOT over tighten those bolts, but DO use loc-tite on them. Seems to work OK. Pro Cycle make a special plate that works with 14T sprocket. (see pic below) On the stock plate you have to grind a bit off round the outer edge to use smaller 14T sprocket.

And what does Procycle use on his own bikes?
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:16 PM   #74242
shu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
I used a circlip for about 25,000 miles with no problems what-so-ever. But I went back to using the 3 little bolts anyway.

It's just as easy to change the sprocket with the bolts, and it limits the side play a bit more. I don't really know how that sprocket moves when the bike is operating but I assume that the Suzuki designers have a pretty good idea of what it's doing and specified the set-up accordingly.

It's interesting that many bikes have a huge, massively torqued nut with a lock washer for that front sprocket.


.........shu
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:15 PM   #74243
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
ProCycle does not endorse using a clip to retain the front sprocket on a DR650.
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:52 PM   #74244
SingleTrackJeff
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Location: Pensacola, Fl.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Some would argue that the TM is "more" adjustable, or more easily adjusted. On the FCR, all openings besides idle and WOT are controlled by needle shape and clip position. This may sound like an advantage, until you realize that for all intents an purposes, the needle must simultaneously have the correct diameters at heights that control 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 openings (if the "dots are connected" then the areas between these openings should be acceptably close). On the other hand, the TM needle only has to have the correct diameters at heights that control 1/2 and 3/4 openings, as 1/16 and 1/8 openings can be controlled by the pilot jet size and 1/4 opening can be controlled by the needle jet size.

Some are annoyed by the heavier throttle pull of the TM.

Note that with slide carbs in general you are stuck, for a given throttle position, with whatever shape and slope of fuel delivery curve you have, i.e. if you have some lean areas at some rpm and some rich areas at some other rpm, that cannot reasonably be fixed. All that can be done is to move the entire curve up and down, i.e. add or subtract fuel for the entire throttle position. If you add fuel, you will fix the lean areas, while making the richer areas worse. If you subtract fuel, you will fix the rich areas while making the lean areas worse.

The compression and ignition timing on a DR are probably such that the improved cylinder filling afforded by a slide carb will nothing but beneficial, but I'd still want to have a look at NOX or a cylinder pressure trace to be sure. Perhaps a move to premium would be in order.

Regards,

Derek
Derek, Thanks for the info. I think I may stay with the OEM carb for now and try a different jet kit, I have the Dyno Stage 2 kit and have tried it all the way from OEM air box to full open with the backfire screen out. It will just not run consistently, biggest prob is a stumble off closed throttle. I am still running OEM exhaust. I am running stock carb with slightly open air box top and a mm or so raised needle.
Just not sure which jet kit to try, for a sea level tune.
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:57 PM   #74245
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleTrackJeff View Post
Derek, Thanks for the info. I think I may stay with the OEM carb for now and try a different jet kit, I have the Dyno Stage 2 kit and have tried it all the way from OEM air box to full open with the backfire screen out. It will just not run consistently, biggest prob is a stumble off closed throttle. I am still running OEM exhaust. I am running stock carb with slightly open air box top and a mm or so raised needle.
Just not sure which jet kit to try, for a sea level tune.
There is no jet kit that I would recommend for the DR650.

What is the exact throttle position the stumble occurs during?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:00 PM   #74246
SingleTrackJeff
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I am going to say 1/8- 1/4 Just a guess
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:29 PM   #74247
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleTrackJeff View Post
I am going to say 1/8- 1/4 Just a guess
It will not be possible to determine which circuit is responsible without precisely knowing the throttle position. In order to facilitate this, put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks. If you do, I'm not responsible!

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:35 PM   #74248
BenYork
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Location: Tahoe/ Humboldt
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California Emissions Stuff

Hello.

I just installed an Acerbis tank on my CA model DR 650. The hose that connected to the right side of the tank and ran over to the charcoal canister is now just sitting there. Bike runs as it always has. My question: Is the emissions stuff doing anything now that I have the new tank? Should I just strip it all off? I would rather not slaughter the atmosphere, given the choice.

Thanks,

BEN
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:00 PM   #74249
Tex76
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Hey guys, just put in new sparks plugs. They are the ngk cr10eix, which I thought were a direct replacement but the head on this spark plug won't mate with the spark plug wires. Are these the wrong plugs?
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:02 PM   #74250
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
Hey guys, just put in new sparks plugs. They are the ngk cr10eix, which I thought were a direct replacement but the head on this spark plug won't mate with the spark plug wires. Are these the wrong plugs?

Unscrew that nipple on the end of the plug.
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