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Old 03-11-2013, 02:04 PM   #74641
TeeVee
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Miami/Managua
Oddometer: 705
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Welcome back T

First, get rid of any fuel that was in the bike when you put it away. Put SeaFoam or StarTron in the new fuel.
Next get a new pilot jet. Don't waste your time trying to save the $4 by attempting to clean the old one.

Lastly service the air cleaner.

Ride
thanks Rusty. i'm concerned about it blowing smoke though and don't think that is a fouled carb issue. i took the carb off and it was pretty clean--no crap in the bowl. one person has said it could be valve guide gaskets. where is this on the fiche?
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:13 PM   #74642
Rusty Rocket
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Location: Northcentral CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeVee View Post
thanks Rusty. i'm concerned about it blowing smoke though and don't think that is a fouled carb issue. i took the carb off and it was pretty clean--no crap in the bowl. one person has said it could be valve guide gaskets. where is this on the fiche?
Mine smokes on start some times. I wonder if it is gas that has gotten "old". After it warms up no more for the rest of the day.

I have 20K miles on mine and it could be valves seals, but the PO was a Suzuki mechanic and he did a piston and rings and might have done some work on the head, so I just deal with it. It isn't every time and it really doesn't bother me because I had 2 strokes for the first 40 years of riding.
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:25 PM   #74643
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeVee View Post
thanks Rusty. i'm concerned about it blowing smoke though and don't think that is a fouled carb issue. i took the carb off and it was pretty clean--no crap in the bowl. one person has said it could be valve guide gaskets. where is this on the fiche?
Valve quide seals is more accurate.

#22
http://www.bikebandit.com/2004-suzuk...5873#sch502856
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:51 PM   #74644
btweaver13
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Joined the Club

Took the plunge and picked up a nicely maintained 2003 over the weekend. Came with a Pro Circuit pipe and Stage II (?) jet kit, and she runs perfectly, with the occasional backfire on decelleration. Cosmetically it's very nice, with the only real detriment some corrosion on specific metal bits due to the bike sharing a garage with pool chemicals & chlorine. Nothing a dremel and sander won't fix.

Sunday was spent installing Pro Taper "YZ High" bars and Acerbis handguards. The stock levers were castrated (balls sawed off), which resulted in a nice, clean look. The Pro Tapers completely change the bike's handling characteristics for the better. My MX/off-road background made this change mandatory, and I'm not sure how anyone can effectively countersteer with those stockers. BTW, what genius at Suzuki came up with the idea of cementing the stock grips (also horrible) onto the throttle tube?

Pic below. I'm 150lbs in my birthday suit, so the suspension works for now. Off-roading will see only semi-paved/dirt/jeep trails. There's a trip from north of Fort Worth to Lake Travis (west of Austin) slated for this weekend which will cover about 40 miles of non-paved surfaces. It's a nice first date.

I looked at KLR (too street), the XR (too dirt), and BMW/KTM/Husky (too $$$). The DR may not top any individual chart, but it's a top 3 in all categories, with tremendous reliability and surprising agility. Looking forward to wasting many hours on advrider.com and canvasing the landscape on the big thumper.



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Old 03-11-2013, 03:04 PM   #74645
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
does the added fuel with a raised needle (more fuel) out weight the increased spring preload (less fuel) as people have reported so.
If the preload is in the form of a shimmed needle clip, then the reduction in slide height for a given intersection of throttle position and rpm means that the corresponding portion of richness added came from having reduced the air flow. There will not be less fuel.

If the preload is not in the form of a shimmed needle clip, then both the slide and the needle will be lower, which may richen, lean or do nothing to the mixture for a given intersection of throttle position and rpm depending on whether having restricted the air flow or having lowered the needle is an overriding factor, or whether they even out. If having lowered the slide causes restriction, then there will be an HP loss as a consequence unless the mixture was grossly rich beforehand and having corrected that outweighs the detrimental effects of the restriction, or if the airflow is limited by rpm rather than by slide position (One of these will be the case when installing a stiffer spring to remedy low rpm richness caused by installing a very large main jet to compensate for airbox mods).

Regards,

Derek

motolab screwed with this post 03-11-2013 at 03:09 PM
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:02 PM   #74646
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoPaRider View Post
I'm sure this has been asked and answered here before, but since the air box mod has been brought up and I'm deciding whether to do the air box mod or not, what are the pros and cons to doing so and has anyone wished they hadn't done the mod afterwards?

