ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-17-2013, 08:04 PM   #74911
JagLite
Studly Adventurer
 
JagLite's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Anchorage Alaska
Oddometer: 793
Eek What's in there?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Obard View Post
Seems to be just off idle, maybe 1/8 or 1/6. The rebuild was the ProCycle refresh kit, o rings, jets and needles, allen head bolts.
Just to clarify, what EXACTLY is in your carb?
Is it the stock carb rebuild kit?
Is it the PC "jet kit" that comes with an adjustable needle?
Or some combination of the stock and not stock?

This is your fist time working on the carb?
If so, are you positive you put it together correctly?
The experts need to know what you have to work with to recommend changes to try.

Some have missed the tiny o-ring that goes in the cap for the vacuum line to the petcock. Others have put them together with the diaphragm pinched. It is not difficult, but it is easy to miss an important step and until that is corrected you will never be able to tune it properly. It is also very good to learn how to do it yourself!

Years ago on a race bike I cleaned and adjusted the carb, put it back together, installed it on the bike, loaded it on the trailer, and drove out to the desert to ride with friends. Stupid bike wouldn't start, I was sure it was electrical since I had just cleaned the carb. After an hour of testing and getting frustrated I finally pulled the carb off and... THEN I discover I forgot to install the main jet.
__________________
Attitude ~
The difference between
Ordeal and Adventure
James
JagLite is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2013, 08:05 PM   #74912
Mambo Dave
Backyard Adventurer
 
Mambo Dave's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Pompano Beach, FL
Oddometer: 3,848
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Skip the bigger rotor and race pads for now. Get some pads that will allow you to commute. When you have the cash, get some OEM pads and braided stainless hoses. Make sure your rotors are clean and in good shape. The braided stainless hoses, especially up front, will improve feel and power of your brakes.

Take your signals off for dirt. Leave them at home. You can probably get by with some 4" or 8" flexible LED adhesive strips on your handguards and the extreme rear and sides of your rear fender...Amber for the front and rear. I found them at Autozone and/or Advance Auto. They're bright enough to see in daylight, even from an angle. I use them as marker lights too...Amber for the front and red for the rear. Swap in an LED-compatible flasher unit. Crimp/solder some bullet connectors on the wires for the LED strips. Cycle Gear sells adapters to plug bullet connectors right into your stock DR harness, so you don't have to cut/splice on the bike. Unplug the strips and leave them stuck in place, then reinstall the stock signals when you get back home, if you want to stay 50-state legal. Zip-tie any extra wire length away from heat and moving things. Almost nobody seems to use signals consistently in FL anyway, so I doubt the cops would give you a hard time for such a modification here if you were to actually use them like I do. They might just be shocked and awed to see the pretty colors go flashy-flashy.

Avoid any shade of blue. The po-po gets a little touchy about that color.
LOL, Thanks Commando!

Wish I had read this earlier, but just as you said - it was important to have brakes for commuting immediately, so I called up Cycle Gear and... they were OPEN!

On a Sunday when my supposedly "real" motorcycle store - Riva Motorsports / Dealership - is closed on Sundays.

They confirmed they had Galfger brake pads in stock, and while I do realize that many brake pads aren't even as good as the stock ones, these Galfers seem just like stock (not better, and I haven't tried them in the rain yet, but they're fine), and they were available.

I threw the brake back together, rode over (carefully) and then installed the pads right there in Cycle Gear's parking lot. Bedded in the pads there in a huge and nearly empty parking lot, then rode the 14 miles home.

Again, had I read what you just posted I would have picked up the wiring connectors as well, but thank's a ton.

I am not from Florida, so I do use my turn signals a lot (and rely on them as a safety factor), so I can't really go for LED strips on the rear if they don't stick out and away from the bike. LED strips on the front may work if they're bright enough.
__________________
"After reading through this thread I've come to the conclusion
that more people cruise the internet looking for reasons why
X bike won't work in Y scenario rather than actually riding
their motorcycles
." --
RyanR
Mambo Dave is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2013, 08:14 PM   #74913
8gv
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: North central CT
Oddometer: 2,119
Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
>2003 is about it.

