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Old 03-12-2013, 05:46 AM   #74641
shu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
What IS that? A weather radar thing?

Dunno. There was a lot of crap up there, though.

........shu


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Old 03-12-2013, 07:16 AM   #74642
rand0mlychrisUK
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Question

Hi guys,
Any thoughts on the pre-'96 vs post-'96 battle?
Looking at a '93rseu here, fairing and all, just wondered...

Cheers,
Chris
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:39 AM   #74643
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650DG View Post
ready....
Gear, 4th drive
bush, 5th drive
Gear, 5th drive
3rd pinion Circ
Gear, 1st driven
3rd pinion circ
Gear, 3rd driven
bush, 3rd/4th Dr
Gear, 4th Driven
Gear, 5th driven
Fork, gear shift
fork, gear shift
Fork, gear shift
Fork, gear shift
Shaft, gear shift
Shaft, gear shift
cam, gear shift
plate, gear shift
circlip
gasket, cylinder
o ring, inspection
plug, cylinder H
O ring
Gasket cyl
gasket magneto
gasket,clutch
B1 12X28X8 bear
circlip
ring set, piston
cr shaft rh oil
gasket tensione
filter, engine
suzuki oil 10w40
Kev high perf clutch disc set

This is all the parts needed to do the rebuild.
Definitely find a used motor. IMO All that $$ and then the time to put it together. Nevermind if one item goes on backorder. You're losing daylight. (riding time)
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:51 AM   #74644
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoPaRider View Post
I'm sure this has been asked and answered here before, but since the air box mod has been brought up and I'm deciding whether to do the air box mod or not, what are the pros and cons to doing so and has anyone wished they hadn't done the mod afterwards?

Jeff

'09 DR650SE
Many dont touch the airbox and just ride the bike,mine is all stock and a plug check shows a sparkplug with just the right color,not horribly lean as many think it is. I ride in thick dust from time to time,and have gone through creeks where I was really glad I hadnt cut the airbox up.(muffler under water)
Stock jetting is pretty darn handy if you ride up to 10,000' elevation,the bike still runs good.
Jetting a DR in to gain power and run perfect at sea level or low elevation can back fire and blow black smoke when its ridden up high.
A loud muffler and cut up airbox can often feel like more power,often a dyno doesnt agree. I dont want to listen to a droning loud exhaust so I leave it alone.

Having said that,guys love to hack and cut and change their bikes and always will.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:55 AM   #74645
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rand0mlychrisUK View Post
Hi guys,
Any thoughts on the pre-'96 vs post-'96 battle?
Looking at a '93rseu here, fairing and all, just wondered...

Cheers,
Chris
You might want to stay with the 96 and up,the older ones are about 50lbs heavier and are a solid step backwards. Even a 96 and up is 80's technology for the most part.
Lots of aftermarket stuff for 96 and newer,not so much for the old ones.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:00 AM   #74646
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Obard:
Use a ratchet strap across the seat to get the 3 points aligned like BD's diagram. Pad the seat so the strap doesn't cut the seat cover. The bike will roll with the suspension pulled down (strapped), so check the tightness in several places.

When you're doing this, the chain slack will NOT be 1.2"-1.8". You just want free movement (no binding). And too loose is better than too tight!!

Be careful, as the kickstand might be too long and tip the bike over on the right side.

Like this (my shock is disconnected in this pic, don't pull it down this far).

Better pic, pulled down too far:
You can also follow Suzuki's instructions for setting chain slack at rest,it works great. Certain amount of slack when sitting on the sidestand and its done.
If theres tight spots like the OEM chain had on mine it will be noticeable going down the road.
Too tight is way worse then slightly loose on chains,its why guys rip the upper roller off the frame.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:56 AM   #74647
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Center stand

Does anyone know if the center stand for a dr pre 96 (old model) fits in a 96 dr650 (new model).
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:57 AM   #74648
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
You might want to stay with the 96 and up,the older ones are about 50lbs heavier and are a solid step backwards. Even a 96 and up is 80's technology for the most part.
Lots of aftermarket stuff for 96 and newer,not so much for the old ones.
Those RSE's are pretty cool and maybe worth having.

