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Old 03-09-2013, 04:38 AM   #74506
TrophyHunter
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Looks well set up, dopra. I'd fasten down that front brake line so you don't lose it on the first bush. Are those frame protectors a manufactured item or home built? They look great and would be a good addition to my bike if you have a source.

Thx for the pics. Always a benefit of the DR....the ability to make it your own.
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Old 03-09-2013, 04:42 AM   #74507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Looks well set up, dopra. I'd fasten down that front brake line so you don't lose it on the first bush. Are those frame protectors a manufactured item or home built? They look great and would be a good addition to my bike if you have a source.

Thx for the pics. Always a benefit of the DR....the ability to make it your own.
Yes, I will install front brake line, frame protector it is home made production, not mine.
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:29 AM   #74508
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thanks

That looks fairly simple, is the trick just getting good balance on a hard surface?
Where might one find one of these?
Thank you good sir.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Not that complicated. This will even work on the side of the road.
Alu tri pod arm.
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:32 AM   #74509
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thanks

Thanks Sarah, that looks great for the garage, is it fairly sturdy?


Quote:
Originally Posted by greer View Post
We use this transmission jack from Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html

Raise it just a tad to let the bike sit level or go on up to get one or both wheels off the ground. Use a 1/2" drive ratchet to crank it.

Sarah
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:52 AM   #74510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIGERRIDER007 View Post
That looks fairly simple, is the trick just getting good balance on a hard surface?
Where might one find one of these?
Thank you good sir.
I bought a few of these Trail Stands from an inmate in the Vendor forums. They are very compact and at less than $30, a bargain.

They work really well for removing wheels, or lubing the chain, which is what I'm doing in the picture.

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Old 03-09-2013, 06:29 AM   #74511
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Originally Posted by dman View Post
Hi - my DR is missing the horizontal "block" part of the rear chain guide (vertical plates are OK). Only a complete assembly seems to be available, either OEM plastic parts or Moose or other aluminum aftermarket guides. Cost is about the same .... any recommendations? If you have gone aftermarket and have the stock part and screws that you want to get rid of PM me.

Thanks - dman
I had one where it was removed due to being noisy at speed. When I got my newer dr, it really was. I ran full speed up and down the mountains with no chain guide and it was unnerving to hear the chain hit the swing arm.

Pro cycle and keintech sell an upgraded version.
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:21 AM   #74512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I bought a few of these Trail Stands from an inmate in the Vendor forums. They are very compact and at less than $30, a bargain.

They work really well for removing wheels, or lubing the chain, which is what I'm doing in the picture.

I see Keintech also has a "simple stand", works on the front or back. I think it's ~$30 or so.
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:08 AM   #74513
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Originally Posted by BombayG View Post
Did any of you guys weld new supports / gussets for your Dr650? I hear if oyu load up a bit of gear and go on long trips the frame (near the luggage area) is prone to cracking?
A bit of gear should be no issue. Reports of DR frame cracking are very rare from what I've seen. The 1st gen KLR650's had the bad reputation for this problem, iirc. It you're really, really going to be heavily loaded for long distances on hammeringly rough roads, you might find some inspiration here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=712386
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:16 AM   #74514
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
True ... and many other Kenda tires have proved to be long wearing ...
look at the K270. Its famous. Not sure what they did wrong on the BIG BLOCK ... but it's for sure a bust for them. No Worries ... they'll be back with something better.
Simple.

The K270 has incredibly tall lugs (so tall in fact that it detracts from paved road performance and squishes all around when cornering...but hey it's cheap ie. a KLR tire). There is just alot of rear tire rubber height to wear down before they wear out. The rubber is not that great of a compound but there is alot of it.

The the knobby height of the Big Block is very short compared to. I think Kenda just decided let's make a shorter knobby version for bigger bikes that will not be so squirmy on the pavement. Then they forget to engineer some better rubber compounds to deal with less rubber being available before wear out point. They did it on the cheap and it shows.

Before the Shinko 705, Maxxis had the Pressa tire. It looked to be middle ground between the TKC & the Tourance. Maxxis also used crap rubber and they wore out fast. Maxxis dropped the tire and have not heard from in the ADV tire market since.

My point? Once you start building tires for the ADV market you're now in the big boy game with Michelin, Metzler, Conti, Heidenau and even Shinko. You better bring your A game with unique tread design and rubber compounds. Kenda brought their C game.
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:28 AM   #74515
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so, as a compromise tire, which gives the the better offroad grip,
Shinko 244 or Kenda 270?

Looking for something that will last longer than a full knobby, but retain as much grip in dirty situations as possible.

Since I have an 18" wheel avail, I'm even thinking about Pirelli MT43.
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:29 AM   #74516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Double-true.

I got twice the mileage out of Kenda's K761 compared to the stock TW42.
Kenda has gotten some good mileage out of the K761 rear because they designed in a center rear bar (like Heidenau does with 140 & 150 K60) that provide long life right down the middle.

You can see it here on the left tire pic.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...9QEwBg&dur=516.

The Big Block was all knobs and shorter ones at that.
To fix their fast wear problems they'll either need better rubber (but I doubt if they have the technology as were talking Chinese cheap here) or just add a center rubber wear strip (the cheap fix).


If you start studying a K761 and a Heidenau K60 you see they are using the same general tread design idea.
The K761 would make a good rear tire for a mullet combo, but I'd still put $ on this one if you need to go the distance on a long tour:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:31 AM   #74517
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I like the DR because its aircooled and no doohickey to fix unlike the KLR. I like the KLR because it is big and roomy with a 6 gallon gas tank. Has anyone ever put a DR motor in a KLR frame? Best of both worlds me thinks and it would lighten the KLR too.
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:39 AM   #74518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
so, as a compromise tire, which gives the the better offroad grip,
Shinko 244 or Kenda 270?

Looking for something that will last longer than a full knobby, but retain as much grip in dirty situations as possible.

Since I have an 18" wheel avail, I'm even thinking about Pirelli MT43.
i've heard the K270 is a little better rear in that aspect.
the lugs are slightly wider and the rubber compound is slightly softer thus grippier.

there is also the IRC GP-1
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx
Shinko gets all the attention because of the good price and decent tire but IRC (japanese build) is a better tire...at $128 it's a hard sell however and most choose Kenda or Shinko instead.
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:40 AM   #74519
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Originally Posted by racer View Post
I like the DR because its aircooled and no doohickey to fix unlike the KLR. I like the KLR because it is big and roomy with a 6 gallon gas tank. Has anyone ever put a DR motor in a KLR frame? Best of both worlds me thinks and it would lighten the KLR too.
yust take a dr650 & put on a bigger tank, better seat, and lowered pegs/different bars. seems a much simpler solution, imo.

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Old 03-09-2013, 10:44 AM   #74520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer View Post
I like the DR because its aircooled and no doohickey to fix unlike the KLR. I like the KLR because it is big and roomy with a 6 gallon gas tank. Has anyone ever put a DR motor in a KLR frame? Best of both worlds me thinks and it would lighten the KLR too.
No! The DR frame is better IMO & the KLR suspension is bad.

I had a KLR and understand what to talk of.
I got that KLR opened-up comfort & felling with a big tank, windscreen, taller bars (atv mid) and dropped foot pegs (ProCycle).
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