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Old 03-06-2013, 11:26 AM   #74401
Mambo Dave
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Pompano Beach, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
That suggests your pilot jet is plugged.
I was thinking the same, or that some orifice was plugged up or partially blocked.

I just got through a huge learning curve with a Kawasaki Vulcan's carb, and this sounded very familliar.
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:24 PM   #74402
Bo Radley
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
I picked up a 100% stock 2005 with low miles for $3700.

BTW - the yellow ones are the fastest.
I got my stock '05 with 9k miles for $2700.
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:41 PM   #74403
Kommando
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 6,068
Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
Just installed a heavier rear shock and new front valves and springs and it sits a little higher. But that doesnt really play a difference in comfort since the pegs and seat are still the same distance apart. ... doh...
Also cut an inch out of your footpeg brackets and weld them back together with the upper part further back towards the rear of the bike. Procycle offers lowered mounts too, and other vendors make lowering brackets as well.

Get a tall seatfoam kit. Seat Concepts and others offer these.

Get taller bars and/or bar-risers.

Add touring pegs to your skid. Happy Trails offers these. Lower your passenger pegs 2" and use those too, on long trips.
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Old 03-06-2013, 12:54 PM   #74404
BK.RD.RNR
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Watching Kenny61 Ground Assault Videos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I was thinking the same, or that some orifice was plugged up or partially blocked.

I just got through a huge learning curve with a Kawasaki Vulcan's carb, and this sounded very familliar.
I don't know if you guys have seen the Pine Sol Degreaser Thread, but the process works really well on Carbs..

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560117
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:59 PM   #74405
Obard
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Location: Kapowsin, Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I was thinking the same, or that some orifice was plugged up or partially blocked.

I just got through a huge learning curve with a Kawasaki Vulcan's carb, and this sounded very familliar.
Ok, so is it possible to clean out the jet/orifice without taking the carb off, or is this going to require removal and dunk? I've been mucking around with the (new) extended idle mixture screw, turning in and out (procycle recommended 2.5 turns to start with) and I can change the stumble, but it doesn't go away, exactly. Let me get this straight, turning the screw in, leans it up? Turning it out, richens the mixture?
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:21 PM   #74406
YankeeCajun
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Joined: Feb 2013
Oddometer: 11
testing the motor compression on my DR 650--need advice

I have a 2000 DR 650 with 20,000 miles on it. Its starts up fine and does not smoke. Pep Boys has a 20% off everything sale so I snatched a compression tester to check out the compression on my bike. The best number I got was 95 psi after warming the bike up a little bit and holding the throttle wide open. I did my valves last summer and they are all in spec. The Suzuki service manual sez the DR 650 needs to put out 120 psi. Since my bike only put out 95 psi is this a "bad" sign or is it normal considering the mileage?
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:21 PM   #74407
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
Ok, so is it possible to clean out the jet/orifice without taking the carb off, or is this going to require removal and dunk? I've been mucking around with the (new) extended idle mixture screw, turning in and out (procycle recommended 2.5 turns to start with) and I can change the stumble, but it doesn't go away, exactly. Let me get this straight, turning the screw in, leans it up? Turning it out, richens the mixture?
Ideally, pull the Carb off the bike. Just not that hard to do. That way you can get an up close look at it ... and learn all its workings. It's pretty simple. Working insitu is a bit of a pain ... but can be done by rotating Carb
90 degrees round.

To remove:
Remove seat, tank, side panels.
Loosen one of the two throttle cable adjuster nuts (10mm) and unscrew plastic choke. Lay cables aside.

Remove any vent or drain hoses in your way ... note where they came from.

Loosen two steel bands on air box and manifold rubbers holding Carb in place. Now gently wrestle Carb out of there. A 2nd set of fingers can help to squish air box manifold down.

The Pilot Jet is accessed by removing the Float Bowl. If your Carb still has the stock Phllips screws ... well .. they are VERY TIGHT and hard to remove. (thank EPA and CARB)

If PO has replaced them with allen screws ... then all the easier.
If stock screws are there carefully use an Impact Driver with the correct JIS bit. Hold Carb in vise with wood blocks ... not too tight.

Once the Bowl is off you will see both the Main jet and Pilot Jet near by.
Note jet numbers, blow out (eye protection) orifices where jets live. Carefully clean the tiny holes in the Pilot jet. Check O rings holding float and clean out that orifice. How does the bowl look? Grit? Sand in there? Water? Rust? Some replace ALL O rings at this time.

On top of the Carb, you can access the needle and slide. Make sure it's installed correctly and set on a notch that works with your jetting, altitude and use. Riding and testing works best here. DR's can be run very lean ... even with an open air box and pipe.

Correct on the Fuel Screw. IN is lean, OUT is rich. If jetting is correct, ONE TURN out from fully seated should be about right, give or take a 1/2 turn.

If you're unsure about the Pilot Jet ... just replace it with a new one. Stock size is good ... no matter the Carb/Air Box mods.
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:22 PM   #74408
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
Ok, so is it possible to clean out the jet/orifice without taking the carb off, or is this going to require removal and dunk? I've been mucking around with the (new) extended idle mixture screw, turning in and out (procycle recommended 2.5 turns to start with) and I can change the stumble, but it doesn't go away, exactly. Let me get this straight, turning the screw in, leans it up? Turning it out, richens the mixture?
I would just replace the pilot jet.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:13 PM   #74409
victor441
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Oddometer: 729
Quote:
Originally Posted by disconnected View Post
Any Seat Concepts riders on board here. The price seems the most affordable. I have a compressor, but what type of staples are used to mount the seat? Did you guys use some sort of air stapler etc? Im capable, but want to know what im getting into.

specifically I like the seat concepts idea since they offer a "tall" at Procycle.

greg
I have one and like it a lot, bought an air stapler at HF for $25 or so and that worked great for the installation...the seat pan is hard plastic so you need the power of an air tool to sink the staples well. My "compressor" is a wimpy 120V tire inflator but the stapler uses so little air that it did the job fine. The staples are 1/4 or 5/16 T50's IIRC...

