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Old 03-04-2013, 08:21 PM   #74296
ER70S-2
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YnotJP? View Post
Sorry Shu, my mistake, and I know better. Now, I think I will go back and read you Ride Report again.
Ynot: it wasn't you, SoPaRider goofed. Us 'ole' guys gotta stick together.

Hi Jeff

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoPaRider View Post
YnotJP? or anyone else provide a link to Stu's Ride Report?

Thanks

Jeff

'09 DR650SE
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:42 PM   #74297
NWBoon
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Originally Posted by Richguzzi View Post
Is that OTD? I paid $6,400 w tax/license/fees in CA, for my brand new 2012 with 0% financing.
Just that alone made the purchase acceptable to SWMBO....

No, that's the MSRP price. Tax, license and freight and set up will add several hundred more.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:11 PM   #74298
shu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YnotJP? View Post
Sorry Shu, my mistake, and I know better. Now, I think I will go back and read you Ride Report again.
No problem, YnotJP. Good to hear from you.

I'm planning on posting a pic or two here pretty soon. As soon as the ice melts out of the little canyon road I live on I'm heading south for Mexico on the DR.
Hopefully that will be Wed. morning.

Planning to be gone for a month.

...........shu
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:09 PM   #74299
eakins
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Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I agree. The german tires are more expensive but they will go an honest 6-8K miles.

........shu
they will but at $150 ea.
these days the $50 tire will run 3-4K.

when the german tires where priced at $100 it worked because 2x the price and 2x the mileage.

if you need 6-8K in a single tour run then yes they are priceless. if you are back home to change with in 3-4K and you don't mind the change then shinko 242, IRCs etc. make more sense.

one sleeper and little talked about $90 high-mileage tire is this one:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:12 PM   #74300
SoPaRider
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Talking

Sorry for the spelling error shu.

I'll be adding "The Rocking Chair Tour" to my stack of required reading.

This past June I became the third owner of a nearly new white '09 DR650SE with a mere 1,850 miles on it, it now has a whopping 2,408 miles on it and I'm in the early stages of prepping the bike for a tour of North America. Like you I'm in the process of reading this entire thread, as well as any other info I can find on the 650. I'm planning on doing a similar build to yours, with the less is best philosophy. Stand-by for a slew of questions.

"The Ride Is Never Long Enough!"

Jeff (SoPaRider)

'09 DR650SE K9
'07 DL650AK7 (wee-strom)
'96 DR350/441SET

48 states, D.C., 5 provinces and Bermuda down, the rest of the world to go!
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:20 PM   #74301
gofast1320
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Location: Middle Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
I get at least 6K miles out of a rear Kenda K761 on my DR, but they are not a knobby. I use a grooving iron to make them more aggressive for the dirt, yet they still work and last well on the pavement. A lot of my riding is 45-75MPH 2up commuting too, and I don't run them bald. Both of my old K761s could be thrown back on for more pavement miles. I'm guessing they have at least another 1K pavement miles left in each.

I'm currently trying a Kenda K270 rear semi-knob. It seems to hook up at least as well in sand/dirt/mud/grass as my grooved K761s, if not better, and several people have reported getting over 10K miles out of a K270 rear. Even new, I've had no pavement issues with this rear squirming, sliding out, or anything else spooky, but I did "scuff" it in on a sand road within the first few miles. After putting a few hundred miles on it this past weekend, I wouldn't hesitate to slab a K270 across the country. If it lasts as well as my K761s, I'll be happy with it...a cheap, long-lasting, predictable, grippy, dirt-capable, rear semi-knob.

Both of these rear Kendas typically run me about $60-$75, so they're not very expensive, and spooning them on or breaking their beads hasn't required an unusually herculean effort.

For the front, neither the K761 nor the K270 is as highly praised as their rear counterparts. The K761 front is said to often wear unevenly, and the K270 front is said to not be very stable while leaned over on pavement. Many have complained of squirm with the front K270. I run a similar $30 Shinko 244 up front, but the side knobs are bolstered better than on the K270. It grips pavement pretty well for me, and does OK offroad, but it is neither an SM tire nor a full-on knobby. I often swap it out for a full-on knobby if I'm doing a lot of dirt. The 244 tours very well for a tire that runs dirt better than the stock Trailwing.

The 80/100 AMS Sand Snake MX knobby I use is not nearly as pavement-friendly as the 244, but I get it for around $22, and it carves through sand like a pizza cutter. It even lasts a few K miles on the pavement. Straight slab is OK, but it doesn't like being leaned way over on pavement at speed. I may start trying some inexpensive Shinko front knobs next, or pony up for a Pirelli MT21 or XCMH, as these latter two seem pretty popular front knobs for being under $100/ea. Both the Shinko 244 and the AMS Sand Snake 21"ers spoon on and break their beads pretty darn easily. I barely need tools.

