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Old 03-07-2013, 09:26 AM   #74401
wRnR
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I'm considering getting a new 2013 DR650 for me and my wife.
I'm 110kg, she's about 55kg. How will the bike do? Will it handle the weight fine or will we kill it?
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:35 AM   #74402
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I don't think any damage was done running the motor briefly with out oil. The bearings still had oil on them and the motor did not heat up and no load was on it. I would not worry.

Long long time ago, a buddy and I wanted to see how long a 1970 something Toyota would run with out oil (the car was destined for the wrecker). We drained the oil, started the car and put a brick on the accelerator pedal .... It kept running and running, the rpm's would drift because of valve float but it keep going! Then after like a half an hour, we turned it off, drained the coolent and started it up again. It lasted 10 min after that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by YankeeCajun View Post
Sorry for the confusion--I just checked and adjusted the valve clearances last summer--no full valve job. I did take apart the whole motor to put in the upgraded metal base gasket. I got everything put back together and forgot to put the oil back in the motor-. Had the bike sit idling for approximately one minute until the clatter of the valves reminded me I had forgot to put the oil back in. I put the oil back in and all seems ok. No smoke, starts just as easy as it always has. Couldn't tell any difference in the power either. I was just concerned about the 95 psi rating instead of the book rated 120 psi. As Paul Harvey would say: AND NOW YOU KNOW THE REST OF THE STORY, lol.

Thanks for all the posts on my question guys/gals!!
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:52 AM   #74403
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I'll ask here before making a totally different thread on it.

I've seen YouTube videos taunting me with excellent dashboards made by owners for DR650's, yet they are always like "here's John's bike! Look at that dash!" ... but no one gets into the metal working aspect of it

Granted, I could figure it all out for myself - it's just simple cutting, bending and drilling...

I don't know why, but I'd like to see either some pictures of a DR650 dash when it's off of the bike (showing the build) or maybe a video of making such a dash.

The most recent taunt I've seen was:



Oh. wait, it's Curtis making both I've recently seen



I guess it would be cheaper to plan it out and have some metal shop plasma-cut and bend some aluminum plate, then I could do the drilling...

I just don't have the tools (or don't think I do) to get a good result. But I want to make one... so... any tips?
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:23 AM   #74404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
...I want to make one... so... any tips?
If I was going to make such a thing I would first mock it up in cardboard. When I was pretty sure I had it all figured out I might then mock it up in ABS plastic sheet. Using some kind of CAD drawing program can make the whole process go smoother. Once you have a final mock-up or drawing take it to a fab shop and have aluminum laser or waterjet cut, folded and welded.

Consider just fabricating your dash from ABS sheet. ABS that is textured on one side can look pretty good and is easier/cheaper to fab with than aluminum.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:57 AM   #74405
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jiiassa View Post
If BST set up is fine for power and cold weather, it takes much more gas.
I doubt many get more than 50 MPG with a TM40. (sorry, not sure of the kms per liter conversion) I think perhaps you never had your BST Carb set up correctly. With proper breathing and jetting the BST allows very good power and still delivers good MPG.

True about the mid range gap ... the TM40 is better there. My main complaint with the TM40 is the very stiff throttle action. Very tiring on a long day ... especially riding off road. I hate stiff throttles.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:07 AM   #74406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I doubt many get more than 50 MPG with a TM40. (sorry, not sure of the kms per liter conversion) I think perhaps you never had your BST Carb set up correctly. With proper breathing and jetting the BST allows very good power and still delivers good MPG.

True about the mid range gap ... the TM40 is better there. My main complaint with the TM40 is the very stiff throttle action. Very tiring on a long day ... especially riding off road. I hate stiff throttles.
My FCR-MX has a very light throttle spring. When I got the bike, he mentioned that he had installed a lighter spring, I think from ProCycle. In fact, I almost find it TOO light. Often times, going slow, I will relax my hand and the throttle doesn't actually close all the way, and I have to make a point of closing it. I wish it was just a little stiffer. :)

Conversely, the throttle spring on my Polaris Outlaw 525 ATV, which uses the same carb, is freakin' STIFF.

