ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-03-2013, 11:16 AM   #74266
TRAVELGUY
Old Traveler
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Georgetown, In / Costa Rica
Oddometer: 524
I changed back to the three bolt plate after using the clip for awhile. the reason was I found it easier, quicker and no need to carry a snap ring tool with me when traveling. I always carry a 10 mm wrench in my tool kit so why add more tool weight. I change the front spocket often and just have found the bolt on easier to deal with in the long run.

TravelGuy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I'm not sure why ... but seems MOST of the experienced DR guys here are using the stock cover plate and three bolts. The circlip method was popular for a while ... but reading here I see quite a few have gone BACK to the plate and bolts.

The thing with the plate and bolts is ... DO NOT over tighten those bolts, but DO use loc-tite on them. Seems to work OK. Pro Cycle make a special plate that works with 14T sprocket. (see pic below) On the stock plate you have to grind a bit off round the outer edge to use smaller 14T sprocket.

And what does Procycle use on his own bikes?
__________________
TRAVELGUY
DL1000 '05 black
DL 650 '06 Red
DR650 '07
.
TRAVELGUY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 11:16 AM   #74267
shu
...
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
I used a circlip for about 25,000 miles with no problems what-so-ever. But I went back to using the 3 little bolts anyway.

It's just as easy to change the sprocket with the bolts, and it limits the side play a bit more. I don't really know how that sprocket moves when the bike is operating but I assume that the Suzuki designers have a pretty good idea of what it's doing and specified the set-up accordingly.

It's interesting that many bikes have a huge, massively torqued nut with a lock washer for that front sprocket.


.........shu
shu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 12:15 PM   #74268
procycle
Beastly Adventurer
 
procycle's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Center of the DR650 universe
Oddometer: 1,949
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
ProCycle does not endorse using a clip to retain the front sprocket on a DR650.
__________________
Clarke's second law of Egodynamics: "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." - Jasper Fforde
www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
TurboDiesel Corvette - go to the end to start at the beginning
procycle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 12:52 PM   #74269
SingleTrackJeff
Lurker and Hangaround
 
SingleTrackJeff's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Pensacola, Fl.
Oddometer: 537
Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Some would argue that the TM is "more" adjustable, or more easily adjusted. On the FCR, all openings besides idle and WOT are controlled by needle shape and clip position. This may sound like an advantage, until you realize that for all intents an purposes, the needle must simultaneously have the correct diameters at heights that control 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 openings (if the "dots are connected" then the areas between these openings should be acceptably close). On the other hand, the TM needle only has to have the correct diameters at heights that control 1/2 and 3/4 openings, as 1/16 and 1/8 openings can be controlled by the pilot jet size and 1/4 opening can be controlled by the needle jet size.

Some are annoyed by the heavier throttle pull of the TM.

Note that with slide carbs in general you are stuck, for a given throttle position, with whatever shape and slope of fuel delivery curve you have, i.e. if you have some lean areas at some rpm and some rich areas at some other rpm, that cannot reasonably be fixed. All that can be done is to move the entire curve up and down, i.e. add or subtract fuel for the entire throttle position. If you add fuel, you will fix the lean areas, while making the richer areas worse. If you subtract fuel, you will fix the rich areas while making the lean areas worse.

The compression and ignition timing on a DR are probably such that the improved cylinder filling afforded by a slide carb will nothing but beneficial, but I'd still want to have a look at NOX or a cylinder pressure trace to be sure. Perhaps a move to premium would be in order.

Regards,

Derek
Derek, Thanks for the info. I think I may stay with the OEM carb for now and try a different jet kit, I have the Dyno Stage 2 kit and have tried it all the way from OEM air box to full open with the backfire screen out. It will just not run consistently, biggest prob is a stumble off closed throttle. I am still running OEM exhaust. I am running stock carb with slightly open air box top and a mm or so raised needle.
Just not sure which jet kit to try, for a sea level tune.
SingleTrackJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 12:57 PM   #74270
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 1,948
Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleTrackJeff View Post
Derek, Thanks for the info. I think I may stay with the OEM carb for now and try a different jet kit, I have the Dyno Stage 2 kit and have tried it all the way from OEM air box to full open with the backfire screen out. It will just not run consistently, biggest prob is a stumble off closed throttle. I am still running OEM exhaust. I am running stock carb with slightly open air box top and a mm or so raised needle.
Just not sure which jet kit to try, for a sea level tune.
There is no jet kit that I would recommend for the DR650.

What is the exact throttle position the stumble occurs during?

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 01:00 PM   #74271
SingleTrackJeff
Lurker and Hangaround
 
SingleTrackJeff's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Pensacola, Fl.
Oddometer: 537
I am going to say 1/8- 1/4 Just a guess
SingleTrackJeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 01:29 PM   #74272
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 1,948
Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleTrackJeff View Post
I am going to say 1/8- 1/4 Just a guess
It will not be possible to determine which circuit is responsible without precisely knowing the throttle position. In order to facilitate this, put some tape on the throttle housing and the edge of the grip. Mark zero throttle with a sharpie. This is best done with the engine idling, so you can tell when the slack in the cable has just been taken up. Turn off the engine and mark wide open. Now take a tape measure (metric works best in my opinion) and measure the length of the arc. Put a mark at the mid point. Duplicate this procedure to mark the mid-point between here and zero throttle opening to get 1/4 open. Repeat for 1/8 and 1/16 openings. Don't have an accident trying to look at the marks. If you do, I'm not responsible!

