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Old 03-03-2013, 03:14 PM   #74251
victor441
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
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[QUOTE=speedmaster;20855173]This may be the wrong place to ask what seems like a strange question, but does anyone know if a Shinko 705 120/90-17 will fit on a DR650 sporting 17s (stock forks & boots)?


It should, someone over at drriders.com is running one....also many (including me) are running 120/70-17 on supermotos, I have about 5mm clearance each side
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:12 PM   #74252
Tex76
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Location: Plano, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil' Steve View Post
Unscrew that nipple on the end of the plug.
Duh!! Thanks.
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:30 PM   #74253
Seth650
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: N. E. Pa.
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I have a set of Kenda K270's using 3.25" front and 5.10" rear, to install in the spring. The dr's wheels and fenders are stock, and regular seat height. Any issues to expect? I believe the standard size for the K270 is 3.00" front and 4.60" rear. Sorry if this is a


Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
According to the tire fitment chart that I have the widest tire recommended for a 1.85 (Stock front rim width) is a 90, and for the 2.50 rear, a 130. Any larger and the tire design profile is distorted.

If you want wider than that it's time to get new wider rims. The supermoto style 17's with a 3.50 front and 4.25 rear rim width usually run a 120 f and 150 r.

I have the 'adventure' setup on my bike with a 110/19 f and 150/17 r.
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:05 PM   #74254
805gregg
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Location: Ojai, Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
Jeff at Procycle recommends useing the retainer and bolts, read DRRiders
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:06 PM   #74255
805gregg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenYork View Post
Hello.

I just installed an Acerbis tank on my CA model DR 650. The hose that connected to the right side of the tank and ran over to the charcoal canister is now just sitting there. Bike runs as it always has. My question: Is the emissions stuff doing anything now that I have the new tank? Should I just strip it all off? I would rather not slaughter the atmosphere, given the choice.

Thanks,

BEN
You should have gotten rid of it the day you brought the bike home
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:17 PM   #74256
BenYork
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 805gregg View Post
You should have gotten rid of it the day you brought the bike home
Sort of what I thought. Never thought I would be told this by someone living in Ojai. I went to Oak Grove School. Damn Hippies.
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:33 PM   #74257
YnotJP?
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Philippines and Seattle
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I am also a three bolt guy.

I am speaking with just here-say now, because I am in the Philippines and my DR-650 is in Seattle with my son. I had him redo the carb with the Factory Pro Jet Kit as the air box etc. is still stock, and has seemed to run with little or no problems. Now, here is the "here-say" part, my son says the Factroy Pro Jet Kit is an improvement.

I will say that shortly after I got my 2009 DR 650, I read Stu's Ride Report of his trip to Euope, Central Asia, Russia. Since he and I seem to ride about the same, I followed his thinking regarding the carb, exhaust etc. and it has worked well for me. On a trip from Seattle to San Diego in February 2011, I had a moving average of 52 MPH, and gas mileage of 62 MPG. That is the best mileage I have ever gotten, but, have never gotten less the 50 MPG. I pretty much record every tank.

I did have a few cars with SU carbs, so maybe my expectations are not as high as someother's.
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:58 PM   #74258
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YnotJP? View Post
I am speaking with just here-say now, because I am in the Philippines and my DR-650 is in Seattle with my son. I had him redo the carb with the Factory Pro Jet Kit as the air box etc. is still stock, and has seemed to run with little or no problems. Now, here is the "here-say" part, my son says the Factroy Pro Jet Kit is an improvement.

I will say that shortly after I got my 2009 DR 650, I read Stu's Ride Report of his trip to Euope, Central Asia, Russia. Since he and I seem to ride about the same, I followed his thinking regarding the carb, exhaust etc. and it has worked well for me. On a trip from Seattle to San Diego in February 2011, I had a moving average of 52 MPH, and gas mileage of 62 MPG. That is the best mileage I have ever gotten, but, have never gotten less the 50 MPG. I pretty much record every tank.
The shape of the needle contained in the Factory Pro kit should be pretty good. The reason I don't recommend it is because it's made out of stainless steel and will accelerate emulsion tube wear.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:24 PM   #74259
neo1piv014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I'ma dummie n00bie?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
Time out...this sprocket did come with a black clip looking thing. Where does it go, is there any particular way I need to put it on, and who wants to come out here and smack me for being an idiot?

On the bright side, however, the loaner bike I borrowed from my dad is a BMW K1200S, so the commute to work tomorrow might be cut in half
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:28 PM   #74260
gjcarving
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Location: Santa Fe, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I'm not sure why ... but seems MOST of the experienced DR guys here are using the stock cover plate and three bolts. The circlip method was popular for a while ... but reading here I see quite a few have gone BACK to the plate and bolts.

The thing with the plate and bolts is ... DO NOT over tighten those bolts, but DO use loc-tite on them. Seems to work OK. Pro Cycle make a special plate that works with 14T sprocket. (see pic below) On the stock plate you have to grind a bit off round the outer edge to use smaller 14T sprocket.

And what does Procycle use on his own bikes?
Is it me, or is that sprocket on backwards? If not, mine is... I was always sure that it was flat side out.

gjcarving screwed with this post 03-03-2013 at 07:34 PM
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:32 PM   #74261
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Time out...
But I'm not tired.

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
this sprocket did come with a black clip looking thing.
Does it look like this?


Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
Where does it go, is there any particular way I need to put it on,
It goes in the groove the stock retainer is in. I use channel lock type pliers, try to pull it straight in, it will try to flop as you apply pressure. Don't freak out, the sprocket is free to slide in and out on the spline, the chain locates it close enough (and is why I don't like them). You'll be good until you can get new bolts, some guys use them 100% of the time, like TUCKER.

OCD alert: To me, there is an inside and an outside. These are stamped out of a steel plate, if you look at the pic, the edges are slightly rounded. On the back, the edges will be much sharper. In this application any force applied to the clip will be from the sprocket side. So..........I put the clip on 'sharp' edge away from the bike, it's marginally less likely to be dislodged toward the sharp edge.

Regular washers are also stamped. So if I'm using them against plastic, like a number plate, I put the rounded edge toward the plastic, usually against aluminum too.

Ok, back to work:

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
and who wants to come out here and smack me for being an idiot?


Nothing wrong with learning. I can't teach my retirement buddy that the sun comes up in the east.

Quote:
Originally Posted by neo1piv014 View Post
On the bright side, however, the loaner bike I borrowed from my dad is a BMW K1200S, so the commute to work tomorrow might be cut in half
My commute would include south Texas.

Edit:
Here's another example of round edge toward the plastic. I used the washer for more surface area against the plastic and didn't want the washer cutting a stress crack in the plastic. (the washer under the hex bolt socket head cap screw on the carb cover)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 03-05-2013 at 10:53 AM
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:40 PM   #74262
jessepitt
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Redmond Oregon
Oddometer: 993
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
It is. The kickstand switch became an issue with my Kawasaki Vulcan (when I had it) as well. Instead of cleaning it, I simply bent down while on the bike and pulled at the spring-loaded sensor to wiggled/pulled it out to get it to start.

Is the bypass for the kickstand switch as easy?

Yep, almost as easy as the clutch switch. Once again chase the wires from the switch to where they reach a plug up under the seat. Cut the wires on the SWITCH side of the plug leaving a few inches of wire. Connect the wires together, using your preferred technique, (I soldered and shrink tubed them). Throw away the switch and your done.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:23 PM   #74263
neo1piv014
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It looks exactly like the picture you got there. I just figured that was a part for different bikes or something. If it'll hold everything in place until my next PC gets here this week, then I'll go that route. I remember the front sprocket had one side that was raised a bit, and on the stock one, that side was facing towards the bike. Since the new sprocket has that same raised edge, I just put it on facing the same way as the stock one.

I can't wait to get my bike fired up again. I went ahead and put the TM40 on there while she was out of commission. Of course, during that process I noticed that both the carb boot clamps were pretty stripped and a little rusty, so a quick stop by the local auto parts store landed me a few generic hose clamps that use a size 8 socket head instead of a phillips. One of these days, I'm going to replace every single phillips head screw in my life with allen head bolts or socket bolts, but until then, I'll deal with the stripped screws.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
But I'm not tired.

Does it look like this?



It goes in the groove the stock retainer is in. I use channel lock type pliers, try to pull it straight in, it will try to flop as you apply pressure. Don't freak out, the sprocket is free to slide in and out on the spline, the chain locates it close enough (and is why I don't like them). You'll be good until you can get new bolts, some guys use them 100% of the time, like TUCKER.

OCD alert: To me, there is an inside and an outside. These are stamped out of a steel plate, if you look at the pic, the edges are slightly rounded. On the back, the edges will be much sharper. In this application any force applied to the clip will be from the sprocket side. So..........I put the clip on 'sharp' edge away from the bike, it's marginally less likely to be dislodged toward the sharp edge.

Regular washers are also stamped. So if I'm using them against plastic, like a number plate, I put the rounded edge toward the plastic, usually against aluminum too.

Ok, back to work:



Nothing wrong with learning. I can't teach my retirement buddy that the sun comes up in the east.

My commute would include south Texas.

Edit:
Here's another example of round edge toward the plastic. I used the washer for more surface area against the plastic and didn't want the washer cutting a stress crack in the plastic. (the washer under the hex bolt on the carb cover)
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:48 PM   #74264
Falcon86
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Virginia Beach, VA/Slaty Fork, WV
Oddometer: 1,630
Any DR guru's with electrical advice?

I'm looking to buy a DR and came upon a good deal on Craigslist, bit seller said in the ad that the bike has an electrical problem. I emailed him and asked for details and this was the response.

"I had the bike looked at by a local shop and they diagnosed an original electrical issue as a post stator coil that had went bad. The part was replaced by the shop, and the bike began to run as it did before it went into the shop. However, down the line, the bike seemed to lose power but could restart if the bike cut out. I checked the battery and it seemes to have gone bad. So i'm unsure of the current electrical issue. It could be just the battery, but I have not bought a new one to find out. With a good mechanic and knowledge of electrical issues....coils, stators, wiring, and batteries. This may be a steal. At worst case senario the bike has very good parts. Mostly everything is OEM."

Any advice or ideas? Thank you!
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:03 PM   #74265
TUCKERS
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Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 805gregg View Post
Jeff at Procycle recommends useing the retainer and bolts, read DRRiders

Good info. Sheet, now I have to switch back to the plate and bolts.

Thanks for setting me straight on this.

Sorry for the mis-information, I was mis-informed myself and passed it on.

I JUST put a 16T and circlip on one of our DR's. I guess I'll put the plate and bolts back on!

Mea culp., Mea culpa. Mea culpa.
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