98-99 had the solid idler gear.
96-2003 had the fibre base gasket.
96-97 had purple frames.

There is a California model with all the easily removable crap.
Thanks!
8gv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2013, 08:46 PM   #74914
motolab
Beastly Adventurer
 
motolab's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 1,952
Quote:
Originally Posted by wee-twin View Post
In ADV Search: BST-40 bible by Laramie lc4
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184.

Regards,

Derek
motolab is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 03:06 AM   #74915
Load Clear
Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Center of the Rez, AZ
Oddometer: 32
Farkle Questions

Hey All:

I am about to grab a Acerbis 5.3 tank. (The gray one at a $30 premium via Procycle). Even for the remoteness of Northeast Arizona/Southern Utah. The Safari tank just seems too big and I would probably only want it <1% of the time.

Questions:

–Is it wiser to get the tank first then find a seat to fit it or vice versa?
–Advice on a bash plate? I saw one on here a while back that seemed to cause damage itself, but I didn’t find it again w/ search. Is it a huge pain to come back later and add a center stand?
–I also think I want the wolfman gen 2 rack and soft panniers. I like that I could possibly add hard cases later (though, the website seemed to say only those that have NOT been drilled already)
–I’m going to add a couple of aux lights and an H4 bulb for now but eventually want to do a light mod – Buell or one of those 8 inch rounds.
Thanks
Load Clear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 05:13 AM   #74916
Skidmarkart
Repeat Recidivist
 
Skidmarkart's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Durham NC, The Old Durty
Oddometer: 128
Any one switch to a street tire and find it looks TINY on their bike?

I picked up a new set of tires over the weekend. I was going for an 80/20 tire because I ride mostly street. Well, the shop called and said they didn't have the tire we had discussed in stock, but they had another very similar tire. I told them to go ahead and mount it, when I picked the bike up - I didn't inspect it as well as I should have (the Tarheels were playing in 10 minutes, I had to get home for the game!).

Anyway, when I when out to check it out later, I realized the tire looks TINY on my bike. It's a 130/70-17 Shinko 712... seems to be a pretty common tire from my readings, but it looks like hell. Like a tiny 250 street bike tire with loads of room all around it, on the swing-arm, chain, etc. I am not sure I want to ride it for 3000 miles.

Another question - What is the proper size for a DR650 for dual sport... I think a 140/90-17 would be a lot closer. I am thinking of taking it back to the shop and getting them change it out to another tire.
Skidmarkart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 05:19 AM   #74917
Kommando
Grumpy Young Man
 
Kommando's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Spacecoaster FL
Oddometer: 6,088
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
Any one switch to a street tire and find it looks TINY on their bike?

I picked up a new set of tires over the weekend. I was going for an 80/20 tire because I ride mostly street. Well, the shop called and said they didn't have the tire we had discussed in stock, but they had another very similar tire. I told them to go ahead and mount it, when I picked the bike up - I didn't inspect it as well as I should have (the Tarheels were playing in 10 minutes, I had to get home for the game!).

Anyway, when I when out to check it out later, I realized the tire looks TINY on my bike. It's a 130/70-17 Shinko 712... seems to be a pretty common tire from my readings, but it looks like hell. Like a tiny 250 street bike tire with loads of room all around it, on the swing-arm, chain, etc. I am not sure I want to ride it for 3000 miles.

Another question - What is the proper size for a DR650 for dual sport... I think a 140/90-17 would be a lot closer. I am thinking of taking it back to the shop and getting them change it out to another tire.
www.motorcycle-superstore.com

Order what you want and install it yourself. 3 tire levers, baby powder, a Bead Buddy, and a stem-fishing tool work great.
Kommando is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 05:20 AM   #74918
TrophyHunter
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: San Diego
Oddometer: 1,614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Load Clear View Post
The Safari tank just seems too big and I would probably only want it <1% of the time.

