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Old 03-11-2013, 08:50 PM   #74641
Obard
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Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Kapowsin, Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Obard:
Use a ratchet strap across the seat to get the 3 points aligned like BD's diagram. Pad the seat so the strap doesn't cut the seat cover. The bike will roll with the suspension pulled down (strapped), so check the tightness in several places.

When you're doing this, the chain slack will NOT be 1.2"-1.8". You just want free movement (no binding). And too loose is better than too tight!!

Be careful, as the kickstand might be too long and tip the bike over on the right side.

Like this (my shock is disconnected in this pic, don't pull it down this
Great to see the pic ER70S-2. I was staring at Bergdonk's diagram and trying to figure out how to do it. Got it now. Shouldn't be to hard. Thanks for the replies and diagrams/pics.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:59 PM   #74642
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
Great to see the pic ER70S-2. I was staring at Bergdonk's diagram and trying to figure out how to do it. Got it now. Shouldn't be too hard. Thanks for the replies and diagrams/pics.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:44 PM   #74643
Chill
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Originally Posted by shu View Post



.............shu
What IS that? A weather radar thing?
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:51 AM   #74644
eakins
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Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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Anyone have a good shape clutch assy? Even if the lever is bent, I just need the perch section. PM me. thnx.
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:20 AM   #74645
btweaver13
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14 vs 15 CS - Impact on RPM

Quick and dirty question: cruising at 65 MPH, what is the approximate RPM drop moving up from 14T to 15T on the CS? The ratio changes from .333 to .357 (6.7%); does that roughly equate into a 6.7% decrease in RPM at equal MPH (or 6.7% increase in MPH at equal RPM)?

I've seen a very generic rule of thumb that 1 tooth on the CS results in a 500 RPM change. If that's reasonably accurate, a CS swap will take place tonight.

Weave
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:32 AM   #74646
shu
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Location: Colorado
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Ola' compadres! ?Como estais todos?

Many BMW dealers have stock GS shocks laying around ... and sell for cheap ... as so many GS owners go to Ohlins or other aftermarket shock. Most don't want the stock WP units.

The stock WP on the GS is crap. My local BMW dealer was going out of business about 3 years ago ... he had a HUGE PILE of those WP GS shocks. NO ONE wanted them ... even at $20 ea. They ended up in the dumpster. Most were new or near new.

I'd go on line and snag a nice used one. Since you guys are just South of the Border, should not be too much of a PITA. Or ... go to BMW in Guadalajara ... they know a guy who rebuilds shocks there ... but that won't be cheap ... or convenient.

Suerte!
Gracias!

I believe it was the stocker. It actually had 85,000 miles on it so it didn't do too badly. Unfortunately, Karst (my riding partner) sent it off to be rebuilt (oil/ nitrogen) about a month before we left. The rebuild didn't last long.

We made some calls yesterday and ordered a shock. Since the border was still only a few hundred miles away we decided to ride to McAllen TX and have it overnighted to the UPS office there (saves importation fees and delays at Customs). I'll go pick up the shock this morning while Karst is taking the
bike apart. If all goes well, we'll be back in Mexico and on our way again this afternoon.

Someone said, 'the adventure starts when your plans stop working'

............shu
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:42 AM   #74647
blackcap
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Location: Wollongong aka stink-town, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btweaver13 View Post
Quick and dirty question: cruising at 65 MPH, what is the approximate RPM drop moving up from 14T to 15T on the CS? The ratio changes from .333 to .357 (6.7%); does that roughly equate into a 6.7% decrease in RPM at equal MPH (or 6.7% increase in MPH at equal RPM)?

I've seen a very generic rule of thumb that 1 tooth on the CS results in a 500 RPM change. If that's reasonably accurate, a CS swap will take place tonight.

Weave
i dont know how accurate it is but gives you a rough idea of what will happen

http://www.gearingcommander.com/
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:43 AM   #74648
doug s.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btweaver13 View Post
Quick and dirty question: cruising at 65 MPH, what is the approximate RPM drop moving up from 14T to 15T on the CS? The ratio changes from .333 to .357 (6.7%); does that roughly equate into a 6.7% decrease in RPM at equal MPH (or 6.7% increase in MPH at equal RPM)?

