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Old 03-15-2013, 09:45 AM   #74776
KJD19892
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Location: Paris Landing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
KLX450 light and surround with an HID. Complement it with a YZ450F front fender.
I'm liking that look. How much modifying has to be done to make that work??
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:12 AM   #74777
SoPaRider
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Thanks TrophyHunter and rpet, that's what I needed to know.

Jeff

'09 DR650SE (It's white)
'96 DR350/441SET (It's white too!)
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:17 AM   #74778
mike1952
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Location: north of ann arbor michigan
Oddometer: 1,114
michelin

anyone using the T63 dual sport tire? I have Perelli AT90s on now and looking for something more aggresive. I ride packed dirt and gravel as well as some loose gravel with pavement in between.
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:19 AM   #74779
Tex76
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Location: Plano, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
There's a better way of mounting those aux lights.





Just get a longer bolt and a couple of spacers from Home Depot and run them into the lower of the two fork bolts.

I used to have little brackets that attached to those same bolts, but after two years, the vibration broke one clean off and the other one was cracked, so I removed them and came up with this solution. Now they're totally solid.

As for performance, they're outstanding. And at 10W each, they don't take much power. Aim the right and oncoming cars RARELY have an issue, though cars ahead of you will hate you. All the better -- they tend to get out of the way quicker.

Rob
Perfect, that puts them in the best position to not break in a fall too. Thanks Rob
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Old 03-15-2013, 10:41 AM   #74780
acesandeights
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Location: So. Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike1952 View Post
anyone using the T63 dual sport tire? I have Perelli AT90s on now and looking for something more aggresive. I ride packed dirt and gravel as well as some loose gravel with pavement in between.
I have a T63 rear tire in my garage waiting for my Pirelli MT21 to wear out. Buddy of mine runs the T63 front and rear and likes it. It was going to be my tire of choice instead of the MT21 but a pair of them got stolen out of my truck and I couldn't find another T63 so I bought the MT21. I haven't had a chance to run them myself, but from what I hear, they are a very good choice.
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:20 AM   #74781
rpet
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drriders is dead. anyone know what's up?
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:33 AM   #74782
rspratley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob.G View Post
There's a better way of mounting those aux lights.

Just get a longer bolt and a couple of spacers from Home Depot and run them into the lower of the two fork bolts.

I used to have little brackets that attached to those same bolts, but after two years, the vibration broke one clean off and the other one was cracked, so I removed them and came up with this solution. Now they're totally solid.

As for performance, they're outstanding. And at 10W each, they don't take much power. Aim the right and oncoming cars RARELY have an issue, though cars ahead of you will hate you. All the better -- they tend to get out of the way quicker.

Rob
I have to test mine and see if the position is ok or needs to be changed
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:54 AM   #74783
joefromsf
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Location: San Francisco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpet View Post
drriders is dead. anyone know what's up?
Fine now.
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:16 PM   #74784
Kommando
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Location: Spacecoaster FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJD19892 View Post
I'm liking that look. How much modifying has to be done to make that work??
Check out this thread.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...43828540,d.eWU
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:21 PM   #74785
MeterPig
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Location: Parker, Colorado...
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This might have been mentioned already....

Pro cycle dropped their price on warp 9 levers to 35 each down from 74. Not a bad deal at all.

Now, I am waiting for a price drop on the chain guides.
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:44 PM   #74786
rpet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
This might have been mentioned already....

Pro cycle dropped their price on warp 9 levers to 35 each down from 74. Not a bad deal at all.

