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Old 03-03-2013, 12:15 PM   #74251
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
ProCycle does not endorse using a clip to retain the front sprocket on a DR650.
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:52 PM   #74252
SingleTrackJeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Some would argue that the TM is "more" adjustable, or more easily adjusted. On the FCR, all openings besides idle and WOT are controlled by needle shape and clip position. This may sound like an advantage, until you realize that for all intents an purposes, the needle must simultaneously have the correct diameters at heights that control 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 openings (if the "dots are connected" then the areas between these openings should be acceptably close). On the other hand, the TM needle only has to have the correct diameters at heights that control 1/2 and 3/4 openings, as 1/16 and 1/8 openings can be controlled by the pilot jet size and 1/4 opening can be controlled by the needle jet size.

Some are annoyed by the heavier throttle pull of the TM.

Note that with slide carbs in general you are stuck, for a given throttle position, with whatever shape and slope of fuel delivery curve you have, i.e. if you have some lean areas at some rpm and some rich areas at some other rpm, that cannot reasonably be fixed. All that can be done is to move the entire curve up and down, i.e. add or subtract fuel for the entire throttle position. If you add fuel, you will fix the lean areas, while making the richer areas worse. If you subtract fuel, you will fix the rich areas while making the lean areas worse.

The compression and ignition timing on a DR are probably such that the improved cylinder filling afforded by a slide carb will nothing but beneficial, but I'd still want to have a look at NOX or a cylinder pressure trace to be sure. Perhaps a move to premium would be in order.

Regards,

Derek
Derek, Thanks for the info. I think I may stay with the OEM carb for now and try a different jet kit, I have the Dyno Stage 2 kit and have tried it all the way from OEM air box to full open with the backfire screen out. It will just not run consistently, biggest prob is a stumble off closed throttle. I am still running OEM exhaust. I am running stock carb with slightly open air box top and a mm or so raised needle.
Just not sure which jet kit to try, for a sea level tune.
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:57 PM   #74253
motolab
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Originally Posted by SingleTrackJeff View Post
Derek, Thanks for the info. I think I may stay with the OEM carb for now and try a different jet kit, I have the Dyno Stage 2 kit and have tried it all the way from OEM air box to full open with the backfire screen out. It will just not run consistently, biggest prob is a stumble off closed throttle. I am still running OEM exhaust. I am running stock carb with slightly open air box top and a mm or so raised needle.
Just not sure which jet kit to try, for a sea level tune.
There is no jet kit that I would recommend for the DR650.

What is the exact throttle position the stumble occurs during?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:00 PM   #74254
SingleTrackJeff
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I am going to say 1/8- 1/4 Just a guess
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:29 PM   #74255
motolab
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Originally Posted by SingleTrackJeff View Post
I am going to say 1/8- 1/4 Just a guess
It will not be possible to determine which circuit is responsible without precisely knowing the throttle position. In order to facilitate this, put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks. If you do, I'm not responsible!

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Old 03-03-2013, 01:35 PM   #74256
BenYork
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California Emissions Stuff

Hello.

I just installed an Acerbis tank on my CA model DR 650. The hose that connected to the right side of the tank and ran over to the charcoal canister is now just sitting there. Bike runs as it always has. My question: Is the emissions stuff doing anything now that I have the new tank? Should I just strip it all off? I would rather not slaughter the atmosphere, given the choice.

Thanks,

BEN
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:00 PM   #74257
Tex76
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Hey guys, just put in new sparks plugs. They are the ngk cr10eix, which I thought were a direct replacement but the head on this spark plug won't mate with the spark plug wires. Are these the wrong plugs?
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:02 PM   #74258
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
Hey guys, just put in new sparks plugs. They are the ngk cr10eix, which I thought were a direct replacement but the head on this spark plug won't mate with the spark plug wires. Are these the wrong plugs?

Unscrew that nipple on the end of the plug.
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:14 PM   #74259
victor441
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[QUOTE=speedmaster;20855173]This may be the wrong place to ask what seems like a strange question, but does anyone know if a Shinko 705 120/90-17 will fit on a DR650 sporting 17’s (stock forks & boots)?


It should, someone over at drriders.com is running one....also many (including me) are running 120/70-17 on supermotos, I have about 5mm clearance each side
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:12 PM   #74260
Tex76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil' Steve View Post
Unscrew that nipple on the end of the plug.
Duh!! Thanks.
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:30 PM   #74261
Seth650
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I have a set of Kenda K270's using 3.25" front and 5.10" rear, to install in the spring. The dr's wheels and fenders are stock, and regular seat height. Any issues to expect? I believe the standard size for the K270 is 3.00" front and 4.60" rear. Sorry if this is a


Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
According to the tire fitment chart that I have the widest tire recommended for a 1.85 (Stock front rim width) is a 90, and for the 2.50 rear, a 130. Any larger and the tire design profile is distorted.

If you want wider than that it's time to get new wider rims. The supermoto style 17's with a 3.50 front and 4.25 rear rim width usually run a 120 f and 150 r.

I have the 'adventure' setup on my bike with a 110/19 f and 150/17 r.
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:05 PM   #74262
805gregg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
Jeff at Procycle recommends useing the retainer and bolts, read DRRiders
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:06 PM   #74263
805gregg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenYork View Post
Hello.

I just installed an Acerbis tank on my CA model DR 650. The hose that connected to the right side of the tank and ran over to the charcoal canister is now just sitting there. Bike runs as it always has. My question: Is the emissions stuff doing anything now that I have the new tank? Should I just strip it all off? I would rather not slaughter the atmosphere, given the choice.

Thanks,

BEN
You should have gotten rid of it the day you brought the bike home
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:17 PM   #74264
BenYork
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Originally Posted by 805gregg View Post
You should have gotten rid of it the day you brought the bike home
Sort of what I thought. Never thought I would be told this by someone living in Ojai. I went to Oak Grove School. Damn Hippies.
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:33 PM   #74265
YnotJP?
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I am also a three bolt guy.

I am speaking with just here-say now, because I am in the Philippines and my DR-650 is in Seattle with my son. I had him redo the carb with the Factory Pro Jet Kit as the air box etc. is still stock, and has seemed to run with little or no problems. Now, here is the "here-say" part, my son says the Factroy Pro Jet Kit is an improvement.

I will say that shortly after I got my 2009 DR 650, I read Stu's Ride Report of his trip to Euope, Central Asia, Russia. Since he and I seem to ride about the same, I followed his thinking regarding the carb, exhaust etc. and it has worked well for me. On a trip from Seattle to San Diego in February 2011, I had a moving average of 52 MPH, and gas mileage of 62 MPG. That is the best mileage I have ever gotten, but, have never gotten less the 50 MPG. I pretty much record every tank.

I did have a few cars with SU carbs, so maybe my expectations are not as high as someother's.
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