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Old 03-19-2013, 07:22 PM   #74956
sandwash
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39 FCR-MX fits the intake boot on the motor side. Mostly off road rider,but I regularly get 46-48 mpg. Throttle twist (R1 or R6 tube) doesn't help,but it sure spins up fast.For me the fun factor and performance out weighs the mileage drop.I was running a 14/45 combo,got used to that and now I am running 15/43.Throttle control when going through the nasty stuff works wonders.No troubles since the install(3-4 years)
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:34 PM   #74957
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by sandwash View Post
39 FCR-MX fits the intake boot on the motor side. Mostly off road rider,but I regularly get 46-48 mpg. Throttle twist (R1 or R6 tube) doesn't help,but it sure spins up fast.For me the fun factor and performance out weighs the mileage drop.I was running a 14/45 combo,got used to that and now I am running 15/43.Throttle control when going through the nasty stuff works wonders.No troubles since the install(3-4 years)
Excellent! If you're getting 46 to 48 mpg ... you're doing pretty good. That's about what I get on my DR with re-jetted BST ... and less off road. Big plus on better throttle response/control for off road. THAT ... I could use!
How much was the Carb itself? I know for a while they were around cheap but then the supply seemed to thin out, prices went up. Did the $200 include the Carb and the adapter? If so ... that is a very worth while mod, IMHO.
What about throttle cables and choke routing?
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:35 PM   #74958
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Shesaid has mentioned the ability to go a bit slower might be desired. I think she'd really like to be able to be off of the clutch at idle, for slow speed practice, which I don't know if that is possible with the DR. I can pick up a 14 tooth sprocket and go a little lower, but just how much change will there be? Anyone have any thoughts?

MV
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:40 PM   #74959
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by Hesaid View Post
Shesaid has mentioned the ability to go a bit slower might be desired. I think she'd really like to be able to be off of the clutch at idle, for slow speed practice, which I don't know if that is possible with the DR. I can pick up a 14 tooth sprocket and go a little lower, but just how much change will there be? Anyone have any thoughts?

MV
Try this over on Jesse's site:

http://www.kientech.com/DR650ConvNst...rocketkits.htm

14T front, 45T rear. Should make a substantial difference.
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:07 PM   #74960
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So I dropped the brake in oil last night and on the way too work everything seemed to be goodbye I was hauling the mail too work I was going too be late . Then on the way home I noticed that my shifter felt different stiff and loud. It feels and sound like its clunking into gear wether up or down on or off throttle and i can here it over the motor and my ear buds . Am I just paranoid or ?

The oil I used was factory 10/40 non synthetic .


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Old 03-19-2013, 08:12 PM   #74961
sandwash
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Bought the carb off ebay 100-125.machinist buddy made the adapter.Lived in Los Angeles at the time so Sudo? was right there and bought seals, needles and jets.Little bit of trail and error,got it all sorted out.Well worth the effort.Big plus for Rob and his efforts.Throttle cables and routing no problems
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:14 PM   #74962
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Originally Posted by Hesaid View Post
Shesaid has mentioned the ability to go a bit slower might be desired. I think she'd really like to be able to be off of the clutch at idle, for slow speed practice, which I don't know if that is possible with the DR. I can pick up a 14 tooth sprocket and go a little lower, but just how much change will there be? Anyone have any thoughts?

MV
Depends on rider experience. I like low gears, but right now only have 14/43. I don't ride much over 65mph. Off road it's nice. 14/45 would be amazing off road, but you probably won't want to ride very far (slab) to get there. If you want to know the difference, you can always do the math (i.e., what's the difference between 15/42 and 14/42 or 14/45 or whatever...realize those are just fractions and you can do the math and then the difference to find the percentages) between any of them. That percentage can then be applied to gearing, torque, RPM to see where you'll be.
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:23 PM   #74963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
How much was the Carb itself? I know for a while they were around cheap but then the supply seemed to thin out, prices went up. Did the $200 include the Carb and the adapter? If so ... that is a very worth while mod, IMHO.
What about throttle cables and choke routing?
$200 for Keihin FRC39 ?? wow i'll get 2 off them . Dunno maybe if u look hard or find someone desperete to sell. They usualy goes for around $350 to $400 used on ebay maybe even more.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keihin-Fcr-M...f975d8&vxp=mtr
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:33 PM   #74964
BergDonk
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Fcr

The FCR bolts on more or less. It depends on what FCR you get. AFAIK, they all plug straight into the DR650 intake manifold and need to adapt to the airbox boot, which can be a simple sleeve.

I adapted the stock throttle cables to mine, and as I have the Safari, not need to get some vacuum for the fuel tap.

I tried various setups with my BST40, including a DJ kit and my own needle that I spun down from an FCR one but could never git it right, close, but never 'right'.

I got a new FCR for $250 from memory on eBay, ex Polaris, and used MXRobs specs and leaned off from there. Fuel economy was about 5% worse than totally stock DR650s that travelled with me, albeit a bit slower, so maybe about the same.

I've since fitted an NCVT needle and adjustable Merge leak jet and its heaps better again, and more economical, I think. Not much testing of it yet as I'm getting over some knee surgery.

