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Old 04-07-2013, 06:17 PM   #75541
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Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
I wonder why Jeff didn't build his own shock, instead of re-selling Cogent's.?
The DR market isn't that big. It made more sense to me to work with Cogent rather than competing against them.
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:18 PM   #75542
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So, what's the best off road shock for the DR, a rider @ 200 lbs that rides moderately aggressive off road?
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:20 PM   #75543
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Originally Posted by rch10007 View Post
Has anyone used silicon or sealant to seal the inside of the wheel so that if you did get a flat, it would slow the air leaking from the tube? Kinda like trying to make a tubeless setup but still using the tube?

Just wondering if anyone has went through the trouble of doing so...been thinking about sealing mine the next time I change tubes and tires, which are in my garage waiting.
Its always good to think and come up with new ideas.

But,if the tube gets a hole and leaks, the offending item most likely came through the tire. So there's a hole in said tire for air to escape.

Just my 2 cents
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:22 PM   #75544
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
This is not a bad idea, IMO. You achieve two things:
1. sealing the wheel may not make it air tight ... but will most definitely slow air loss if you get a puncture. With tubes you can have INSTANT AIR LOSS. Going 70 mph, mid corner and having instant air loss on your front tire is not a good thing. The sealing could mitigate air loss ... enough to give you warning and get off the road.

2. A minor puncture could be just a "slow leak" instead of a flat, and could give you time to pick your repair spot ... or just air it up once in a while and continue.
So you cant have INSTANT AIR LOSS with tubeless?
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:24 PM   #75545
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Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Another broken top roller... on my '96.



It didn't tear a huge chunk out, fortunately. Mostly just the nut itself.
Chain was too tight. Those rollers dont pull them selves out of the frame.
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:31 PM   #75546
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Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
Chain was too tight. Those rollers dont pull them selves out of the frame.
Possible, but it wasn't too tight on my watch. I never run chains too tight.

Actually this came out when I finally got around to taking the roller off. I turned the bolt, and it's clear that the attachment was still strong enough so that I had to use as much pressure on the wrench as it would normally take to loosen the bolt, but that pulled the roller and mount off. So it could have happened at any time in the past.

The bike is a '96 which I bought a few years ago.
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:35 PM   #75547
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Originally Posted by DockingPilot View Post
Guys like you are a riot ! And easy to wind up.
Im sitting right now with Bruce (2 time USA ISDE rider and 2 time ECEA Grand Champion, owns a 990, SE and the 08 690) in his living room. I showed him your concern for his bike and he laughed of course "What's he give a rats ass about my bike for, it's not like you talking about his mother"

But hey, as funny as it is, it's also getting juvenile, so to get off the subject and back to the DR, and so you can sleep tonight, I'll proclaim, my friend who lives half way around the world from Albie, Bruce Kenny's 690 is the most dead nuts reliable bike he has ever ridden or I ever had the honor to ridden with.

No harm or ill intent was meant Albie me boy.
You live in a cool country though, been there once, Sydney, "The rock", Kings Canyon, and the Whitsunday Islands on the GBR. Unfortunately not on a bike though.
Very cool
You somehow managed to make up a whole novel of things from my post. You've got skillz ! Stay frosty my friend.
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:38 PM   #75548
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Im speaking for myself.Sandwash is speaking for "90%"
You do have to spend $700,as stated unless your buying used stuff.
You say"some people just can't leave things alone" that is part of the problem
I say start with a $18 engine sprocket and a tuned carb and keep your MPG and better altitude compensation.
I agree,just a 1 tooth smaller countershaft sprocket gives a nice boost in getting going.
There are SO many bikes made for going fast that run great right out of the box,hopping up a DR is an interesting way to spend your time but hardly cost effective.