Jeff

'09 DR650SE
Cutting open the Air Box top per the Jesse template was one of the best FREE mods I've made on my DR. Big jump in power, throttle response.
Like flicking a switch!

Positives:
1. More power.
2. Better throttle response if jetting is correct.
3. MPG can match stock if jetting and set up are correct.

Negatives:
1. A few riders have complained of extra intake "Honk" from the Carb, now heard with open Air Box. Not an issue for most.
2. In super dusty conditions, Air Filter will get dirty more quickly.
3. If doing super deep river crossings, you've lost an inch or two before water will enter Air Box. (Water above seat)
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:35 PM   #74647
BergDonk
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Joined: Nov 2010
Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
Oddometer: 2,595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
First off, I think I'm due for a new chain, but the PO put an aftermarket sprocket to ride the highway better, and I have no idea what size chain to buy. That's not the main issue though.

I did a chain adjustment this weekend, and now the chain is binding up, for lack of a better term. In neutral, it won't spin freely for a whole rotation, but instead stops. I can hear what sounds like links binding at slow speeds. When measuring adjustment distances horizontally below the swingarm, there is clearly a tight spot and a looser spot. I'll be adjusting again before I ride it, but I wanted to bounce this off ya'll in the meantime.

Oh yeah, I just replaced the cotter pin rear nut with the self locker.
Always adjust the chain at its tightest spot. And a chain with significant tight spots is likely due for replacement. If the tight spot moves, then its caused by an out of round sprocket.

Do you chain adjustment with all 3 pivot points in line, ie cs shaft, swing arm and rear axle.

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Old 03-11-2013, 06:36 PM   #74648
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Obard:
Use a ratchet strap across the seat to get the 3 points aligned like BD's diagram. Pad the seat so the strap doesn't cut the seat cover. The bike will roll with the suspension pulled down (strapped), so check the tightness in several places.

When you're doing this, the chain slack will NOT be 1.2"-1.8". You just want free movement (no binding). And too loose is better than too tight!!

Be careful, as the kickstand might be too long and tip the bike over on the right side.

Like this (my shock is disconnected in this pic, don't pull it down this far).

Better pic, pulled down too far:
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2004 DR650: 57,097 miles of

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

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Old 03-11-2013, 06:59 PM   #74649
DR650DG
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Replace engine on 97 DR650se

My story is this...
I bought a very clean 97 you know what a year-or-so back. On a recent ride over pavement, the bike wasn't able to shift up past 2nd, so I took my bike in. After the shop completely disassembled my engine, they told me there was significant damage in the transmission and all sorts of gears and such need to be replaced. The rebuild was going to cost 2400 dollars, which was the price I bought it for. Damn!
I have the bike in my side yard and the engine is dismantled. I thought the rebuild would be challenging, yet good experience for engine knowledge with a bike I was in love with. Then I got smart and realized I ought to simply find a used engine and keep it simple. I will definitely hold onto the engine and consider the rebuild this summer as a project especially if I can find some gear heads to help. The bottom line is this...
I need an engine. I live in Chico Ca. What is a good price to pay? any help on this thread would be awesome as the days are getting warmer and the bike is way out without the power yo!
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:49 PM   #74650
ER70S-2
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DR650DG:
Welcome to the site. Sorry to hear the diagnosis on your bike.

Fill in your location (profile). Maybe there's someone near that can help.

Here's a link, lots of pertinent photos. Maybe these guys (us) can talk you thru the repairs. At least you'll know what you'll have to do for a repair.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=636386
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2004 DR650: 57,097 miles of

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:59 PM   #74651
Rob.G
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
Oddometer: 1,957
Quote:
Originally Posted by DR650DG View Post
My story is this...
I bought a very clean 97 you know what a year-or-so back. On a recent ride over pavement, the bike wasn't able to shift up past 2nd, so I took my bike in. After the shop completely disassembled my engine, they told me there was significant damage in the transmission and all sorts of gears and such need to be replaced. The rebuild was going to cost 2400 dollars, which was the price I bought it for. Damn!
I have the bike in my side yard and the engine is dismantled. I thought the rebuild would be challenging, yet good experience for engine knowledge with a bike I was in love with. Then I got smart and realized I ought to simply find a used engine and keep it simple. I will definitely hold onto the engine and consider the rebuild this summer as a project especially if I can find some gear heads to help. The bottom line is this...
I need an engine. I live in Chico Ca. What is a good price to pay? any help on this thread would be awesome as the days are getting warmer and the bike is way out without the power yo!
If I still lived in Reno, I'd ride over the hill and help you rebuild it. It's not that hard. But if you want to go the used engine route, I'm thinking $800-1000 is about right for a used motor. I think I've seen some on eBay for around that price.