Rob
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:17 AM   #74407
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by planemanx15 View Post
New project guys... Since the 790 is done, and there is now more snow on the ground

Im going to attempt to build a fuel gauge. Basically, I want to tee off the fuel valve, and use a clear tube routed up the back side of the IMS tank near the seat and tank joint, and then vented to in the tank. I will need to tap into the tank near the top, or I will try to find another place to vent outside the tank that will not let water in.

I really don't want to drill into the tank, so Ill probably try to find somewhere else to vent to. Probably will try to find a small round ball that can float on top of the fuel in the clear line. I had a jetski that had an oil tank with a gauge like that, it worked great without any power or excessive tech.

Edit: I dont use the standard IMS tank cap, so venting to a tee on the cap would not work. I use the locking type cap.
It will be interesting to see what you can come up with. For me fuel gauges have only served as a rough guide ... I find actual mileage readings more accurate.

I've run my bike dry a few times ... and always ZERO odometer at fill up.
I've also run my reserve dry, so I know what my range is and know range of reserve as well.

Of course, you have to factor in conditions, head wind, load and road speed. I usually allow a bit of lee way and cushion. The 5 US gal. IMS generally gives 200 to 215 miles before running out. On reserve I can go another 25 to 30 miles. YMMV (after that you have to lay the bike on its side to get that last 2 liters that's hiding in there!
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:18 AM   #74408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I doubt many get more than 50 MPG with a TM40. (sorry, not sure of the kms per liter conversion) I think perhaps you never had your BST Carb set up correctly. With proper breathing and jetting the BST allows very good power and still delivers good MPG.

True about the mid range gap ... the TM40 is better there. My main complaint with the TM40 is the very stiff throttle action. Very tiring on a long day ... especially riding off road. I hate stiff throttles.
I agree!
So stiff I took it off and went back to my PC jetted stock carb. What a relief on my forearm and little noticeable difference in performance.
To me anyway


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Old 03-07-2013, 11:20 AM   #74409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FASTnSPEEDY View Post
In yalls opinion, what would a early 2000's DR 650 roller go for?

We're talking frame, wheels, tires, title, and all the other engine and body parts in bins (bike is technically complete except that the ?transmission? has some sort of issue, not really sure as the p/o took it apart and gave up with it).
I wouldn't pay more than $1K for it. I've seen running DRs in OK shape go for $1K.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:25 AM   #74410
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
I'll ask here before making a totally different thread on it.

I've seen YouTube videos taunting me with excellent dashboards made by owners for DR650's, yet they are always like "here's John's bike! Look at that dash!" ... but no one gets into the metal working aspect of it
Sounds like a good topic for a NEW DR650 Custom Dash Build Thread!
Go For It! I've seen some real beauties out there ... but would be nice to see them all in one place. Maybe add topic to DR index thread?
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:33 AM   #74411
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wRnR View Post
I'm considering getting a new 2013 DR650 for me and my wife.
I'm 110kg, she's about 55kg. How will the bike do? Will it handle the weight fine or will we kill it?
Tweak the suspension and no problems at all.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:36 AM   #74412
Kommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wRnR View Post
Hi evry1, can someone tell me how the DR650 does with a passenger riding with? Comfort? Power? Is it a nice bike for 2?
thanx!
It depends on your size and preferences. I'm 5'8"/200lb/30" inseam and my GF is 5'4"/petite/30" inseam. We 2up a lot on the DR, even with luggage. Beef the springs for the payload.

I cut about 1" out of the rider peg brackets, so they're a bit lower. I added lowering brackets with 2 positions for the passenger pegs, so they're stock, 2" lower, or 4" lower. I also have Happy Trails touring pegs bolted to my skid. The best mods for 2up comfort for us though have been moving the Givi plate/topcase 3" further rearward and changing the seat to Seat Concepts foam.

