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Old 03-31-2013, 06:20 PM   #75361
Mambo Dave
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Thanks for the clutch cable experiences, gents.

I had a Kawasaki Vulcan with a really tough-to-pull clutch that had its replacement cable (so at least the second one that was ever on the bike) at under 20k miles. I'd say it was a mix of corrosion and tension.

Obviously the DR650 doesn't have the tension that other bike did. Still, getting that bike home with a broken clutch cable was a lesson learned. (the write-up story is here: http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=21711 )
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:24 PM   #75362
Fred Garvin
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spare clutch cable

All good ideas that have been around for years. In addition to the spare, you might want to cover the exposed ends with a dust/waterproof cover to keep the ends and the cable ready for installation.
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:53 PM   #75363
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Question oil cooler hoses?

I reinstalled the oil cooler today after a repaint and had a bit of trouble figuring out which hose went where.
And which end attached to the engine, and which end attached to the cooler.

Was I looking at the manual wrong or do they have the lines reversed in the drawing?
I looked at my Clymer and Suzuki manuals and they both show it the same.
Seems to me that they show the short line on top instead of the long one.
It is at the end of the lubrication chapter.

I finally got it on right but installing the hoses and cooler shouldn't take an hour!
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:15 PM   #75364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I reinstalled the oil cooler today after a repaint and had a bit of trouble figuring out which hose went where.
And which end attached to the engine, and which end attached to the cooler.

Was I looking at the manual wrong or do they have the lines reversed in the drawing?
I looked at my Clymer and Suzuki manuals and they both show it the same.
Seems to me that they show the short line on top instead of the long one.
It is at the end of the lubrication chapter.

I finally got it on right but installing the hoses and cooler shouldn't take an hour!
After several failures doing things like this, i have learned to take a couple of pics before undoing things, the pics come in handy when going back together, you often think, oh that is no problem, it has to go back together just as easy as it came off, NOT.
Been there done that.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:44 PM   #75365
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:42 PM   #75366
MATT0404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
Welcome! This thread has all that info somewhere, but yes, TUNING your carb or swapping to a flat-slide pumper or EFI can reduce or eliminate hesitation and/or surging.

A common fix is to remove the snorkel and richen the needle and idle-mix screw. An adjustable needle and an extended screw make this very easy. www.Procycle.us sells kits for this whether you just remove the snorkel (Factory Pro) or go all out and open up the airbox (Procycle). The needles in these 2 kits have different tapers, BTW.
Thanks for the info! I'm going to get some more miles on the bike and see how it runs once I'm more familiar with it. As it stands now, I think the ProCycle kit is in my future.
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:17 PM   #75367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
I zip tie a spare cable right alongside the one in service. If it snaps, it's an easy and quick fix.


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don't forget, you tape the ends shut so dirt does not enter the cable.
i've read using black wire shrink wrap is the shiz.
after shrinking, hit the finished end with a lighter, melt a bit and pinch it shut.

i'd say that is an technique from RTW riders who need a spare.
modern cables are built very well and maybe fray at the end to warn you.
i can't remember in this whole DR thread much being said about the Suzuki cable failing. if you're worried change it every 20-30K. it's hard to predict when one will fail, if ever.
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eakins screwed with this post 03-31-2013 at 10:25 PM
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:45 PM   #75368
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Eek

Speaking of clutch cables:
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:16 PM   #75369
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandwash View Post
Speaking of clutch cables:
Alright, alright - I'll order a new clutch cable this week.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:32 AM   #75370
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This kind of failure is caused by the nubbin on the end of the cable not moving freely in the arm. This is a maintenance point that is often overlooked. Whenever you're washing the bike, changing the oil, etc. put a drop of lube on the cable nubbin. Do the lever end too.
Quote:
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Speaking of clutch cables:
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:44 AM   #75371
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
What do you all think is the average mileage (road miles) out of a DR650 clutch cable?

I've got a 2002, so between corrosion and miles (or use), I'm strongly thinking about ordering another to carry with the bike.
Put the new one on and carry the old one as a spare. That's what I did.

Couldn't believe how much easier the clutch pulled afterwards.

I do a lot of off road, so my mileage #'s won't apply.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:48 AM   #75372
sandwash
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I have about 28K on my 97 this happen around 23K, bought it with 13K.Good call on the drop of oil. Ya way smoother.
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Old 04-01-2013, 11:55 AM   #75373
Mambo Dave
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Oil, or Grease?

I'd think grease should be better.
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Old 04-01-2013, 12:31 PM   #75374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo Dave View Post
Oil, or Grease?

I'd think grease should be better.
Anything is better than nothing. I usually use chain lube. When I'm lubing the chain I also go over the bike and add a little spritz on any moving part - cable ends, footpeg pivots, side stand pivot, lever pivots, brake pedal, folding shifter end, etc.
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Old 04-01-2013, 03:19 PM   #75375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
anything is better than nothing. I usually use chain lube. When i'm lubing the chain i also go over the bike and add a little spritz on any moving part - cable ends, footpeg pivots, side stand pivot, lever pivots, brake pedal, folding shifter end, etc.
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