I wonder if you had an NSU screw come out and jam things up... I'd love to see inside the thing and see what all is supposedly damaged according to that shop.

Rob
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:07 PM   #74652
shu
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 902
DR650 in Mexico

Rode up a mountain near Galeana MX yesterday. Dirt road turned to a heavy duty hand laid rock/cobblestone road for 15 miles to the top. This road just hammered us relentlessly. No problems for the DR but the GS 1150 shock is now leaking. We'll have to do something about that.




The last few hairpins the DR was feeling kind of weak, not normal. When I got to the top and looked at my GPS altimeter: 12,100 feet! Suriprised me- no wonder I was down on power.






.............shu
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:22 PM   #74653
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Keep 'em coming Shu. Some of us rarely get out of our home state.

At 12,100 feet; I'm a little down on power.

Izzat an air shock on the GS giving you/him trouble?

AND: what suspension work on your DR (sorry I don't remember)? I have emulators and a Cogent shock; after years of stock Japanese suspension; I cannot believe the transformation these improvements make on the DR.

Keep the pics and reports a commin', some of us look forward to them.
__________________
2004 DR650: 57,097 miles of

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:25 PM   #74654
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Rode up a mountain near Galeana MX yesterday. Dirt road turned to a heavy duty hand laid rock/cobblestone road for 15 miles to the top. This road just hammered us relentlessly. No problems for the DR but the GS 1150 shock is now leaking. We'll have to do something about that..............shu
Ola' compadres! ?Como estais todos?

Many BMW dealers have stock GS shocks laying around ... and sell for cheap ... as so many GS owners go to Ohlins or other aftermarket shock. Most don't want the stock WP units.

The stock WP on the GS is crap. My local BMW dealer was going out of business about 3 years ago ... he had a HUGE PILE of those WP GS shocks. NO ONE wanted them ... even at $20 ea. They ended up in the dumpster. Most were new or near new.

I'd go on line and snag a nice used one. Since you guys are just South of the Border, should not be too much of a PITA. Or ... go to BMW in Guadalajara ... they know a guy who rebuilds shocks there ... but that won't be cheap ... or convenient.

Suerte!
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:31 PM   #74655
Escaped
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Location: Northern California
Oddometer: 392
Congratulation on 2003 DR

Don't worry about the popping on deceleration - normal and will not hurt anything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by btweaver13 View Post
Took the plunge and picked up a nicely maintained 2003 over the weekend. Came with a Pro Circuit pipe and Stage II (?) jet kit, and she runs perfectly, with the occasional backfire on decelleration. Cosmetically it's very nice, with the only real detriment some corrosion on specific metal bits due to the bike sharing a garage with pool chemicals & chlorine. Nothing a dremel and sander won't fix.

Sunday was spent installing Pro Taper "YZ High" bars and Acerbis handguards. The stock levers were castrated (balls sawed off), which resulted in a nice, clean look. The Pro Tapers completely change the bike's handling characteristics for the better. My MX/off-road background made this change mandatory, and I'm not sure how anyone can effectively countersteer with those stockers. BTW, what genius at Suzuki came up with the idea of cementing the stock grips (also horrible) onto the throttle tube?

Pic below. I'm 150lbs in my birthday suit, so the suspension works for now. Off-roading will see only semi-paved/dirt/jeep trails. There's a trip from north of Fort Worth to Lake Travis (west of Austin) slated for this weekend which will cover about 40 miles of non-paved surfaces. It's a nice first date.

I looked at KLR (too street), the XR (too dirt), and BMW/KTM/Husky (too $$$). The DR may not top any individual chart, but it's a top 3 in all categories, with tremendous reliability and surprising agility. Looking forward to wasting many hours on advrider.com and canvasing the landscape on the big thumper.



Weave
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