Questions:

1. –Is it wiser to get the tank first then find a seat to fit it or vice versa?
2. –Advice on a bash plate? I saw one on here a while back that seemed to cause damage itself, but I didn’t find it again w/ search.
3. Is it a huge pain to come back later and add a center stand?
4. –I also think I want the wolfman gen 2 rack and soft panniers. I like that I could possibly add hard cases later (though, the website seemed to say only those that have NOT been drilled already)
5. –I’m going to add a couple of aux lights and an H4 bulb for now but eventually want to do a light mod – Buell or one of those 8 inch rounds.
Thanks
Safari - same feeling. For the riding I do, the IMS has been plenty. Even 140 miles thru the desert won't run me dry. I did get a Rotopax kit for my Gen II racks as a safety net/convenience item.

1. Do the research, buy appropriately. PC has answered that pretty well on their site - helpful info.

2. Waiting for comments. I've adjusted mine to avoid problems but interested.

3. Hmmmm

4. WM - many miles have been put on these bags and their customer service is great. I didn't see the "drilled" comment on their site but it might just mean the old holes may not line up with the hard bag mounts on the Gen II racks...?

5. Did the H4 HID - worth it IMO. Looking at aux lights too but don't plan on much remote night riding so might go with a helmet light or detachable "back up" in case the main gets broken or fails.

Happy shopping!
__________________
www.dualsportmoto.com
2005 DR650 2003 DRZ-250
2013 HD Road King

"It's a small amount of gas, but it represents a long walk" My Dad...
TrophyHunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 06:10 AM   #74919
acap650
acap650
 
acap650's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 481
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidmarkart View Post
Any one switch to a street tire and find it looks TINY on their bike?

I picked up a new set of tires over the weekend. I was going for an 80/20 tire because I ride mostly street. Well, the shop called and said they didn't have the tire we had discussed in stock, but they had another very similar tire. I told them to go ahead and mount it, when I picked the bike up - I didn't inspect it as well as I should have (the Tarheels were playing in 10 minutes, I had to get home for the game!).

Anyway, when I when out to check it out later, I realized the tire looks TINY on my bike. It's a 130/70-17 Shinko 712... seems to be a pretty common tire from my readings, but it looks like hell. Like a tiny 250 street bike tire with loads of room all around it, on the swing-arm, chain, etc. I am not sure I want to ride it for 3000 miles.

Another question - What is the proper size for a DR650 for dual sport... I think a 140/90-17 would be a lot closer. I am thinking of taking it back to the shop and getting them change it out to another tire.
A 130 rear is already one size over stock and may be the limit for the rear rim width. A 140 will probably fit on the rim and in the swingarm but the tread area will wrap around the side and be practically unuseable (unless you lean the bike almost parallel to the ground). You will have huge chicken strips no matter how aggressively you corner - it's just not cool. If you want a bigger tire get a wider rim - the sumo rims that Procycle sells take a 150 rear.
acap650 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 06:35 AM   #74920
Bronco638
Nobody Home
 
Bronco638's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Itasca, IL
Oddometer: 3,312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave
They confirmed they had Galfger brake pads in stock, and while I do realize that many brake pads aren't even as good as the stock ones, these Galfers seem just like stock (not better, and I haven't tried them in the rain yet, but they're fine), and they were available.

I threw the brake back together, rode over (carefully) and then installed the pads right there in Cycle Gear's parking lot. Bedded in the pads there in a huge and nearly empty parking lot, then rode the 14 miles home.
M-Dave -

Based on those pictures, you went right down to the base plate (and even into it some). Did you check the rotors for minimum thickness (or damage)?
__________________
There are some simple thruths......and dogs know what they are - Joseph Duemer

Andy holds the lead. And he will, all the way to the Highway. Today is his day.
Bronco638 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 06:39 AM   #74921
Skidmarkart
Repeat Recidivist
 