Now, I am waiting for a price drop on the chain guides.
looking forward to the shorty version of those levers
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'76 Xl250 '04 XR250R '09 DR650 '10 TR450
Ride The West - OBDR, CDR & western TAT - July 2013
Instagram with plenty of bike pics.
Read my homie's underway Africa trip RR - Round Africa with a Surfboard
WTB: Clarke tank for DR650 for cheap - any color but blue.
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:19 PM   #74787
LucasLeader
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Location: Chico, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike1952 View Post
anyone using the T63 dual sport tire? I have Perelli AT90s on now and looking for something more aggresive. I ride packed dirt and gravel as well as some loose gravel with pavement in between.
I've been running a T63 rear for a while now. I ditched it in favor of a Kenda Trackmaster II which was much better off road, but switched back to the T63 after wearing out the Trackmaster. The T63 does well enough on gravel and hard pack (forest roads) but is not very good for trails or real off road. It is lasting a long time though.
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Old 03-15-2013, 05:20 PM   #74788
PPCLI-Jim
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Location: Victoria BC where I ride year round.
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I just had shipped in a MITAS brand E-09 Dakar for my rear, these are the rebranded Barum tires. They last forever and while heavy, give that back in tire life and get decent grab also.
This is a shop that gets them for me up here in Canada, along with a description of the various types.

http://www.mx1canada.com/mitas-adven...-safari-tires/
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:29 PM   #74789
YnotJP?
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KJD19892, For what to do regarding the side stand and clutch switches look at Post 2299 back on Page 154.
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:30 PM   #74790
Rusty Rocket
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worth quoting for everyone to see
Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Repost from the Yahoogroup by PeteC:

There is more to bypassing the starter/side stand interlock system
than just bypassing the clutch switch & jumping the side stand switch
wires. There are other components in the system you want to
eliminate so they will not be a problem if they are left in & fail
later. Suzuki's system on the DR650 is pretty simple compared to
some others. The following components are what is used in the
system: The clutch lever switch, side stand switch, neutral switch,
side stand relay & a double diode set for the side stand relay &
neutral light. The engine kill switch is also involved in it. The
system works by controlling weather or not there is 12 volts supplied
to the CDI unit (capacitive discharge ignition unit), the CDI unit
needs 12V to operate. The 12V comes from the side stand relay to the
ignition kill switch & then to the CDI unit. The 12V power to the
starter solenoid through the clutch lever switch also comes off the
ignition kill switch, that's why the starter won't work if the kill
switch is pushed in or the side stand is down with the bike in gear.
The 12V is supplied to the ignition kill switch when the side stand
relay is energized. The side stand switch & the neutral switch
control weather or not the side stand relay is energized by providing
or not providing a ground for the side stand relay's operating coil.
If there is no ground the relay is not energized. The ground is
provided when the side stand is up, side stand switch is closed, or
if the transmission is in neutral & the neutral switch is closed.
The neutral switch also operates the neutral light & that is the
reason for the 2 diode set, to keep the two functions separated.

The reason you don't want to just cut & splice the wires from the
side stand switch is that you will be leaving the side stand relay in
place & that is just something that can fail leaving you with a bike
that won't start. To do the bypass eliminating what is not needed do
the following: Unscrew the side stand switch & disconnect it at its
plug located in the area behind the gas tank. No need to cut any
wires. Next go to the side stand relay located on a post on the
frame just to the left of the CDI unit just in back of the battery &
remove it. This is where you make the connection that bypasses the
relay & permanently provides the 12V to the ignition kill switch.
There are 4 wires going into the connector for the side stand switch,
2 orange, one green & one orange with black tracer. You want to make
a jumper that connects one of the orange wires to the orange with
black tracer. This will require getting small male connectors or as
I did make a bridge connector from sheet aluminum (thin like trailer
aluminum) that you plug in the connector. Securely tape the
connector so it can't short out. I also removed the 2-diode set that
controls the neutral light. You don't need to do this; if the diode
failed you just wouldn't have a neutral light. The diode set is
plugged into a connector located in the area just behind the gas
tank. Make a jumper that connects the blue wire (from the neutral
light) to the blue with black tracer wire (to the neutral switch).
Again here I made a jumper out of sheet aluminum. Securely tape the
connector so it can't short out. To eliminate the clutch switch just
go to where the clutch switch wires connect to the bikes wiring
harness behind the headlight fairing. Disconnect the wires & plug
the harness side wires together (male to female connectors). You now
have bypassed the starter/side stand safety switch system eliminating
the items that are not needed. Remember you now can start the engine
with it in gear & the clutch engaged & you can drive off with the
side stand down, both of which could get you hurt or killed so do
this at your own risk.

PeteC

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