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Old 03-04-2013, 12:25 PM   #74281
Rob.G
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Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Worst case scenario would be if you have to buy a new Stator. Around $400 and not many used ones come up. I doubt that is the issue. More likely the Carb needs a cleaning, filters cleaned.
The ProCycle 250 watt model is only $250, FYI.

Rob
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Old 03-04-2013, 12:45 PM   #74282
NWBoon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug s. View Post
the above is why i would not even bother making an offer. if you were happy w/stock, ok mebbe. even then, i would be hard pressed to buy a new dr650. i would much rather find a decent used one for $1500-$3k and use the extra money to make it mine.

doug s.
Thanks Rob G. and doug s.

I appreciate any and all input. I am trying to sell my F650GS in order to buy a DR650. I bought the F650GS to return to motorycling after a 14 year break but once I rode it on FS roads, I decided I wanted something lighter, more simple, and cheaper to repair/maintain. I recently rode a DR650 and really enjoyed it.
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:54 PM   #74283
dman
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Lower rear chain guide

Hi - my DR is missing the horizontal "block" part of the rear chain guide (vertical plates are OK). Only a complete assembly seems to be available, either OEM plastic parts or Moose or other aluminum aftermarket guides. Cost is about the same .... any recommendations? If you have gone aftermarket and have the stock part and screws that you want to get rid of PM me.

Thanks - dman
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:00 PM   #74284
Rob.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWBoon View Post
I am trying to sell my F650GS in order to buy a DR650. I bought the F650GS to return to motorycling after a 14 year break but once I rode it on FS roads, I decided I wanted something lighter, more simple, and cheaper to repair/maintain. I recently rode a DR650 and really enjoyed it.
The money and frustration you will save over electrical problems and broken swingarms will give that much more time and money to ride and enjoy! :)

Rob
(ducking)
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:33 PM   #74285
Falcon86
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: Virginia Beach, VA/Slaty Fork, WV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Check the VIN

Credit to Kientech Engineering

"
DR650 update on the 650 grenade issue. 1998 and early '99 were equipped with a solid idler gear that created a problem when the engine kicked back during shutdown, breaking out the gear bearing bosses. This also breaks out and destroys the left case half due to its ridged design. The case halves always come in matched pairs and cost in excess of $650.00 not to mention labor charges to change all internal parts into new cases. This should not be taken lightly. '96 and '97 had the torque limiter gear that is designed to slip due to a preloaded slip clutch arrangement. Well they went back to this design in mid '99 after vin # X2100561 so if your Vin # predates this you should consider installing this updated item shown above.

That might need to be figured into the equation.
Very true, I completely forgot about that issue.

Thanks alot!

Maybe I'm better of pony'ing up a bit more cash for a newer DR.
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:11 PM   #74286
Load Clear
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Re: High Altitude

Thanks guys, for the info.

Grifter - I've mountain biked and hiked quite a bit in the area. I love it.

With the knobbies - any of them you would want to ride a 400 mile asphalt round trip on? lot's of off-roading out my front door but I have a 180 mile ride "to town" & such. No way I would want to change tires every weekend. Plus, I'll want to be off-road in those places too


Just curious - why not the K&N filter?
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:16 PM   #74287
barko1
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Location: Las Cruces, NM or thereabouts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon86 View Post
Very true, I completely forgot about that issue.

Thanks alot!

Maybe I'm better of pony'ing up a bit more cash for a newer DR.
It is an easy fix, just pay Kientech for the parts. My 1998 had been sitting for a few years when I got it and needed the changeover. Been a fine runner since
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:25 PM   #74288
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogor View Post
I have had them fitted for about 5,000km. Huge improvement over stock and simple to put in. Haven't ridden any other options so sure if it is worth spending more for Race-Tech emulators or to have suspension set up professionally though.???

I'm happy with the Intiminators :)
Me too!
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:44 PM   #74289
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Trying to leave CT
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Never-ever do this with a DR650!!!!

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=867625
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:46 PM   #74290
shu
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Intiminators!

...........shu
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:49 PM   #74291
Tex76
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Location: Plano, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Never-ever do this with a DR650!!!!

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=867625
That bike looked like a pogo stick lol
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:55 PM   #74292
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
Thanks guys, for the info.

Grifter - I've mountain biked and hiked quite a bit in the area. I love it.

With the knobbies - any of them you would want to ride a 400 mile asphalt round trip on? lot's of off-roading out my front door but I have a 180 mile ride "to town" & such. No way I would want to change tires every weekend. Plus, I'll want to be off-road in those places too
Just curious - why not the K&N filter?
No true knobbie will last long on high speed pavement rides. You might get fair miles out of the Conti TKC80, but they are expensive. If you could get along with a good 50/50 rear tire like a Mefo, Mitas or Heidennau ... you'd be better off. The front is what count off road.

My solution would be to run a TKC 80 up front ... and one of the three German tires above out back. Should last fairly well ... maybe 6K to 8K for the rear tire? about same for front TKC.

If can keep you're highway speeds under 65 mph, should help. High speed eats off road tires.

K&N filter flow a lot of air ... but they don't filter dirt very well at all. Some use pre-filters put over their K&N, which helps. I learned all the bad things about K&N back in the 80's ... I'll never go back.
For the DR try the UNI filter, Twin-Air or No Toil filter. I use the Twin-Air.
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Old 03-04-2013, 04:12 PM   #74293
joefromsf
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: San Francisco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Never-ever do this with a DR650!!!!

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=867625
Hey, I was going to get around to posting that here. I am having some issues with it and am running out of ideas. I'll be back soon.
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Old 03-04-2013, 04:47 PM   #74294
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joefromsf View Post
Hey, I was going to get around to posting that here. I am having some issues with it and am running out of ideas. I'll be back soon.
Hi Joe

We'll be looking forward to your return.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Never-ever do this with a DR650!!!!

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=867625
YIPES

Southern Utah is my favorite riding.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-04-2013, 04:47 PM   #74295
Richguzzi
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Location: SF Bay Area
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by NWBoon View Post
A local motorcycle dealer has a brand new leftover 2011 DR650 for sale for $5900. Is there any sort of discount since it's 2 model years old but the same machine as this year's model? What would be a fair offer? I realize the dealer has to pay their folks and keep the lights on so I don't want to insult him. At the same time, I'd like to have some money left over to buy neat stuff from Procycle and Kientech.

Thanks in advance.

Is that OTD? I paid $6,400 w tax/license/fees in CA, for my brand new 2012 with 0% financing.
Just that alone made the purchase acceptable to SWMBO....
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Richguzzi screwed with this post 03-04-2013 at 04:55 PM
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