Power is not an issue for me. My DR has a jetted BST40 carb, UNI filter, and stock exhaust at sea level. With 14/42, 15/42, 16/42, or 16/46 sprockets, it will still accelerate both of us and our luggage uphill from 80MPH (indicated) in top gear. Most stock cages under $six figures won't keep up with it to 60MPH, unless I'm babying it to keep the front end down in 1st.

It's no big touring bike, but if you're our size or smaller the DR can work. I'm more used to smaller ergos like on my old KZ440 and my YX600 anyway, but I've also spent quite a bit of time on a bigger GL1200 and a GS850G. The DR is more comfy now on the slab than my YX600 is. It cheats wind better, and I have the touring pegs to stretch out on. Phreaky Phil made a few other ergonomic adjustments to his DR and used it to do the TAT 2up with luggage, and he's taller than I am. There are a few others who rode from the US to Tierra del Fuego 2up on a DR too.

Kommando screwed with this post 03-07-2013 at 03:08 PM
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:02 PM   #74413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
I agree!
So stiff I took it off and went back to my PC jetted stock carb. What a relief on my forearm and little noticeable difference in performance.
To me anyway


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any of you try one of these?






http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product...rol/web1001431

I put one on for my Blue Ridge Parkway ride and have not wanted to take it off.

It slips on over the grip and you position it so the heel of your palm presses it down. That way you can relax your grip and still keep the throttle open. I don't even notice it while riding tough offroad stuff. Got it on sale for half that price. a bargain if you ask me.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:06 PM   #74414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum Noel View Post
My DR is at 44,118 miles, not those wimpy kilometer thingies.
Jus checkin' to see if the Aussie and Kiwi riders are keepin' up.


Don't worry we're still here in the back ground keeping an eye on proceedings
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumper Dan View Post
Second that


Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
It will be interesting to see what you can come up with. For me fuel gauges have only served as a rough guide ...
I just bought an Acerbis 5.3, natural color so I could see the fuel level.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I find actual mileage readings more accurate.

I've run my bike dry a few times ... and always ZERO odometer at fill up.
I've also run my reserve dry, so I know what my range is and know range of reserve as well.

Of course, you have to factor in conditions, head wind, load and road speed. I usually allow a bit of lee way and cushion. The 5 US gal. IMS generally gives 200 to 215 miles before running out. On reserve I can go another 25 to 30 miles. YMMV (after that you have to lay the bike on its side to get that last 2 liters that's hiding in there!
With my conservative solo riding, I get to 160 (+/- 5) before I hit reserve (alt 6000 and up). Since I'm riding locally, I don't think about gas until I hit reserve (low traffic situations so the stumbling when switching the petcock doesn't get me hit). Although I've ridden 39 miles on reserve, I put in 3.4 gallons when I did, it was empty. My point is: once I hit reserve, I have 35 miles to find a station.

fwiw: Although I get 60 mpg here at altitude, my mileage dropped to 48 mpg on my recent Kalif riding, no carb changes (snorkle out, + another 2" hole). (It's winter, the bike rode to Kalif in the truck. )
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:14 PM   #74415
Mambo Dave
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Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
. In fact, I almost find it TOO light. Often times, going slow, I will relax my hand and the throttle doesn't actually close all the way, and I have to make a point of closing it.

...
JUST the way I like it.

I ride roads often enough that when I need to stretch, wave, signal, point, pull something out of a pocket, etc... I do NOT want my throttle snapping back at speed.

I had a ZX-7R years ago with a slightly sticky throttle (it's always in the cables / routing), and have come to prefer a throttle that stays where I put it.

Now if I ever own a true dirt bike, yeah, I want the throttle to snap back on its own. But for commuting... I love light springs or just not fighting a throttle.
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X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
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