From what I keep hearing, the XCMH actually lasts a while on pavement, and doesn't handle curves as bad as one would think. The MT21 wears a bit quicker, but it handles nicely on pavement and can be reversed to get more mileage out of it. The MT21s I rode on felt more stable on hardball turns than my AMS knobby does anyway.

BTW, experiment quite a bit with pressures when trying a new tire. It can REALLY change the longevity, feel, and performance of some tires. Even my sand knobby doesn't feel good in sand if I put 30psi in it.
Hey Kommando. Enlighten me on the 30 PSI figure. When I checked my DR650 w/knobbies tire pressure today both had 20 PSI so I bumped them up to 30 and promptly busted my butt not once, not twice but three times in deep sand. Wasn't going fast at all (or my 61 yr old self would have broke something). Seems like front tire wanted to do one thing then rear another and I'm wadded up going OOOOOOFFF!. Any hints other than sell the bike?
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:27 PM   #74302
BlueLghtning
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Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Newnan, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320 View Post
Hey Kommando. Enlighten me on the 30 PSI figure. When I checked my DR650 w/knobbies tire pressure today both had 20 PSI so I bumped them up to 30 and promptly busted my butt not once, not twice but three times in deep sand. Wasn't going fast at all (or my 61 yr old self would have broke something). Seems like front tire wanted to do one thing then rear another and I'm wadded up going OOOOOOFFF!. Any hints other than sell the bike?
Why did you bump your pressures up to 30? I think his comment was a tongue in cheek comment meaning even a good off road tire handles like crap with too much air in it.

20 psi is even a little high for me when I'm doing serious off road. I tend to ride closer to 17-18psi or sometimes less, but 20 is pretty safe. 30 is way too much off road and as you found makes things way worse. I even think the max pressure on some knobbies is under 30psi, so pay attention to that too.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:34 PM   #74303
ShadyRascal
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If you're in real sand, the lowest pressure you can possibly run is best.
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:19 AM   #74304
Chill
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Location: QLD Australia
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I have a Clarke tank, does anyone know which aftermarket caps fit this tank. I'm looking at some RHK ones like this http://www.jtr.com.au/pdfs/rhk/rhk_alloy_tank_caps.pdf
I have the original plastic one but it is cracking so thinking it would be better to replace with something Ally.

Thanks.
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:38 AM   #74305
kbuckey
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Lookout Mountain - above Golden, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
they will but at $150 ea.
these days the $50 tire will run 3-4K.

when the german tires where priced at $100 it worked because 2x the price and 2x the mileage.

if you need 6-8K in a single tour run then yes they are priceless. if you are back home to change with in 3-4K and you don't mind the change then shinko 242, IRCs etc. make more sense.

one sleeper and little talked about $90 high-mileage tire is this one:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx
Eakins, I "accidentally" got a pair of TW22s (they were the only game in town in some small town in northern CA) and found they weren't bad, but they only lasted a tad over 6000 miles, compared to over 9000 for the Metzeler Tourances I usually run. The 'Stones were a bit better in the dirt.
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:29 AM   #74306
wee-twin
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Westchester County, N.Y.
Oddometer: 200
CSS damper?

I saw there is a damper that goes between the counter shaft sprocket and the retainer plate. I know it is not necessary, but should I get one?
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:40 AM   #74307
procycle
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Location: Center of the DR650 universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wee-twin View Post
I saw there is a damper that goes between the counter shaft sprocket and the retainer plate. I know it is not necessary, but should I get one?
Sure, if you are bothered by chain noise. The only function of the damper is to shush the noise of the chain running around the sprocket.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:38 AM   #74308
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
(the washer under the hex bolt on the carb cover)
That looks like a socket head cap screw rather than a hex bolt to me.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:51 AM   #74309
wee-twin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Sure, if you are bothered by chain noise. The only function of the damper is to shush the noise of the chain running around the sprocket.
Ok, don't care about chain noise so I do not need. Thanks.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:21 AM   #74310
gofast1320
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Location: Middle Tennessee
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Why 30?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
Why did you bump your pressures up to 30? I think his comment was a tongue in cheek comment meaning even a good off road tire handles like crap with too much air in it.

20 psi is even a little high for me when I'm doing serious off road. I tend to ride closer to 17-18psi or sometimes less, but 20 is pretty safe. 30 is way too much off road and as you found makes things way worse. I even think the max pressure on some knobbies is under 30psi, so pay attention to that too.
Why 30? Because I'm learning here and it seemed to me that 18 wasn't enough for a fat guy and I didn't want to pinch a tube. I run 30 or so in my F800GS tires so I figured I'd try that on the DR since I can drop it all day and not spend the money fixing it I'd spend on dropping the F800 once, not to mention the DR is a hell of a lot easier to pick up. Just want to ride and not fall over so much.
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