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Old 03-21-2013, 10:10 AM   #75016
thump!
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Location: Northeast Tennessee
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Regarding the accelerator pump you said:
Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
It isn't necessary on any engine (just open the throttle slowly enough), and if it improves response, some might argue that it's therefore necessary.
Seems to me that's the point of a lot of this thread. I think most people would agree that a properly jetted CV carb performs reasonably well as long as the inherit lag in throttle response is acceptable. A slow(er) roll on makes that lag imperceptible and while maximum power output will ultimately be achieved to the rider it can feel a bit sluggish. Anyone who has ever ridden a modern 2-stroke understands what throttle response is all about. You best be holding on when you snap open the throttle open on something like a RM250. I don't think anyone expects that kind of instantaneous kick from a big 4-stroke single but it is definitely big time fun in the dirt. I think a lot of the crazy stuff people do to their DRs is to try and move them in that direction. Hence the cutout airboxes, drilled slides, and often grossly rich jetting we read so much about.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:22 AM   #75017
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
For single track and fire trailing, its awesome, but only with the AP dialed right back. You also ride it using lots of clutch, not the throttle. In slower going, its far easier to fine tune drive modulating the clutch than it is a throttle that is super responsive, even with the AP backed off.
Is it that the accelerator pump makes the engine too responsive when there are large/quick changes in throttle opening, and also when they are small/slow?

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:26 AM   #75018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
I think a lot of the crazy stuff people do to their DRs is to try and move them in that direction.
I'm sure you're absolutely right.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:30 AM   #75019
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
Oddometer: 6,128
Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
Speaking of touring, we continue our way south in Mexico. The DR(stock carb) is doing great as usual from sea level to 12,000 feet.

We ran into some more of this cobblestone stuff again, but this time we turned back after about a mile of pounding- we'd like to avoid breaking stuff down here.


For those who think it's not that rough, come down here and try it.
The riding is easy but the ride is extremely harsh.
................shu (from Oaxaca, Mexico)
I've ridden cobblestone like that ... usually what works is MORE SPEED!
Go fast and you float over most of it. This is the real test of your suspension. But certainly easier said than done.

In Death Valley there is this Volcanic rock section that is also tough on a heavy bike. On a dirt bike I can hammer through. On the DR had to slow down ... which makes it worse. You try to keep pace UP but tricky on this stuff. You have to avoid the BIG rocks that are everywhere on the track. Lots worse than it looks in pic.


Hope all is will in and around Oaxaca! One of my favorite areas! Hope you get to ride over the mountains out to Puerto Escondido/Puerto Angel. Lots of dirt roads in those
mountains.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:39 AM   #75020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
Regarding the accelerator pump you said:

Seems to me that's the point of a lot of this thread.
I think most people would agree that a properly jetted CV carb performs reasonably well as long as the inherit lag in throttle response is acceptable.
A slow(er) roll on makes that lag imperceptible and while maximum power output will ultimately be achieved to the rider it can feel a bit sluggish. Anyone who has ever ridden a modern 2-stroke understands what throttle response is all about. You best be holding on when you snap open the throttle open on something like a RM250. I don't think anyone expects that kind of instantaneous kick from a big 4-stroke single but it is definitely big time fun in the dirt. I think a lot of the crazy stuff people do to their DRs is to try and move them in that direction. Hence the cutout airboxes, drilled slides, and often grossly rich jetting we read so much about.

After some mods the lag in mine is non existent (or at least imperceptible), even when opening the throttle quickly. And it will pull without hesitation from a low close to 2000 rpm (if the tiny tach is to be believed). The stock low rpm shutters and shakes are pretty much gone. Patience and a little luck got it there, and mileage is still 50mpg.
I am sure it doesn't have the snap of the aftermarket carbs, but I am pretty happy with it.

Rumlover screwed with this post 03-21-2013 at 10:52 AM
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:20 AM   #75021
BenYork
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Location: Tahoe/ Humboldt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greaslife View Post
Rusty. I did top it off



Yay it did after I got home.

Is there any thing I can do to stop this ? I'm not against any mods.

If you have stock junk do not top off. If you must top off you can keep the stock tank and remove emissions stuff, plugging carp ports with Vacuum caps. Your gonna need to plug the port in the right side of the tank with something gas proof. Your cap is still going to have a tough time venting with gas in it.