I have posted in my build thread, and the DRR link posted previously.

Terrific upgrade, more snap, smoother, and more low rpm rideability. No surges, no bogs, perfectly linear response when setup.

Its not complicated to fit, and not much more than plug and play.
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:38 PM   #74965
sandwash
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Yep took some time/doing and a lot of bidding,but I finally got one cheapish.Yeah it's kind of like the GSXR 40F0,at the start they where some what cheap and easy to get.Alot tougher now.Mine does not have that hot start red knob(don't need it,starts hot or cold),but it's a 39 FCR-MX off a 450 YFZ? quad.
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sandwash screwed with this post 03-19-2013 at 08:46 PM
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:43 PM   #74966
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Originally Posted by Hesaid View Post
Shesaid has mentioned the ability to go a bit slower might be desired. I think she'd really like to be able to be off of the clutch at idle, for slow speed practice, which I don't know if that is possible with the DR. I can pick up a 14 tooth sprocket and go a little lower, but just how much change will there be? Anyone have any thoughts?

MV
14t cs is great for tight trail/single track uphill etc... i had used 14/42 and 14/43 the last one was great for hill climbing or tight trails, the downfall (beside riding on black top) is i noticed unsual wear on my chain guide slider that i had to replaced it later on due to the fact 14/42 was running too close to the rubber using 525 chain. If i ever use the 14t cs i would make sure i got at least 43 or 44t rear sprocket. I am using 15/43 for now and seems to work fine all around.
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:46 PM   #74967
Hesaid
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Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
Depends on rider experience. I like low gears, but right now only have 14/43. I don't ride much over 65mph. Off road it's nice. 14/45 would be amazing off road, but you probably won't want to ride very far (slab) to get there. If you want to know the difference, you can always do the math (i.e., what's the difference between 15/42 and 14/42 or 14/45 or whatever...realize those are just fractions and you can do the math and then the difference to find the percentages) between any of them. That percentage can then be applied to gearing, torque, RPM to see where you'll be.
She's got pretty much no experience, and this would be just for learning. No real dirt is in the plans. As skills progress, highway ability would be desired, so the plan is to go back to stock gearing. I'm just not sure if the results would be worth it. Can you keep the chain on a 14/45, or will it need changing also?

MV
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:03 PM   #74968
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Originally Posted by Hesaid View Post
Shesaid has mentioned the ability to go a bit slower might be desired. I think she'd really like to be able to be off of the clutch at idle, for slow speed practice, which I don't know if that is possible with the DR. I can pick up a 14 tooth sprocket and go a little lower, but just how much change will there be? Anyone have any thoughts?

MV
14/42 definitely works better for slow going than the stock 15/42. The stock gearing is pretty darn tall. I can about idle through a parking lot 2up with 14/42.

One nice thing about the DR for dualsporting, compared to the DR-Z, is the wider gearspread. Another nice thing is that the DR's CS sprocket is super easy to swap in a matter of minutes with just simple tools.

If you can find an inexpensive hardened-steel 45T rear, I'd run 16/45 for pavement, and 14/45 for dirt. 15/45 will work for both, but I like to get the slab RPMs as low as practical. A 46T on the cheap seems easier to come by, but I didn't like running 15/46 coming back from the dirt on the slab...while 14/42 (approx 15/45) is somehow still tolerable to me. I never would have thought that 1 tooth difference on the rear would make much difference at all in how the bike feels. Going 1 tooth down in the front makes the DR pretty darn grunty. Going 1 tooth down in the front and 3 teeth up in the rear makes it a tree-climber.
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:13 PM   #74969
Hesaid
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Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
14/42 definitely works better for slow going than the stock 15/42. The stock gearing is pretty darn tall. I can about idle through a parking lot 2up with 14/42.

If you can find an inexpensive hardened-steel 45T rear, I'd run 16/45 for pavement, and 14/45 for dirt. 15/45 will work for both, but I like to get the slab RPMs as low as practical. A 46T on the cheap seems easier to come by, but I didn't like running 15/46 coming back from the dirt on the slab...while 14/42 (approx 15/45) is somehow still tolerable to me. I never would have thought that 1 tooth difference on the rear would make much difference at all in how the bike feels. Going 1 tooth down in the front makes the DR pretty darn grunty. Going 1 tooth down in the front and 3 teeth up in the rear makes it a tree-climber.
Ok, so I sat down and did some math. It seems like with 14/15/16 tooth sprockets as choices for up front, and 42/45/46 for the rear, I've got a range of final drive ratios from ~2.6 to ~3.3, compared to the 2.8 stock. Certainly no need to go higher, so the 16/42 is ruled out, leaving mostly options of around 2.8, 3, and 3.2. Another concern is that gearing down is going to make things torquier. Neither of us are much in the way of hooligans, and like the fact that the DR won't wheelie by throttle alone... Do we run the risk of changing that when we gear down? Since the countershaft sprocket is easy to change, maybe we ought to just start with a 14 tooth there and see how it goes.

MV
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:25 AM   #74970
greer
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Yep, I'd say go simple and just start with a 14. Sometimes with a brand new rider it helps to turn the idle up just a tad so the bike is less likely to stall on take-off.

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