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Old 04-09-2013, 10:06 AM   #75601
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
what I am saying is 2 hours a day on the interstate on a DR 650 sucks and I have had enough.... besides I mainly sold it to buy my daughter a car. geez guys thanks. she is going through some medical issues so i figured I would help.
That's a lot of commute time. I get where you're at. I hope you find something ... either car or bike .. that works for you. The DR is no all weather bike ... but on a long commute hardly any bike is ideal in nasty weather.

Hope your daughter's health improves.
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:12 AM   #75602
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
loosen all the fork clamp bolts and also the 4 handlebar clamps.
Yes, exactly the thing to do ... but that will only allow the fork tubes to align.
You can still have "tweaked" handlebars. Remember, they are rubber mounted and can get tweaked in a fall and appear off center.

How to fix?
Easy, put bars against stop ... and PUSH. Check them, adjust as needed, ride to confirm alignment.
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:48 AM   #75603
Moore
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I dumped my DRZ once and the same thing happened when the barkbuster took the brunt of the impact. Loosened the fork clamps and everything went right back where it should. (had the bike supported on an ATV jack of course)
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:55 AM   #75604
GRinCR
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Question Seating Valves

Hi all

I have one of the old school models and have fount the book says DO NOT use lapping compound when seating the valves. The locals here find this strange and insist they seat them with lapping compound.

Can anyone shed light on this? Will it f*ck the whole deal if lapping compund is used?

Cheers
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:33 PM   #75605
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acesandeights View Post
Long story short, I dropped the bike on the right side. Impact was almost all on the right Bark Buster and broke the passenger peg. I got on to ride to work today and noticed the handlebars/wheel was off. The front wheel is now pointing left relative to the handlebars (handlebars straight, wheel left). The handlebars don't appear to be bent, although that's what took the impact, the right Bark Buster/bar end.

So, I'm late for work now, but want to know, should I loosen the lower fork clamps and cycle the suspension to see if things straighten up, loosen the top, or both at separate times? Or, am I not thinking this through enough. I'll look for input after work tonight, thanks.
I don't loosen anything: just roll the front tire up next to a post-tree-wall and push the bars back straight.
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:36 PM   #75606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I don't loosen anything: just roll the front tire up next to a post-tree-wall and push the bars back straight.
Hey, this ain't the KLR forum!!
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:36 PM   #75607
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I don't loosen anything: just roll the front tire up next to a post-tree-wall and push the bars back straight.
Ahhh, so I'm not the only one that does that.
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:47 PM   #75608
RichBeBe
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Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Ahhh, so I'm not the only one that does that.
Street signs, rocks, etc.
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:35 PM   #75609
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
Hey, this ain't the KLR forum!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:59 PM   #75610
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRinCR View Post
Hi all

I have one of the old school models and have fount the book says DO NOT use lapping compound when seating the valves. The locals here find this strange and insist they seat them with lapping compound.

Can anyone shed light on this? Will it f*ck the whole deal if lapping compund is used?

Cheers
This is common advice on new MXers with titanium valves. Can't see how it would apply to a 1990 DR650. Is that really what it says in the factory manual?

A good valve job with modern equipment will make for a great seal without any lapping.
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:02 PM   #75611
George 99
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For sale in Kingman, AZ

Not mine, just saw this on the street yesterdy, a 93 with 8,000+ miles, looks stone stock and clean. Price sez $2100. Anyone interested send me a PM and I'll get the phone # for ya. No personal interest.
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:18 PM   #75612
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
After putting something under the bike to make sure it doesn't collapse, of course.
It can be done by loosening only one side of the triple clamp. Same for the handle bar clamps. only need to loosen one of the 2 clamps.
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:22 PM   #75613
ArgoBloke
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebird120 View Post
From DR650
Awesome bike....looks great!!!
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:59 PM   #75614
wayno
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Wings on skid plate to close to oil filter housing and to close on oppisite side also...has this been addressed anywher in this forum.
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:44 PM   #75615
GRinCR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Is that really what it says in the factory manual?

A good valve job with modern equipment will make for a great seal without any lapping.
Thank you ProCycle.

Yes, at least my manual does. It is not "RS" specific, but for the '90-91 DR650. I confirmed with another ADVfreak with the same bike and his manual says the same. States something about leaving a soft surface and the valves will seat themselves in the first few minutes of the engine running. Strange thing is I called a dealership stateside and their book for a '90/'91 makes no mention of not using lapping compound. Dealership here says they always use lapping compound and likely never look at the book either.

Modern equipment is going to tough to find here in Costa Rica. So my dilema is to lap or not to lap ? Brand spanking new valves are OEM and I have no clue what they are made of. Also, what happens if you do lap where no lapping is required?

Your two cents and everyone's as well is always appreciated.

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