The way I dealt with the issue is put the acerbis tank on and strip all the emissions stuff. Now the only thing that needs to vent is the cap, which it does thru a long hose. Still need to cap all vacuum ports etc. Its quite easy, and you have a bigger better tank.
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:26 PM   #75022
BergDonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Is it that the accelerator pump makes the engine too responsive when there are large/quick changes in throttle opening, and also when they are small/slow?

Regards,

Derek
Yes

Using the BK mod, I currently have the stroke set at <> 0.1 mm



The way I set it up is that the washers are the same thickness as the plasitc cover, and with the bolt length, the exposed thread is about equal to the stroke, or the gap between the end of the bolt and the lever. Here its at <> 1 mm, which was OK until I got the jetting sorted, then way too much. Readily adjustable from the outside with 2 x 8 mm open end spanners.
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:54 PM   #75023
BergDonk
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At the risk of getting further off the subject of DR650s, this was just posted over on UHE:
http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewto...p?f=20&t=17254

A CR500 chasing an FE650.

The guy that set up my FE650 on the dyno routinely did CR500s for short circuit racing over here, porting etc. He reckoned that my FE650 put out about 3-5 hp more than a good CR500.

Here is the plot as my FE650 evolved:


The Dyno Dynamics dynos show quite different numbers to the more normal Dynojets, and Carl said that applying his conversion factor mean that the 43 DD hp <> 63 DJ hp. No one who's ridden it will argue the point. His ported CR500s on this dyno showed 37-38 hp.

Whatever the numbers say is mostly irrelevant, its about the before and after and how it rides. A dyno is a means to an end, just a tool, and only as good as the tuner.

How about this for a curve? The flat shape of the torque. Its my 1400GTR, aka C14:


My 2 x 650 4t singles are chalk and cheese.

Sorry, back to DR650s.
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:12 PM   #75024
Mattawanderer
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Location: Lost in the woods
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Fork build

So I am about to attempt to install the "fork solution kit" (heavier springs and emulators) from procycle this weekend...any advice? Thanks!
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:12 PM   #75025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post

Sorry, back to DR650s.
Thankyou. Until your post I didn't know we were off the subject of DR650s.
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:31 PM   #75026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenYork View Post
If you have stock junk do not top off. If you must top off you can keep the stock tank and remove emissions stuff, plugging carp ports with Vacuum caps. Your gonna need to plug the port in the right side of the tank with something gas proof. Your cap is still going to have a tough time venting with gas in it.

The way I dealt with the issue is put the acerbis tank on and strip all the emissions stuff. Now the only thing that needs to vent is the cap, which it does thru a long hose. Still need to cap all vacuum ports etc. Its quite easy, and you have a bigger better tank.
Working the wife over on getting the tank. I called ims today and found out 09- current are all the same so on the hunt for a used tank going too try the local cycle salvage tomorrow .
I'm going to read the warranty paper work a ought the smog stuff. I'm sure if I pull it all off it will be void. But if I have a big problem I could just put it back on before it goes in at least that's what I'm thinking.


Welcome too my world ,sit down have a beer and enjoy the ride.
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:55 PM   #75027
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Seats ?

Has anyone had there seat reworked by fisher saddles ? I like the look of the 12inch wide seat. Just wondered about a real world opinion..
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:10 PM   #75028
Mambo Dave
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First mini-tour with my DR650 is accomplished. Before this, I was absolutely sure that the order I needed to go was:
1. New tank
2. Upgraded / stiff suspension
3. Upgraded saddle

But now...

1. UPGRADED SADDLE
2. New tank
3. Upgraded suspension



Not for any other reason than I'm now sure that Suzuki used the cheapest foam available, and after long hours in the saddle it settles down so far that it might as well not even be there (just like cheap foam in cheap bicycle seats, etc.).

I used to think the saddle was fine, but that was with 2400 miles on the bike. Maybe I used up the life of the cheap foam as I commuted to work (8000 miles on the bike now)?

So... while I really love Corbin for saddles (specifically, for their supportive foam), I'd also like to save money, and it's not like I'm going after a real leather cover for the bike even if I were to go Corbin. I'm contemplating a Seat Concepts kit... but I don't even think I need their feature of making it wider - I just need much higher quality foam.



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Old 03-21-2013, 07:11 PM   #75029
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WalMart ATV seat pad is $20 or so.
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:25 PM   #75030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattawanderer View Post
So I am about to attempt to install the "fork solution kit" (heavier springs and emulators) from procycle this weekend...any advice? Thanks!
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13193123&postcount=36300 Make sure you take a look at Distech's outstanding post link in my post.

I think PC has a good tutorial on their site, too.
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