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 01:35 PM   #74273
BenYork
Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Tahoe/ Humboldt
Oddometer: 60
California Emissions Stuff

Hello.

I just installed an Acerbis tank on my CA model DR 650. The hose that connected to the right side of the tank and ran over to the charcoal canister is now just sitting there. Bike runs as it always has. My question: Is the emissions stuff doing anything now that I have the new tank? Should I just strip it all off? I would rather not slaughter the atmosphere, given the choice.

Thanks,

BEN
BenYork is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 03:00 PM   #74274
Tex76
Motersykle Advntyers
 
Tex76's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Plano, Texas
Oddometer: 823
Hey guys, just put in new sparks plugs. They are the ngk cr10eix, which I thought were a direct replacement but the head on this spark plug won't mate with the spark plug wires. Are these the wrong plugs?
__________________
"We act as though comfort and luxury are the chief requirements of life, when all that we need to make us happy is something to be enthusiastic about."
2007 BMW R1200 GSA, 2009 DL1000, 2005 DR650
30:Unemployed and Homeless (2 months and 10,000 miles)
The Lost Texan, Wanders East
Tex76 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 03:02 PM   #74275
Lil' Steve
PussyWagon™ Chauffer
 
Lil' Steve's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Da Bronx, NYC
Oddometer: 3,787
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
Hey guys, just put in new sparks plugs. They are the ngk cr10eix, which I thought were a direct replacement but the head on this spark plug won't mate with the spark plug wires. Are these the wrong plugs?

Unscrew that nipple on the end of the plug.
__________________
Steve
07 KLX250S w/300 kit, 05 DR650SE, 04 XT225
99 VFR800 w/870 kit, 96 GPz1100
Lil' Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 03:14 PM   #74276
victor441
Studly Adventurer
 
victor441's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Oddometer: 733
[QUOTE=speedmaster;20855173]This may be the wrong place to ask what seems like a strange question, but does anyone know if a Shinko 705 120/90-17 will fit on a DR650 sporting 17’s (stock forks & boots)?


It should, someone over at drriders.com is running one....also many (including me) are running 120/70-17 on supermotos, I have about 5mm clearance each side
victor441 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 04:12 PM   #74277
Tex76
Motersykle Advntyers
 
Tex76's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Plano, Texas
Oddometer: 823
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil' Steve View Post
Unscrew that nipple on the end of the plug.
Duh!! Thanks.
__________________
"We act as though comfort and luxury are the chief requirements of life, when all that we need to make us happy is something to be enthusiastic about."
2007 BMW R1200 GSA, 2009 DL1000, 2005 DR650
30:Unemployed and Homeless (2 months and 10,000 miles)
The Lost Texan, Wanders East
Tex76 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 04:30 PM   #74278
Seth650
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Seth650's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: N. E. Pa.
Oddometer: 339
I have a set of Kenda K270's using 3.25" front and 5.10" rear, to install in the spring. The dr's wheels and fenders are stock, and regular seat height. Any issues to expect? I believe the standard size for the K270 is 3.00" front and 4.60" rear. Sorry if this is a


Quote:
Originally Posted by maynard911 View Post
According to the tire fitment chart that I have the widest tire recommended for a 1.85 (Stock front rim width) is a 90, and for the 2.50 rear, a 130. Any larger and the tire design profile is distorted.

If you want wider than that it's time to get new wider rims. The supermoto style 17's with a 3.50 front and 4.25 rear rim width usually run a 120 f and 150 r.

I have the 'adventure' setup on my bike with a 110/19 f and 150/17 r.
__________________
2011 WR250R 2009 DR650
Seth650 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 05:05 PM   #74279
805gregg
Just Stroming along
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Ojai, Ca
Oddometer: 1,450
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUCKERS View Post
Remove the other two bolts and use a circlip to hold the front sprocket on. Pro-Cycle will provide one, I'm surprised it didn't come with the sprocket from them. All the smart kids use circlips, bolts are for noobs. Ask Pro-C they'll tell you.
Jeff at Procycle recommends useing the retainer and bolts, read DRRiders
805gregg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2013, 05:06 PM   #74280
805gregg
Just Stroming along
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Ojai, Ca
Oddometer: 1,450
Quote:
Originally Posted by BenYork View Post
Hello.

I just installed an Acerbis tank on my CA model DR 650. The hose that connected to the right side of the tank and ran over to the charcoal canister is now just sitting there. Bike runs as it always has. My question: Is the emissions stuff doing anything now that I have the new tank? Should I just strip it all off? I would rather not slaughter the atmosphere, given the choice.

Thanks,

BEN
You should have gotten rid of it the day you brought the bike home
805gregg is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 12:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014