I've seen a very generic rule of thumb that 1 tooth on the CS results in a 500 RPM change. If that's reasonably accurate, a CS swap will take place tonight.

Weave
yes, 6.67% lower rpms at equal mileage. or, for example, you will be going ~64.3mph instead of 60 at the same rpms...

doug
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:46 AM   #74649
shu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill View Post
What IS that? A weather radar thing?

Dunno. There was a lot of crap up there, though.

........shu


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Old 03-12-2013, 07:16 AM   #74650
rand0mlychrisUK
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Tallinn, Estonia
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Question

Hi guys,
Any thoughts on the pre-'96 vs post-'96 battle?
Looking at a '93rseu here, fairing and all, just wondered...

Cheers,
Chris
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:39 AM   #74651
Rusty Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Northcentral CT
Oddometer: 8,496
Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650DG View Post
ready....
Gear, 4th drive
bush, 5th drive
Gear, 5th drive
3rd pinion Circ
Gear, 1st driven
3rd pinion circ
Gear, 3rd driven
bush, 3rd/4th Dr
Gear, 4th Driven
Gear, 5th driven
Fork, gear shift
fork, gear shift
Fork, gear shift
Fork, gear shift
Shaft, gear shift
Shaft, gear shift
cam, gear shift
plate, gear shift
circlip
gasket, cylinder
o ring, inspection
plug, cylinder H
O ring
Gasket cyl
gasket magneto
gasket,clutch
B1 12X28X8 bear
circlip
ring set, piston
cr shaft rh oil
gasket tensione
filter, engine
suzuki oil 10w40
Kev high perf clutch disc set

This is all the parts needed to do the rebuild.
Definitely find a used motor. IMO All that $$ and then the time to put it together. Nevermind if one item goes on backorder. You're losing daylight. (riding time)
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:51 AM   #74652
Foot dragger
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Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoPaRider View Post
I'm sure this has been asked and answered here before, but since the air box mod has been brought up and I'm deciding whether to do the air box mod or not, what are the pros and cons to doing so and has anyone wished they hadn't done the mod afterwards?

Jeff

'09 DR650SE
Many dont touch the airbox and just ride the bike,mine is all stock and a plug check shows a sparkplug with just the right color,not horribly lean as many think it is. I ride in thick dust from time to time,and have gone through creeks where I was really glad I hadnt cut the airbox up.(muffler under water)
Stock jetting is pretty darn handy if you ride up to 10,000' elevation,the bike still runs good.
Jetting a DR in to gain power and run perfect at sea level or low elevation can back fire and blow black smoke when its ridden up high.
A loud muffler and cut up airbox can often feel like more power,often a dyno doesnt agree. I dont want to listen to a droning loud exhaust so I leave it alone.

Having said that,guys love to hack and cut and change their bikes and always will.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:55 AM   #74653
Foot dragger
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rand0mlychrisUK View Post
Hi guys,
Any thoughts on the pre-'96 vs post-'96 battle?
Looking at a '93rseu here, fairing and all, just wondered...

Cheers,
Chris
You might want to stay with the 96 and up,the older ones are about 50lbs heavier and are a solid step backwards. Even a 96 and up is 80's technology for the most part.
Lots of aftermarket stuff for 96 and newer,not so much for the old ones.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:00 AM   #74654
Foot dragger
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Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
Oddometer: 12,774
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Obard:
Use a ratchet strap across the seat to get the 3 points aligned like BD's diagram. Pad the seat so the strap doesn't cut the seat cover. The bike will roll with the suspension pulled down (strapped), so check the tightness in several places.

When you're doing this, the chain slack will NOT be 1.2"-1.8". You just want free movement (no binding). And too loose is better than too tight!!

Be careful, as the kickstand might be too long and tip the bike over on the right side.

Like this (my shock is disconnected in this pic, don't pull it down this far).

Better pic, pulled down too far:
You can also follow Suzuki's instructions for setting chain slack at rest,it works great. Certain amount of slack when sitting on the sidestand and its done.
If theres tight spots like the OEM chain had on mine it will be noticeable going down the road.
Too tight is way worse then slightly loose on chains,its why guys rip the upper roller off the frame.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:56 AM   #74655
rspratley
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Portugal
Oddometer: 18
Center stand

Does anyone know if the center stand for a dr pre 96 (old model) fits in a 96 dr650 (new model).
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