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Old 03-06-2013, 06:00 PM   #74410
Escaped
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Location: Northern California
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If your bike is running fine, I would not worry about it. If fact I would only bother checking the compression if I was having an issue.

My bike has 40,000 + miles, and by the seat of my pants, I have no noticeable power loss.

When you said you "did my valves" do your mean you got a valve job not just checked and adjusted the clearance? If so what prompted you to rebuild the upper end?

Quote:
Originally Posted by YankeeCajun View Post
I have a 2000 DR 650 with 20,000 miles on it. Its starts up fine and does not smoke. Pep Boys has a 20% off everything sale so I snatched a compression tester to check out the compression on my bike. The best number I got was 95 psi after warming the bike up a little bit and holding the throttle wide open. I did my valves last summer and they are all in spec. The Suzuki service manual sez the DR 650 needs to put out 120 psi. Since my bike only put out 95 psi is this a "bad" sign or is it normal considering the mileage?
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:30 PM   #74411
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped View Post
If your bike is running fine, I would not worry about it. If fact I would only bother checking the compression if I was having an issue.
Me too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Escaped View Post
My bike has 40,000 + miles, and by the seat of my pants, I have no noticeable power loss.
+ 1
My DR is at 44,118 miles, not those wimpy kilometer thingies.
Jus checkin' to see if the Aussie and Kiwi riders are keepin' up.
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Old 03-06-2013, 06:40 PM   #74412
bullittman281
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Location: northern colorado
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The auto decompressor will reduce your readings. Actual will be much higher.

If it doesn't burn oil, smoke, run bad and has full power it must be good.

Bullittman
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:03 PM   #74413
TrophyHunter
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 1,595
Quote:
Originally Posted by BombayG View Post
I am looking for a nice dual sport to take around town (I live near Los Angelese so i need one that can go on the freeway rides, city/town rides and I also want to take it off roading once in a while). That being said after my minimal research I came to the conclusion that the DR 650 post 2003 is a good choice for both freeway riding and off roading.
Welcome aboard. As you can imagine, we're biased to the DR650 but it fits for what you've described. Shu and Adv Grifter, among others, have put 1000's of miles on these bikes with extensive cross country and international travel. Also, Google Jammin' thru the Global South and read up on Jay's adventures along with Shortwayround. Great bike prep and travel reading. Shu posted his recently in the last few pages.

If you do get one and want to do the ride/drive to San Diego, I'll go over your DR with you and swap out all the common "fixes" with you so you can learn the bike. One I'd do for sure and the others are optional but helpful.

Good luck on the hunt.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:23 PM   #74414
Obard
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Kapowsin, Washington
Oddometer: 26
I love this place. You folks are awsome.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Ideally, pull the Carb off the bike. Just not that hard to do. That way you can get an up close look at it ... and learn all its workings. It's pretty simple. Working insitu is a bit of a pain ... but can be done by rotating Carb
90 degrees round.

To remove:
Remove seat, tank, side panels.
Loosen one of the two throttle cable adjuster nuts (10mm) and unscrew plastic choke. Lay cables aside.

Remove any vent or drain hoses in your way ... note where they came from.

Loosen two steel bands on air box and manifold rubbers holding Carb in place. Now gently wrestle Carb out of there. A 2nd set of fingers can help to squish air box manifold down.

The Pilot Jet is accessed by removing the Float Bowl. If your Carb still has the stock Phllips screws ... well .. they are VERY TIGHT and hard to remove. (thank EPA and CARB)

If PO has replaced them with allen screws ... then all the easier.
If stock screws are there carefully use an Impact Driver with the correct JIS bit. Hold Carb in vise with wood blocks ... not too tight.

Once the Bowl is off you will see both the Main jet and Pilot Jet near by.
Note jet numbers, blow out (eye protection) orifices where jets live. Carefully clean the tiny holes in the Pilot jet. Check O rings holding float and clean out that orifice. How does the bowl look? Grit? Sand in there? Water? Rust? Some replace ALL O rings at this time.

On top of the Carb, you can access the needle and slide. Make sure it's installed correctly and set on a notch that works with your jetting, altitude and use. Riding and testing works best here. DR's can be run very lean ... even with an open air box and pipe.

Correct on the Fuel Screw. IN is lean, OUT is rich. If jetting is correct, ONE TURN out from fully seated should be about right, give or take a 1/2 turn.

If you're unsure about the Pilot Jet ... just replace it with a new one. Stock size is good ... no matter the Carb/Air Box mods.
You folks on this board are awsome. I can't tell ya how great it is to ask a question and get so much help so quick like. Sincere thanks to everyone for all the insightful help. -Andy
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:59 PM   #74415
neo1piv014
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Oddometer: 618
So I got the chain, sprockets, and TM40 carb installed over the last few days. I decided to go +1 on the front tooth since I do a lot of highway miles on this bike. My initial impressions are that the TM40's idle adjustment is a bit odd, but it's definitely getting sorted out. Honestly, I can't really tell any difference in power between the new carb and the old one, and that's with the gearing change. I might swap back to the stock gearing just to see what kind of a difference the carb alone makes, but I'm pretty happy with it. I was wondering if any of the folks on this thread could tell me how they went about doing the idle adjustment for this carb. It seems like it takes a lot of turns on that screw to get it to really make a difference.
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