Then the flexy heavy frame and el cheapo forks and shock will have to be fixed if you do get more power out of the the thing,then it gets really pricey.
Ive flailed my DR on trails my KTM's barely notice,the poor DR is dragging bottom and tank slapping trying to break in half.
Its an econo bike pure and simple and I like it that way,for long distance dirt road traveling its a great bike and I almost never have to work on it.
Ive modded lots of stuff on my DR,just not the engine.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:36 PM   #75549
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Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
So, what's the best off road shock for the DR, a rider @ 200 lbs that rides moderately aggressive off road?
A well set up Ohlins.
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:41 PM   #75550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
So, what's the best off road shock for the DR, a rider @ 200 lbs that rides moderately aggressive off road?
Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
A well set up Ohlins.
Works great for me, haven't tried better, but not tried the popular Cogent or Ricor, or Racetech upgrades either. Ohlins just work, when setup.
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:19 PM   #75551
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Cool2 engine on ebay

Anyone looking for a complete engine?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-DR650-D...e836e2&vxp=mtr

Excellent price I think.

If shipping to Alaska wasn't so expensive I would already have bought it!

But, now I will give you a chance
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:04 AM   #75552
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Lowering

I did the 17inch wheels several years back, and my wife (5'7") rode it through the Snowy Mountains when we holidayed there. I made suspension linkages (the aluminium 'dogbones' which connect the shock pivot to the swingarm) which are a half inch longer than stock. This lowers the rear wheel about inch and three quarters, and she has no trouble getting her feet down either side. There's a company over there that makes threaded, adjustable linkages. It's a two bolt solution, and you can always take it off if you don't like it. Cheers.

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Finally finished my engine rebuild! I hope to get it in the bike tomorrow and see if she runs. I will be pretty excited to have it back in service after a year and a half, so hopefully all goes well.



The DR will see occasional use by me on the trails, but that won't be it's main use. It will mostly be used as a first bike for my girlfriend who's wanted a motorcycle for a couple years now. She's already taken the MSF course and got her endorsement. The DR makes a great bike to learn on so I feel it will do well in this role, with one exception - seat height. If I'm not mistaken, the DR has a stock seat height of 34.1". My girlfriend is 5'4" with a 30" inseam. I've got the bike on 17" supermoto wheels, which effectively lowered the front end by 2". I'm going to try lowering the rear by moving the rear shock bolt to the other hole as I've read can be done. This should have the added benefit of fixing the steering geometry. Switching to the 17" wheels without lowering the rear at all changed the rake/trail enough to cause a bit of a wobble at 80+, so hopefully that disappears.

The question I have is this: After I lower the rear as mentioned above, my math tells me that the bike will still be 2" too tall for her. What are your recommendations for dropping an extra 2" in seat height without destroying the steering geometry or causing the tires to hit the fenders when the suspension compresses? Anything I do has to be reversible and ideally wouldn't be too expensive. I will of course have her give it a try after I lower the rear to see if that is actually enough, but I suspect it won't be.

I appreciate the advice [if anyone actually bothered to read this long-winded post] & I have to say, this thread is great. I've learned a ton from reading this stuff.
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:57 AM   #75553
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Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
Possible, but it wasn't too tight on my watch. I never run chains too tight.

Actually this came out when I finally got around to taking the roller off. I turned the bolt, and it's clear that the attachment was still strong enough so that I had to use as much pressure on the wrench as it would normally take to loosen the bolt, but that pulled the roller and mount off. So it could have happened at any time in the past.

The bike is a '96 which I bought a few years ago.
Theres a trick you can do,take the shock off and set the chain a little snug,then lower the back end of the bike down and watch where the chain goes up by the upper roller.
It will try to pull that roller out of the frame.
If the chain isnt tight it wont try to pull that roller out of the frame.

The notches in the snail cam chain adjusters are a big adjustment jump between notches so guys try to err on the side of tightness thinking its better then looseness.

So yeah somebody most likely ran it too tight before you got it.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:00 AM   #75554
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Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Works great for me, haven't tried better, but not tried the popular Cogent or Ricor, or Racetech upgrades either. Ohlins just work, when setup.
Ohlin's are nice if you dont mind spending a chunk of change,the Race-Tech gold valve and spring on my DR shock work fine.. after two revalves by the local suspension wizard,stock Race-Tech valving felt like a Supercross shock settup.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:11 AM   #75555
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Upper chain roller

Guys I think most of you are forgetting something about tearing out the upper chain roller. Whether the chain is adjusted too tight or not when you are under strong acceleration and the rear shock is under heavy compression the chain is going to push against the upper roller with a lot of force.

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