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Old 04-09-2013, 01:59 PM   #75601
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRinCR View Post
Hi all

I have one of the old school models and have fount the book says DO NOT use lapping compound when seating the valves. The locals here find this strange and insist they seat them with lapping compound.

Can anyone shed light on this? Will it f*ck the whole deal if lapping compund is used?

Cheers
This is common advice on new MXers with titanium valves. Can't see how it would apply to a 1990 DR650. Is that really what it says in the factory manual?

A good valve job with modern equipment will make for a great seal without any lapping.
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:02 PM   #75602
George 99
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For sale in Kingman, AZ

Not mine, just saw this on the street yesterdy, a 93 with 8,000+ miles, looks stone stock and clean. Price sez $2100. Anyone interested send me a PM and I'll get the phone # for ya. No personal interest.
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:18 PM   #75603
Rusty Rocket
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Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
After putting something under the bike to make sure it doesn't collapse, of course.
It can be done by loosening only one side of the triple clamp. Same for the handle bar clamps. only need to loosen one of the 2 clamps.
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:22 PM   #75604
ArgoBloke
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From DR650
Awesome bike....looks great!!!
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:59 PM   #75605
wayno
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Wings on skid plate to close to oil filter housing and to close on oppisite side also...has this been addressed anywher in this forum.
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:44 PM   #75606
GRinCR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
Is that really what it says in the factory manual?

A good valve job with modern equipment will make for a great seal without any lapping.
Thank you ProCycle.

Yes, at least my manual does. It is not "RS" specific, but for the '90-91 DR650. I confirmed with another ADVfreak with the same bike and his manual says the same. States something about leaving a soft surface and the valves will seat themselves in the first few minutes of the engine running. Strange thing is I called a dealership stateside and their book for a '90/'91 makes no mention of not using lapping compound. Dealership here says they always use lapping compound and likely never look at the book either.

Modern equipment is going to tough to find here in Costa Rica. So my dilema is to lap or not to lap ? Brand spanking new valves are OEM and I have no clue what they are made of. Also, what happens if you do lap where no lapping is required?

Your two cents and everyone's as well is always appreciated.

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Old 04-09-2013, 03:54 PM   #75607
skysailor
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So, my poor DR has sat in the garage all winter. It'll start, then die after about three seconds. Used fuel stabilizer when I put it to bed. Ideas?
Lyle
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:04 PM   #75608
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayno View Post
Wings on skid plate to close to oil filter housing and to close on oppisite side also...has this been addressed anywher in this forum.
I just bent my skid plate out a bit. Been that way for over 3 years now.
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:37 PM   #75609
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRinCR View Post
Modern equipment is going to tough to find here in Costa Rica. So my dilema is to lap or not to lap ? Brand spanking new valves are OEM and I have no clue what they are made of. Also, what happens if you do lap where no lapping is required?
I doubt you could do any harm by lapping the valves. If you went crazy with the lapping compound and a drill motor you could possibly wear through the hardened coating on the valve faces. Any sensible amount of careful lapping won't hurt in any way.

I wonder if the manual actually says (or means) not to grind the valves? Since the late 60s most Japanese motorcycle valves are made in such a way that if you re-grind valve face of a used valve you will remove the hardened coating and the valve will wear out in short order.
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:03 PM   #75610
Mongle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by procycle View Post
I doubt you could do any harm by lapping the valves. If you went crazy with the lapping compound and a drill motor you could possibly wear through the hardened coating on the valve faces. Any sensible amount of careful lapping won't hurt in any way.

I wonder if the manual actually says (or means) not to grind the valves? Since the late 60s most Japanese motorcycle valves are made in such a way that if you re-grind valve face of a used valve you will remove the hardened coating and the valve will wear out in short order.
We lap every valve in after a valve job just to confirm valve seat location and a good finish from the cutters. I doubt you could lap enough by HAND to move any material. We use mostly use a "4A" compound which is fine. We never use anything courser then a "B" which is considered medium/fine.

I have ground motorcycle valves as well with no problems. What you have to watch for is if the black hard nitriding is on the face of the valve. If so it was hardened AFTER being ground. But, if the face of the valve is not black it means the valve was hardened BEFORE the face was ground. If it is not black to begin with I go ahead and grind it. We actually grind every valve (even new) for automotive stuff. Mass produced valves are often out of round more then you would think.

I've seen the do not lap on motorcycles an foreign cars for the exact reason you stated- for seat in purposes. I can only guess why. 14 years building motors- every valve lapped- and not one leaker; so I'm going with what has worked for me.

I'm with ProCycle- Lap them boys in and start burning gas!
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:10 PM   #75611
Mongle
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Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post

Peng, this one? I don't know how you got it off. I think Suzuki used NASA RED Loctite on mine.
I can't believe someone actually was able to get that thing off. I started with a screwdriver- moved to the hand impact, moved up to the air impact, on up to the torch and air impact. At that point I decided it was there for good and I never need worry about it coming loose in an atomic blast. Decided I really didn't want it off anyway...
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:20 PM   #75612
procycle
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Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I can't believe someone actually was able to get that thing off. I started with a screwdriver- moved to the hand impact, moved up to the air impact, on up to the torch and air impact. At that point I decided it was there for good and I never need worry about it coming loose in an atomic blast. Decided I really didn't want it off anyway...
Yeah, no reason to remove it anyway.
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www.procycle.us - Everything for your DR650 and lots of other great stuff!
DR900 Big Bore Stroker buildup
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:02 PM   #75613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George 99 View Post
Not mine, just saw this on the street yesterdy, a 93 with 8,000+ miles, looks stone stock and clean. Price sez $2100. Anyone interested send me a PM and I'll get the phone # for ya. No personal interest.
Too expensive for the old model, evryone wants the '96 on DR nwer model with more aftermarket parts, I got a '96 with 10,000miles for $1900 gregg
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:26 PM   #75614
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongle View Post
I can't believe someone actually was able to get that thing off. I started with a screwdriver- moved to the hand impact, moved up to the air impact, on up to the torch and air impact. At that point I decided it was there for good and I never need worry about it coming loose in an atomic blast. Decided I really didn't want it off anyway...
No reason to ever remove it. Its easy to simply loosen one of the cable adjuster nuts and remove throttle cable from the holder. Re-adjusting is easy.
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:31 PM   #75615
deathu
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Hi,

I'm preparing to re-assemble the top end of my 1998 DR motor. It's the the first time I'm doing this and I need to clarify a couple of things:
1. the service manual states that you need to coat the "new gaskets" with oil when installing them. It is however not clear if it is referring only to the 4 crush gaskets of the main bolts holding the cylinder + cylinder head, or to ALL gaskets, i.e. including the metal cylinder/cylinder head gaskets. Do these need to be coated with engine oil as well? This seems kind of odd to me...

2. When re-installing the valves, the service manual calls for Suzuki Moly Paste to be applied uniformly on the valve stems. What I do currently have is a molybdenum disulphide and graphite grease, will this work? I tried searching the 'net but found no general consensus on this, some people even recommend engine oil. I'm trying to understand how things are supposed to work here, I do not want to destroy the valves or the guides. If I understand correctly whatever I use here will need to hold for an indefinite amount of time AND withstand high temperatures, as the valve stems are not lubricated with engine oil during operation, right? The oil will not get there because of the valve stem seals, so they need to work only with what I put there during the assembly, am I right? What would you guys use, considering the valves as well as guides are not new?
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