Skidmarkart's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Durham NC, The Old Durty
Oddometer: 128
Hmmm... that's odd, I have seen DR's with much larger street or 80/20 tires with the stock rims. I'd love to get a set of Excels, but that is a serious investment. Maybe it is the "ratio" that makes them look so small - they are 70 (what the hell is that number anyway? a percentage? a measurement?). Do you know if there is a max ratio for the stock DR? When I was looking at tires, I thought I saw some people running a 90.
Skidmarkart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 06:43 AM   #74922
Skidmarkart
Repeat Recidivist
 
Skidmarkart's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Durham NC, The Old Durty
Oddometer: 128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
www.motorcycle-superstore.com

Order what you want and install it yourself. 3 tire levers, baby powder, a Bead Buddy, and a stem-fishing tool work great.
Yeah - your right about that. I would have gotten a cheaper tire, paid nothing for labor, and not be in this situation of hating my new tire. I was paying for convenience, but it isn't really convenient now is it?

I thought about it, but I had questions - How do you balance, if you do it yourself?
Skidmarkart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 06:55 AM   #74923
SCExpat
Ex-expat
 
SCExpat's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Caldwell, ID
Oddometer: 536
Quote:
Originally Posted by barko1 View Post
For 70 mph I wouldn't think that mileage isn't off much. Looks like nice terrain, where is it? Nice pic. The Corbin is be design hard foam and takes some breaking in. I have one and like it. Think about opening the airbox and a freer exhaust to make it a bit sportie or the big bore r
I am currently.....happy with the power and more interested in the range and getting good gas mileage so I want to keep it close to stock. Maybe the Hayabusa can and snorkel removal.

The pic is of Succor Creek, OR. There is hundreds of miles of dirt roads/2 track to explore there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Welcome.

I got my Corbin in 2004, it's still hard as a board. It has broken in a little. But I did five consecutive 300 mile days on it last summer. Its wide which helps spread the contact area better than a narrower seat. The width does show up at stops and when standing.

If you dedide to replace it with another aftermarket seat, do your homework; some of them are as 'firm' as the Corbin.

I get better mileage riding the twisties (2nd thru 4th) in the foothills than I do on the 60+ mph rides.

Beware the cheap tubeless conversion, someone recently tried to do that. He took his time, cleaned everything well, ect. But there was always a leaking spoke. Since he was trying to improve his reliability, he decided to stay with tubes. There's a chance for a leak at every spoke, that wouldn't make me very comfortable. I believe it was Planemanx15, if you want to look back thru his posts.
Good to know that the hard Corbin is the way it should be. It is comfortable when riding and only the low bars bother me when standing. Maybe a local shop can put a little gel layer on it or I will just get used to it.

I searched for Planemanx15 tubeless conversion and it seems like it went well.....unless I missed a post. Just hate the idea of having to prop up the bike and remove the wheel to fix a flat. BTDT.....one too many times. I'll post up how it goes.
SCExpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 07:16 AM   #74924
kbuckey
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Lookout Mountain - above Golden, CO
Oddometer: 663
Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
At 17K miles, the slide guide and as a result the emulsion tube are likely to be worn out. Worn emulsion tubes cause low rpm richness problems.

Regards,

Derek
Hmm. I guess I'll fess up . My bike has just under 64000 miles on it and, well, er, the carb has never been opened up. Yeah, nothing. Dead stock. Including muffler, air box, filter. Yeah, it's always had some issues - issues which change depending on whether I'm riding at sea level or at over 10,000 feet. But all in all it runs pretty good.

Lately I've noticed the gas mileage has gone up a bit, can't figure that one out, maybe it's finally broken in?

Sooooo, being firmly in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school, I've just left it alone. But if I did open the carb up and completely rebuilt it, I know I wouldn't want to mess with it much. What stock parts should I replace with stock, and what with aftermarket? Seems like the overseas needle is one change, but then I'm going to want to tinker with it and I fear the nose of the camel is coming under the tent!
kbuckey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2013, 07:34 AM   #74925
sandwash
Beastly Adventurer
 
sandwash's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Flagstaff Az
Oddometer: 1,075
Street tires
__________________
97dr650 FCR-MX pumper,plus other goodies
sandwash is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 10:25 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014