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Old 03-12-2013, 09:01 AM   #74649
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
I have 0 to 1/8 off-idle bog that i'm dealing with (some say just deal with it).
Does the bog happen anywhere above idle up to 1/8 opening? Does the problem improve or get worse when warmed up?
Quote:
Mods are: 2 washers on needle, 2nd hole drilled in the slide, pilot screw at 1 turn, snorkel pulled, Iridium plugs, aftermarket air filter.
I would install an adjustable needle instead of shimming a non-adjustable one. I would not drill the slide.
Quote:
-What is your opinion (again if I missed it) using the KTM adjustable needle vrs the non-US adjustable needle? I've heard they are ever so slightly different (in the tapper shape) with the KTM needle being richer.
I would try the non-USA adjustable needle first.
Quote:
I understand the KTM needle is longer (because an extra washer is used on that BST to help with engine vibration wear) and you must compensate for that when positioning to match the DR needle position.
You can raise the needle by one clip position to start, but I wouldn't worry about that too much, as the engine will tell you what clip position it wants when it comes time to tune 1/4 opening.
Quote:
Non-US DR needle or KTM?
I would try the non-USA DR needle first.
Quote:
The KTM needle is easy to order. I was planning on buying one. No idea about the non-US needle?
See http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038.
Quote:
-what is your opinion on drilling a 2nd hole in the slide, like is found on the KTM BST?
I think it's a bad idea.
Quote:
how is that affecting operation?
It drastically accelerates slide guide, emulsion tube slide and jet needle wear, while making less horsepower at every opening on the KTM I tried it on.
Quote:
& in what relationship to the spring tension?
Spring rate and preload controls the average height the slide rises to for a given intersection of throttle position and rpm. The lift hole area controls how damped the slide movement is, i.e. how much it oscillates.
Quote:
-I have a stock pipe on for now but will put back on a GSXR muffler when I can get to it in a few months.
What will happen to my setup? I know i need to test, but will this pipe require new jets or just needle clip adjustment and maybe some pilot screw fine tuning?
It likely won't need anything too radically different than what it needs now, but the engine will tell you.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:06 AM   #74650
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoPaRider View Post
I'm sure this has been asked and answered here before, but since the air box mod has been brought up and I'm deciding whether to do the air box mod or not, what are the pros and cons to doing so and has anyone wished they hadn't done the mod afterwards?
I wouldn't do it unless I knew that the compression, timing, exhaust flow and/or quality of fuel supported higher cylinder pressures without the danger of detonation. It may take some work to get jetted properly.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:23 AM   #74651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
A loud muffler and cut up airbox can often feel like more power,often a dyno doesnt agree.
This isn't the case with the DR. An open airbox and free flowing exhaust are good for about a 5-6 HP increase. That's very significant on a bike that only makes 34 HP at the tire in stock form.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:43 AM   #74652
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I wouldn't do it unless I knew that the compression, timing, exhaust flow and/or quality of fuel supported higher cylinder pressures without the danger of detonation. It may take some work to get jetted properly.

Regards,

Derek
Hundreds of DR riders have opened the air box with no hint of detonation ... or any other problems. DR motors losing compression is very rare. Unless the top end has been fooled with ... timing will not be off.

The DR650 runs perfectly on even the lowest Octane Mexican fuel. (roughly 84 Octane) No pinging ... even in 100F temps. I'm running stock exhaust but ran an FMF Q2 for the first 5000 miles ... no problems at all with open air box regards pinging, over heating or poor running.

I followed the Jesse tuning guide to start, once the DJ needle was installed, jetting was mere child's play... my bike runs on the lean side but not dangerously so. Makes better power than a stock bike (maybe one or two HP more), still gets around 50 MPG.

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 03-12-2013 at 10:49 AM
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:04 AM   #74653
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Hundreds of DR riders have opened the air box with no hint of detonation ... or any other problems.
A quick search reveals http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=67419, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...6#post18052596, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...3#post16094853, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...g#post15781952, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=15252, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...n#post20447527, and http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...n#post20440712
Quote:
DR motors losing compression is very rare.
I didn't say anything about losing compression.
Quote:
Unless the top end has been fooled with ... timing will not be off.
I was referring to the ignition timing. I was also not saying that it might be off. What I was trying to get at is that it could be advanced enough in stock form that the increase in cylinder pressures resultant from opening up the intake could lead to detonation. Sorry for not having been clearer...
Quote:
The DR650 runs perfectly on even the lowest Octane Mexican fuel. (roughly 84 Octane) No pinging ... even in 100F temps.
That may in fact be true, but realize that once you are able to hear it, it's pretty severe.
Quote:
I'm running stock exhaust but ran an FMF Q2 for the first 5000 miles ... no problems at all with open air box regards pinging, over heating or poor running.
The FMF wold have increased detonation resistance over stock.
Quote:
I followed the Jesse tuning guide to start, once the DJ needle was installed, jetting was mere child's play... my bike runs on the lean side but not dangerously so. Makes better power than a stock bike (maybe one or two HP more), still gets around 50 MPG.
Do you have dyno charts and EGA data to share with us?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:22 AM   #74654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btweaver13 View Post
Quick and dirty question: cruising at 65 MPH, what is the approximate RPM drop moving up from 14T to 15T on the CS? The ratio changes from .333 to .357 (6.7%); does that roughly equate into a 6.7% decrease in RPM at equal MPH (or 6.7% increase in MPH at equal RPM)?

I've seen a very generic rule of thumb that 1 tooth on the CS results in a 500 RPM change. If that's reasonably accurate, a CS swap will take place tonight.

Weave
When I go from a 15t to a 16t, it raises my comfortable cruising about 8 mph; from 67-8 to 75. GPS

I'm guessing 14t to 15t will be about the same, from whatever speed you're willing to run the 14t.
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:53 AM   #74655
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btweaver13 View Post
Quick and dirty question: cruising at 65 MPH, what is the approximate RPM drop moving up from 14T to 15T on the CS? The ratio changes from .333 to .357 (6.7%); does that roughly equate into a 6.7% decrease in RPM at equal MPH (or 6.7% increase in MPH at equal RPM)?

I've seen a very generic rule of thumb that 1 tooth on the CS results in a 500 RPM change. If that's reasonably accurate, a CS swap will take place tonight.

Weave
With a 42t rear, 14 to 15t is about a 300rpm drop.
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